dieseldonato
Veteran Member
Scania uses the same stuff, works great. Wish I knew who made it for them, it's stupid expensive. I suspected three bond, or elring but don't have any proof. Would be nice to know though.
What did you do to your MKIV today?
- Thread starter TDIGAZ
- Start date
If you're talking about this stuff: D-174-003-M2, I found a search result showing it as an alternate part number for an Elring Klinger product.
www.germanautosupply.com
ELRING KLINGER D 174 003 M2 / D174003M2 | German Auto Supply
ELRING KLINGER Sealing Compound D 174 003 M2 / D174003M2
Nuje
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2005
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- Island near Vancouver
- TDI
- 2002 Golf 6MT; 2015 Sportwagen 6MT; 2016 A3 e-tron 6DSG
That's the stuff that I got in the past for doing oil pan replacement. Liked it a lot better than what VW's OE product is now (black stuff).
Went through the "big" city today so I stopped at Buck's Auto and snagged some spare 109 and 53 relays and a relay socket, an armrest lid with unbroken hinges, and a set of Passat telescoping sun visors (score!). For $20, not bad at all. Almost took a set of Golf vents too but decided against it for now.
Helped #2 son with his brakes last night (01 sedan) at 4:00 pm yesterday. His rear calipers were iffy at best, so he bought a new set. Replacement was going fairly normal, dealing with 23+ years of upstate NY rust. But on the second side (driver's), the brake line snapped right near the banjo fitting.
Luckily, FLAPS had a replacement in stock a few minutes' drive away. No 11mm flare nut wrench, though. Had to go all the way across Albany to pick one up at O'Reillys. Starting to get dark.
Original line fitting actutally started unscrewing pretty easily, but the line did end up twisting and snapping (not a problem or a surprise). And of course all the white plastic clips along the axle shattered, so we used a zip tie for now.
We start bleeding the brakes (2-man method), and I notice the passenger side is leaking at the banjo fitting. Snugged it down a little more, but nope, still leaking. Removed it, and there was a gouge on the underside. Must've happened when I had to pry the old lower crush washer off the old banjo bolt to replace it. Spent 20-30 minutes filing it down and testing to see if it would hold, and finally it did.
Topped off reservoir and finished bleeding. Brakes barely working at all. Rebled both sides. Pedal was (reportedly) feeling good this time, but after starting the motor up, brakes are still soft. At this point it's 9:00, so we just park it. Going to try bleeding it again this afternoon. I'll pull out the laptop and do the Vag Com bleed, in case air made its way up into the ABS pump while we were running around getting parts and tools.
Luckily, FLAPS had a replacement in stock a few minutes' drive away. No 11mm flare nut wrench, though. Had to go all the way across Albany to pick one up at O'Reillys. Starting to get dark.
Original line fitting actutally started unscrewing pretty easily, but the line did end up twisting and snapping (not a problem or a surprise). And of course all the white plastic clips along the axle shattered, so we used a zip tie for now.
We start bleeding the brakes (2-man method), and I notice the passenger side is leaking at the banjo fitting. Snugged it down a little more, but nope, still leaking. Removed it, and there was a gouge on the underside. Must've happened when I had to pry the old lower crush washer off the old banjo bolt to replace it. Spent 20-30 minutes filing it down and testing to see if it would hold, and finally it did.
Topped off reservoir and finished bleeding. Brakes barely working at all. Rebled both sides. Pedal was (reportedly) feeling good this time, but after starting the motor up, brakes are still soft. At this point it's 9:00, so we just park it. Going to try bleeding it again this afternoon. I'll pull out the laptop and do the Vag Com bleed, in case air made its way up into the ABS pump while we were running around getting parts and tools.
PakProtector
Top Post Dawg
For the leaking banjo, tighten it. hit the bolt with a hammer, tighten again. repeat. Same sort of thing to do so as to make sure the injector washers seal up only the injectors get a slightly more gentle approach... 
If I have to open the system, block the pedal down, then open. Keep the pedal down...it does not leak out when rigged thusly...
Douglas
If I have to open the system, block the pedal down, then open. Keep the pedal down...it does not leak out when rigged thusly...
Douglas
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
I re-use almost every crush washer I've come across with this method. Just take some sandpaper to get the heavy marks down, then finish with some emery cloth or fine grit. I'll change them out once they look structurally too thin or susceptible to cracking
jmodge
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- TDI
- More than I need, less than I want
Those are captured washers on those lines IIRC
burpod
teh stallionz!!1
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2004
- Location
- cape cod, ma
- TDI
- 82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
they are. i would like to see about cutting them out in favor of a size that is replaceable next time i need to do one
jmodge
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- TDI
- More than I need, less than I want
It seems they sold the washers at NAPA along with the compatible lines. Don’t take that as gospel though, it’s been a number of years
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
Yeah, I've removed those and just used standard crush washers. Just make sure they're approx same size. Doesn't matter if the ID is a bit bigger
jmodge
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
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I know I did it somewhere along the line on one of the cars. I think I might have screwed up a washer before realizing it was captured. At that point there was no choice but to make something work.
If they are supposed to be captured washers, and crush washers, that doesn't make a lot of sense. You certainly can reuse a crush washer, but not multiple times, and you should clean it up as Krash mentioned. I've even done the old heat with a MAPP gas torch trick with used ones.
But another reason they are stupid, is that the upper caliper pin bolt is in the way if you try to screw in the banjo bolt with the fitting at the head already. Ask me how I know. With regular washers, you just drop the bottom one on the caliper, set the banjo fitting down, then install the bolt with the other washer on it. I fought with the captured banjo bolt for ten minutes before I decided to pry off the washer to remove it from the fitting, and it was in in seconds.
Welp, we got back to the car yesterday afternoon. The banjo fitting that I had to file down had wept some brake fluid, so it wasn't as sealed as I'd thought. Took a finer file and had at it for a good while, and finally there was no nick or scratch that made it to the circumference of the hole. Noticed also that the two crush washers I had used before (new ones) both had an identical set of radial scratches in them. Found an old one that was all smooth and used that instead. Bled that caliper and got some air out of it, and the pedal was nice and hard.
Started it up, and with the booster working, the brakes felt tons better. Put the wheels back on, and my son took it for a test drive. All seems good now. I don't feel fully confident in that fitting I had to file down, but then again on Tuesday, the soft pedal was immediate. I'm thinking it's either leaking and not holding pressure, or it's a tight connection. He wants to drive it to Boston (3 hours away) Friday with his buddy, so I told him just drive it around town a bit last night and today, and if the pedal feels the same, he's good. If we do end up needing to replace that line, it's not the end of the world.
But another reason they are stupid, is that the upper caliper pin bolt is in the way if you try to screw in the banjo bolt with the fitting at the head already. Ask me how I know. With regular washers, you just drop the bottom one on the caliper, set the banjo fitting down, then install the bolt with the other washer on it. I fought with the captured banjo bolt for ten minutes before I decided to pry off the washer to remove it from the fitting, and it was in in seconds.
Welp, we got back to the car yesterday afternoon. The banjo fitting that I had to file down had wept some brake fluid, so it wasn't as sealed as I'd thought. Took a finer file and had at it for a good while, and finally there was no nick or scratch that made it to the circumference of the hole. Noticed also that the two crush washers I had used before (new ones) both had an identical set of radial scratches in them. Found an old one that was all smooth and used that instead. Bled that caliper and got some air out of it, and the pedal was nice and hard.
Started it up, and with the booster working, the brakes felt tons better. Put the wheels back on, and my son took it for a test drive. All seems good now. I don't feel fully confident in that fitting I had to file down, but then again on Tuesday, the soft pedal was immediate. I'm thinking it's either leaking and not holding pressure, or it's a tight connection. He wants to drive it to Boston (3 hours away) Friday with his buddy, so I told him just drive it around town a bit last night and today, and if the pedal feels the same, he's good. If we do end up needing to replace that line, it's not the end of the world.
jmodge
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- More than I need, less than I want
Yeah, same thing I thought. Never ran into a captured washer on a brake line prior to that
My friend thinks I'm nuts for all this work, and I think the girlfriend is getting concerned. I lost track of parts cost but it's over 3grand, how much labor would it be to replace the following; lower control arm, front struts, complete brakes and rotors, dust shield, tie rods and ball joints, rebuild both sides of both CV shaft, new input and output seal on tranny, shifter I put seal and fluid change, new southbend clutch, rear main seal, oil pump chain and tensioner, new Turbo and oil lines, timing belt, alternator, and a box full of miscellaneous parts like wiper arm bushings, new rad. I will need to redo drivers door wiring as window stopped going up and down.
The Cream Dolphin
Veteran Member
I think this was a timing belt at the start? If you give a mouse a cookie... I love it, especially the painted engine. Not sure on the cost of all that labour, but you will certainly have something certain folks will envy.
Maybe. I got boots for the axle shafts, the driver side outer is seized up. Seriously, can't even move it... How did it not make a sound all this time. Looks like aftermarket anyways, where to get a good axle?
Why not just replace the outer joint on that side? Easier than just a boot since you don't need to clean up the original. Plus no Chaxle!
That's the thing, I can get the outter for 200 but how much for a whole shaft? Seems noone carries it
jmodge
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- TDI
- More than I need, less than I want
Raxles are roughly $550 a pair plus core, for comparison
Dragged this carcass home yesterday and pulled the pump. Going to try it on my car and see if it makes a difference, as I know this pump is good.
Turns out the car is in slightly worse shape than I thought, this is it's good side. Oil pan has a big crack so I think it's been oil starved for the short time he had it running when he went to pick it up from the towing yard. Rad is falling out since the lock carrier is destroyed, intercooler is gone... Oh well it's going to be a rebuild anyway.
Does anyone else anneal their copper crush washers? Put the washer on the ground and hit it with the propane torch for a couple seconds just until it changes color, flip it over and do the same torching to the other side, softens it up so it will squish again.
burpod
teh stallionz!!1
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2004
- Location
- cape cod, ma
- TDI
- 82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
i save all my copper washers (especially injector ones, which are useful for other things), except for the very "thin" ones, if they appear to be in decent shape, do a batch of them on a long screwdriver
In your video, your passenger axle looks like the original hollow shaft to me.
dieseldonato
Veteran Member
I don't reuse crush washer unless I have to, which is extremely rare. Have a whole drawer in my tool box full of crush washers, bajo fittings, misc gaskets. It's all left overs out of rebuild kits, gasket set etc. Just saved all everything over the years and have a decent stock pile. Only coppers I won't reused is for injectors. Every injector has a protrusion spec, generally spreaking whatever thickness washer came out needs to go back in. Once it's crushed it's done. Injector will sit in deeper, possibly causing the tip to stick out too far of the head. Possibly nit picking, but there is a direct correlation to protrusion and where the injector sprays fuel into the piston bowl. Which affect fuel/air mixing properly in the cylinder.
No, most threads crush them very well. You're right though, I'm not crazy about injector washers I think they should be tightened, hit with a hammer and retightened
P2B
Top Post Dawg
Injectors are supposed to leak compression - they must be, since that's what happens if you follow the Bentley installation procedure
