WolfgangVW
Veteran Member
Hey just was wondering how hard or big of a job it is to replace the valve cover gasket on an ALH Jetta. Thanks in advance!!
Valve Cover Gasket
- Thread starter WolfgangVW
- Start date
STDOUBT
Veteran Member
Generally horrible so I have heard. A guy's time is worth more than that. People have said just get a new one.
Spendy though.
What I have done is removed the baffle and set the cover gasket-down in a shallow pan of degreaser.
Let it sit a few hours (think I even did overnight once), clean off the degreaser with water, dry nicely, and that gasket seems to re-gain some spring-y-ness. I doubt it's my imagination too because of all the oil leaks my engine has, the VC is not one of them lol.
At some point it might stop working, but hey it's easy and cheap to try.
The degreaser I use (full strength):
Spendy though.
What I have done is removed the baffle and set the cover gasket-down in a shallow pan of degreaser.
Let it sit a few hours (think I even did overnight once), clean off the degreaser with water, dry nicely, and that gasket seems to re-gain some spring-y-ness. I doubt it's my imagination too because of all the oil leaks my engine has, the VC is not one of them lol.
At some point it might stop working, but hey it's easy and cheap to try.
The degreaser I use (full strength):
I'm going to try this with my old (OE) valve cover.
I bought the Uroparts replacement and installed a month or two ago. It's fine for now, but I am not expecting it to last like the original.
If the seals don't recover, I'll just take my time and see if I can't fully remove the old one and try a replacement seal. Though that may be only as good as the Uroparts cover in the end...
I bought the Uroparts replacement and installed a month or two ago. It's fine for now, but I am not expecting it to last like the original.
If the seals don't recover, I'll just take my time and see if I can't fully remove the old one and try a replacement seal. Though that may be only as good as the Uroparts cover in the end...
Ive been running one for 40k and 2 1/2 years now that I’ve replaced. Not really that bad, 10-15? Minutes with a good dremel. I used a cutting bit to get the hard stuff out and the wire wheel to clean it up. Attached new gasket to VC with contact cement and a thin layer of regular grease between the gasket and the head.
so cost me maybe a hour total time with the r&r and a 7$ gasket
so cost me maybe a hour total time with the r&r and a 7$ gasket
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
Having been down the road on an aftermarket, replaceable seal valve cover, and trying to repair my old OEM one, I went full circle and bought OEM new valve cover.
Aftermarket didn't last 6 months, OEM repair failed too. New one hasn't leaked a drop
Aftermarket didn't last 6 months, OEM repair failed too. New one hasn't leaked a drop
WolfgangVW
Veteran Member
Great thanks for the replies ! What was the cost of the OEM new valve cover ??
Genesis
Top Post Dawg
I have an aftermarket on mine, ~3 years now, no leaks. Works fine.
If you have to ask, you can't afford it....
joe00golf
Well-known member
Looks like after getting some work done at a shop I also have a leaking valve cover right by the vacuum pump. I also came here looking to see how hard a job this is. But, after looking through some posts on here, am I correct in seeing that the valve cover gasket is glued to the valve cover? That's kind of a pain. Are there recommendations for what brand to go with or avoid in getting a new valve cover? Looks like FCP Euro has one in stock and fortunately they are pretty close by and I need to pick up stuff for an oil change anyways. FCP Euro Vaico Valve Cover Gasket But I'll spend more money if there's a better option.
joe00golf
Well-known member
After reading some more forum posts and watching a video on valve cover replacement I think my issue might be whoever removed the valve cover did not put dabs of rtv at the typical locations, which looks to be where its leaking from, so I'm gonna remove the cover tomorrow and check. Hopefully just needs some RTV to stop the leak.
Gothmolly
Veteran Member
I figure a leaky valve cover is just time's way of adding a rust-proof coating to everything else under the hood.
Just add oil once in a while.
Just add oil once in a while.
TedDively
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2019
- Location
- San Francisco, California
- TDI
- 2005 Passat BHW 5.5 GLS TDI, 2015 Passat SEL CVCA
Not sure where else to post this, so pardon me if I'm in the wrong spot.
I have a 2005 BHW Passat with 163k miles on it. The valve cover definitely shows seeping oil around the passenger side. I bought a replacement rubber seal/gasket from FCP Euro a while back, anticipating this job. Reading my eBahn shop manual, it says to only replace the seal/gasket with the valve cover. My questions are:
1. Do I really need to replace the valve cover and the seal/gasket together, or can I just clean the valve cover and install the new seal/gasket with the D-174-003-M2 sealant properly applied? VW says that D-174-003-M2 is the replacement part number for the original AMV-174-004-01.
2. While the valve cover's off, how do I properly clean the pressure regulator valve?
The eBahn page says:
12 - Cylinder head cover - Before installing, clean contact surface of cylinder head with clean shop rag
13 - To turbocharger
14 - Pressure regulator valve - For crankcase ventilation
15 - Cap - Replace seal if damaged
16 - Sealing sleeve - Replace if damaged
17 - 10 Nm - First, fasten all bolts hand-tight
18 - Seal for cylinder head cover - Only replace together with cylinder head cover - Before installing, seal contact surfaces with sealant AMV 174 004 01.
I have a 2005 BHW Passat with 163k miles on it. The valve cover definitely shows seeping oil around the passenger side. I bought a replacement rubber seal/gasket from FCP Euro a while back, anticipating this job. Reading my eBahn shop manual, it says to only replace the seal/gasket with the valve cover. My questions are:
1. Do I really need to replace the valve cover and the seal/gasket together, or can I just clean the valve cover and install the new seal/gasket with the D-174-003-M2 sealant properly applied? VW says that D-174-003-M2 is the replacement part number for the original AMV-174-004-01.
2. While the valve cover's off, how do I properly clean the pressure regulator valve?
The eBahn page says:
12 - Cylinder head cover - Before installing, clean contact surface of cylinder head with clean shop rag
13 - To turbocharger
14 - Pressure regulator valve - For crankcase ventilation
15 - Cap - Replace seal if damaged
16 - Sealing sleeve - Replace if damaged
17 - 10 Nm - First, fasten all bolts hand-tight
18 - Seal for cylinder head cover - Only replace together with cylinder head cover - Before installing, seal contact surfaces with sealant AMV 174 004 01.
P2B
Top Post Dawg
The plastic valve covers tend to warp. It will probably still leak if you replace seal only.
TedDively
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2019
- Location
- San Francisco, California
- TDI
- 2005 Passat BHW 5.5 GLS TDI, 2015 Passat SEL CVCA
Got it. The replacement valve cover has been ordered from IDParts.
Now for a really dumb question: Does the sealant go between the valve cover and the rubber gasket, or between the gasket and the head? The last time I replaced a valve cover, it was on a '64 Bonneville, so my experience in this area is a bit dated.
Now for a really dumb question: Does the sealant go between the valve cover and the rubber gasket, or between the gasket and the head? The last time I replaced a valve cover, it was on a '64 Bonneville, so my experience in this area is a bit dated.
jmodge
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- TDI
- More than I need, less than I want
A small amount in the corners where the cam radius meets the flat areas. The gasket is recessed and bonded to the valve cover. It doesn’t hurt to replace the bolts if they’re stretched. Over torquing will distort the cover and cause leaking also
This^ one. Just dab a little on the seam/joint where the cam caps meet the head.
Like jmodge says, careful on the torque, spec is 7ft/lbs.
TedDively
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2019
- Location
- San Francisco, California
- TDI
- 2005 Passat BHW 5.5 GLS TDI, 2015 Passat SEL CVCA
Thanks, guys. As they say, "a little dab will do ya." I broke down and bought a tube of the VW D-174-003-M2 sealant, just to be thorough.
oilhammer
Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
To add to the original topic (the ALH valve cover)...
My experience, I tried first a non-OE new valve cover (Febi brand). It leaked pretty much right away. Sent it back defective.
Tried another brand (Uro), it maybe went a few months, started leaking, but when I went to take it off, found the crappy grommet for the breather valve was split... so I took one out of a used OEM valve cover I had laying around and put that in thinking that was the leak. But it wasn't the only leak.
So last month, my Golf got a brand new OEM valve cover. And it is totally dry still.
What stinks is, the OEM ones are now over double the money. But, they take 20+ years to start leaking instead of 20 minutes. So I guess money well spent.
This isn't the first time I've had issues with non-OEM valve covers on ALHs, but was trying it specifically on my own car so I could more easily monitor it.
My experience, I tried first a non-OE new valve cover (Febi brand). It leaked pretty much right away. Sent it back defective.
Tried another brand (Uro), it maybe went a few months, started leaking, but when I went to take it off, found the crappy grommet for the breather valve was split... so I took one out of a used OEM valve cover I had laying around and put that in thinking that was the leak. But it wasn't the only leak.
So last month, my Golf got a brand new OEM valve cover. And it is totally dry still.
What stinks is, the OEM ones are now over double the money. But, they take 20+ years to start leaking instead of 20 minutes. So I guess money well spent.
This isn't the first time I've had issues with non-OEM valve covers on ALHs, but was trying it specifically on my own car so I could more easily monitor it.
TedDively
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2019
- Location
- San Francisco, California
- TDI
- 2005 Passat BHW 5.5 GLS TDI, 2015 Passat SEL CVCA
This is why I ordered the OEM valve cover, despite the added cost, for my BHW 5.5.
Unfortunately, the new valve cover arrived too late for me to install it before driving 1,140 miles round trip to San Diego last week. The car ran well, FWIW, although the mileage wasn't as good as it has been in the past. I'm hoping that replacing the valve cover will alleviate any weird CCV pressure, and that installing the new intake flap/anti-shudder valve will improve mileage. Before my trip, I de-gunked the EGR valve, and did an oil/filter and fuel filter change, just to be thorough.
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
I had the same issue with the aftermarket ones. Never lasted long. New OEM one still bone dry
TedDively
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2019
- Location
- San Francisco, California
- TDI
- 2005 Passat BHW 5.5 GLS TDI, 2015 Passat SEL CVCA
Following up on this gang. It seems that I can't maneuver the old cover out of place on the 2005 BHW 5.5 Passat unless I remove the intake manifold. After reading this article, and turning the cam by hand to move the tabs on the reluctor wheel so that the front of the cover can be maneuvered is straight forward, but the cover simply won't budge beyond that point, and the intake manifold is the culprit. The article doesn't shed any further light:
I've read, and re-read the intake, EGR and intake flap procedure. Is there any way to avoid doing all this work just to replace the seeping valve cover?
This job has actually turned into a PITA, which I suppose shouldn't surprise me, but jeez.
Any thoughts @oilhammer and everyone else?
I've read, and re-read the intake, EGR and intake flap procedure. Is there any way to avoid doing all this work just to replace the seeping valve cover?
This job has actually turned into a PITA, which I suppose shouldn't surprise me, but jeez.
Any thoughts @oilhammer and everyone else?
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oilhammer
Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
The valve cover can be removed without messing with the intake. I take the EGR pipe off, too.
TedDively
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2019
- Location
- San Francisco, California
- TDI
- 2005 Passat BHW 5.5 GLS TDI, 2015 Passat SEL CVCA
So, like this?
1. Remove the upper EGR cooler pipe.
2. Remove and replace the valve cover.
3. Replace the upper EGR cooler pipe with new metal gaskets.
Sorry for being dense, but how is there enough room to get it past the part of the intake where the upper EGR cooler pipe connects to it?
1. Remove the upper EGR cooler pipe.
2. Remove and replace the valve cover.
3. Replace the upper EGR cooler pipe with new metal gaskets.
Sorry for being dense, but how is there enough room to get it past the part of the intake where the upper EGR cooler pipe connects to it?
oilhammer
Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Hey, this one may be over your head.... I mean, I know I can't figure skate. Not even gonna try. LOL.
The valve cover will 'slide out' with the cam sprocket in just the right place to weasel it past the triggers on the CMP sensor wheel.
The valve cover will 'slide out' with the cam sprocket in just the right place to weasel it past the triggers on the CMP sensor wheel.
TedDively
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2019
- Location
- San Francisco, California
- TDI
- 2005 Passat BHW 5.5 GLS TDI, 2015 Passat SEL CVCA
So, remove the upper EGR pipe, rotate the cam sprocket until I can wiggle it out. I'm going to assume I need to renew the EGR cooler pipe gaskets, yes?
There are lots of things over my head, including figure skating, but on this car, I've successfully done the timing belt job, replaced the EGR cooler, fuel lines, coolant lines, tandem pump, rear coolant flange (very fiddly indeed), etc. This stupid valve cover has really driven me crazy, though.
There are lots of things over my head, including figure skating, but on this car, I've successfully done the timing belt job, replaced the EGR cooler, fuel lines, coolant lines, tandem pump, rear coolant flange (very fiddly indeed), etc. This stupid valve cover has really driven me crazy, though.
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TedDively
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2019
- Location
- San Francisco, California
- TDI
- 2005 Passat BHW 5.5 GLS TDI, 2015 Passat SEL CVCA
My local VW "stealer" has set aside the two proper metal gaskets for the upper EGR cooler pipe for me. I'll pick 'em up in a couple of days, and take another swing at this when my workweek is done. Honestly, thanks for all your friendly help guys, especially @oilhammer. I really appreciate your input, even when you think I might not be up to the job. LOL
ducatipaso
Airhead Butcher
oof, hopefully I won't have this problem as I'm putting a febi on right now
TedDively
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2019
- Location
- San Francisco, California
- TDI
- 2005 Passat BHW 5.5 GLS TDI, 2015 Passat SEL CVCA
Well, you were right on the money, @oilhammer. After I removed the upper EGR cooler pipe, I was able to slide out the old valve cover in just a couple of minutes, with almost no wrangling. A clean-up of the surface, an application of the D-174-003-M2 sealant, and the new valve cover's in place and showing no seepage at all. While I was at it, I replaced the intake flapper, as the plastic housing for the electrical connector had broken, and keeping them together was a delicate matter. One advantage of buying the OEM valve cover is that in addition to the integrated rubber gasket, it includes the bolts, which are the non-removable type.
