The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...

h2oskibum

Veteran Member
Joined
May 27, 2010
Location
West coast
TDI
1996 Passat
Put in a new stereo last week, the internal amp died. Today I tucked the RCA wires for a future amp into the passenger side wire looms in the door sill. Next on the list is to run the power wire to the trunk down the driver side door sill for the powered sub and upgrade the door speakers.
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
Finally busted off my ball joints for replacement tomorrow. After that I spent some time and replaced the old, and worn out, rear control arm bushings with Audio TT ones. Proping up the lower sway bar with a jack from the other side is a great way of keeping it out of the way while you hammer the control arm back in ;). Now, time to go clean up the knuckles before I get a shop to press new wheel bearings in =D.
 
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WINDSORB4TDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2009
Location
Nathalie
TDI
LOOKING
Well it wasn't today, but last week I replaced my catalytic converter that was very much clogged with a NEW Magnaflow converter.

The DECEASED:


Inlet side:


Outlet side:


Needless to say, I think it was time for a replacement. The difference in power was immediate. I did have to bring it right back in, because it was spiking to 20+ PSI. Turns out the wastegate actuator was full of oil!

Vince
 

Riley

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2009
Location
Texas
TDI
1996 Passat B4V
I'm replacing the torn boots on my axles. It's one of those jobs that I wished I paid someone to do. Surprisingly, at 196k the joints look like new. The right side is back in and left will be back in tomorrow.
Next week: replacing my leaking steering rack. That might be farmed out to someone.
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
Finished a yesterday...

Bilstein TC struts w/ near mounts and bearings
New wheel bearings & cleaned knuckles
New ball joints
New tie rod ends

Did all the work myself, sans pressing in the wheel bearings, which in itself is quite a feat since I've never done work like that before :). Special thanks to a couple people I used for advice!
 

john.jackson9213

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2007
Location
Miramar, Ca. (Think Top Gun)
TDI
1996 B4V
Finished a yesterday...

Bilstein TC struts w/ near mounts and bearings
New wheel bearings & cleaned knuckles
New ball joints
New tie rod ends

Did all the work myself, sans pressing in the wheel bearings, which in itself is quite a feat since I've never done work like that before :). Special thanks to a couple people I used for advice!

Aha - to be young again!!! Good work Michael.
 

tdidieselbobny

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 4, 2005
Location
Stafford,NY (WNY)
TDI
'03 Galactic Blue Jetta TDI, '15 Silk Blue Golf Sportwagen TDI
I just finished buttoning the car up a little bit ago. Ordered bunch of parts from Autohaus AZ and IDparts. I switched out the weeping IM w/ the one I snagged out of my old Jetta that doesn't weep and was clean. The weepy intake was somewhat clean,a little buildup around the head ports,not bad. It looked like oil was seeping from the ccv tube connection at block,so I swapped that out.The one on car was the 2 piece design-cleaned it up,saw no cracks,so I'll keep it as spare.The CCV tube I bought from Autohaus AZ looks pretty shoddy-get what you pay for(was almost 1/2 price of one from IDparts)-time will tell on the tube. Replaced the dipstick funnel. Replaced the CCV puck and grommet. Took off the plastic turbo intake pipe(from airbox)-seemed loose,but bolts tight. The ears were cracked on it(big surprise,huh?).Brought it in house-super glued the cracks and the metal inserts in,then I mixed up some JB Weld and spread it around both ears,and worked it into the cracks some w/toothpick.I did have to dremel out a little so the washer on bolt would sit flush. When I removed the IC pipes,there was some small pooling of oil in pipe going to turbo.While turbo pipe was off,I checked to see if I could feel any shaft play-really didn't feel any excessive play. After everything up top buttoned up,went and pulled the lower IC hose again-another couple ounces of oil runs out(car level,tires on ground).I'm hoping the new puck will help solve oil( dipstick was down about 1/2 into the mesh area). We shall see......
 

TonyJetta

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Sep 15, 2005
Location
Tucson, Az
TDI
'15 Jetta TDI SE / '06 Jetta TDI DSG Pkg0 / '96 Passat TDI
Replace the clutch.

200k on what appears to be the factory clutch. Replaced due to tune induced slippage. MY brother came over and helped out a LOT!

What a PITA! Oh, well, nearly done now. I checked the pedal feel, and WOW is that LIGHT!

I haven't started it yet, but I have checked for freedom of movement; The crank (read: clutch) spins fine with no interference.

I also had to replace the right inner tie rod. Inner edges of the tires were wearing funny. There was obvious slop in that ball-socket joint.

Just a few things to button up:
1) Make a new clamp for the turbo oil feed line; installed a later AHU feed line.
2) Set the toe
3) Adjust the shifter
4) Pour some liquid tape over some chafed wires I found. They are in a harness and don't really want to spend the 2 hours to 'properly' address them now.
5) Get it aligned.
6) Have some fun!

I figure I have about 2 hours worth of work. At least the heavy lifting is done!

Tony
 

TonyJetta

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Sep 15, 2005
Location
Tucson, Az
TDI
'15 Jetta TDI SE / '06 Jetta TDI DSG Pkg0 / '96 Passat TDI
So, the clutch replacement is completed.

Oil feed line support(s) are completed. Used the factory stud off the back of the head, and made a new bracket off the exhaust EGR flange.

I do need to buy a 3-hole banjo bolt...Currently running the 2-hole banjo bolt.

Shifter still needs a little adjustment; I really got tired of working on this car, for a little while, anyway. Hopefully, I won't have to do anything intensive of expensive until the next oil change! Which is 9k miles away!

I LIKE that clutch! Pedal feels just like stock: Pressure and engagement points appear the same! No splippage and smooth engagement.

Also replaced the Right Inner tie rod and outer tierod end. What is it about the B4's that the right inner tie rod ball/socket joint wears out after 60k miles?

Tony
 

h2oskibum

Veteran Member
Joined
May 27, 2010
Location
West coast
TDI
1996 Passat
Ran some #5 power cable down the driver side door sill and after some trim disassembly at the rear fender well area got it all neatly tucked out of the way. I know...that is over kill but I might put a couple more amps in the trunk some day and there will be plenty of power back there for them. Then I hooked up the Infinity BassLink subwoofer and adjusted it to my liking. Now there is bass that has always been out or reach for the door speakers.
 

Jetter_Sprinta

Veteran Member - TDIClub Contributor
Joined
Nov 7, 2002
Location
Boston, Massachusetts
TDI
2 Peeps sharing 1 UseYerName//an array of cars
Vacation's Over!

....finally got around to replacing the radiator in our "Krappy Wagon"

my tip is (for a new radiator) to pre-tap (run the screws in/out) the stanchions on front and rear (8 total) for ease of mounting the condenser and fans. Particularly the lowers. Setting the lower radiator hose connection adapter with the radiator removed is a lot easier too!
This install seemed a lot easier than the last one I did on the red sedan in the background. Mainly because I was able to disconnect the upper condenser hose. System's empty anyways thanks to an overpriced and underperformed repair. Got almost three days of cool air :-/...KMH motors, we'll be visiting you soon to get it done right!
Bring the snow!
 
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Jetter_Sprinta

Veteran Member - TDIClub Contributor
Joined
Nov 7, 2002
Location
Boston, Massachusetts
TDI
2 Peeps sharing 1 UseYerName//an array of cars
City Light Wiring

Since I had the nose apart anyways....
may as well hit one of the items
on my pathetically easy,
but yet still LONG over due list....
city light "livening"

Hmmm what's missing here?




push out the rubber plug & save for later


....because it serves as nice seal around the wire to be connected




Now, where to find the right connector....hit the parts bin and fire up the connector extraction tool;)



With the wire and connector removed,
it pops/locks right into the oem plug:cool:
Euro connector, on the cheap!


side shot of the installed connector / jumper.....



Works like a charm! (((or as I like to say "chaaaaaam":eek: )))
 
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Jetter_Sprinta

Veteran Member - TDIClub Contributor
Joined
Nov 7, 2002
Location
Boston, Massachusetts
TDI
2 Peeps sharing 1 UseYerName//an array of cars
hmmm good idea:cool:, what do you do, make a "v" out of it to depress both sides simultaneously? The grinder was handy and pretty efficient, depth of cut is key though. I just got it real close, semi exposed and opened it up with the needle nose pliers.
 

btcost

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2002
Location
Boston, MA
TDI
'12 JSW, '00 Jetta (totaled 12/23/10), 1987 M-B 300D
Well not all done in one day, but over the past few weeks at 3 different locations:

Re seal IP, cam & lifters, t belt & water pump.
LCA bushings, ball joints, all 4 shocks. Rear brakes and bearings.
New idparts downpipe, new exhaust manifold gadgets.

Like a new (305k) car!

My friend is happy.
 

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
On the Mrs' '96 B4:

Changed the lower radiator hose o-ring since it was leaking. The PM (Previous MORON) tried fixing it with stop-leak. While I was in there and noticed the floating metal particles, I flushed the system 4 times and refilled with the evil green (which is what he had in there). I need to drain again since the thermostat housing I had was bad, so I had to order another.

Installed another horn to try and get it to work right (two distinct and delayed tones), but think it may be in the steering wheel since that made no change. Only one horn button on the steering wheel works currently.

Replaced the glow plugs, but could not compression test since the new compression tester is angled at a 90° and would not fit properly. One of the glow plugs was slightly eroded at the end. Found 3 thermal breaks in the wiring harness shroud, so it'll get a new one of those as well and I'll just test it then. I RTV'd it in the meantime since she drives it often.

Lubed all the door hinges with soy based lube, which seems to combat door bonk up here.

Bled the clutch slave in an attempt to get it to engage at a different point. It looks like the clutch is worn, so I'll throw a new one in this summer. It's not slipping, but is at the top of the pedal.

Installed new mint shifter and emergency brake boots I just got out of the junkyard.

Actually used the new mig welder for something useful, had to weld on a muffler support bracket to the $20 cheap muffler. The PM put a 2.5" cat back on it and when the muffler fell off after the axle beam, I couldn't believe how loud it was. Mine was silent by comparison and I have no mufflers. It's the Mrs' car and completely stock, so it got a new muffler.

Tossed a new timing belt on it a short time ago since the PM had no clue they were even supposed to be changed. Motor is tight (oil stayed golden for a few hundred miles, vs like 10 for mine), just gutless by comparison. She may not notice some .205 injectors and a RC, but the clutch will. Oh well. She doesn't need any more power anyway.

Put a new driver's wiper arm on since the PM stripped the hell out of the other one.

Still need to do a diesel purge, tear apart the seat track so it'll move easier, install the underbelly pan, buy a new battery, change the front rotors, new thermostat, maybe some injectors if it keeps stumbling right after starting (mine doesn't do it at all with double the mileage), clean the intake, disable the 5th injector, install some cupholders, install the fog lights (already have the switch), hook up the rear fogs, and weld up a hole I found under the carpeting in the rear. I'm glad to have a heated garage in which I can work after hours, but I'll be glad for summer.
 
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Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
Last night on my B4 I replaced one of the broken fog lights with a new one from the junkyard. I also took off the puck drain hose to see why it's weeping oil. It deformed since it's a CRAP Meyle part. No more buying Meyle for me if I can help it.
 

Jetter_Sprinta

Veteran Member - TDIClub Contributor
Joined
Nov 7, 2002
Location
Boston, Massachusetts
TDI
2 Peeps sharing 1 UseYerName//an array of cars
Last night on my B4 I replaced one of the broken fog lights with a new one from the junkyard....
The OEM lights look cool but, because of how fragile they are, I just don't hardly use them. Especially if it's cold and wet, the perfect combination for the lenses to crack as the all do:rolleyes:. Pretty much for show(and they don't do a whole lot even when they ARE on:confused:. Ge the 3M covers if you can!

..It deformed since it's a CRAP Meyle part. No more buying Meyle for me if I can help it.
I was surprised that the last Meyle part I purchased was made in China. The part was not cheap, NO reason for it to be from China. They got me once....
 

slapshotjh

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Location
CT
TDI
97 GLX B4V
I really like the factory fog lights when its dark and rainy. It make finding my lane easier when there is a lot of glare from oncoming lights and highway driving.

That said, I can't seem to keep the lenses from cracking....
 

tdidieselbobny

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 4, 2005
Location
Stafford,NY (WNY)
TDI
'03 Galactic Blue Jetta TDI, '15 Silk Blue Golf Sportwagen TDI
Filled it up today-went up 3.4 mpg from last fillup,no different driving,same place-last fillup I put 2x (8oz) silver Powerservice ,4 oz white Powerservice in. I need to check glowplugs-if I don't wait for click from under dash-car VERY difficult to start-really do need that extra few seconds.Starts a little better if I cycle the plugs twice,but still smokes like a Trojan......however,the smoke when cruising between stoplights doesn't seem as bad.I need to see if I can tap that dipstick tube down some more-I've pushed quite hard to try and seat it,but whenever i pull dipstick out for first time,the tube comes with it:rolleyes:.....
 

TonyJetta

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Sep 15, 2005
Location
Tucson, Az
TDI
'15 Jetta TDI SE / '06 Jetta TDI DSG Pkg0 / '96 Passat TDI
Filled it up today-went up 3.4 mpg from last fillup,no different driving,same place-last fillup I put 2x (8oz) silver Powerservice ,4 oz white Powerservice in.
After the turbo, tune, and clutch work, I've picked up 2mpg...Tuesday's tank average 44.8mpg! We'll see how the tanks average from here!

While my gain isn't as big as yours, I thought I would add mine to the thread.

I need to see if I can tap that dipstick tube down some more-I've pushed quite hard to try and seat it,but whenever i pull dipstick out for first time,the tube comes with it:rolleyes:
Isn't there a clip that the dipstick tube seats onto, on the underside of the tube?

Tony
 

tdidieselbobny

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 4, 2005
Location
Stafford,NY (WNY)
TDI
'03 Galactic Blue Jetta TDI, '15 Silk Blue Golf Sportwagen TDI
Isn't there a clip that the dipstick tube seats onto, on the underside of the tube?

Tony
I don't see a clip-the metal tube coming from block has a ridge on it near top,and the orange tube has indentation -it **looks** like it could be pushed down some more,but I don't want to push on it too hard-my luck I'll bend the metal tube or break it off at block.I think I'll try a small hammer and a small piece of soft wood to see if I can tap it on. I do have a spare(I bought 2,they were 90 cents apiece from Autohaus AZ). I haven't checked IC pipe again,but oil seems to be at same spot on dipstick.So far I've put almost 3400 miles on the beast:D....
 

Matt-98AHU

Loose Nut Behind the Wheel Vendor
Joined
Apr 23, 2006
Location
Gresham, OR
TDI
2001 Golf TDI, 2005 Passat wagon, 2004 Touareg V10.
I did this to my new-to-me B4 the other day:



Yanked the trashed engine, stripped it and sent it off to the machine shop. I got this car in exchange for labor on another member's car. Cylinder #3 scored to hell, top piston ring completely collapsed, that piston just not in very good shape at all.

Time to go overbore :D

Nice, clean California car. Next to no rust on anything. Even the parts under the hood look very corrosion free.
 

crankme69

Veteran Member
Joined
May 16, 2011
Location
Ill.
TDI
1996 Passat
Repairs done last weekend, it was almost 50 degrees out here last week, today we had a high of 16F.

Changed out the drivers door window regulator, the old one had eaten a few teeth off.

Swapped out the harmonic balancer both belts & tensioner pulley. Cold start squealing resolved.

New Wally World battery...old one was weak.

Dropped down to 6F here last night, it fired right up this morning :)

Most all the repairs were done from info gathered from this site, Thanks!
 

TonyJetta

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Sep 15, 2005
Location
Tucson, Az
TDI
'15 Jetta TDI SE / '06 Jetta TDI DSG Pkg0 / '96 Passat TDI
When I replaced the timing belt last October, I figured out the AC compressor wasn't mounted correctly. This was corrected during the water pump replacement. However, I did not change the serpentine belt at the time, leaving a longer belt in place, for the short term.

So, today, I changed the belt and used the correct length.

If anyone with a 1Z / AHU is in doubt whether or not they should use a clutched pulley, I STRONGLY recommended it.

When I get the car going, 3 years ago, and until recently, the serpentine tensioner would always vibrate back and forth.

When I replaced the timing belt last October, I installed the clutched pulley.

With the clutched pulley, the serpentine tensioner no longer vibrates back and forth...it stays rather steady. This MUST reduce the back and forth tension on the crank pulley, and crankshaft timing pulley as well.

Tony
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
Tony,

In respose, I have a cart-before-the-horse question. When I had my TB replaced, it was the 120K one so I replaced the tensioner and the roller and my own wobble went away. This didn't alleviate the extra vibration and noise I had from the engine though and that turned out to be a bad AC compressor. When I changed that out, the roller stopped vibrating back and forth as well.

So, is a clutched pulley useful for hiding tension differences of the crank puller and crankshaft that would have been the cause of the failed compressor that could have been the cause of the failure, or was the failure just natural and the clutched pulley just help that not go as quickly?

If that is bad wording, I'm guess I'm asking if the vibration the result of a problem that is pre-existing that will be hidden by the clutched pulley, or if the pulley would remove a cause of the problem?
 
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