Project Kill Da Auto Wabbit!, Or how I learned to love the Manual Swap

[pfiermka]

I posted the pic of the auto tranny pan with the metal plug. I read the manual and didn't realize it was under the metal plug.....duh. It was late I was tired and just wanted to get that boat anchor out.

Well I learned something which is worth the price of addmission.

Mr. Frey I got my axles on the vortex forum from a kid for $55 shipped. I wanted to used the auto axles so I searched for 108mm flanges and worked a deal. This is after the junk yard sent me the wrong flanges, 100mm, now I have 2 sets to sell, anyone need any?

 

[odinsjetta]

My dad and I did a manual swap on his car a month or so ago. We still have a few bugs to iron out, one of them is the ECU coding. The coding has been changed to 0002 and he still gets a whole bunch of auto transmission related faults. Any ideas?

 

[alphaseinor]

The auto transmission faults are in the can bus somewhere. I can't remember where exactly... I need to find someone with a newer swap so I can take a look at it.

 

[odinsjetta]

The auto transmission faults are in the can bus somewhere. I can't remember where exactly... I need to find someone with a newer swap so I can take a look at it.

Thanks for the help with this and with the entire how to swap, never would have attempted this without it! Now getting a CEL from this, however it would be nice to clear them up.

 

[Losha]

Thanks for the help with this and with the entire how to swap, never would have attempted this without it! Not getting a CEL from this, however it would be nice to clear them up.

Go into Can-bus and change coding to 6 if it was 7 before. That should fix the problem with auto codes poping up. What it does is it lets can bus to know that its not auto anymore. I know its been said that on 2001 and earlier models don't have to recode can-bus, but I did anyway and it worked fine no codes other then CEL for my IP that is going out.

 

[odinsjetta]

Go into Can-bus and change coding to 6 if it was 7 before. That should fix the problem with auto codes poping up. What it does is it lets can bus to know that its not auto anymore. I know its been said that on 2001 and earlier models don't have to recode can-bus, but I did anyway and it worked fine no codes other then CEL for my IP that is going out.

Thanks for the info. Going to give this a try right away. Will let you know if it works or not.

 

[odinsjetta]

Checked out the coding in CAN gateway and it was already 6. Any other ideas?

 

[Losha]

Checked out the coding in CAN gateway and it was already 6. Any other ideas?

Hm, something is not right with wiring I guess. Does cruise control & starter interlock work?

 

[odinsjetta]

Hm, something is not right with wiring I guess. Does cruise control & starter interlock work?

The starter interlock definitely works, although we need the proper switch (normally closed). Cruise is not working though. Do you think it has something to do with that?

 

[Losha]

The starter interlock definitely works, although we need the proper switch (normally closed). Cruise is not working though. Do you think it has something to do with that?

More likely yes, that could be the problem. You mean you don't have second clutch swith for cruise control, right? What did you at ECU connector? did you swaped pin #19 with pin #66?

 

[odinsjetta]

More likely yes, that could be the problem. You mean you don't have second clutch swith for cruise control, right? What did you at ECU connector? did you swaped pin #19 with pin #66?

It was a while ago, but I'm pretty sure that we swapped pin 19 and pin 66. We do have two switches at the clutch, one for cruise and the other for starter interlock. Just need the proper switch for the interlock. The switch that we have is normally open instead of normally closed. Not sure why cruise is not working though. I haven't had much time to go over these details on his car lately. I am borrowing it for a while though so maybe I can get to the bottom of them.

 

[Losha]

It was a while ago, but I'm pretty sure that we swapped pin 19 and pin 66. We do have two switches at the clutch, one for cruise and the other for starter interlock. Just need the proper switch for the interlock. The switch that we have is normally open instead of normally closed. Not sure why cruise is not working though. I haven't had much time to go over these details on his car lately. I am borrowing it for a while though so maybe I can get to the bottom of them.

You can use eigther of switches, it matters in which place you put it. The starter interlock should be located up on top of pedal and cruise control on bottom closer to driver seat. When you press clutch in the top switch is closed circuit for started interlock and bottom switch for cruise control would be open circuit that would cance cruise control.

When you swaped pins, you were supposed to connect two wires together at TCU connector the colors I believe blue/yellow or grey/red (can't remember of my head for sure) then at relay connect one wire of clutch switch (the one for cruise control) to that blue/yellow or grey/red and another end of that clutch switch to green/black wire from relay. That should get your cruise control to work properly and get rid of any codes for auto.

 

[pfiermka]

The switch for the cruise is normally open and when the pin is depressed it completes the circuit, closes. When the switch is installed the pin is depressed by the clutch pedal and the switch is closed allowing voltage to go to the ecu. When you press the clutch pedal in the pin moves out , the switch opens which cuts the voltage to the ecu telling it to turn the cruise off.

You want a switch that is normally open.

there is a good explanation in the wiring instructions for the swap that GdB wrote up.

 

[MR. Frey]

pfiermka
i am right on your heals I saw your posts on vortex and am in negotiations for a set now.
new 108'mm flanges cost $150 ea and are dealer only Thanks Bora. for finding that out for me and he can get them for slightly less. part number 02J30113F
I remeber some one saying you could sell your used auto to a trany shop but there only offering a 100 bucks better than nothing I guess should I bust it apart and e bay the pieces or call the 100 bucks a good deal?
thanks Mr.Frey

 

[jasonTDI]

huh.....just did an 02' last week and it works very well.

The auto transmission faults are in the can bus somewhere. I can't remember where exactly... I need to find someone with a newer swap so I can take a look at it.

 

[GdB]

Specific recode procedure to get rid of CELs

My dad and I did a manual swap on his car a month or so ago. We still have a few bugs to iron out, one of them is the ECU coding. The coding has been changed to 0002 and he still gets a whole bunch of auto transmission related faults. Any ideas?

If the wiring is all good, I think the problem may be you did not follow the very specific recode procedure to get rid of CELs from lack of TCU.

What are the exact CEL codes?

 

[02 jetta]

What electriacal issues do you have to correct before the car will start? Like if you did the swap and wanted to dirve the car until you had time to mess with the electrical issues. Will it start without the clutch saftey switches?

 

[GdB]

What electriacal issues do you have to correct before the car will start? Like if you did the swap and wanted to dirve the car until you had time to mess with the electrical issues. Will it start without the clutch saftey switches?

I had some pesky CEL's also until I figured the sequence.

From the instuctions I posted (in my sig below):
"16. Recode the ECU using Vag-com (it's not a PCM, it doesn't control the transmission) to 0002 (I think that's the right number of 0's, it should be set at 0001 for auto trans now). Go to 01-Engine and change the soft coding from 0001 to 0002. Keyswitch to the off position immediately after. Clear all the fault codes, after running the engine, no faults should return. The 19-can gateway recode is not required."

OK, I think there is some room for error with those instructions, try this:
Vag-com :Go to 01-Engine and change the soft coding from 0001 to 0002.
Keyswitch to the off position immediately after.
Clear all the fault codes, and disconnect VAG-COM
start engine, no faults should return.

 

[02 jetta]

So you could operate the car after changing the coding in vag com just in the absence of backup lights, cruise control, and clutch saftey switch correct?

 

[GdB]

I'm not understanding what you did or did not do.

Spell it out.

 

[GdB]

So you could operate the car after changing the coding in vag com just in the absence of backup lights, cruise control, and clutch saftey switch correct?

The minimum is the starter interlock relay fix. Replace the old one as in the instructions, and you will have to do some wiring. I'm not sure how much, or why you would want to not do it all right.

For that matter just follow ALL the instructions and make this easier!

 

[02 jetta]

never mind just trying to ask some question sorry to bother you

 

[GdB]

Oh, I'm not bothered.

With all the complex electronics on cars nowadays, I have to say we are lucky that to even make this work, let alone get rid of the CEL's. So big thanks are deserved by those that started the uphill battle of figuring this out.

That said, the information in this thread is like a gold mine. I condensed it to make it as easy to use as possible.

So it behooves anyone attempting to do this swap to fully utilize the free and valuable information.

 

[csstevej]

As Gdb stated doing the starter interlock relay is a must,the reverse lights are probable the easiest to hook up.I did not run a switch to my clutch pedal for starting (grew up on manuals before they put them in) plus one more thing to prevent the car from starting.
My cruise is still not hooked up but soon will be when the weather gets warmer.
About 20,000 miles since conversion and loving it.

 

[midntdi]

Would an audi tt short shifter work in place of the diesel geek one?

 

[alphaseinor]

Actually technically you can just hack off the counterweight on a stock transmission. This will give you enough clearance for the power steering line.

Shoot me a link to the Audi TT short shifter... if it's in the shifter box, then no.

 

[midntdi]

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3775656 heres where its for sale.

 

[GdB]

Actually technically you can just hack off the counterweight on a stock transmission. This will give you enough clearance for the power steering line.

Shoot me a link to the Audi TT short shifter... if it's in the shifter box, then no.

I think that "counterweight" is designed to keep the vibrations (my area of expertise) from the engine/tranny goeing to the stick. I can't see it being useful for anything else.

 

[jimbote]

couterweight....

the counterweight is to provide a "weighty" feel when shifting, decreases shifting effort and reduces "notchy" feel, it really has nothing to do with vibration isolation.....add on shift weights are an upgrade for MK1 cars and greatly improve the "feel" when shifting....I guess if you really want that chintzy "rabbit" feel again cut the weight.....

 

[GdB]

Can it be removed without cutting?

Now I want to try driving without it, and see what I prefer.