Project Kill Da Auto Wabbit!, Or how I learned to love the Manual Swap

[alphaseinor]

Project Kill Da Auto Wabbit!, Or how I learned to love the manual swap.

First post last updated 3/22/2010 - new part numbers for switches.

I'm working in a wiki version of this page... you can find it on Digi Sport Performance White Papers page.

Please read the entire thread (Currently as of 1-26-08 is 31 pages long...) before you decide to do this!!!

First This is a thread where I am going to go through what I did to swap out my automatic transmission to a manual 5 speed. If you want to do this, go ahead, this is just a reference to what I did, not the definative guide on the subject.

Second, GDB did a writeup on the wiring
in Word .doc format here
in .PDF format here

Here's what I got from the Junkyard
Transmission & mounts
Axels
Flywheel, Pressure Plate, Clutch, Misc.
Dust "tins" from engine assembly (there are two)
Clutch Pedal Assembly
Clutch Pedal Line
Shifter Box
Shifter Linkage
All Bolts and nuts, clips, brackets, etc...
All interior peices that touch the stick shift
Starter (looks identical... but is not)

Here are some common parts that you might not be able to find in the junkyard: Thanks to Rodrigues
Small Clip on Master cylinder - 7M0 721 431
O ring for master cylinder - 02F 141 143 A
350mm Hose to Hydraulic Tank - 857 721 453
Clutch pedal firewall gasket - 1j1 721 410
3 M8 Nuts that hold clutch pedal in N - 902 264 03
Transmission dust cover plate (manual) 06a 103 645 m
Engine dust cover plate (manual) 06a 103 645
Axle Bolts x12 (ask the dealer)
Transmission bolts there's four of them, two different sizes (ask the dealer)
53 relay (very common in VW's... just look around)
a bunch of butt connectors

Here's some part numbers (still need to be verified)
AXLES
1 Axle Left 1J0 407 271 H
1 Axle Right 1J0 407 452 X
8 Bolts 893 407 237
6 Spacer plates 1J0 407 357 A
2 Locking Nuts N 905 876 02

TRANSMISSION
1 EGR coded trans 02J300047M

TRANSMISSION FLUID
2.0 Liters G 052726A2

TRANSMISSION BOLTS
1 Top Bolt Rear N 10337803
1 Top Bolt Front N 90701604
3 Oil Pan Bolt N 90870401
1 Bottom Rear Bolt N 10337803
2 Starter Bolt N 90766202

TRANSMISSION LEVER
1 Shifter Assembly
1 Knob Assembly 1J0711113BB
2 Lock Washer 1J0711280B
2 Bushing for up down 1J0711067L

CLUTCH PEDAL
1 Clutch Pedal Assembly
1 Bracket 1J1721379B
1 Bracket Cruise unknown
1 Clutch Hose 1J1721465AL
1 Slave Cylinder 1J0721261H
2 Salve cyl bolts N 0103324
5 clutch pedal bolts N 90226403

CLUTCH SHEILD
Main Part 06A103645
Axle releif 068103645M
Bolt N 0102085
spring washer N 0122265


STARTER
1 Bosch 02A911024DX

CLUTCH
1 SMF Valeo G60 VR6 Kit
includes all bolts, flywheel pressure plate, cltutch, throwout bearing

ELECTRICAL
1 '53' relay
8 pink crimps
Clutch Switch Cruise 1J0 927 189 E
Switch Cruise Connector 6N0 972 704 D
Clutch Switch Starter 1J0 927 189 C
Switch Start Connector 1J0 972 702
Reverse switch 02K 945 415 C
Rev switch connector 1J0 973 702

SPECIAL PARTS
1 modified bracket
1 short shifter

paper clip, or terminal tool (for the wiring)

You need a Vag-com, triple square bits, an engine support ( www.northerntool.com has a nice one for $60), transmission jack (you can use a come along, or a couple of ratchet straps), clutch alignment tool (some of the clutch kits come with them), sockets, torque wrench, lots o misc tools... etc ad nausium... You may have to dig into the relay, and I'll post photos on that later in March 2007...

Photos of stuff

Here's what I got for my clutch
G60 VR6 Flywheel Non-lightened for best gas mileage on the highway, besides, I don't race autocross in my golf.
Stock G60 clutch (should hold about 250lb ft of torque)
Stock G60 Pressure Plate
Misc Bolts stuff
Trans Mount Bolts (they are stretch bolts, marked with an X)
Axle Bolts for a Manual transmission

If you want something that will hold more torque think about a dual diaphragm clutch like the one that BleachedBora sells at www.boraparts.com

Here's what I paid for everything
$1200 for anything I wanted from the TDI I ripped everything out of, with the exception of the motor, and interior. They didn't let me take the PCM (ECU, computer, whatever we call it) however you will just need to go into engine--> coding --> change the number from 2 to 1 leaving the leading 0's intact (see www.ross-tech.com for the exact information).

$400 for the G60 clutch and misc bolts... you can probably just use the clutch that came with the other TDI, I would personally use a new one www.boraparts.com www.tdiparts.com www.dieselgeek.com are all good places to look for parts.

$300 for the short shifter from www.dieselgeek.com which is needed for clearing the stock power steering line. if you decide not to use the automatic version of the power steering line, this is not covered (yet) in this document.

There is tax, shipping, misc other things like fluids, bolts, and other misc things that go into this type of thing (think about $100-$200). There will be some modification to the wiring harness, so if you are not ready to solder or crimp something, then you should probably look into trading your Auto TDI for a Manual TDI.

That's $2100 for the swap, you can add about $1000-1200 in labor if someone is doing this for you (I charge $1200 + parts to do this, and it takes a "three day weekend")

As you can see there is plenty of room for the clutch pedal, and you don't need to have the shortened brake pedal like in the MKIII cars

The photo of the grommet where the clutch pedal hydraulic lines shows that at least with my car, it should be relatively easy for everything to get done.

This is where the master brake cylinder will need to be cut on the reservoir to connect the clutch. On my car, it's just nip, and connect.


Step 1: I removed the air box, and placed a paper towel into the turbo inlet hose. A tip on removing the air box is to take the MAF Connector, vaccum hose, then remove the top of the air box. there are two (10mm wrench) bolts holding the bottom of the air box on the chassis, you can get at them with an extension. then you should be able to see the transmission much better.

Step 2: Remove the Battery, and battery tray.

 

[Fortuna Wolf]

Ok, I'll be watching! I'm sure I'll have questions too, but for now, keep up with the swap and good luck. Is that a used VR6 clutch and flywheel, or new?

I think I'll save up a few thousand to do the swap along with some other upgrades like ESP at the same time.

 

[alphaseinor]

I have a new one coming, I don't have photos yet as I just ordered it on Fritag...

 

[compu_85]

FYI, with vag-com, you can recode your ECU and tell it you have a manual transmission.

-Jason

 

[alphaseinor]

Step 3: Hang clutch pedal
3a: Unscrew the two screws the carpet hold down behind the pedals, remove the carpet holddown

3b: remove the firewall material from the firewall by pulling from the top, and pulling it down and out.

remove the grommet from the firewall.

It should look like this after you are done,

Photo of the (mostly) installed clutch pedal from the firewall.

INSTALLED!!!

There are three nuts on the studs, you will need a 8" extension and a deep socket to get the one on the top, I greased the top nut so it wouldn't slip out of the socket. This took about an hour to get the pedal installed, partially because I was trying to find my 8" extension.

Note that you want to remove the hydraulic line from the pedal assembly, there is a metal clip that makes it easy.

Everything went really smooth for me, there are metal standoffs (anti-crush washers) on the hydraulic assembly which if you remove them before you put the clutch in, it will go in much easier. then just put the washers back in, tighten, and you're done.

Step 4: Drain the transmission fluid as much as you can. There is a 6mm allen "dipstick" plug, then remove the "dipstick" with the 6mm allen from the pan of the transmission. let it drain, then stick the dipstick back in, and then the plug. Recylce old fluid whereever possible.

Once these are done, out with the transmission, linkage, PRNDL lever... and in with the new stick shift.

 

[Fortuna Wolf]

PCM? The ECU? Why is it necessary to fool it?

 

[alphaseinor]

Step 5a: remove the lever by pushing down the lever shaft sleeve with a screwdriver, then push the button and pry the sleeve and the shift lever should come up. Then pry the metal trim off, it has four tabs. remove the four torx screws and then lift out the surrounding trim (the large one with the power outlet, and change drawer), remove the connectors for the lamp and the power outlet. pry off the PRNDL display and get a #2 or lerger phillips screwdriver and remove the housing. pry out the shift lock release (like a bicycle brake cable connector), and remove the two connectors. Unplug the transmission selector cable from the transmission by prying carefully.

Step 5b: Remove (partially) the exhaust: The Exhaust will have a coupler, it has two 18mm nuts, I didn't need to use a breaker bar to break it loose. You will need to unbolt the rear hangar mount for the muffler: this uses two 13mm bolts. next you will have to unbolt the collector on the turbo downpipe, this has three 13mm nuts. pull the collector off (it has a flex pipe attatched, so this is easy). Then you will need to remove the hangar mount directly aft of the turbo. this uses two 13mm bolts, but I just used a wrench to get them off as I didn't see any way of getting a rachet in there. After this is loose you should be able to slide the exhaust off the coupler, and the exhaust will hang down a bit.

Step 5c: Remove the front most heat sheild. Where you just removed the exhaust, you will find a flimsy heat sheild. you just pry off the nuts (or unscrew them with a screwdriver and your fingers) being careful not to break them. there are three tabs holding them in, which you can just carefully bend out of place. remove the heat sheild after these four nuts are removed by pulling the heatsheild towards the front of the car. you will be able to work with an 8" extension and a 13mm socket to remove the remaining two bolts on the automatic lever. Just remove the shift box. very easy. took me about 30 minutes to do this step... might take about an hour if you have a problem with the exhaust

Step 5d: You just install the shifter box (the stick) you got from the junkyard by putting the cables on top of the transmission (they don't connect at this time) and put the box up into the hole. Loosely bolt up the bottom with the two bolts, then tighten the the top all the way with the two nuts. go back under and finish tightening the bottom bolts. It should look something like this:

Step 5e: Put the heat sheild back. I used a 13mm deep socket to help push the nuts back on, it should click a bunch of times.. The three tabs, I bent by hand, but you can use a screwdriver. (macro lens was broken for this part, and this was done without the use of a lift)

Step 5f: Put the exhaust back. Start by putting the pipes back together, then put turbo collector back on, then the muffler mount, then the mount that is aft of the turbo. pull both pipes together until they stop. Then tighten the coupler with the 18mm socket.

Step 6: You will need either a coupler (I used one) the manual transmission metal coolant line, or a length of hose to bypass the transmission "cooler" (or was that heater???). Remove the spring clip, and pull the hose off the backside being careful to move quickly to plug the leak. insert the coupler, and then do the same for the other side, spring clamp them, and you're done. It'll look something like this when you are done:

 

[Fortuna Wolf]

Oooo,
I didn't think about that. So, is it possible that the cluster will need to be swapped too to make it perfect?

 

[compu_85]

Just code the ECU (it's not a PCM, it doesn't control the transmission) to 0001 (I think that's the right number of 0's, it should be set at 0002 for auto trans now), and subtract 1 from the soft coding of the CAN Gateway (address 19). There's no reason to 'fool' the comptuers when you can do it properly in software. As I understand it the shift display on the cluster will just blank out... or you can just cover it with a piece of tape. Same with the press brake to shift light.

Also, because your Golf is a 99, there is no Immoblizer. You can change the cluster without having to worry about the keys... it just plugs in. A cluster from a 99 New Jetta or New Golf with the standard trans will drop right in and illiminate any shift lights or gear displays, without the need to recode anything (in the cluster).

-Jason

 

[alphaseinor]

This post was off topic... so I've removed it.

I later found out the transmission is controlled by another box... the TCU

 

[alphaseinor]

It's been a week, so I'm going to try to finish the Removal and installation of this project this weekend... I just got my VAG-COM from Ross-Tech... They've had it for a while... it'll probably be about another week before I can do the recode. If not I'll just do it sunday night.

Fun fun fun... till the govnah takes the Diesel away!

 

[alphaseinor]

I updated my post above with some photos! I feel like today was productive. I one spent about four hours removing and installing stuff, and found I ordered a 9mm triple square instead of a 8mm triple square for the axels... sucks to be me... I'll pick one up tonight, and have the tranny out tomorrow night. I probably won't get this totally done until next weekend... Lots of work at work this week!

 

[Fortuna Wolf]

My axles have M12 bolts on them, and not M8 or M10s. Weird, huh?

 

[alphaseinor]

I guess VW's engineers decided they like variety? The 9mm version is just a little too big for the bolts that are on there...
I still haven't measured the axels to see if they are the same length, splines, and spacing on the transmission. Other than that, this is the easiest transmission change I have done since my 130 mph Turbo Geo Metro.

 

[Fortuna Wolf]

Coolness, that's great to hear. I have some leads on transmission swap packages myself

 

[alphaseinor]

Okay, I picked up a triple square m6, m8, m10, m12 set at Pep Boys for $15.

The passengers side triple square was almost totally stripped from the dealer installing used bolts on both sides (they charged me for the new bolts, still have the receipt on the shipping, and the bolts). The spindle was not tapped, or helicoiled like what was charged, just tap chased (didn't need anything. But that is off topic...

Sorry, no photos... no macro lens on my current digital camera.


I removed the axles, I used a M8 and a M12, unusual... It helps if you have someone counter-spin the wheels for you. used a little bit of pressure (okay, I used a breaker bar, only after the craftsman ratchet broke... LOL).
After the axles are loose, you just need to place them to the side, I used a couple of plastic bags tied onto the ends of the axles to keep the grease from getting tainted. Cleanliness is paramount here.

While you are under there, have someone move the camshaft clockwise (I used my mother-in-law and the metalnerd camshaft thingie). Then you get to look on the engine side of the transmission, above where the axle came out. slowly spin, holding a flashlight, look for a nut (there are three of them, mine were 15mm and 16mm... obviously a job from the dealer, LOL).

While you are under there, you need to remove the transmission bolts on the bottom of the transmssion, then the lower mount (pendulum mounts have a stabilization). Then the top starter bolts (don't forget to remove the electical leads!).

Unfortunately that's all I have for tonight... there should only be the top pendulum mount, and two transmission bolts on the engine left... so DON'T LOOSEN ANYTHING ELSE!!!

Tomorrow night kiddies, time for the modified engine jack, since mine needs to be bled for some reason... I'm thinking of a sissor jack, or just going out and buying a new jack from wally-world ($14.95).

 

[Fortuna Wolf]

I think a scissor jack would be safest, and they tend to have semi secure "carriages"
Why is it necessary to lift the engine? I thought that you just needed a transmission jack.

 

[owr084]

Other than that, this is the easiest transmission change I have done since my 130 mph Turbo Geo Metro.

I laugh at your turbo Geo. The blower is sooooo much better

 

[alphaseinor]

I think a scissor jack would be safest, and they tend to have semi secure "carriages"
Why is it necessary to lift the engine? I thought that you just needed a transmission jack.

You have to support the engine, there will only be one mount holding the engine in, and that is on the timing belt side.

 

[alphaseinor]

I laugh at your turbo Geo. The blower is sooooo much better

I Laugh at both! It's amazing what people do with too much time on their hands... looks like this guy had a bit of money too... or serious kung-foo-chee-chuan-chow welding $ki11Z

I could take him in the twisties tho... probably on the top end eventually... Did I mention I have a ticket for wasting natural resources thanks to that car?

 

[gottdi]

I did an auto to manual swap on an 84 Dodge Colt. The simplest swap in the world. The tranny, shifter, pedal assembly and remove one wire that is no longer needed. It took all but 6 hours from start to finish. I removed it from a car from the wrecking yard for $75 for all the parts. I needed no new parts. When the job was done the car had more pep and went from 28 mpg to 32 mpg without a tune up. Nothing more than a tranny swap. With the tuneup I was in the 34 mpg range. It's nice that manufacturers make these to drop in either at the customers request and by design it actually costs the manufacturer no extra money. Just pick and drop it in. I think the Colt was much easier than this VW but it looks like a decent swap without too much trouble.

 

[Fortuna Wolf]

Well, alpha, you're taking pictures and are going to do a writeup for me so my swap goes more smoothly, right?

 

[alphaseinor]

I did an auto to manual swap on an 84 Dodge Colt. The simplest swap in the world. The tranny, shifter, pedal assembly and remove one wire that is no longer needed. It took all but 6 hours from start to finish. I removed it from a car from the wrecking yard for $75 for all the parts. I needed no new parts. When the job was done the car had more pep and went from 28 mpg to 32 mpg without a tune up. Nothing more than a tranny swap. With the tuneup I was in the 34 mpg range. It's nice that manufacturers make these to drop in either at the customers request and by design it actually costs the manufacturer no extra money. Just pick and drop it in. I think the Colt was much easier than this VW but it looks like a decent swap without too much trouble.

I hope you had the two speed transaxle 5 speed...
I miss my '84 Colt Turbo GTS....

 

[TooRoundTDI]

I did an auto to manual swap on my 87 camaro, THAT was an easy swap. The only pain was making the template for the clutch pedal hole, luckily I had my dads camaro right there to do it. I like how your car had the hole pre-cut with the studs there and all, very nice. Cool write up, it will come in handy if I ever find a deal on a auto tdi. Theres NO WAY it would stay an auto. Im very interested in the ECU issues that you may or may not have. I hope its as easy as recoding to the manual code with VAG. Thats actaully how I switch back and forth from RC2 to RC3. Did you think of putting a 6 speed in at all and if so what was your decision not to?

 

[alphaseinor]

Well, alpha, you're taking pictures and are going to do a writeup for me so my swap goes more smoothly, right?

That's the idea, hopefully it's verbose enough. I just need a nice macro lens...

 

[alphaseinor]

Did you think of putting a 6 speed in at all and if so what was your decision not to?

I am just putting in a 5 speed, because the 6 speed with a low enough gear ratio is quite hard to find here in the states.

 

[alphaseinor]

Finally got my Sachs clutch, and Corrado Flywheel from MJM, I opted for the lightened flywheel, unlike what I said earlier. I'll let you guys know how it works.

Here's the flywheel.

The Sachs clutch number is 3000 384 001, it came with a pressure plate, clutch, and throwout bearing.
The MJM came with new bolts for the flywheel, and pressure plate.

Special thanks to DHL for shipping it and it actually arriving for once. even if it were a day late, and they didn't knock...

 

[Fortuna Wolf]

So we should see completion soon?

 

[alphaseinor]

Probably Saturday/sunday... then I can screw with the wiring a bit...

 

[Fortuna Wolf]

This is gonna be great
uh, I hope that thou knowest how to drive manual