Search results

Agreed. I have an '05 Liberty and at 119K miles it has been far from trouble-free. IDParts has been instrumental in keeping it running. Since I bought it in 2016 with 70K miles I have had to replace the torque convertor (I went with Suncoast), two sets of glow plugs, two alternators, battery...

I know there are members with more, but my '03 Wagon just logged 300,000 miles.

I've done over a dozen timing belt changes on the ALH engine, using parts from Dieselgeek, and have never had a problem: https://www.dieselgeek.com/collections/vw-tdi-timing-belt-kits

If you are referring to the little bulb underneath the low beam headlight, they're called city lights. They use a W5W (or 194) bulb. They come in different colors, too.

Not necessarily. A few months ago, I had one that stopped working completely. Replacing the batteries did nothing. The red LED on the fob flashed, but nothing else happened. I also went through the procedure to have the car re-learn the remote, with no success. The only solution was to replace...

PM sent.

Please sign me up for the VCDS class, and to hang out and help others with their cars. I also have VCDS running in a Virtual Machine on a Macbook. If needed, my 2003 wagon can be used for the ALH model in the class.

Under the dash on the passenger side, inside the passenger compartment. I believe the glovebox has to be removed to get to the blower motor and resistor.

This has been absolutely the BEST car I have ever owned. Nine years, 177,000 miles.

Would you be referring to the camshaft?

Plus 1.

I replaced my control arms with arms fitted with TT bushings. I also replaced the wheel bearings. It made quite a difference.

This is good info. I had no idea this would happen.

Try these: http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=620 http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1617

I had the same problem on a Dodge that I owned. As it turned out, one of the diodes on the rectifier was open, making it half-wave. This had the effect of making the alternator charge only when the engine was revved above idle. I would check the rectifier...

May 12th, maybe?

I called the nice people at raxles.com. I got right and left refurbished OEM axles with new CV joints packed in grease and ready to install for $400, shipped to my house. With all of the work that I did to my front end, the car drives better than new... http://www.raxles.com

A shaking or shimmy under hard acceleration usually points to inner CV joints. My car also had other issues, such as "wandering" or following the ruts in the road left by tractor-trailers, and clunking when going over bumps. My control arm bushings were worn out. I ended up replacing a lot of...

I would check the inner CV joints. I had the same problem when accelerating, and replacing the dogbone and transmission mount did not help. After replacing the axles and control arms, the problem went away. This was at 167K miles.

Do the turbo seals on the CR engines tend to leak oil at idle like the earlier turbos?