gmann49ers
Well-known member
How bad is it if you drive your car with a cracked DPF? I haven’t noticed any difference in power or fuel economy. I’m now getting EGR codes.
I plan on getting it fixed soon in the next month or so. Ordering the DPF won’t be hard but the $700 core charge is an issue.One guy told me he would just clean his egr filter pipe every 2000 miles to solve those codes. He got tired of the hassle and bought a new dpf. I cleaned a filter pipe last week & can verify those codes are gone for now, but now on the freeway it's throwing a 000665 and going limp-mode & flashing glow plug light. To my surprise, you can clear the codes while running and it stops limping. I thought for sure you'd have to key-off and restart (which works too, without clearing codes).
I don't think keeping a cracked dpf is a long term solution.
I plan on getting it fixed as soon I can. I don’t know how long it’s been cracked.Eventually it takes out the deNOx catalyst, too, as that was never intended to have soot belching through it either. Just did my second one of those so far this year.
Both cars had bad DPFs, the owner was informed about it, and a few months later when they came back for a new one, they also found out they required an extra $1500 part.
I'm also finding recently in a lot of cases, these cars need thermostats. Because once the new deNOx catalyst is in, they won't ever regen to set readiness because the coolant temp won't get over the 87C threshold to allow it. And they'll never set a P0128 "coolant below regulating temp" either. What makes it worse is, normal operation during regens is the fans come on... this is to help move air through the engine compartment. But if your thermostat is stuck open, it exacerbates the problem and makes it even harder for the engine to achieve let alone maintain proper operating temps.
That is why deletes are popular.Well I will get the parts Friday and I found a shop who has replaced these before. It will cost around $2,300 total. I still hate spending that much.
Yeah I would but I don’t want to get caught rollin coalThat is why deletes are popular.
With the CR Diesel's and a good tune, mine only roll coal if I WOT and even that it isn't a big or black cloud.Yeah I would but I don’t want to get caught rollin coal
My first check engine came on around 1800 miles ago. It stayed off awhile after I reset it. It would also regenerate still. So I haven’t driven much. I hope nothing else is wrong.Eventually it takes out the deNOx catalyst, too, as that was never intended to have soot belching through it either. Just did my second one of those so far this year.
Both cars had bad DPFs, the owner was informed about it, and a few months later when they came back for a new one, they also found out they required an extra $1500 part.
I'm also finding recently in a lot of cases, these cars need thermostats. Because once the new deNOx catalyst is in, they won't ever regen to set readiness because the coolant temp won't get over the 87C threshold to allow it. And they'll never set a P0128 "coolant below regulating temp" either. What makes it worse is, normal operation during regens is the fans come on... this is to help move air through the engine compartment. But if your thermostat is stuck open, it exacerbates the problem and makes it even harder for the engine to achieve let alone maintain proper operating temps.
Can you explain this a little more fully? I recently did a DPF delete and noticed on my test drive that the car couldn't get to 90°C even on the cluster's temp gauge. Even though it was just a little above freezing here, driving it for 20minutes fairly hard....I expected the needle to get to 90°C.I'm also finding recently in a lot of cases, these cars need thermostats. Because once the new deNOx catalyst is in, they won't ever regen to set readiness because the coolant temp won't get over the 87C threshold to allow it.
Ran into the same issue after a delete. Thermostat was faulty. It was staying open to where I couldnt get above 70C after an hour of driving. Changed it and now it reaches 87-90C everytime!Can you explain this a little more fully? I recently did a DPF delete and noticed on my test drive that the car couldn't get to 90°C even on the cluster's temp gauge. Even though it was just a little above freezing here, driving it for 20minutes fairly hard....I expected the needle to get to 90°C.
Funny the BRM we have has a EGR delete and won’t get past 80C on the highway. It is -30 here today though.Ran into the same issue after a delete. Thermostat was faulty. It was staying open to where I couldnt get above 70C after an hour of driving. Changed it and now it reaches 87-90C everytime!
Im guessing youre out west ? And that could be a factor as well but I feel like it should reach a little higher than that. Whats it like when its around 0C?Funny the BRM we have has a EGR delete and won’t get past 80C on the highway. It is -30 here today though.
Eh, its not that bad. I didnt put it in service position. I just removed the ASV and move the alternator towards the front of the car a little bit for extra room. Took my time removing it so I didnt break the plastic pipe and kept the Oil filter housing in place.That thermostat looks absolutely buried! How much of a job is it to get at it to replace?
Can you provide whom can perform thta for my 2012 passat TDI. I live in NCThat is why deletes are popular.