CP3 fuel pump upgrade thread

[calimustang]

I just realized the CP3 pump installation on my car does not appear to have the temperature sensor. I only realized it when considering removing the secondary filter with the OEM fuel line from the fuel filter to the CP3 pump. It's been like that for over 60K miles with no issues. I included a photo below. I guess I don't need it, but why? Does anyone know?

Edit: Actually, 2-micron's original also doesn't appear to have the OEM Temp Sensor. It looks like mine.

From installation Instructions - Is that metal piece a replacement for the parts on the OEM Fuel Line? Mine has something inserted there with wires that appear to be the sensor. I also saw this just now. "The Feed is the dual temperature / hose barb adapter." So it's a fabricated part, but it's missing that larger black portion from the OEM Fuel line pictured below. What is that black kind of square thing on the OEM Fuel Line?

OEM Fuel Line with Temp Sensor - 5N0130307J

mine are set up just like that for both JSW (past 2011 and now 2014)

no temperature sensor. I personally think it is ugly to have the temperature sensor.

 

[ksing44]

I think the Temp Sensor is at the very end of this OEM part (5N0130307J), but what is that black kind of square thing on the OEM Fuel Line just before the "T" for the split before the Fuel Line and Temp Sensor? I don't have that on my car after the CP3 conversion.

 

[McGuirk]

It's a metal mesh filter screen. I've physically cut into it before to look at what it was.

 

[ksing44]

^^Thank you for your response! Considering I currently have a secondary 2-micron polishing filter, a crude metal mesh filter screen seems redundant. Now the question is if that filter screen should be re-included if I remove my secondary filter. I should probably just make the trip to the shop that can replace my 2-micron filter. I was just trying to simplify things and also trying to avoid what essentially would become a full day of traveling and waiting for my car. Thanks again for your help!

 

[pimpnutts]

Add me to the list! I started out doing a timing belt and found my cp4 leaking so i decided to upgrade. First start up last night so I'll give an update after I get some miles on her. I did the Whitbread performance swap does the metering valve wiring have be one way or another? when changing the plug I kept the orientation the same as the cp4, Thanks for any input. 2014 JSW

 

[thatwhitejsw]

Currently have my car at my local shop getting the CP3 installed w/ a 2200 bar fuel pressure sensor. Definitely looking forward to the enhanced reliability...!

 

[redrevolt]

You can add me to the list (if we're even keeping track anymore)! I just swapped in a CP3 using the Whitbread kit, when I did my timing belt. I did update my Tunezilla to include the CP3, even though it came with the correct FMV.

 

[calimustang]

You can add me to the list (if we're even keeping track anymore)! I just swapped in a CP3 using the Whitbread kit, when I did my timing belt. I did update my Tunezilla to include the CP3, even though it came with the correct FMV.

you need to contact @YukonLT but he hasn't been around here for almost a year.

 

[ksing44]

I just had the secondary 2-micron polishing filter removed from my 2010 Golf TDI that has a CP3 pump. Even the shop that installed the CP3 did not have the replacement filters and the technician explained that most people don't use the secondary filter anymore.

But now my idle is a bit odd. It seems a higher idle (1000 RPMs vs 800 RPMs) is a bit sticky, e.g., it stays high longer during warm-up and even when fully warm the idle will stay a bit elevated (900 RPMs) when the car is moving. And by "moving", I mean just rolling/coasting not in gear with the clutch engaged or not. Once the car is fully warm and fully stopped, the idle will drop to the normal 800 RPMs. This is different behavior than before the secondary filter was removed, but I can't say for sure it was actually caused by removing the extra filter. This behavior isn't a regen episode. I monitor EGT. There are also no CELs, but I have not scanned the car yet with VCDS.

Questions:

1. Now I wonder if the change in idle is related to removing the secondary filter. Is that possible?
2. Could it be related to the "metering valve" I've seen mentioned on this thread, e.g., could the CP3 need a different metering valve when used without a secondary filter?
3. Also, does anyone have any idea about why coasting out of gear, with clutch engaged or not, would cause the car to have a slightly igher idle?

 

[kashtyaatsi]

I just had the secondary 2-micron polishing filter removed from my 2010 Golf TDI that has a CP3 pump. Even the shop that installed the CP3 did not have the replacement filters and the technician explained that most people don't use the secondary filter anymore.

But now my idle is a bit odd. It seems a higher idle (1000 RPMs vs 800 RPMs) is a bit sticky, e.g., it stays high longer during warm-up and even when fully warm the idle will stay a bit elevated (900 RPMs) when the car is moving. And by "moving", I mean just rolling/coasting not in gear with the clutch engaged or not. Once the car is fully warm and fully stopped, the idle will drop to the normal 800 RPMs. This is different behavior than before the secondary filter was removed, but I can't say for sure it was actually caused by removing the extra filter. This behavior isn't a regen episode. I monitor EGT. There are also no CELs, but I have not scanned the car yet with VCDS.

Questions:

1. Now I wonder if the change in idle is related to removing the secondary filter. Is that possible?
2. Could it be related to the "metering valve" I've seen mentioned on this thread, e.g., could the CP3 need a different metering valve when used without a secondary filter?
3. Also, does anyone have any idea about why coasting out of gear, with clutch engaged or not, would cause the car to have a slightly igher idle?

Mine does the same thing, figured it was normal.

 

[ksing44]

^^Thank you for your response @kashtyaatsi! That makes me feel better. Would you say it's normal for you but also slightly different with the CP3 than before the swap? I'm getting accustomed to my new normal. It's not a terrible thing, just a bit louder with the higher idle at times. It seems there is a certain resonance to the sound in my car when the idle is at 900 RPMs that goes away completely at 800 RPMs.

 

[kashtyaatsi]

Actually I think I noticed it doing it after I got it tuned, which was pretty much right after I bought the car 3+ years ago. Haven't thought about it much since. I keep the car plugged in all winter though so I'm not sure it really does it then.

 

[dholli]

After sitting on my kit for maybe a year, I decided to do the install finally when my alternator went bad. Luckily the alternator is a breeze to replace when the hpfp is out of the way. That's where my luck has run out. Had a terrible time bending the line to clear the EGR valve. First attempt, it poured diesel out because the fuel line was misaligned. Got that fixed and got all the air out, but noticed a little trickle of diesel dripping off the bottom of the oil pan. The drip slowed to a stop and I chalked it up to remnants from the previous leak. Gave it some throttle in neutral and no leak. Took it around the block and accelerated out of a turn and the motor died with a faint popping sound. Now the car won't start and I'm not getting any fuel at the rail with a few drops of fuel on the ground after cranking.

Is there any chance I have a leak somewhere on the low pressure side and when I gave it some throttle it sucked in some air and air locked the motor?

 

[calimustang]

did you ever try to crack the lines at each injector by starting at the farthest one to release air out of the fuel rail by the injectors?

make sure one of the injector at the farthest one open a bit and crank the engine about few seconds until air comes out to fuel pouring out a bit then stop. close it. do the same on the next injector to the 4th on the pass side. she should fire right up.

Do you have aux pump or bypassed?

 

[dholli]

did you ever try to crack the lines at each injector by starting at the farthest one to release air out of the fuel rail by the injectors?

make sure one of the injector at the farthest one open a bit and crank the engine about few seconds until air comes out to fuel pouring out a bit then stop. close it. do the same on the next injector to the 4th on the pass side. she should fire right up.

Do you have aux pump or bypassed?

Yes, I purged the air out by cracking the injectors individually the first time around. Had to crack open the filter housing to get fuel up to the hpfp, so I'm assuming I'll have to do that again. The aux pump is removed. The car ran fine at idle. I'm trying to figure out how air got in the system to try to prevent that from happening again.

 

[turbobrick240]

Should be easy enough to track down which connection is leaking fuel. My guess would be one end of the line you had a hard time bending.

 

[calimustang]

ok, good. check the line that you had a hard time bending like what turbobrick said. check that one as well. it could be damaged and leaking. the fuel system in common rail cannot have any kind of leak then your engine wont like it.

 

[dholli]

I appreciate the help guys. I'm hardly getting any fuel out of the pump now. I have it cracked at the inlet to the rail.

 

[mikerob97]

Could the pump pulley have loosened up from the pump shaft? Might have to remove the upper timing belt cover to check.

 

[dholli]

Could the pump pulley have loosened up from the pump shaft? Might have to remove the upper timing belt cover to check.

I was thinking about that, is the shaft/pulley keyed at all? It's been a couple weeks of troubleshooting so I don't really remember.

 

[mikerob97]

I was thinking about that, is the shaft/pulley keyed at all? It's been a couple weeks of troubleshooting so I don't really remember.

Sorry for the delayed reply.

The CP3 pump shaft and pully mounting flange are NOT keyed. So if your pump is not producing flow or pressure, it may not be rotating. It is just a working theory...

 

[dholli]

I managed to get some time to work on my car yesterday. I managed to get fuel to all the injectors but it wouldn't start. I checked the rail pressure in vcds and it was only getting up to about 500 kPa while cranking. No leaks anywhere. It's been throwing a couple codes inconsistently. The most common one being EGR valve intermittent, which is probably because the connector might not be fully seated, but I wouldn't think that would cause a problem starting. It also throws a lot rail pressure code but that seems more like a result rather than the cause of the problem. It also threw a throttle actuator malfunction error once, but I haven't seen it other than that one time.

 

[UncleDirtnap]

Everyone seems to have only the adapter kit available, not the full thing. Do we know what cp3s will work? There are a couple of wrecked bmws x5 in my junkyard that probably still have the pump, and a truck guy on my local marketplace with cp3 with a 2022 date that he is upgrading away from.

 

[BarleyFennel]

Just finished a cp3 installation on my 12 jsw. Currently running into an issue where I can't get any sort of fuel to come from the high pressure side. We've verified that the feed and return lines are in their proper place and nothings leaking. We've had the lift pump on via vcds for ages and even tried to crank the engine a few times right after priming with the lift pump. No matter what not a drop comes out of the high pressure side. We checked to make sure the hub is fastened down correctly and it spins the shaft whenever we crank the engine. The only other info I can think to give is that this is a BMW R70 pump from Cascade German with a Fisher Motorworks mounting kit. Do I just have a cooked pump or is there something I'm missing here?

 

[calimustang]

ok, what happened before you upgraded the cp3? did you have cp4 failure? if so, you may have debris in the fuel hoses blocking the fuel flow. if none of that.... then check the in tank pump to make sure it is working then aux pump etc.

 

[Garrison]

Just finished a cp3 installation on my 12 jsw. Currently running into an issue where I can't get any sort of fuel to come from the high pressure side. We've verified that the feed and return lines are in their proper place and nothings leaking. We've had the lift pump on via vcds for ages and even tried to crank the engine a few times right after priming with the lift pump. No matter what not a drop comes out of the high pressure side. We checked to make sure the hub is fastened down correctly and it spins the shaft whenever we crank the engine. The only other info I can think to give is that this is a BMW R70 pump from Cascade German with a Fisher Motorworks mounting kit. Do I just have a cooked pump or is there something I'm missing here?

If you swapped out your fuel filter it can take a while to get the filter reservoir full; I just pulled the line going from the cp3 to the injectors and ran VCDS until fuel gushed out (not recommended but it worked). Did you delete your Aux pump? I seem to remember reading here that the BMW R70 CP3 needs the aux pump in order to run

Just food for thought, you'll get it

 

[dholli]

Well, I figured out why my car stalled and would not start back up. Cracked open the fuel filter housing and it is full of metal shavings that were not there before I put the CP3 in. Extremely frustrated as I took out a working CP4 and installed this CP3 specifically to avoid having a fuel system full of metal shavings. I've reached out to the company who rebuilt my pump and hopefully I can figure something out.

 

[BarleyFennel]

If you swapped out your fuel filter it can take a while to get the filter reservoir full; I just pulled the line going from the cp3 to the injectors and ran VCDS until fuel gushed out (not recommended but it worked). Did you delete your Aux pump? I seem to remember reading here that the BMW R70 CP3 needs the aux pump in order to run

Just food for thought, you'll get it

Turns out the aux pump was exactly what I was missing. Probably should have figured since the cascade r70 doesn't have a low end gear pump on it. But she runs now, thanks!

 

[ukf44]

Hello again! I'm having some problems with my passat that I converted to the cp3 pump. Yesterday I did park the car where I park it everyday that has a bit of a ramp. Today I started the car to drive to work and while in drive the car stalled and wont start again.
So I started to investigate and I found a craked hose on the return line coming from the rail. Before this I was getting faulty codes (fuel pressure too low) when hard accelerating above 3000 rpm but when driving normal the car ran smoth.
Can be this the problem?

 

[vegasgopher]

This thread has been a great help throughout, but I've run into an issue that I could use some help with. Just finished up last night and took it (2012 Golf 6mt) out for a test drive. Idles great, runs fine at part throttle. First tip in to aggressive throttle and I feel boost build normally for a moment and then it falls on its face. Limp mode, I assume, as it then has very little throttle after that. The only code that I get is a P2017 Intake manifold runner position sensor/switch circuit high.

Just finished:
Whitbread CP3 w/ proper 643 FMV
Timing belt, WP, Tstat
Had the P2015 prior, so used a new CKRA intake manifold w/o the swirl flaps
2200 bar oem fuel rail sensor

Both the rail sensor and swirl flap delete were allegedly tuned for/out in the latest tune revision.

I emailed the tuner to see if they have any input. Considering putting the old rail sensor back in and flashing back to the last working tune. Would the unplugged swirl flap motor give the P2017?

Looking for any advice or direction. Thanks in advance.