narendra.k
Member
Where does other end of the breather valve (CCV puck) conected to. Is it conected to air filter inlet, thanks for sharing .
ALH TDI engine transplant into '84 Vanagon
- Thread starter AndyBees
- Start date
Ski in NC
Top Post Dawg
He's got it running into an eductor in exhaust piping.
That rig bothers me a bit. The heat at the tie in point may coke the oil and possibly block flow. There's alot of heat in that pipe, especially pushing a large vehicle. Blowby restrictions do bad things to engine.. like blowing the hardest to get to crank oil seal.
If you are not running egr, just run it to turbo suction. If you don't want fumes in intake, just go old skool and set up a draft tube. A coalescing filter can be fabbed with a container stuffed with fiberglass insulation or fg house filter media, that will keep oil off your hatch and rear window.
That rig bothers me a bit. The heat at the tie in point may coke the oil and possibly block flow. There's alot of heat in that pipe, especially pushing a large vehicle. Blowby restrictions do bad things to engine.. like blowing the hardest to get to crank oil seal.
If you are not running egr, just run it to turbo suction. If you don't want fumes in intake, just go old skool and set up a draft tube. A coalescing filter can be fabbed with a container stuffed with fiberglass insulation or fg house filter media, that will keep oil off your hatch and rear window.
DanG144
Top Post Dawg
Good comment, Ski.
I think running it into the turbo inlet is fine; it is a good low pressure area, and you can use the heater element from the original engine's CCV.
My hat is off to you, Andy. Fine job.
I have a BEW engine (RC2, complete with all harness, ECU and controls) ready to transplant to something.
But I know that I will NOT put in the time to do it, so I will sell it -one of these days.
I think it would make a fine small truck engine.
I think running it into the turbo inlet is fine; it is a good low pressure area, and you can use the heater element from the original engine's CCV.
My hat is off to you, Andy. Fine job.
I have a BEW engine (RC2, complete with all harness, ECU and controls) ready to transplant to something.
But I know that I will NOT put in the time to do it, so I will sell it -one of these days.
I think it would make a fine small truck engine.
JFettig
Vendor
Shouldn't the tap in the downpipe be post cat? You don't want the back pressure causing crank case pressure.
I've been wanting to build a catch can for my Passat for a while like I did one for my Audi A4, you could tap yours into your oil pan with that extreme angle. I tapped into the lower CCV: http://stuff.jfettigmachines.com/A4/tn_IMAG0182.jpg
The aluminum cylinder, it has a SS scrubbie and the oil drains back to the crank case and smelly vapors are burned.
I've been wanting to build a catch can for my Passat for a while like I did one for my Audi A4, you could tap yours into your oil pan with that extreme angle. I tapped into the lower CCV: http://stuff.jfettigmachines.com/A4/tn_IMAG0182.jpg
The aluminum cylinder, it has a SS scrubbie and the oil drains back to the crank case and smelly vapors are burned.
AndyBees
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 27, 2003
- Location
- Southeast Kentucky
- TDI
- Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Points all well taken.........
Since this is a project in the making, some systems will be considered in test mode right off the get go. So, I'm prepared to opt for Plan B or C with most of them as the case may dictate. I have a spare "hose" and CCV puck to do an elephant trunk if necessary. I've read about extractors upstream from stock mufflers with long exhaust pipes that were reported to work just fine. Down stream from the CAT would be extremely hot. The CAT dumps directly into the muffler (glas-pack) which may not last long anyway due to the additional heat. Also, in the intake piping, at the normal location (OE), is the capped nipple and heat element to connect a hose to pull the blow-by out. I'm prepared to do that, if necessary. However, that's what I wanted to get away from...keep that crap out of the InterCooler.
I did consider doing a "catch" device (did one on my 1980 Rabbit Diesel many years ago). All that includes more pipes, more maintenance, more clutter, etc....
I plan to pull the CCV punk and install the spare before I start the engine. At that point, I can check for suction on the E-Vac system........ across the RPM range! If it doesn't work, there is ample room to re-locate it post CAT.
Well, I've been in errand mode again today. However, I am heading to the garage to fill the engine with oil and crank it over for priming!
Since this is a project in the making, some systems will be considered in test mode right off the get go. So, I'm prepared to opt for Plan B or C with most of them as the case may dictate. I have a spare "hose" and CCV puck to do an elephant trunk if necessary. I've read about extractors upstream from stock mufflers with long exhaust pipes that were reported to work just fine. Down stream from the CAT would be extremely hot. The CAT dumps directly into the muffler (glas-pack) which may not last long anyway due to the additional heat. Also, in the intake piping, at the normal location (OE), is the capped nipple and heat element to connect a hose to pull the blow-by out. I'm prepared to do that, if necessary. However, that's what I wanted to get away from...keep that crap out of the InterCooler.
I did consider doing a "catch" device (did one on my 1980 Rabbit Diesel many years ago). All that includes more pipes, more maintenance, more clutter, etc....
I plan to pull the CCV punk and install the spare before I start the engine. At that point, I can check for suction on the E-Vac system........ across the RPM range! If it doesn't work, there is ample room to re-locate it post CAT.
Well, I've been in errand mode again today. However, I am heading to the garage to fill the engine with oil and crank it over for priming!
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
Looking good Andy!...solid conversion for sure....I really like how your paying attention to detail the first time around instead of letting it "slide" and "getting around to it" later.... those "laters" are hard to come by once your driving a rig 
....your conversion is built with a purpose in mind (trip to Alaska!) and I love it!! your preparing well for the journey and it shows in your work!!...on a side note (and I've wondered this for awhile) what's wrong with the way the factory routes the blowby gasses?....I see so many people modding their CCV's to vent direct to atmosphere or into catch cans what have you....I've been using the stock setup on all my cars for many miles (my conversion included) and I've had zero issues...is this for less intake coking?...better MPG? ...more power?...please educate me on the purpose of this mod
....your conversion is built with a purpose in mind (trip to Alaska!) and I love it!! your preparing well for the journey and it shows in your work!!...on a side note (and I've wondered this for awhile) what's wrong with the way the factory routes the blowby gasses?....I see so many people modding their CCV's to vent direct to atmosphere or into catch cans what have you....I've been using the stock setup on all my cars for many miles (my conversion included) and I've had zero issues...is this for less intake coking?...better MPG? ...more power?...please educate me on the purpose of this mod narendra.k
Member
Don’t you think this setup (breather pipe to tail pipe),will affect emission norms.
markward
Veteran Member
On my original conversion version, I used part of the stock rubber boot to connect my CCV. My concern was having it so close to the MAF sensor. At one point I also found oil in the low spot of my turbo outlet pipe. I was unable to determine if the oil was from the turbo or CCV. Moving the CCV of the turbo inlet seems to have solved the accumulating oil. With my breather open to underneath the Van, I long extended highway drives I do get tiny droplets on the back hatch.
rackaracka
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2001
- Location
- Monroe, NJ
I am pretty sure that the venturi of the scavenger will create a vacuum - as long as exhaust is moving by - rather than pressure. It will be interesting to see the results. Stellar work Andy.
AndyBees
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 27, 2003
- Location
- Southeast Kentucky
- TDI
- Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Update
Last evening/night, I dumped in 5 quarts of oil but didn't attempt to crank-over the engine. So, this morning, to my surprise, I had three oil leaks in the welded seams of the oil pan. I had previously checked for leaks using Carb cleaner and actually found two for the welder to repair. Wow, I thought it was good to go.
Anyway, I spent a good part of the day today wrestling with the oil fill plug on the tranny. I finally gave up and purchased a "better" tool. But, it was still very stubborn to break loose. Darn, why do people tigthen oil drain/fill plugs so *amn tight?
I went ahead and attempted to pump up the engine oil by cranking it with the GPs removed (GPs came out extremely easy). After several long crank attempts, I was satisified that it was not pumping oil (the oil filter in the housing was still nice and dry).
So, knowing that my oil pan had three leaks that needed attention, I drained the oil and removed the pan............cleaned it nice and squeaky! Looking at the oil pump pick-up tube and where the oil level (obvious) was on it, I come to the conclusion that 5 quarts of oil wasn't enough. When I got it all back together, I dumped in 7 quarts of oil. (I did prime the pump as best I could with tranny fluid .....the thick stuff.)
Anyway, to make sure the cam and lifter tops were not hurting from the cranking, I removed the cover and poured a small amount of oil on the lobes before cranking again.
After about three attempts cranking over the engine, I checked the oil filter........almost full. So, more cranking and oil was at the Cam!.......... Wow, it's almost ready to fire-up!
Here are some pics of my engine cover. I'm pretty pleased how it turned out. It is 2 5/8 inches high measured from the rubber seal. It has two supports that run "back to front" that are located 12 inches in from either side. I plan to install insulation of some sort for noise and heat reduction.
The brown thingy in the background is the OE carpet flipped forward over the back seat.
Don't ask me how much that thing cost............
Below is a shot straight-on (see all my junk on either side?)
The pic below is a close-up looking at the right side........
Below is a close-up shot looking at the left side...
I do plan to fab a wood frame for each side and cover it with 1/4 inch luan panel and use the OE carpet. This will be something that may change as I work with it. ..........time is running out on me!
Last evening/night, I dumped in 5 quarts of oil but didn't attempt to crank-over the engine. So, this morning, to my surprise, I had three oil leaks in the welded seams of the oil pan. I had previously checked for leaks using Carb cleaner and actually found two for the welder to repair. Wow, I thought it was good to go.
Anyway, I spent a good part of the day today wrestling with the oil fill plug on the tranny. I finally gave up and purchased a "better" tool. But, it was still very stubborn to break loose. Darn, why do people tigthen oil drain/fill plugs so *amn tight?
I went ahead and attempted to pump up the engine oil by cranking it with the GPs removed (GPs came out extremely easy). After several long crank attempts, I was satisified that it was not pumping oil (the oil filter in the housing was still nice and dry).
So, knowing that my oil pan had three leaks that needed attention, I drained the oil and removed the pan............cleaned it nice and squeaky! Looking at the oil pump pick-up tube and where the oil level (obvious) was on it, I come to the conclusion that 5 quarts of oil wasn't enough. When I got it all back together, I dumped in 7 quarts of oil. (I did prime the pump as best I could with tranny fluid .....the thick stuff.)
Anyway, to make sure the cam and lifter tops were not hurting from the cranking, I removed the cover and poured a small amount of oil on the lobes before cranking again.
After about three attempts cranking over the engine, I checked the oil filter........almost full
. So, more cranking and oil was at the Cam!.......... Wow, it's almost ready to fire-up!Here are some pics of my engine cover. I'm pretty pleased how it turned out. It is 2 5/8 inches high measured from the rubber seal. It has two supports that run "back to front" that are located 12 inches in from either side. I plan to install insulation of some sort for noise and heat reduction.
The brown thingy in the background is the OE carpet flipped forward over the back seat.
Don't ask me how much that thing cost............
Below is a shot straight-on (see all my junk on either side?)
The pic below is a close-up looking at the right side........
Below is a close-up shot looking at the left side...
I do plan to fab a wood frame for each side and cover it with 1/4 inch luan panel and use the OE carpet. This will be something that may change as I work with it. ..........time is running out on me!
mlemorie
Veteran Member
I may have missed it, but what oil pick up are you running? 7qts seems like quite a bit, although I am never one to argue with more oil in an engine (safely). We need video of the first firing too, just saying
DanG144
Top Post Dawg
Yes, if it will not pick up with 5 quarts in it, what do you plan to run for normal oil capacity? I would think that only two above no suction was not adequate.
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
Hey Andy....not sure where your oil pickup resides but I believe under 1/4 of an inch clearance between the pan and pickup is ideal (you can check this with some modeling clay)....I agree with Dan...with five quarts you should have primed easily....it actually should have primed with less than two!!
whitedog
Veteran Member
About the priming, I had difficulty getting a pump to prime after the engine had sat for a few years. I finally took the pump off and filled it with vaseline. That was enough to get it to prime.
AndyBees
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 27, 2003
- Location
- Southeast Kentucky
- TDI
- Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Update comments
I did use modeling clay to determine the height of the pick-up tube. It's about 5/16 inch off the bottom.
I think the fact that the oil system was totally dry was a contributing factor. The old oil filter was so dry when I pulled it out of the canister that it left no residual oil on my fingers.
It was really more like 6.5 quarts of oil that I dumped in (spilt about 1/2 qt). You have to remember, the oil pan is modified and may require more oil to bring the level up.
Well, I'm getting a late start this morning.........
I did use modeling clay to determine the height of the pick-up tube. It's about 5/16 inch off the bottom.
I think the fact that the oil system was totally dry was a contributing factor. The old oil filter was so dry when I pulled it out of the canister that it left no residual oil on my fingers.
It was really more like 6.5 quarts of oil that I dumped in (spilt about 1/2 qt
). You have to remember, the oil pan is modified and may require more oil to bring the level up.Well, I'm getting a late start this morning.........
AndyBees
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 27, 2003
- Location
- Southeast Kentucky
- TDI
- Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Update
Okay, this morning, I cleaned in the garage hoping to lift my spirits a little. The clutter and "stuff" from all the work had accumulated to the point I couldn't stand it!
Anyway, this afternoon/evening, I continued to address things that needed attention....... rear brake hoses, clutch slave hose at the slave, fabricating the shield behind the left rear wheel to protect the bottom of the InterCooler, repaired and installed the reverse switch on the tranny (JB Weld, and it works according to my multi-meter), etc.
I also set-up a canister to fuel the engine.......sort of like doing a diesel purge. I bled the IP on the return end. Maybe when morning comes, diesel fuel will have penetrated any and all parts of the IP that's dry from 5 years of sitting (the lines did have fuel in them, thanks Jimbote for plugging them).
So, I may attempt to start the engine tomorrow.......about 4 days behind my anticiapted date to do so!
I still need to: EDIT
1. Install the fuel tank .........finshed, including those testy fuel and vent lines
2. Install the gauge pod (been working on that....modding an off the shelf pod)...... still working this one
3. Complete the IC shield behind the left rear wheel ........ near finished
4. Install rear tail light assemblies (with the correct bulbs..very important)
5. Install the upper and lower front grilles
6. Install the PINK coolant ........done
7. Install the cover for the AC lines inside the van ......... finished
8. Charge the AC ..........almost ready to do
9. Front-end alignment .... probably by 8/9/12
10. Tweak the engine cover area to be more user friendly ........getting there
11.......whatever else that may jump up in my face!
Okay, this morning, I cleaned in the garage hoping to lift my spirits a little
. The clutter and "stuff" from all the work had accumulated to the point I couldn't stand it!Anyway, this afternoon/evening, I continued to address things that needed attention....... rear brake hoses, clutch slave hose at the slave, fabricating the shield behind the left rear wheel to protect the bottom of the InterCooler, repaired and installed the reverse switch on the tranny (JB Weld, and it works according to my multi-meter
), etc.I also set-up a canister to fuel the engine.......sort of like doing a diesel purge. I bled the IP on the return end. Maybe when morning comes, diesel fuel will have penetrated any and all parts of the IP that's dry from 5 years of sitting (the lines did have fuel in them, thanks Jimbote for plugging them).
So, I may attempt to start the engine tomorrow.......about 4 days behind my anticiapted date to do so!
I still need to: EDIT
1. Install the fuel tank .........finshed, including those testy fuel and vent lines
2. Install the gauge pod (been working on that....modding an off the shelf pod)...... still working this one
3. Complete the IC shield behind the left rear wheel ........ near finished
4. Install rear tail light assemblies (with the correct bulbs..very important)
5. Install the upper and lower front grilles
6. Install the PINK coolant ........done
7. Install the cover for the AC lines inside the van ......... finished
8. Charge the AC ..........almost ready to do
9. Front-end alignment .... probably by 8/9/12
10. Tweak the engine cover area to be more user friendly
........getting there11.......whatever else that may jump up in my face!
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AndyBees
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 27, 2003
- Location
- Southeast Kentucky
- TDI
- Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Update
Okay, what we've all been waiting for............ we (my brother and I) fired it up at about 10:15 tonight.
We spent most of the afternoon dealing with air in the fuel injection system..... made a 'ell of a diesel mess! Also, for some strange reason the funky looking banjo fitting on the return fuel line had a burr that scored the copper sealing ring. When I reversed the banjo fitting for my application, the copper sealing ring got re-positioned....the burr scored sealing ring caused a bad fuel leak. Also, I learned that the little return fuel line from the injectors needs to go to a separate container and the small nipple off the banjo fitting needs a hose attached to it that goes to the same container. Otherwise, when you break injector line nuts for bleeding you will get feed-back from the return fuel line. Allowing the return fuel to go to the separate container resulted in things going much smoother with far less diesel fuel spillage!.......dang, my garage stinks!
Anyway, we did a video of the "official" start-up!
Someone please tell me how to post it. It is an MP4 HD file about 65 seconds long.
Sorry, but we were excited about getting it started and only did a video and not regular shots!
Okay, what we've all been waiting for............ we (my brother and I) fired it up at about 10:15 tonight.
We spent most of the afternoon dealing with air in the fuel injection system..... made a 'ell of a diesel mess! Also, for some strange reason the funky looking banjo fitting on the return fuel line had a burr that scored the copper sealing ring. When I reversed the banjo fitting for my application, the copper sealing ring got re-positioned....the burr scored sealing ring caused a bad fuel leak. Also, I learned that the little return fuel line from the injectors needs to go to a separate container and the small nipple off the banjo fitting needs a hose attached to it that goes to the same container. Otherwise, when you break injector line nuts for bleeding you will get feed-back from the return fuel line. Allowing the return fuel to go to the separate container resulted in things going much smoother with far less diesel fuel spillage!.......dang, my garage stinks!
Anyway, we did a video of the "official" start-up!
Someone please tell me how to post it. It is an MP4 HD file about 65 seconds long.
Sorry, but we were excited about getting it started and only did a video and not regular shots!
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jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
Congratulations on getting it going!!.......do you have a photobucket or a youtube account?....there are many others sites that can host video but those two I'm familiar with.....
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DanG144
Top Post Dawg
I'll bet this milestone event had you grinning from ear to ear. I admire the perseverance and attention to detail that went into this job.
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
This is a huge factor in day to day mental health when running a shop. HUGE FACTOR!
Big high five, great build. Love it!
AndyBees
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 27, 2003
- Location
- Southeast Kentucky
- TDI
- Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Comments
I now realize the importance of that assumption. Down thru the years, when I'd dropped by uncle's shop, I noticed he always spent about 15 to 20 minutes at the end of each day tiddying up the place! He primarily worked by himself except an 11 year span with two employees.
Yes, Dan this was definitely a milestone that had me grinning like an possum eating sawbriers (Appalachian lore)...........
Only Jimbote knows this ........and now all those following this Thread are being told....>>> Back in the spring (long story short), I accidently let a "hot" (12 volt) wire drag across the top of the ECU.........Wow, for an instant sparks were flying!.......... Obviously, the electrical engineers designed the ECU to take a beating! A few weeks ago, when I first connected VAG COM to the OBD port, I held my breath until all systems appeared okay. Starting the engine last night was the final proof that the ECU survived my stupidity!
Well, now the heat is on to finish-up this project and get it out of the garage for some test miles........... remember, I don't have a clue how the tranny is going to perform (my rebuild, remember).
I now realize the importance of that assumption. Down thru the years, when I'd dropped by uncle's shop, I noticed he always spent about 15 to 20 minutes at the end of each day tiddying up the place! He primarily worked by himself except an 11 year span with two employees.
Yes, Dan this was definitely a milestone that had me grinning like an possum eating sawbriers (Appalachian lore)...........
Only Jimbote knows this ........and now all those following this Thread are being told....>>> Back in the spring (long story short), I accidently let a "hot" (12 volt) wire drag across the top of the ECU.........Wow, for an instant sparks were flying!.......... Obviously, the electrical engineers designed the ECU to take a beating! A few weeks ago, when I first connected VAG COM to the OBD port, I held my breath until all systems appeared okay. Starting the engine last night was the final proof that the ECU survived my stupidity!
Well, now the heat is on to finish-up this project and get it out of the garage for some test miles........... remember, I don't have a clue how the tranny is going to perform (my rebuild, remember).
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runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Andy, I sent you a pm wrt J59, T14a/10, and T121/88
cumminsfromthecold
Veteran Member
Nice work Andy. I think a diesel mess is part of the first start up. I had a great one, too, and a power steering fluid mess for dessert.
I had about 50% biodiesel dribbling everywhere, I think.Try a youtube.com account. It will walk you through how to upload a video. Looking forward to it!
AndyBees
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 27, 2003
- Location
- Southeast Kentucky
- TDI
- Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Update
jjordan11, it seems like years ago when we met there at the VW Dealer in Twin Falls, ID (did I get that right?) back in September of '10. At the time, I never had a clue it would take so long to get my project to this point.
Well, today, besides firing up the engine a time or two (just for kicks), I did replace the rear brake hoses, hose to the clutch slave (flushed and bled that system too) and installed the fuel tank..........all new grommets, hoses, etc. Darn, third time is supposed to be charmed. I installed and removed that tank 4 times.. I kept having trouble with the vent pipe on the driver's side! .......finally got it right!
For those who do not know, a Vanagon fuel tank has five vent holes. Three of the holes require the use of rubber gromments and the other two are small copper pipes.... sort of like holding up an Octopus and trying to bolt it to the bottom of the vehicle!
Right now, I'm enjoying a C Mist! I plan to go back to the garage a little later to snap a few pics and maybe post them late tonight.
Although the project is winding down, I still have a ways to go! I would love to be on the road by next Friday.....
jjordan11, it seems like years ago when we met there at the VW Dealer in Twin Falls, ID (did I get that right?) back in September of '10. At the time, I never had a clue it would take so long to get my project to this point.
Well, today, besides firing up the engine a time or two (just for kicks
), I did replace the rear brake hoses, hose to the clutch slave (flushed and bled that system too) and installed the fuel tank..........all new grommets, hoses, etc. Darn, third time is supposed to be charmed. I installed and removed that tank 4 times.. I kept having trouble with the vent pipe on the driver's side! .......finally got it right! For those who do not know, a Vanagon fuel tank has five vent holes. Three of the holes require the use of rubber gromments and the other two are small copper pipes.... sort of like holding up an Octopus and trying to bolt it to the bottom of the vehicle!
Right now, I'm enjoying a C Mist! I plan to go back to the garage a little later to snap a few pics and maybe post them late tonight.
Although the project is winding down, I still have a ways to go! I would love to be on the road by next Friday.....
AndyBees
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 27, 2003
- Location
- Southeast Kentucky
- TDI
- Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Update
Well, I'm surprised that no one ask about the E-Vac Scavenger! .......... Unfortunely, it does not work as installed(if you are lost, go back to page 38, Posts 569 & 570 to see). At idle, there was back-pressure as opposed to vacuum! I did not test it at a higher RPM ...... really no need to do that!
As some indicated, locating the venturi pre-CAT apparently was a mistake due to back pressure which negated the desired results of pulling a slight vacuum to evacuate the blow-by from top of the engine at the CCV puck!
So, I have prepared to locate the venturi post-CAT. I will be taking everything to the welder in the morning!
Another piece of info, the 94R battery will not fit in the Vanagon battery case. However, the next best thing, which is smaller in size, will fit and seems to start the engine just fine. Right now, I am using a battery that was put in service 7/07.... a little over five years ago! So, a new one should be just fine!
Well, I'm surprised that no one ask about the E-Vac Scavenger! .......... Unfortunely, it does not work as installed
(if you are lost, go back to page 38, Posts 569 & 570 to see). At idle, there was back-pressure as opposed to vacuum! I did not test it at a higher RPM ...... really no need to do that!As some indicated, locating the venturi pre-CAT apparently was a mistake due to back pressure which negated the desired results of pulling a slight vacuum to evacuate the blow-by from top of the engine at the CCV puck!
So, I have prepared to locate the venturi post-CAT. I will be taking everything to the welder in the morning!
Another piece of info, the 94R battery will not fit in the Vanagon battery case. However, the next best thing, which is smaller in size, will fit and seems to start the engine just fine. Right now, I am using a battery that was put in service 7/07.... a little over five years ago! So, a new one should be just fine!
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AndyBees
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 27, 2003
- Location
- Southeast Kentucky
- TDI
- Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Update
Alright!........... High-5 for sure! The E-Vac Scavenger now pulls a nice vacuum! (smiling face here) As I stated in the last update (ate crow), locating the device pre-CAT caused back pressure as opposed to a vacuum. Now, with the engine at idle, there is a very distinct pulsating vacuum that will hold my spit wet finger on the end of the nipple of the CCV puck........that's encouraging!..........EDIT: If you are lost concerning this Update, go back to Post #569 which shows when I first installed the E-Vac Scavanger......
So, today after picking up everything from my welder, I installed the hose (extremely modified, see pics) and the E-Vac unit. I was so pleasantly satisfied that I just stood there for a moment and admired the smell of diesel burning.............(smiling face here!)
Anyway, here are some pics (Comments are at the top of each photo)
But, first this pic provides "some" proof that I've had the engine started (thanks brother for the help, it definitely would have been a challenge without you). Maybe we will get that video up and running...
Yep, that's a *eff peanut butter container. Nope, diesel fuel will not deterioate it. That plastic jar has been sitting on a shelf in my garage almost a year with diesel fuel in it......... just testing Also, the fittings are secured with JB Weld....good stuff!
This is side shot showing the STAINLESS BRAIDED hose..... Yep, those are El-cheapo hose clamps with cute little wing tightners on them (choice of yellow, blue, red or black...or leave 'em off). (More about how I did it below)
This is another angle of the stainless braided hose "connected" to the OE CCV puck
This is an excellent shot showing the stainless braided hose
Below, you can see the hose as it passes between the Intake and Valve cover just above the engine mount bracket and adjacent to the TB cover. Also, there on the left is the 'modified' EGR with the Turbo boost connection.
The pic below is a little farther down stream as it rounds at the end of the engine at the TB cover...
In the pic below, you can see the stainless braided hose as it passes across the back of the engine. The red thingy you see there is my creeper on the floor under the Van.
Below, in this pic, you can see where the stainless braided hose is coupled with the black braided hose heading down to the E-Vac Scavenger!
Here, (below) you can see the E-Vac Scavenger. The CAT is to the right and the short 12 inch glas-pak muffler is to the left........
Below is just a close-up of the E-Vac and where it is located
Okay, as for how I "connected" the Stainless Braided hose to the OE CVV puck ........ my secret! It is there to stay, but can be removed! Sure, no fancy clamps, but, gees, time is running out for me!......maybe some fancy stuff later!
Oh, I almost forgot to say, it was a PITA cutting the welded bung off the exhaust pipe using the old fashion hacksaw!
Alright!........... High-5 for sure! The E-Vac Scavenger now pulls a nice vacuum! (smiling face here) As I stated in the last update (ate crow), locating the device pre-CAT caused back pressure as opposed to a vacuum. Now, with the engine at idle, there is a very distinct pulsating vacuum that will hold my spit wet finger on the end of the nipple of the CCV puck........that's encouraging!..........EDIT: If you are lost concerning this Update, go back to Post #569 which shows when I first installed the E-Vac Scavanger......
So, today after picking up everything from my welder, I installed the hose (extremely modified, see pics) and the E-Vac unit. I was so pleasantly satisfied that I just stood there for a moment and admired the smell of diesel burning.............(smiling face here!)
Anyway, here are some pics (Comments are at the top of each photo)
But, first this pic provides "some" proof that I've had the engine started (thanks brother for the help, it definitely would have been a challenge without you). Maybe we will get that video up and running...
Yep, that's a *eff peanut butter container. Nope, diesel fuel will not deterioate it. That plastic jar has been sitting on a shelf in my garage almost a year with diesel fuel in it......... just testing Also, the fittings are secured with JB Weld....good stuff!
This is side shot showing the STAINLESS BRAIDED hose..... Yep, those are El-cheapo hose clamps with cute little wing tightners on them (choice of yellow, blue, red or black...or leave 'em off). (More about how I did it below)
This is another angle of the stainless braided hose "connected" to the OE CCV puck
This is an excellent shot showing the stainless braided hose
Below, you can see the hose as it passes between the Intake and Valve cover just above the engine mount bracket and adjacent to the TB cover. Also, there on the left is the 'modified' EGR with the Turbo boost connection.
The pic below is a little farther down stream as it rounds at the end of the engine at the TB cover...
In the pic below, you can see the stainless braided hose as it passes across the back of the engine. The red thingy you see there is my creeper on the floor under the Van.
Below, in this pic, you can see where the stainless braided hose is coupled with the black braided hose heading down to the E-Vac Scavenger!
Here, (below) you can see the E-Vac Scavenger. The CAT is to the right and the short 12 inch glas-pak muffler is to the left........
Below is just a close-up of the E-Vac and where it is located
Okay, as for how I "connected" the Stainless Braided hose to the OE CVV puck ........ my secret! It is there to stay, but can be removed! Sure, no fancy clamps, but, gees, time is running out for me!......maybe some fancy stuff later!
Oh, I almost forgot to say, it was a PITA cutting the welded bung off the exhaust pipe using the old fashion hacksaw!
Last edited:
AndyBees
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 27, 2003
- Location
- Southeast Kentucky
- TDI
- Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Update
Well, I suppose it is time for an update.
I really hate to report this, but I've pretty much been straight forward about my progress and set backs.
Anyway, as for progress, the last couple of days I have worked on the wiring for the gauges and been doing a mod on an aftermarket three-gauge pod for the dash.
So, Tuesday night, I went ahead and dumped in 5 gallons of diesel fuel,,,,,,,,,,,, Wow! The tank leaked.........oh my gosh, such a disappointment. If you saw all the work I did as layed out in earlier posts, you can imagine my feelings!
Well, I drained the fuel, took the tank off and removed the round center piece to see what went wrong. The leak was on one side involving three screws. Apparently I did not put JB Weld on these screws or in their holes.
Anyway, I cleaned the tank thoroughly and re-done everything. I also used a putty by JB Weld to provide a layer of sealing on the back side of the aluminum ring supports inside the tank (see earlier posts for those photos, beginning on page 8, post 107). Tomorrow, I plan to dump in some Red Kote for additional sealing in the bottom area where the leak was located. The additional Red Kote for the center section is something I did not do the first time. Otherwise, I doubt if there would have been a leak......
Well, this has set me back at least a day and a half! Disappointment, yes! But, better now than later!
Just for kicks and a dose of spiritual uplifting, I started the engine again tonight and let it idle for a few seconds,,,,,,,,
Tomorrow, afternoon when the Red Kote has cured, I plan to re-install the fuel tank. I'll wait until Friday more to dump in fuel......... I do feel confident this time around will have better results!
Well, I suppose it is time for an update.
I really hate to report this, but I've pretty much been straight forward about my progress and set backs.
Anyway, as for progress, the last couple of days I have worked on the wiring for the gauges and been doing a mod on an aftermarket three-gauge pod for the dash.
So, Tuesday night, I went ahead and dumped in 5 gallons of diesel fuel,,,,,,,,,,,, Wow! The tank leaked.........oh my gosh
, such a disappointment. If you saw all the work I did as layed out in earlier posts, you can imagine my feelings!Well, I drained the fuel, took the tank off and removed the round center piece to see what went wrong. The leak was on one side involving three screws. Apparently I did not put JB Weld on these screws or in their holes.
Anyway, I cleaned the tank thoroughly and re-done everything. I also used a putty by JB Weld to provide a layer of sealing on the back side of the aluminum ring supports inside the tank (see earlier posts for those photos, beginning on page 8, post 107). Tomorrow, I plan to dump in some Red Kote for additional sealing in the bottom area where the leak was located. The additional Red Kote for the center section is something I did not do the first time. Otherwise, I doubt if there would have been a leak......
Well, this has set me back at least a day and a half! Disappointment, yes! But, better now than later!
Just for kicks and a dose of spiritual uplifting, I started the engine again tonight and let it idle for a few seconds,,,,,,,,
Tomorrow, afternoon when the Red Kote has cured, I plan to re-install the fuel tank. I'll wait until Friday more to dump in fuel......... I do feel confident this time around will have better results!
AndyBees
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 27, 2003
- Location
- Southeast Kentucky
- TDI
- Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Update
Coating the bottom of the fuel tank with Red Kote went well this morning. I prepared a small flexible hose with funnel as an aide in placing the mix where I wanted it (Although it is a challenge, there are enough holes to provide light to see inside, especially using a drop light).
I say "mix" because I cut the Red Kote with Acetone by about 40%, which is double what that is normally done when applying multiple thin coats as opposed to one heavy coat. The thinner mix should provide good penetration for better sealing. Since I was working with the bottom of the tank, I only applied small amounts and swished the tank back and forth to cover the area I had been working with as well as the rest of the bottom. I used a hair dryer to speed drying time between coats. Also, I have let a small fan blow on the fuel fill-hole all day and tonight as well. It should be cured by morning!
I continued to finish-up with the wiring for the gauge pods (some power is from the instrument hot source and some is off the ignition). Hopefully, I have screwed down the cluster for the last time...... Also, I completed the Intercooler fan circuit and mounted the over-ride switch on the dash. This switch allows for manual activation of the fan thru a relay!
Painters.......... comments welcome on this one
In modifying the three gauge pod to have an acceptable angle on top of the dash (basically centered in the dash), painting it was a must. Here's my problem, the darn paint has stayed tacky for over two days! I went ahead and worked with it today. Of course, it is a total ugly disaster from an appearance stand point! Although my garage is air conditioned, I took the pod outside in the heat and high humidity to paint it.......is that why the paint won't dry? What would be the best thing to do? Strip the paint and start from scratch?
Since I am off schedule by several days, we obviously have to alter our travel plans....which will ultimately lead us to Ypsilanti on 12/31!
Coating the bottom of the fuel tank with Red Kote went well this morning. I prepared a small flexible hose with funnel as an aide in placing the mix where I wanted it (Although it is a challenge, there are enough holes to provide light to see inside, especially using a drop light).
I say "mix" because I cut the Red Kote with Acetone by about 40%, which is double what that is normally done when applying multiple thin coats as opposed to one heavy coat. The thinner mix should provide good penetration for better sealing. Since I was working with the bottom of the tank, I only applied small amounts and swished the tank back and forth to cover the area I had been working with as well as the rest of the bottom. I used a hair dryer to speed drying time between coats. Also, I have let a small fan blow on the fuel fill-hole all day and tonight as well. It should be cured by morning!
I continued to finish-up with the wiring for the gauge pods (some power is from the instrument hot source and some is off the ignition). Hopefully, I have screwed down the cluster for the last time......
Also, I completed the Intercooler fan circuit and mounted the over-ride switch on the dash. This switch allows for manual activation of the fan thru a relay!Painters.......... comments welcome on this one
In modifying the three gauge pod to have an acceptable angle on top of the dash (basically centered in the dash), painting it was a must. Here's my problem, the darn paint has stayed tacky for over two days! I went ahead and worked with it today. Of course, it is a total ugly disaster from an appearance stand point! Although my garage is air conditioned, I took the pod outside in the heat and high humidity to paint it.......is that why the paint won't dry? What would be the best thing to do? Strip the paint and start from scratch?
Since I am off schedule by several days, we obviously have to alter our travel plans....which will ultimately lead us to Ypsilanti on 12/31!
rackaracka
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2001
- Location
- Monroe, NJ
Andy, is the pod plastic, polystyrene, foam, fiberglass? You need to make sure you use a primer / sealer or adhesion promoter that is compatible with your material. Then you need to apply a really light (dust coat) for starters and let it flash off. If you put a second coat of paint on before the first layer is dry, it will be mushy and probably wont dry - will hold your fingerprints... Unfortunately, you may have to use a solvent and clean / sand it back down. I try to avoid painting when it is > 75% humidity - because you cannot control the speed of the reducer that is in a rattle can. You can paint in the rain and do a good job - but you have to use really light coats and allow long dry times between coats.