ALH TDI engine transplant into '84 Vanagon

[narendra.k]

Here are the pics of the lid.

hook for the lid.

Underside of the altered box. Brakets used are from small car hood.(above)

Please count the ribs from the left for cutting the hole on the lid.(above)

Note the measurements on the tape for reference.

Hook on the right.

 

[markward]

Cover

Andy, looks like good progress. My CCV blows out the bottom of the van through a peice of long hose. Not the original plan though. I ran into a similar problem with sizing. I purchased the Mann CCV filter housing, but the tubes were all different sizes, so to get out on vacation, I just put a long peice of heater hose on the VC. Not ideal, but many miles later still works fine.

I am only running vacumn to my N75 valve. I deleted the shutoff valve and the EGR valve. Even with the adaption set way up on the EGR, it will still trip a code every now and then. As suggested all the valves are there and connected to the ECU. The N75 valve should be tied into the air filter or a seperate filter. Mine originally got dirt in it. I added a fuel filter until I installed the Donaldson Air Filter.

Below is version one of my engine modification. When I changed to the later transmission, the engine belt side tilted up and I had to cut a larger hole and make a bigger cover. The new cover is insulated with dynamat on both sides. The wood deck has proved to be too much trouble, my wife and I are brainstorming on how to modify the rear cushion to fit back in. Once we come up with a solution, I will post some pictures to the Samba. I have seen a couple people have added some bent square stock and actually raised the entire deck opening. The cover attaches to the square stock with original latches and hinges. The camper does not have the room without cutting the rear cabinet. You would not have the problem. mark
Version 1

Wood deck with rubber mat to level the area.

 

[AndyBees]

Update

Okay, as usual, the last couple of days dictated to me what would happen. Although I did get some work done on the project, it was not what I had planned.

I still haven't installed the oil pan nor did I get up with the welder for the engine cover until today.

So, here are pics of a few things that I have addressed in the last couple of days. (comments at top of each photo)

The first four photos relate to the AC system. It is significant because it will be "driven" by the OE AC compressor as come on the ALH engine. Otherwise, I would not bother to post pics.

The pic below is a shot of the AC manifold gauge showing the "almost" 30 inches of vacuum. The vacuum has held at that point for over 40 hours.

The next three pics show the overhead AC system after it was re-installed....nice and clean, inside and out. Also, you can see the map reading overhead light. As I stated in a previous post, it was installed by one of the previous owner's of the vehicle. I repaired it, replaced the wires and securely remounted it.

These next pics show the work I finished on the front suspension, as well as the stainless brake hoses and one shot of the AC Dryer.

The pic below shows the left side front stainless braided brake hose and AC dryer

The pic below is of the right front stainless braided brake hose

In the pic below, you can see I had to Improvise in order to get the nut on the bottom of the sway bar stablizer after installing new bushings (it worked)!

This is a close-up of the bushings and you can see the bottom part of my contraption to pull the stablizer arm down into the top bushing..

In the next post, I'll add pics of the Fuel Line issues I had to address at the Injection Pump.

 

[AndyBees]

Continued update

The following pics pertain to the fuel line from the filter to the Injection Pump.

The fitting in the center is OE on the ALH Injection Pump where the "IN" fuel line is connected.......notice it is straight (no good in my project). The fitting (banjo style) on the left is from an early MK1 VW diesel fuel filter bracket. The fitting (banjo style) on the right is from a VW CIS gasser system (Constant Injection System). That fitting will screw into the ALH IP and works great. However, the issue is with the size of the barbed nipple. Notice it is smaller than the MK1 fitting on the extreme left.

The pic below provides a better understanding of the differences in the barbed nipples and their relative sizes.

To make it work (banjo fitting from the CIS system), I heated the nipple and forced on a plastic hard line (semi-flexible). It melted right in place. I then cut off the excess. The added piece of hard plastic line increased the size of the nipple to fit my "custom" fuel line.

This is a pic of the line at the IP. You will notice that the fuel line is a two piece unit made from a short piece of 5/16" fuel line and a longer piece of larger high pressure fuel injection line from a gasser engine (junk yard find).

In the pic below, you can see the two piece line a little better. Since the high pressure fuel injection line is about 3/8" ID, I had to modify the banjo fitting at the fuel filter in the same manner as the one at the IP, even though the nipple is larger. I feel quite certain there will be no leaks ..........but, there is not a "clear" section to see if bubbles will be present or not. Maybe I can add a clear in-line filter later.... Also, notice that there is no clamp on the short piece of 5/16" line where it joins the larger high pressure line. The high pressure line has a long stainless steel section that was very very difficult to insert into the 5/16" line. In fact, it is inserted a little over an inch and I could not pull it off!

I had originally intended to "snake" a longer line sort of straight to the forward firewall then go right along the wall over to fuel filter. However, I think a straight shot from the filter to the IP will reduce the amount of heat absorption due to a shorter run. Of course, this is something that can always be addressed later if it doesn't appear to work out as hoped.

I do plan to install the oil pan tomorrow! ..........maybe even add oil!

Actually, I hope to start the engine by the weekend......... I may set-up fuel lines like doing a diesel purge!

 

[mlemorie]

Looks good! Just for my own curiousity, where does that overhead AC unit drain to? If you ever think about selling this thing let me know lol

 

[AndyBees]

AC drain system

Looks good! Just for my own curiousity, where does that overhead AC unit drain to? If you ever think about selling this thing let me know lol

Take a look at the pics in post #543 above. In the third photo down, on the back side you can see a small white drain pipe. It has to be "threaded" into a hole in the side of the van and pushed down into the cavity and out the bottom just behind the front wheel ...........there is a drain on the other side as well.

I've received several PMs about selling the Van.

 

[whitedog]

Okay, stirring late this morning............

Whitedog, I need to call Brian this morning, I'll mention you to him!

Woof?

 

[mlemorie]

Im sure a lot of people are interested in it, its a great build! There was a vanagon for sale around here a while ago that I wanted to pick up, I just didnt have anywhere to put it. I want to hold out for a syncro though. Is this going to make the run to tdifest? Id love to see it in person

 

[AndyBees]

The later in August we depart heading north to Alaska, in the Vanagon, the more likely we will swing by the TDI fest on the return trip home.

Right now, we hope to be on the road by August 6th .....less than two weeks away!

Back to the garage!

 

[AndyBees]

Friday morning Update

Although yesterday was a short day as far as time on the project, the oil pan is on......glued and screwed!

I also modified the cap to the oil filler tube to accommodate the ALH dip-stick tube and dip-stick. This will allow checking oil thru the license plate hole at the rear of the Van. I plan to dump in 4 qts of oil and begin "checking" the level as I add another quart. Then, I will be able to "mark" the modified ALH dip-stick to establish the full position. Doing this dip-stick set-up is nothing new. I think Mark (rsxsr) has his set-up the same way. (I'll post pics later).

Due to errands, today will be another short day! I'll post more pics tonight.

 

[AndyBees]

Friday night Update

Okay, here are a few more pics as I promised. (Comments are at the top of each pic.)

The following pics show the oil fill tube from the oil pan to the top of the customized cap at the license plate door.

Below is a shot of the oil fill tube where it is bolted to the oil pan. As posted previously, the tube is from a 2.0 Vanagon Air-cooled engine.......customized to fit my application.

Below is a shot from another angle. Notice that the clearance for the exhaust and Serp belt is pretty much balanced....

In the pic below, you are looking up at the front side of the license plate door.

In the pic below, you can see the customized cap of the oil fill tube. I bored a hole in it to accommodate the "cut-off" TDI dip-stick tube .......JB Weld and friction fit holds it in place. There is a flat rubber seal for the cap. Also, I have cut the dip-stick to a shorter length...... it may need additional trimming.

And, another angle of the Dip-stick. That's the Intake piping above the dip-stick....the Intake are travels right-to-left to the Turbo.

Next are some random shots of the engine top-side.

The engine is basically finished on top. I need to connect the electricals to the add-on oil pressure sensor (had to order a new sensor), connect the add-on temp sensor and tiddy up the Intake piping and install the plexi-glass shield cover over the InterCooler area............ and, install the E-Vac Scavenger Kit for the CCV system.

The pic below is of the left side of the engine ....... you can see that the CCV system is not finished. I hope to address that next.

This angle is of the right side of the engine......... center-top, you can see where the "return" fuel line goes thru the firewall using the old OE set-up (nipple on each side). I know that some of the Vanagon Gurus eliminate that fitting....... this one was cleaned and inspected. I believe it will be just fine. Also, notice that the power steering reservoir is just that and nothing else.....a line goes in and one out back to the pump .....I will install PS lines and R&P up front later!

This is another angle of the right side of the engine bay.

The pic below is another angle of the left side of the engine. Notice that the clamp is not on the Intake pipe .........and, yeah, I haven't eliminated the EGR diaphram pipe yet.

As I mentioned above.........the E-Vac Scavenger system needs to be installed. I am amazed by the folks at verociousmotorsports.com. They took my screwed-up order and straightened it out and rushed it to me... Brian was really great with his help!

So, my goal is to start the engine on Monday or Tuesday!

 

[purplepeopleeater]

Looking good, I hope my install comes together as well as yours has!

 

[greengeeker]

As I mentioned above.........the E-Vac Scavenger system needs to be installed. I am amazed by the folks at verociousmotorsports.com. They took my screwed-up order and straightened it out and rushed it to me... Brian was really great with his help!

I look forward to more details on this system.

 

[narendra.k]

One small observation , regarding the tail pipe placing it side, Will it not affect the car next to you in traffic.
What kind of air filter are you using. Is it OE from the donner.

 

[AndyBees]

Comments

One small observation , regarding the tail pipe placing it side, Will it not affect the car next to you in traffic.
What kind of air filter are you using. Is it OE from the donner.

Since I am running a CAT, traffic next to me, in some instances, may receive cleaner air otherwise (depending on the locale)... Actually, I may added an exhaust tip that points to the rear, which would be similar to OE exhaust for the Vanagon.

Air filter system
Go back to page 22, post 317, to see the pics and comments about the air filter system.......... primarily parts picked up here and there to put together an idea and concept!

I'm sure you have noticed, the engine compartment is practically void of pipes and tubes relating to the air intake system ........ although I have never said so, it was my goal to devise a system that didn't take up space nor obstruct visibility or access to other engine components!

When it is finished, practically all components will be readily accessible for service and inspection!

Lunch is over....back to the garage!

 

[jackbombay]

I'mnot sure how the pop top is treating you, but if you'd like to make the top super easy to lift and very friendly on the way down (it will stay up a few inches by itself while you pull the tent in) I sell a kit that does just that

http://poptopshocks.blogspot.com/

 

[jjordan11]

Your shocks are a nice addition for a Westfalia, but Andy's van isn't a camper.

 

[jackbombay]

What?!?! All this work into a tin top? What a waste! ;-)

I had just assumed that it was a camper as he will be trekking to AK in it.

And it is still the best TDI swap I have read about

 

[AndyBees]

Non-Westy

What?!?! All this work into a tin top? What a waste! ;-)

I had just assumed that it was a camper as he will be trekking to AK in it.

And it is still the best TDI swap I have read about

2002 ALH TDI engine transplant into an '84 Vanagon, non-Westy!

That's a "cut and paste" from Post #1, 3/20/10

I did consider doing a full Westy or a weekender. In fact, at one point early on in the project I almost purchased a nice Westy. However, we've done just fine on the previous 7 trips to Alaska in a non-Westy...... the only thing we do different is sleep in a Tent (or a motel if the circumstances dictate). Most of the folks we've seen at campgrounds in the Westy's always cook on the picnic tables like we do, etc.

My next project may be a Westy. If I can find a South African Bell Housing for my VW Quantum 2.2 5-cylinder gasser, it will dropped in a Westy!

EDIT to add these pics of my first VW Vanagon on three of 7 trips to Alaska over a 17 year span. ......... bushing it without a Westy, not bad!

All comments are at the top of each photo

This pic is at the Arctic Circle on the Dempster Highway in Yukon, Canada in 1993, 2nd trip to Alaska

This pic is at the Arctic Circle on the Dempster Highway in Yukon, Canada in 1997, 4th trip to Alaska

This pic is at the Arctic Circle on the Dempster Highway in Yukon, Canada in 2001, 6th trip to Alaska.......yeah, I looked a little tired...

This pic is at the Tombstone Campground on the southern end of the Dempster Highway in Yukon, Canada, 2001. The small tent was my Dad's tent (1925 - 2012) .....he enjoyed the two trips we took him north!

 

[AndyBees]

Sunday night Update

This afternoon/evening I did a few things to the project.

- Applied silicone sealer around and over the boundle of wires going thru the wall under the back seat.
- Installed the windshield washer reservoir ....I had to improvise as I worked with the piping due to the use of a pump from a Jetta tank (posted previously)
- Re-installed the shift linkage and adjusted
- Began the process of modifiying the three-gauge pod to fit the Vanagon dash
- Broke loose the brake fluid bleeding fittings on the front calipers ......been spraying on penetrating oil daily for a week!
- Worked on the skid pan (yep, it will have a skid pan which will serve as the cross piece from the bottom of each carrier bar)......have some ideas that I want to try!
EDIT:
- Also removed the Cluster to "tighten" it in the Vanagon cluster housing as well as added some sealer for dust proofing.
- Repaired the right park brake cable at the trailing swing arm and installed a new retaining clamp.

That's about it for today.

Tomorrow will be a short day due to errands, etc. However, I hope to add Tranny Oil and Engine Oil and crank over the engine to pump-up the oil! I'm just curious if pouring oil into the filter housing would prime the oil pump..........anybody have thoughts on this?

Engine start is just around the corner!

 

[greengeeker]

I'm not certtain Andy but there are a number of check valves preventing oil from draining back into the system so I doubt you'd be doing anything. I would just unplug your IP and crank it over a few times to prime the entire system.

 

[JFettig]

Pouring oil into the filter housing drains directly to the crank case unless the cover is on, in that case there is a check valve that prevents it from going back into the oil pump.

You can see the check valve on the left

 

[jimbote]

on every oil change I refill the crankcase through the filter housing....it's like a built in funnel!!....great build Andy!! ...I enjoy seeing your progress, and I'm really looking forward to hearing that motor run for the first time in five years!!

 

[markward]

Andy, If you are concerned about the engine getting oil pressure, it is a little more work, but remove either the injectors or glow plugs. This will ease off the cylinder pressure letting the engine spin freely without a load while it gets pressure. I know, that is a lot of work.

Another option would be to adapt an exterminator pump bottle to the oil pressure switch outlet and fill the engine through the fitting. I have not done this, but should work. You might only need to pressure feed in 1 qt. This will ensure the galleys and the pump have oil on them. mark

 

[jimbote]

Andy, If you are concerned about the engine getting oil pressure, it is a little more work, but remove either the injectors or glow plugs. This will ease off the cylinder pressure letting the engine spin freely without a load while it gets pressure. I know, that is a lot of work.

Another option would be to adapt an exterminator pump bottle to the oil pressure switch outlet and fill the engine through the fitting. I have not done this, but should work. You might only need to pressure feed in 1 qt. This will ensure the galleys and the pump have oil on them. mark

Good suggestions although I would go with removing just the glows...much easier and with the same effect....also Andy I would jumper the clutch start safety switch on priming and initial startup to ease the stress on the thrust bearing at least until good oil flow has been established....

 

[whitedog]

I think that you have a manual oil pressure gauge already? If not, that's SOP for me starting an engine that has been sitting or been rebuilt.

 

[AndyBees]

Update

Jimmy, Mark ,,, excellent suggestions. The oil pressure sensor hole was a thought I had as well as the Turbo feed line hole.

I'm leaning toward removing the GPs.

Oddly, my local Walmart no longer carries Rotella T 6 ........ bummer! Otherwise, the oil would be in the engine by now. I have to attend a volunteer fire department board meeting this evening (yeah, I'm a board member). So, while in the area, I'll swing by a parts store to pick up the oil.

Today, I've mostly worked on the Intercooler protection due to it's location behind the left rear wheel. I've decided to go with Plan C....... photos will show that.

I did install the E-Vac Scavenger for handling engine blow-by. I'll post pics later tonight.

Mark, in my VW stuff, I found the two items necessary to use as a torque limiter. Unfortunely, that's a mod that will have to wait!

 

[jimbote]

Hey Andy....was in advance auto parts yesterday and saw they had rotella T6 blue bottle for under $18 gal...I thought this seemed like a very good price

 

[AndyBees]

Update

Okay, here are some pics of the E-Vac Scavenger crankcase gas handling system (blow-by evacuation). The next post will show it all hooked-up!

.........first though, a few shots showing it put together.


EDIT: Although I replaced this exhaust system, I did incorporate the E-vac System in the new exhaust. Edited: 1/5/2020
The final size of the hole is just a little larger and enlongated. (Rat-tail file)

Yeah, I know, that's an old Vice .......Made in the USA and can take a beating

Below, the threaded bung is laying over the hole in the exhaust pipe.

Nice weld job!

Below, looking inside (upsteam) the exhaust pipe......see the E-Vac Scavenger?? .....NO COMMENTS, please........LOL

Below, a close-up .......right in your face look!

 

[AndyBees]

Update continued

Okay, here are some pics of the E-Vac Scavenger crankcase gas handling system (blow-by evacuation) as installed.

The pics will commence at the top of the engine and be staged all the way down to the E-Vac Scavenger on the exhaust pipe at the rear of the engine just before the CAT (remember, the rear of the engine in this case is at the TB end.).

All comments are at the top of each pic

Here, you can see the rather large black pipe coming off the CCV puck. That is tough hose. Although I could not slide completely to the stop, it is on tight and will not need a clamp.....trust me! It took several attempts heating to stretch the hose, as well as sanding down the nipple on the CCV punk before it would finally go on (blister on my thumb)

EDIT: Although I replaced this exhaust system, I did incorporate the E-vac System in the new exhaust. Edited: 1/5/2020

Another shot at the top of the engine. Here, you can see that the hose goes between the Intake and the back of the Valve Cover toward the rear of the engine (TB end of engine).

Here, looking up from the bottom, you can see the hose coming out just above the engine mounting bracket at the TB cover.

In this pic, you can see the hose looking down from the top. It loops across the back of the engine and swoops down toward the exhaust pipe. The bundle of wire is for the left tail light assembly and just happened to be hanging out in view.

This is a similar pic as above looking across toward the right side of the vehicle between the engine and back of the engine bay. The lone dangling wire is for the license plate lights ......just one more thing to do! The Serp belt tensioner is out of focus there on the left. Also, out of focus is a lone green bolt in the hole where the Jetta mount typically goes...as a reminder to me to cover that hole to keep out the mice...

Below is a pic of the E-Vac Scavenger at the exhaust pipe.....the CAT is to the right. (sorry about the focus)

Here, you can see the hose connected to the E-Vac Scavenger. Yes, it is not completely pushed onto the fitting.........that was as far as I could get it! It has three barbs on the nipple. The clamp is not necessary.....very tight fit.

EDIT: Oh, for a bonus, here is an aerial shot of the engine showing the return fuel line .....and the metal coolant filter.
EDIT: (edit on 2/20/2014)... I removed the coolant filter after about 1500 miles..... really a waste of time!

Well, that's about it for today!