TDIJ
Well-known member
I think you should just weld it all up as it sits now... won't have to worry about twist!
97 tdi Jeep TJ
- Thread starter akafred
- Start date
logs
Well-known member
TDikook
Top Post Dawg
WOW, the Tdi looks so small in that engine compartment. I miss my 81 CJ-7
Got the radius arm suspension done, jeep is sitting back on its rubber.
going to pull motor + tranny one more time tomorrow, weld brackets fully, and paint.
also had to modify the tranny mount the drivers side rubber was far to close to the shaft moved it over 1"
going to pull motor + tranny one more time tomorrow, weld brackets fully, and paint.
also had to modify the tranny mount the drivers side rubber was far to close to the shaft moved it over 1"
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yours looks like you may have issue with the engine twisting under torque, mine is solidly mounted to the engine with 8 bolts. yours looks to be rubber mounted to the engine on pedestal type rubber mount.
I like your mounting solution. Very similar to mine.
=Jason-
logs
Well-known member
I did that to help with the vibration. You're gonna see how bad those vibs are pretty soon. It's like a massage chair, all the time
=Jason-
onlyn8v
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2005
- Location
- Long Island NY
Logs, How is your swap coming along?
so you are only running effectively one mount on the front and one on the transmission?
I just don't see how that is going to work, the pendulum mount in the OE configuration is used in conjunction with 2 additional mounts to keep the engine from rotating, you may have an additional side mount, I just cant see it in the picture.
also confused as to why you decided to have two rubber end mounts then a rubber middle mount on the cross bar?
I just don't see how that is going to work, the pendulum mount in the OE configuration is used in conjunction with 2 additional mounts to keep the engine from rotating, you may have an additional side mount, I just cant see it in the picture.
also confused as to why you decided to have two rubber end mounts then a rubber middle mount on the cross bar?
I did that to help with the vibration. You're gonna see how bad those vibs are pretty soon. It's like a massage chair, all the time
=Jason-
TDIJ
Well-known member
I only have poly leaf spring bushings for my engine mounts and t-case mounts and I don't feel like the vibrations are an issue at all. I feel it but it's very subtle considering.
yeah mine are all rubber mounts, I cant see the vibrations being to bad, also I run goodyear mt/r tires, doubt I will feel the engine vibes over the tire vibes/noise.
i would rather have some engine vibes then have my engine flopping around every time i goose it up a hill or through mud patch.
i would rather have some engine vibes then have my engine flopping around every time i goose it up a hill or through mud patch.
greengeeker
Vendor
On the last I'm sure it is solely for double isolation.
Quite a few people have used this mount setup on their swaps with what appears to be fairly good success to date. I'm not saying I support the design - I actually agree you that the design seems lacking without a torque arm. Without one you are relying on the trans mount to act as your means of controlling roll under torque and these mounts typically have a width of maybe 6"? IMO this isn't enough to counteract the torque put into the driveline. Your setup looks good and has increased the lever arm to the location of the original Jeep mount locations almost eliminating the need for the torque arm.
The optimum setup in my mind would look similar to the B5 mounting setup and even utilize the BHW mounts. On Kriesel's Cummins A/YJ swap he went from a standard Jeep mount to this sort of B5 setup and the reduction in vibs was unbelievable. So you get the vibration reduction but you also take care of the torque without the use of a torque arm.
My $.02.
I can guarantee I wont have excessive engine rotation, my front mounts are similar width as the higher HP engine that is getting replaced, also I have added in double tranny mount. this engine really cant torque more than 1/4 inch.
got engine in for what i hope is the final time, also the Jeep power steering lines bolt right into the vw pump so that was handy, got to buy some tube tomorrow for the return lines.
got engine in for what i hope is the final time, also the Jeep power steering lines bolt right into the vw pump so that was handy, got to buy some tube tomorrow for the return lines.
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jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
The setup you have looks good for controlling twist.... At what points are you bolting to the front of the block ? ....I modified the stock vw mount on mine so it utilized 5 bolt holes instead of the stock 3
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logs
Well-known member
Swap is doing well, it drives up and down the road no problem. There's an arm's length list of cosmetic/small details still to finish but moving all over(just got back from Africa, most likely heading to afgan in a month) has really delayed the progress.
I went double isolation due to complaints of vibrations I have read through out this board. There is a torque arm though which helps reduce the torquing but after I actually get some miles on it, I'll see how it goes.
=Jason-
Rockwell
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2009
- Location
- Manchester, NH
- TDI
- 2003 Jetta TDI (R.I.P.), 1.6TD Toyota pickup, 2011 BMW 335d, 1996 Passat TDI
More pics please
TDIJ
Well-known member
Hmm... your coolant lines run completely different than the ahu. Yours seems so much simpler. When is the first test drive?
Why did you run the vw sending unit? is there a lift pump in there? AHU doesn't have one... so I'm trying to figure out why you would use the VW sending unit?
Why did you run the vw sending unit? is there a lift pump in there? AHU doesn't have one... so I'm trying to figure out why you would use the VW sending unit?
didn't want to run the gasser pump as it puts out too much psi, didn't want a regulator just seems crazy to pump the fuel to 50psi then regulate to 4 dumping tons of fuel back into the return, didn't want to buy Cummings pump as its 350$ used 170$ so bought 14$ alh sending unit and hacked onto the stock top tj plate
TDIJ
Well-known member
okay... I'm not running a pump at all..., just pickups in the tank so I was trying to figure it out... I thought you were speaking of gauge sending unit. I would have done the same, or just an inline pump.
N2TOH
Veteran Member
Vanco Hydroboost Brake Conversion
http://www.vancopbs.com/
When you have to have the best use one of those.
http://www.vancopbs.com/
When you have to have the best use one of those.
onlyn8v
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2005
- Location
- Long Island NY
147, 138, and 136 vs
137', 140', 133', 107', and 144 with Vanco hydraboost. Seems like its not worth the $1k. You could do the same with a WJ conversion for far less $
137', 140', 133', 107', and 144 with Vanco hydraboost. Seems like its not worth the $1k. You could do the same with a WJ conversion for far less $
onlyn8v
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2005
- Location
- Long Island NY
na, just throw in some wire-ties. You'll be fine lol
Congrats!
Congrats!
N2TOH
Veteran Member
I would be tempted to use a pair of inter coolers, or one with both ports on the same side to avoid that crossover pipe. otherwise thumbs up, would love to see that thing on the road.
update
I shortened the drive shafts, hooked up shifter, the tach doesn't seem to work so I am adding a cam sensor to cam pulley, that should solve that problem
As far as the intercooler, the one I have is nearly 3x the size of stock, any bigger I fear would just be a restriction. Also the passenger side has no room for additional tubing.
I shortened the drive shafts, hooked up shifter, the tach doesn't seem to work so I am adding a cam sensor to cam pulley, that should solve that problem
As far as the intercooler, the one I have is nearly 3x the size of stock, any bigger I fear would just be a restriction. Also the passenger side has no room for additional tubing.