1Z/AHU Billet CCV drain plates, shift knobs, and custom machining

[Abacus]

What do you think about building a 1Z/AHU valve cover that won’t leak?

What issues do you have, none I’ve ever reinstalled leak.

 

[garciapiano]

What issues do you have, none I’ve ever reinstalled leak.

Good for you. Many many people have had issues with these valve covers leaking due to the poor design. I have installed at least 6 gaskets in two different engines and every single one has succumbed to some leak at some point.

 

[starrd]

Good for you. Many many people have had issues with these valve covers leaking due to the poor design. I have installed at least 6 gaskets in two different engines and every single one has succumbed to some leak at some point.

I researched and made a jig to adjust the height of the valve cover at the 3 hold-down bolts so the perimeter seals before the bolt rubbers . Once this was done, my valve cover dosn't leak any more. This is where I read about it.

Valve cover leak - 9th try - page 1 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

Valve cover leak - 9th try - page 1 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

vwdiesel.net

 

[thechoochlyman]

What do you think about building a 1Z/AHU valve cover that won’t leak?

I'd like to, it would cost an astronomical amount of money though. Lol

 

[Benjamis]

Thought I would throw in here some pictures of how I rigged up the breather tube with the billet CCV plates. I like it, and no leaks.

20231215_165844.jpg

• Benjamis
• Jan 15, 2024

20231215_165726.jpg

• Benjamis
• Jan 15, 2024

I bought a 1/2" to 3/4" NPT adapter, then a 3/4" NPT to 1" ID Hose barb, then hooked 1" ID braided vinyl tube to the sawed off breather tube. No sign of leakage. I feel good about it, enough so to come on here and say how good I feel about it.

 

[garciapiano]

I just used the OEM CCV setup from the ABL engine. Breather puck, molded hose and flange. It all fits the AHU/1Z, but only if you use the Dorman 42062 valve cover grommet. The ABL has a valve cover that has an angled CCV port, and the Dorman just happens to be the perfect fit to the AHU valve cover to angle the puck the right way, in addition to providing a tighter fit so it doesn’t leak.

The magic of the ABL is that it uses a single all-rubber hose that is oetiker clamped at the bottom end to a plastic flange, which seals to the block with an o-ring. This results in a CCV that doesn’t leak.

The ABL breather setup is not an easy set of parts to find as the parts are all discontinued and came in a vehicle we never had in the USA, so I had to source a setup from Europe for an eye watering price. That said, I’m happy with it, as it should last a while, and most importantly, it doesn’t leak.

1Z engine bay

• garciapiano
• Jan 20, 2024

1Z TDI engine bay in mk3 Jetta

Dorman pcv grommet

• garciapiano
• Jan 20, 2024

ABL CCV on 1Z/AHU, adapted using Dorman 42062 angled pcv grommet.

The hose-to-block flange is the critical piece, which is discontinued and doesn’t appear to be available aftermarket. If someone made the flange to fit the hose, the breather puck and hose still are offered on the euro aftermarket so you could build your own. The flange could be designed to use RTV instead of an o-ring too.

 

[Benjamis]

Mr. Choochlyman here makes the billet CCV plate to whatever thread size of your choosing so you just need that and a hose barb adapter to whatever ID of your hose there.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Bumping to update the product catalog mildly. I still have numerous 1Z/AHU coolant flanges in stock and ready to ship for $225, as well as CCV plates, turbo inlet flanges, idler pulleys, and shift knobs. If you'd be interested in making a package deal for a discount, feel free to hit me up!

I'm cutting the price of idler pulleys to $125 shipped. I realize this is still quite an investment for something you can buy from Amazon for as cheap as $8, but these are now made completely from 420 stainless steel, with a brand new Timken 6303 bearing. I just removed an original aluminum prototype from my car that had 160k miles on it, and the bearing still feels like new. So suffice it to say, if you want to bulletproof your serpentine belt system, one of these will certainly do the trick.

 

[garciapiano]

Bumping to update the product catalog mildly. I still have numerous 1Z/AHU coolant flanges in stock and ready to ship for $225, as well as CCV plates, turbo inlet flanges, idler pulleys, and shift knobs. If you'd be interested in making a package deal for a discount, feel free to hit me up!

I'm cutting the price of idler pulleys to $125 shipped. I realize this is still quite an investment for something you can buy from Amazon for as cheap as $8, but these are now made completely from 420 stainless steel, with a brand new Timken 6303 bearing. I just removed an original aluminum prototype from my car that had 160k miles on it, and the bearing still feels like new. So suffice it to say, if you want to bulletproof your serpentine belt system, one of these will certainly do the trick.

Can you make one out of Aluminum?

 

[thechoochlyman]

Can you make one out of Aluminum?

I have and can! Same price.

 

[Phi1osopher]

Hi there! I saw your post for the turbo flanges on the Facebook VW B4 page.

I have a question for you. What do you think would be involved to make a flange that allows us to use a newer generation silicone turbo inlet pipe? Or is it possible that the flange you're currently making might work in that capacity.

The reason I'm asking is that I'm feeling a little cautious about this current design. You're the old plastic turbo inlet pipe is epoxied or glued to the inside diameter of the metal flange. There are parts of me that would much rather see a robust silicone hose clamped over the outside of a similar flange.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Hi there! I saw your post for the turbo flanges on the Facebook VW B4 page.

I have a question for you. What do you think would be involved to make a flange that allows us to use a newer generation silicone turbo inlet pipe? Or is it possible that the flange you're currently making might work in that capacity.

The reason I'm asking is that I'm feeling a little cautious about this current design. You're the old plastic turbo inlet pipe is epoxied or glued to the inside diameter of the metal flange. There are parts of me that would much rather see a robust silicone hose clamped over the outside of a similar flange.

I can make that outside diameter to any size you like, easy as pie! I think the current dimensions are 2.25" OD and 2.02" ID. I can make the OD as small as you like, but probably not much bigger than 2.25. Seems like 2" OD with something like a 1.75" ID would work best for universal fitment, as I'd imagine 2" is a common size.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Just a few photos of some cool shifters I've been messing with. From left to right: solid aluminum (6.5 ounces), Aluminum with brass insert (10.3 oz), Solid brass (20.3 oz), and Solid 420 Stainless (18.4 oz). I really like the solid stainless quite a bit, it's a nice feel especially when you take off the counterweight. But I've been running the brass inserted knob for a while and I think it's my new favorite. A little heavier for easier shifting but not super duper heavy. I know the B4 and B5 are cross-compatible, but I'll make one for any car.

 

[gboss]

Thanks for the link, that'll give me a better idea of which direction to go.

And sure enough!

I really love having it there. I can use whatever power outlet I want, and just flip a switch to turn on my accessories (GPS and Radar detector for now). I'll probably utilize another hole for my EVRY mod, and hopefully get my high-idle mod going as well.

Any chance you'd make a custom one of these?

I'd love a cutout for a PanelPilot SGD-24M
The cutout size is here:

https://lascarelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/sgd-24-m_datasheet_iss9_09-19.pdf

Would like to keep the 12V style port on the right or possibly swap it out for a panel mount USB power supply such as:

https://powerwerx.com/panel-mounts

How is that panel mounted in the ashtray area?

Thank you!

 

[thechoochlyman]

Any chance you'd make a custom one of these?

I'd love a cutout for a PanelPilot SGD-24M
The cutout size is here:

https://lascarelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/sgd-24-m_datasheet_iss9_09-19.pdf

Would like to keep the 12V style port on the right or possibly swap it out for a panel mount USB power supply such as:

https://powerwerx.com/panel-mounts

How is that panel mounted in the ashtray area?

Thank you!

Sure, that looks easy enough. In order to mount that plate to the center console I had to cut out quite a bit of the plastic where the ashtray used to be in order to clear all the wires. Obviously not a big issue if you don't plan on going back to stock. Then I just drilled a hole through the plastic in each corner for my screws to hold it in place.

That being said, I'm sure I could cut it without having the part in my hand, but I could probably make it look better if I had one in my hand. I'd say around $150 for the plate.

 

[rotaecho]

So, it is indeed a small world!

I am the customer who had this done. I bought two if memory serves. I had the modified flange done for my mTDI (AHU) build to match the 1.6na temp sensor (M10x1.0).

I've rocked well over 250K miles on that flange with my build.

Nice to see you here Charlie, I should have guessed it!

There's a similar ALH 4Y flange in cast aluminum on Amazon and ECS Version too that I recently discovered. I'm not sure if it make sense making another version (but you maybe able to improve on them). Those two are for manual transmissions. However, the one (long skinny) ALH coolant flange you posted earlier in the thread, I haven't seen before. I'm not sure if that's for BEW+ newer setups or for the automatic.

Thanks again for making an awesome product! I've recommended it to many who ask me about it for their Vanagon swaps!

Here is a custom-ordered coolant flange I just finished for a customer. It's made to fit an AHU engine block, accept a Mk1 Golf temperature sensor, and delete the coolant return line. It's going into a TDI Vanagon project.

 

[rotaecho]

***THIS*** is sexy! I'm doing a MK2 Golf ALH TDI swap, and I had a whole 1998 Jetta TDI car I jacked all the parts from for the upgrade.

I plan to use the MK3 02A shift tower, and this has me all excited. Know what's on my next pay-day list!

Hey guys, I'm Charlie from Legacy Mold and Tool. We're a small machine/tool shop located in Bardstown, KY and have been in business since 1997. Since I've been with this company I've starting developing products to benefit my own vehicles - including my B4 Passat. I'm going to list a few things that I currently offer, and also discuss some things I'd like to bring to market later.

Updated 6/17/24

Products I currently offer:

Rebuilt O2A shift towers. I went through the entire assembly and replaced every plastic component with oil-infused bearing bronze, brass, or stainless, depending on its function. The relay arm is made from stainless and is fully-adjustable using the original captive bolt. The shift cable is held in place with a washer threaded onto the brass standoff to retain the cable's original position. You can find more photos and info here. Price is $250 plus a $50 core fee that will be returned to you when I receive your old shift tower.

 

[Nuje]

Just a few photos of some cool shifters I've been messing with. From left to right: solid aluminum (6.5 ounces), Aluminum with brass insert (10.3 oz), Solid brass (20.3 oz), and Solid 420 Stainless (18.4 oz). I really like the solid stainless quite a bit, it's a nice feel especially when you take off the counterweight. But I've been running the brass inserted knob for a while and I think it's my new favorite. A little heavier for easier shifting but not super duper heavy. I know the B4 and B5 are cross-compatible, but I'll make one for any car.

These look FANTASTIC! But I also can't imagine how hot they'd get sitting in direct summer sunlight - I can already feel the blistering on the palm of my hand.

 

[thechoochlyman]

These look FANTASTIC! But I also can't imagine how hot they'd get sitting in direct summer sunlight - I can already feel the blistering on the palm of my hand.

They're not bad... But maybe you'd like a custom engraved pool ball better?

So, it is indeed a small world!

I am the customer who had this done. I bought two if memory serves. I had the modified flange done for my mTDI (AHU) build to match the 1.6na temp sensor (M10x1.0).

I've rocked well over 250K miles on that flange with my build.

Nice to see you here Charlie, I should have guessed it!

There's a similar ALH 4Y flange in cast aluminum on Amazon and ECS Version too that I recently discovered. I'm not sure if it make sense making another version (but you maybe able to improve on them). Those two are for manual transmissions. However, the one (long skinny) ALH coolant flange you posted earlier in the thread, I haven't seen before. I'm not sure if that's for BEW+ newer setups or for the automatic.

Thanks again for making an awesome product! I've recommended it to many who ask me about it for their Vanagon swaps!

Hey there, William! Got your message on the facebook page. Just get back to me on there whenever you get a chance and I'll ship that new flange out to you. Glad the original Vanagon flange is still working well, I've sold several of those thanks to you!

 

[Houpty GT]

These look FANTASTIC! But I also can't imagine how hot they'd get sitting in direct summer sunlight - I can already feel the blistering on the palm of my hand.

Cool knobs.
I have a 1.5 pound, steel shift knob. I rarely notice it being hot. It is shaded by the roof most of the time. I have tint and use a sunshade in the windshield. Throw a Crown Royal bag over it if hot.
The extra weight balances out the springy feel of the 02J shift tower and gives it back the smoother feel of the original 02A shift tower in good condition. If your shifters are worn out, the feel will be different.

 

[thechoochlyman]

We've recently gotten a 3D scanner and 3D printer at the shop, so I'm starting to wonder what kinds of things I can scan and 3D print/machine that are hard to duplicate, like interior plastics. Here's an example where I scanned and edited my Hurst T-handle that I bought like 15 years ago.

 

[garciapiano]

The real question is whether that 3D print can stand up to being in the engine bay or bolted to the block without distorting?

 

[thechoochlyman]

The real question is whether that 3D print can stand up to being in the engine bay or bolted to the block without distorting?

Not with this material... with ABS possibly, but would still need testing for sure.

 

[garciapiano]

SuperFastMatt has a really good video about the different filaments he uses. One of them is good up to 400°F and he built a throttle body adapter out of it.