1Z/AHU Billet CCV drain plates, shift knobs, and custom machining

[shortysclimbin]

Hmm.. I will need to check on this. The idea is to decrease the roller diameter but keep the spacing the same for the normal one. Then a second roller will be located with a customer spacer and diameter above the water pump but between the alt. A custom bracket will be needed for this as well. This would result in a lower belt setup similar to this:

Optionally, a slicker design, would be to create a custom water pump housing that allows for a VR6 12v waterpump to be used in it. doing this would mean you just change the water pump, housing, pulley, and belt for a very tight and off the shelf package down the road.

Stock water pump housing:

VR6 pump (note it runs reverse from 1z/ahu and 6A motors)
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-graf-parts/water-pump-with-metal-impeller/021121004x~grf/

Maybe you can come up with a custom housing offering? your tooling setup is perfect for it and honestly a lot of us running these engines would use it.

Benefits include:

1) elimination of the v belt that always flies off or slips (causing power steering to stop and water pump to stop)
2) increase clearance in engine bay by ~15mm. this is especially important for swap guys
3) increased life of belts and water pumps.
4) potential for heavier duty belt use (I need to check on this with gates)

 

[thechoochlyman]

I'd need some more details and measurements, but I'd be completely willing to work with you on this project for everything you need.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Would anybody get excited over TIG welded coolant flanges? Just send out some photos for a quote from a local welder.

With some of the other products I'm being approached to make, getting welding done will be a must.

 

[shortysclimbin]

I would more than likely jump for a tig welded version and hard anodized black.. Reason is.. I want the engine to look factory with them getting as old as they are, looks are getting important.

I'll keep you posted on the belts concept. I most likely need to find some old parts and design something up.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Anodizing would probably best be left to the customer. I could have it done, but leaving out the middleman (me) would allow it to be less expensive. I've actually looked for Anodizing companies local to Bardstown, KY, and have had no luck.

 

[JETaah]

There are more than a few of these anodizing tutorials on YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cp2gHZaZ-1Q

I've never tried it.

 

[Lightflyer1]

Get a quote from here:

http://www.usanodizing.com/pricing.htm

They are recommended for AR15 work.

 

[thechoochlyman]

So the welding deal fell through. My local guy wanted way too much per piece. Therefore, I'm selling this flange as a "do it yourself" item that needs the 1" barb welded in. I already sealed in a 5/16" barb for the return hose. $120 for this one. It did come back to the shop as an exchange, so it's previously used with a bit of wear on it. Doesn't affect functionality, obviously.

 

[Mongler98]

Can you make the part that holds the AC coolant temp sensor located within the upper hose right before your awesome part i got from you? I run my car hot at the track and some times it gets up to 120F for a small bit and the plastic part has warped and is now letting a tiny drip out when its cool. i have replace the o ring, its just warped. You should make it so that you can just splice out the old area and put your part in so that the barbs (nipple) comes past far enough to cut and replace it. or even more so for the future, put this sensor bung on your upper hose adapter and just make it longer to take it so we can run Non AC hoses

 

[thechoochlyman]

Wow, last post here was one day short of a year ago? I promise that wasn't intentional...

Still have four brand new coolant flanges ready to roll.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Three coolant flanges in stock!

 

[rallywagon]

Price for lower flange for CCV on an AHU? Delivered to 28806? No plug needed as I will pipe it up.

 

[Houpty GT]

Are any of these still available?

 

[thechoochlyman]

Are any of these still available?

I'm making them on a custom order basis for the moment. I'm currently away from the shop until Kentucky's state of emergency is over though.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[thechoochlyman]

Got a pre-assembled aluminum belt tensioner for a 1Z here. Sealed SKF bearing, I ran it for a couple hundred miles for testing and took it off. $75 shipped. Ready to install.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Also have three VW gear logo shift knobs ready to go, on sale for $60 each shipped. M12x1.5 thread to fit the O2A transmission tower.

 

[Durtydubbs]

I have some things I need custom made, including the oil dipstick tube mentioned earlier. Mine is for custom dipstick for a 1.6TD. I’ll message you

 

[jimbote]

Do you still have the billet water outlets? Specifically interested in the one that needs welding up. PM sent.

 

[Rig]

Gauging interest for a machined part: Turbo Inlet Pipe - Part# 1h0-129-654

Best pictures of it are here: https://www.shopdap.com/1h0-129-654-r.html

The plastic flange is a common part to break and disconnect fron the turbo, causing your car to feel like driving a Walmart scooter. I think mine had a small leak for a long time before it totally busted as now that I've jury rigged a hose to it and sealed the intake, my TDI seems to run quite a bit better.

No new parts for this exist online that I can find and why spend good money on more plastic doomed to fail? Sure I could live with a jury rigged silicone hose here, but I like things to be clean and fancy.

I'm envisioning an aluminum flange bolted to the turbo which has a receiver for a silicone pipe going up to the connection for the air box intake, which ideally could be replicated with machine aluminum.

1. Anyone know of anywhere to buy a aluminum/silicone version of this? I've looked and came up empty handed. For those of you that had this part fail on you, what did you do to fix it?

2. If a suitable performance swap in doesn't already exist, I would like to ask @thechoochlyman if he might be interested to making a replacement. If so DOES ANYONE HAVE ONE OF THESE LYING AROUND TO SEND HIM? mine is sawed in half and I threw one half in the trash.

3. What should such a part look like? What can be improved on the stock design? Can we flow more air through a larger intake?

4. How do you handle the plug, the vaccum line, the ccv hose?

5. Would the aluminum let too much heat into the intake air to be desirable? Should it be insulated or is that not a concern.

6. Anyone know of any decent airbox mods that improve on the stock design while we're at it?


Another thing: The accordian hose coming from the MAF appears to put pressure on the part in question. I think that's another reason this is prone to failure. Between the hose and the part itself (which is rather large) there is decent amount of weight bearing down on that flange. I imagine heat fromthe turbo eventually disintegrates the plastic here.

If this part were machined in two pieces with a silicone hose in between, you would probably need some kind of mount or at least a way to keep the slicone rigid, or maybe just some nice thic silicone that already has an elbow.

 

[Houpty GT]

Just use a rubber Fernco fitting from the hardware store. I believe it is 2" x 1-1/2". Trim the end of the tube and slide it on. The rubber also flexes to prevent future breaks.

Your suggestion would be better suited as a cast part, not machining.

 

[Rig]

Just use a rubber Fernco fitting from the hardware store. I believe it is 2" x 1-1/2". Trim the end of the tube and slide it on. The rubber also flexes to prevent future breaks.

For now I think I'm going to try and find a 2.5in to 2in reducing silicone elbow. I don't really trust rubber in that location. I had to cut mine pretty far back to fit the radiator hose I had on hand. Probably a mistake since it will make fitting a silicone hose a bit more tricky.

At the very least I think we could make a simple flange that actually bolts onto the turbo to receive a silicone hose for a more secure connection. There isn't that much metal there for a hose clamp to bite onto.

Over time though I just think that plastic is going to fail further up as well. And yes, I can see casting probably being the better option possibly, although I'm definitely not a metal worker. Don't have to copy the dimensions or shape exactly as long as everything fits.

 

[JettaTDI]

Will those fit an ALH?

 

[thechoochlyman]

Will those fit an ALH?

I don't believe so, but I'm going to try and design one soon. I've had a lot of people asking lately.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Is this the correct ALH flange? I'm also seeing something about a separate kind for coolant glow plugs.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Bumping the thread for added info on the machined turbo inlet flange on the first post.

 

[thechoochlyman]

I ordered a few hose barb to keep on hand for selling with my coolant flanges. Price is $200 for the whole kit - flange, barbs, bolts, and O ring. Currently have two ready to go.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Currently working on a batch of 10 coolant flanges, as pictured above. Comes with both barbs, bolts, and O-ring for $200 shipped.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Just finished up a run of coolant flanges and made a slight cosmetic revision - now with radiused, 3D milled edges around the coolant sensor port.

 

[thechoochlyman]

I now have about 9 coolant flange kits ready to ship at $225 per unit with free shipping via PayPal goods and services. These are now shipping fully assembled with the barbs already sealed and ready for immediate installation.

 

[garciapiano]

What do you think about building a 1Z/AHU valve cover that won’t leak?