jdulle
Veteran Member
Wow one key for everything! That would be nice. One of my B4s could use this.
Next would be returning all the doors to the same color.
Next would be returning all the doors to the same color.
The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...
- Thread starter Windex
- Start date
Did the ignition switch...a copper contact appeared below where I set all the parts. Clock spring sprung a bit as well. Put everything back together. No error codes and everything works as it should... not sure what the copper piece that had a touch of white grease went tooo? Come to think of it, the only thing I didn’t check was the horn.
jdulle
Veteran Member
My friend came over and replaced the QA and top cover seal on my Silver 97 B4. Afterward I replaced the return lines between injectors, and the end cap. Happy to have it back for driving to work.
Starion_slider
Active member
I chopped out the entire floor section on both sides from almost the bottom of the firewall back to the up curve to the rear seats. It was rough but i got it done. Nobody makes replacements so I made my own. Rock solid now and looks factory like underneath the car. Had to patchwork together the front seat mount points too but its all good now. Just about to hit 400k and now it will definitely live to see the 500k mark. Still my daily driver about 400miles a week. Also replaced all the rear brake lines from the master back at same time as the floors so im not worried about how scary they were everytime I panic stopped. Used all the factory clips to hold the brake lines and original fuel lines too. Also replaced all 4 struts with bilsteins and replaced one broke rear spring with a spare I had.
ToddA1
Top Post Dawg
Who needs stamping dies or bead rollers, lol.
Years ago, I remember following a thread on an air cooled forum. There was a guy in Asia who was restoring VWs hand making panels, like you did. big difference was his panels looked to be manufactured in a factory. Nobody believed him and a couple went out to see his shop. Very crude... no real machinery or paint booths. He was just using hammers and pieces of wood and metal as the forming dies, for the panels. It was pretty incredible.
-Todd
Years ago, I remember following a thread on an air cooled forum. There was a guy in Asia who was restoring VWs hand making panels, like you did. big difference was his panels looked to be manufactured in a factory. Nobody believed him and a couple went out to see his shop. Very crude... no real machinery or paint booths. He was just using hammers and pieces of wood and metal as the forming dies, for the panels. It was pretty incredible.
-Todd
Starion_slider
Active member
My setup was pretty rudimentary. Ball peen hammer, recess groove on the bed/tailgate of my 49 gmc and a piece of rectangular tube to form the sub frame flanges. Its just as functional as a bead roller and it made it plenty strong and it was basically free. I highly doubt anyone will ever see the floors besides me because i will drive this car until its beyond dead. So i call it a win.
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
Kudos for building your own replacement floor pieces, rare now to see someone going to the effort today with the amount of throw away products out there. I am amazed when I go through the JY these days the newness of the cars / trucks in there, just pitched because it was easy. It tells you a lot about what's wrong in the auto industry. I ran across a 2015 Equinox (all of them are bad actually) and couldn't believe the amount of destruction inside with garbage everywhere.
Picked up a 1988 Jetta GLI 16v yesterday, the driver floor is unfortunately in bad shape but there are so many products out there now with the rarity of these (anymore) I really hate to consider parting it out...we will see. Funny thing is it had no factory options at all....lol.
Steve
Starion_slider
Active member
Yea well I already did all the body and paint on it so the floors were something I had to fix because I wasn’t gonna get rid it of after all that work I did previously. I agree its WAYYYYY easier to go buy something newer than to waste countless hours working on junks....but getting 900+mi per tank is hard to let go haha.
ToddA1
Top Post Dawg
Opened the hood of the B4V to compare some unknown injector lines. Noticed an injector jumper hose was wet, so I replaced it. Then I noticed the GP harness was cracking badly. It basically crumbled in my hands... discovered #3 terminal was broken off. I forgot how badly the terminals fit on the GPs... I’d say there’s no grip, at all. The rubber boots are what’s really holding them on. Gave them a slight crimp and pushed them back on. I’ve got 3 functional GPS, for now.
I’ll eventually make another harness to mimic the one on the Rotbox. Better quality, and lower cost, although it definitely doesn’t look factory.
-Todd
I’ll eventually make another harness to mimic the one on the Rotbox. Better quality, and lower cost, although it definitely doesn’t look factory.
-Todd
IndigoBlueWagon
TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Always liked those Borbet wheels on these cars.Yea well I already did all the body and paint on it so the floors were something I had to fix because I wasn’t gonna get rid it of after all that work I did previously. I agree its WAYYYYY easier to go buy something newer than to waste countless hours working on junks....but getting 900+mi per tank is hard to let go haha.
ToddA1
Top Post Dawg
With winter storm Gail coming in, I decided to toss the Rondos and new snow tires on the B4. Got rid of the donut, the steel wheel, and the horribly peeling Borbet wheels. It actually looks pretty good, in the “stock” look category.
Of course I found an issue, though. The right rear wheel was just spinning and I knew I had the ebrake on. A lot of cable slack at the rear caliper, but this is sort of normal, for me. I leave them kind of loose, in case the caliper freezes up. Anywho, I popped the ebrake boot off, peeked inside and saw the cable was not attached to the tension bar. Didn’t feel like pulling out the center console, so I’ll ignore it, for now.
I’d love to put the Rotbox on the road, but it’d be more work to empty it, get it out of the back yard, then insure it. Maybe if we get another storm, but I’m hoping not.
-Todd
Of course I found an issue, though. The right rear wheel was just spinning and I knew I had the ebrake on. A lot of cable slack at the rear caliper, but this is sort of normal, for me. I leave them kind of loose, in case the caliper freezes up. Anywho, I popped the ebrake boot off, peeked inside and saw the cable was not attached to the tension bar. Didn’t feel like pulling out the center console, so I’ll ignore it, for now.
I’d love to put the Rotbox on the road, but it’d be more work to empty it, get it out of the back yard, then insure it. Maybe if we get another storm, but I’m hoping not.
-Todd
Bob S.
Top Post Dawg
Moved it into the shop given the winter storm forecast & to get her some love & attention.
turbodieseldyke
Veteran Member
Your B4 is RWD?
nh nam vet
Veteran Member
tdd,
FYI, CrazyQuantumMan has a web site tdivw.com with a link to his AWD build which he wrote up on the VWVortex: TDI Synchro 4-MO Passat
FYI, CrazyQuantumMan has a web site tdivw.com with a link to his AWD build which he wrote up on the VWVortex: TDI Synchro 4-MO Passat
powerstrokeless
Veteran Member
Wife and I went driving around on Christmas Eve (in her Equinox TD). Ran across a B4V at a gas station, the wagon looks just like mine (green) without the rust! with 240,000 miles. In talking to him, found out that he might be selling it... wasn't looking into buying another hobby car, but...
There’s also a huge amount of satisfaction when you complete something like that by yourself instead of taking the easy way out and buying something newer. This is how it used to be back in the day. I love the work you have done to you car, well done!
Yea well I already did all the body and paint on it so the floors were something I had to fix because I wasn’t gonna get rid it of after all that work I did previously. I agree its WAYYYYY easier to go buy something newer than to waste countless hours working on junks....but getting 900+mi per tank is hard to let go haha.
TDIDaveNH
Left Lane Coal Roller at Large
This is totally stupid, but I thought it was funny....so here it is lol.
Phi1osopher
Veteran Member
Time for brakes, so I ordered everything to upgrade my B4 Wagon's front brakes with the 2288mm rotors, with drilled slotted and fancy pads all the way around. I piece mealed it all together, but I think I hobbled together my own 'kit' for about $450 for all 4 wheels with drilled-slotted rotors, new calipers, and the expensive 'green stuff' pads.
Can't wait for things to arrive in a week or two!
Can't wait for things to arrive in a week or two!
Zed.
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2015
- Location
- Wales (UK)
- TDI
- '89 B3 T'die Passat wagon. '95 T4 van (1Z T'die converted). '87 mk2 Golf AHU tdi converted /02a etc. '92 & '95 200tdi Landrover Discovery
replaced the cluster in my B3v (tdi converted) from an old B4 tdi unit to a NOS petrol mfa type.
from
to
next job is to fit the MFA stalk & sub-loom to fusebox and the outside air temp sensor & 2 wire sub-loom
only taken 2 years to change the cluster on this car but the petrol - tdi conversion was done in 3 days
rear axle swap for disc brakes next...
the petrol clusters that use ecu derrived tacometer signal will work with the tdi syetem but are missing the cel lamp
Rich.
from
to
next job is to fit the MFA stalk & sub-loom to fusebox and the outside air temp sensor & 2 wire sub-loom
only taken 2 years to change the cluster on this car but the petrol - tdi conversion was done in 3 days
rear axle swap for disc brakes next...
the petrol clusters that use ecu derrived tacometer signal will work with the tdi syetem but are missing the cel lamp
Rich.
Zed.
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2015
- Location
- Wales (UK)
- TDI
- '89 B3 T'die Passat wagon. '95 T4 van (1Z T'die converted). '87 mk2 Golf AHU tdi converted /02a etc. '92 & '95 200tdi Landrover Discovery
jdulle
Veteran Member
I am in the process of replacing the inner tie rod on the 96 sedan. Used a pipe wrench to hold the rod on the rack side and a Crowfoot wrench on the inner tie rod. Took a while but not too bad. On the install of the new one we found that if we pop off the big plastic engine cover we could turn the wheel so the rod isn't sticking as far out and then we could get an open end on the rod coming out of the rack.
IndigoBlueWagon
TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Took my B4 to Kraftwerke (Mr Chill here) because it's been cranking very slowly sometimes. I've been keeping a battery tender on it but it doesn't seem to be helping. Thought it was either a parasitic drain on the battery (which is new) or a bad starter. Turns out its a bad alternator. Not charging adequately and also creating a drain. Not what I suspected, since the alternator is only a few years (and very few miles) old. It has about a 2 amp drain which is about what the battery tender puts in, so the tender is only keeping up with the battery condition, not charging it if it got depleted by a cold start and a short trip, which is often what this car is used for.
Chill also tested to see if there was any power drain from the coolant. I didn't realize this was a thing, but apparently if the additive package in the coolant has deteriorated it can do that. So I have to go back next week with an alternator (of course I brought a starter) and some coolant. FWIW the car runs great.
Also filled it up. 43.5 MPG. I wondered if the FE was down because of the new injector nozzles, but I suspect it's got more to do with driving everywhere at 80 MPH in greater Boston's pandemic traffic, or lack thereof.
Chill also tested to see if there was any power drain from the coolant. I didn't realize this was a thing, but apparently if the additive package in the coolant has deteriorated it can do that. So I have to go back next week with an alternator (of course I brought a starter) and some coolant. FWIW the car runs great.
Also filled it up. 43.5 MPG. I wondered if the FE was down because of the new injector nozzles, but I suspect it's got more to do with driving everywhere at 80 MPH in greater Boston's pandemic traffic, or lack thereof.
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quantum_tdi
Veteran Member
Well I decided to pick up a B4V parts car. PO got rear ended & pulled the engine/trans and proceeded to leave it in the barn... For years.
Like @Starion_slider I needed a potential floor donor. This one was it. He'd had all carpet, insulation out & finished with dynamat + foam.
I pulled most everything out & made dump run #1. Trying to cut out whole floor tub with as large a margins possible...
Bonus! Intact OEM cup holder and a hoard of new in box parts, rear brake, OEM window glass already out & intact, and (aftermarket) alloys.
I am going to finish all chopping I can tomorrow and then she's off to the scrapper...
Like @Starion_slider I needed a potential floor donor. This one was it. He'd had all carpet, insulation out & finished with dynamat + foam.
I pulled most everything out & made dump run #1. Trying to cut out whole floor tub with as large a margins possible...
Bonus! Intact OEM cup holder and a hoard of new in box parts, rear brake, OEM window glass already out & intact, and (aftermarket) alloys.
I am going to finish all chopping I can tomorrow and then she's off to the scrapper...
Starion_slider
Active member
I wish i could have had donor floors. Mine is working out perfect though. Way less breezy inside the car now
. She just clicked 390k a few weeks ago. I drive it everyday a minimum of 50 miles.
. She just clicked 390k a few weeks ago. I drive it everyday a minimum of 50 miles.
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
jdulle
Veteran Member
I put a new axle in the green one the other day and replaced some vacuum lines. I am hoping to fix this weird boost issue where the boost goes up and down severely under full throttle, but never goes into limp mode.
IndigoBlueWagon
TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Finally got the relay roller replaced in the serp belt system yesterday. Chill also replaced the turbo intake pipe: oil was leaking from the o-ring on that pipe and I had a spare pipe for some reason, so on it went. Hope that stops what seems to be a small but persistent oil leak.
ToddA1
Top Post Dawg
Wow, I can’t believe I posted that in the beginning of December... seemed like a month ago...
Drove the wagon the past 2 days and noticed longer than normal crank times, upon first start. More smoke than normal, and some rough running, too. Decided it was time to replace the GP harness... opened the hood and noticed 2 more leads broke off and I only had 1 functional GP. No wonder it was complaining...
Grabbed a used, spare harness, popped off the 2 intercooler tubes, and depinned the GP leads. I also decided to replace the oil soaked Volvo reducer, from the race pipe, with a new silicone reducer coupling and some SS t-bolt clamps. i probaby bought this 2 years ago, but have been too lazy to install it. When you open the hood, it looks sick....
Buttoned it back up and packed it in. Not a terrible job, but I can see why people take the lazy way out and cut/crimp. If I didn’t waste time looking for the coupler, it’d likely been 30 minutes. Be careful with that silly sleeve that clips to the harness and holds the #3 injector wire... they’re fragile.
-Todd