If I've repeated my stance on injectors plenty of times. Here is what I think.
If you leave injectors for a PD motor laying around and don't take care of them, the injector will stop working. Injectors for the PD motor should be cleaned and stored by submerging them in diesel. If it is possible, I recommend running diesel purge into them before removal.
I will never forget the Hurricane 'Sandy' that in late Octoer, 2012, went up the US East coast and did major damage to New Jersey and New York. One of our customers lived of all places, on Sandy Beach, New Jersey and in the middle of a PD BRM engine project, left his car on 'high ground'. When he got back to it, about 6 months later, the engine started and idles perfectly. But it would not accelerate much over 20 mph. His case is where most of our discovery was done.
Those injectors were removed and simply left exposed to whatever temperature was in the trunk of the car. What happened is the solenoid end of the injector, which is supposed to operate by vibrating open just a few thousandths of an inch, glued shut against the plate that seals secondary fuel from entering the nozzle. Once this happens, the only cure is to send the nozzles to a shop with the equipment to disassemble, clean, and correctly reassemble the solenoid nut. It requires about $75,000 of equipment and most diesel injector shops will not or cannot fix them. The cost is usually rivaling the cost of rebuilt injectors. There are not many I would trust to do that.
If you have someone with a known good set of nozzles who is willing to allow you swap their injectors into your engine, it will cost the price of injector hold down bolts, maybe some seals and some expertise, which I explain below, to figure this out. It should take the better part of 3 hours to check a 'sample' set of injectors in your car.
Other than that, it is important to know that injector bores that are not prepared properly will cut the seals, especially the lower black seal, due to a burr that rises up in the injector bore. If any of the lower black seals are cut, even if it is only a single one, the fuel pressure that should build to 100 psi at 2500 rpm, goes back to the tank. You might get 25psi, which is not enough to make the engine run well. The very first thing to do is make sure that has not happened to you. The two top seals are for the fuel return galley.
The reason this happens is the hold down does not push straight down, but cocks the injector away from the hold down bolt. That causes the body of the injector to vibrate against the aluminum of the injector bore, raising up a burr that needs to be removed. We use a 120 grit 60 flap 3/4" x 1" drum sanding wheel on a die grinder to polish out the bore, especially on the half hemisphere away from the bolt. Some 500 or 1000 grit wet/ dry sandpaper and your finger will work. There will be some minor dust to blow out. If you feel the need, plug the bottom of the injector bore with a paper towel or cotton batting.
When reinserting injectors, DO NOT use the hold down screw to pull the injector in, unless you want to strip the screw's threads out of the head. Use a clean block of wood or carefully with a punch, seat the injector into the bore. There is a moronic method of centering the injectors, but if you lightly tighten the injector hold down bolt, and wiggle the injector as the hold down block rests against the cam journal tower, it will find it's own center.
The hold down bolts are not reusable, but if you are sneaky about it, you can put 78 INCH POUNDS + 1/4 turn and that is enough to test injectors without destroying a non-reusable TTY bolt. You can take the bolt out and still put it back. We use a finish torque of 78 in lb +1/2 turn.
All this, just so you can properly install your injectors, which I would be willing to bet you did not, and now so you can test an alternative set in your engine.
The last thing is how we prime PD injectors, the simplest way I know how to do. First thing, before opening the fuel system, lightly clamp the fuel feed and return lines going to and from the tank from behind the fuel filter. This will stop the fuel filter and fuel lines from siphoning back to the tank. Do your work on the system. I offer this caution: the first injector you remove will drain the entire contents of the fuel return galley into that cylinder. You have to remove the fuel from that cylinder by either operating the starter with the injector or glow plug removed, or by sucking the fuel out with some vacuum apparatus. Otherwise, you risk hydro-lock and bending a rod. To continue...
Pulling injectors is easily done with a fairly large heel bar, under the solenoid nut after first working the injectors back and forth with a pair of large screwdrivers. After returning the injectors to their respective bores (btw: switching injectors around, you can ascertain if the cylinder or the injector is the issue by checking idle balance numbers on the injectors that have been switched, before and after..), tighten the injector hold down screws as directed above. Once the injectors are back in, you can remove the clamps from the fueling lines.
Then, be sure your battery is fully charged and remove all of your glow plugs. GP removal will do two things; If you didn't remove any excess fuel, it will come flying out. Do NOT stand in front of the engine at first start. The engine will also operate at about 450 rpm, which will more quickly get fuel to your injectors. Run the starter for about 30 seconds at a time. If you watch under the hood (bonnet, if you are English..) you will eventually be able to see some mist coming up out of one of the glow plug holes, then another, until you see mist coming from all 4 gp holes. Once all of the glow plug holes are emitting mist, reinstall glow plugs. If everything on timing is right, it should start right up. Now, with replacement injectors, see if your engine has any power.
Anything else, feel free to call, pm or email