Replace New Beetle Alternator - a guide.

[gshearer]

Now that the skin on my knuckes has regrown (mostly ) - I hereby present my suggestions for how to replace an alternator in a 2003 New Beetle. Some of the work is done from above, but mostly from under the car...so wear old clothes, safety glasses and remember Edison's comment "...I am not discouraged because every wrong attempt discarded is another step forward".
First, thanks to several folks who have posted info & pics about how to do this on Jetta/Golf. This has been a big help, but the NB plumbing makes it a bit harder...well, maybe a lot harder! The VW dealers quoted me about $900 for a new alternator + labor! But, a $160 alternator & $30 belt from AutoZone + some knuckle hide did the job!l Here's my suggestions:
1 - Raise front end & SAFELY support w/ stands, ramps, etc.
2 - Remove two 10mm nuts & loosen third to remove engine cover.
3 - Disconnect negative cable from battery.
4 - Remove clamp from large air pipe next to fuel filter & push pipe toward rear for extra room to reach belt tensioner bolts.
5 - Remove two clamps supporting metal AC pipe to allow the compressor to be moved more (the rubber lines will let you move it quite a bit now).
6 - Remove belly pan & right side splash shield (spin off washers).
7 - Remove two 16 mm bolts holding AC compressor (reinstall torque 33 ft lb).
8 - Move compressor out of way toward rear (rubber hoses will flex).
9 - Remove three T25 screws holding electric fan & move out of way.
10 - Protect radiator fins with thin piece of plywood (use duct tape to hold).
11 - If accessory belt still on, use 16mm wrench to move tensioner toward rear & slip belt off compressor. CAREFUL - tensioner is strong & can pinch fingers!
12 - From top, remove three 13mm bolts (two short, 1 long) from belt tensioner & remove tensioner from bottom.
13 - Remove two 13mm bolts from alternator (reinstall torque 18 ft lb).
14 - Gently pry alternator downward & remove connector & power cable from rear of alternator.
15 - Move alternator toward left and remove downward by flexing radiator hose & moving AC compressor. This will take some wiggling to find the best angle. Remember this angle to help you reinstall later.
16 - To reinstall you'll probably have to move the threaded inserts on the alternator outward about 5mm or you'll have a very hard time fitting the alternator to the attach points. Move these by putting the bolt through a stack of sockets & tighten a few turns.
17 - Reinstall is basically reverse of above. Getting the alternator back up in place will require flexing the radiator hose & moving the compressor. Remember the angle of the alternator that let you remove it? The plywood will keep you from really bending the radiator fins. The belt routing diagram has been posted elsewhere on this site. A Goodyear "Gator" belt purchased from AutoZone was a bit short. However a Gates K060653 accessory belt fit great. Total time about 7 hours, including "thinking time". Now could probably finish in 3 hr.
Hope this helps,
Glen

 

[basskleff]

Nice job! I'll definitely bookmark this one!

 

[dcmseattle]

I have a '99 beetle TDI and I am finding the bracket that holds the A/C compressor to be a real pain in the arse. Without removing it, I don't see any way of getting the alternator down. Waaay too tight!

Anybody have suggestions?

 

[hevster1]

How I did mine. Remove fenders and nose. Remove radiator/condenser bolts. Remove alternator & replace.

 

[dcmseattle]

'99 beetle

Had to remove radiator hose. NO WAY you can do the job without getting that thing out of the way. Glad I did, because I noticed it was about to blow!

 

[bayshorecs]

No need to remove the front of the car.

Drop the compressor and remove the fan from the radiator. There is just enough remove to wiggle the alt out using the cavity of the fan hole, minus some skin on your knuckles.

PITA, but not that bad.

 

[dcmseattle]

just a follow-up

Before I removed the radiator hose I banged up my rad fins pretty good, even with a cardboard cover (There was no way plywood would allow for the removal). Never realized they were aluminum. Looked for a radiator comb, but apparently they are not made for aluminum fins, so I just used an awl to painstakingly separate them. Not pretty but it took about a half hour and I think it should work.

 

[allybug]

Alternator swap

Thanks gshearer. Very helpful. Followed your directions and it went well. The alternator came right out with the bolt flanges facing the block. Slid right past the plastic radiator hose retainer and did not need to enter the fan hole. I was able to remove and install it with either the pully inwards or outwards. Definitely a great opportunity to replace the idler ,tensioner, and the serpentine belt. PS the little nut holding the alternator cable is an 8mm. Make sure you have one handy. Looking at the way they routed the AC line it appears this was their intent. They could have gone straight up to the left but instead routed it all the way over to the power steering reservoir and then back the other way. I did disconnect the large and small radiator hoses and pushed them over to the right past the oil filter mount. This makes an easy path. I don't like that you can't buy just the tensioner pulley, but have to buy the entire tensioner. It is wasteful and costly.

 

[AndyBees]

I'd say that he could change it out in much less time now. Those are the same basic instructions to change an ALT on a similar year Jetta/Golf. I can do a change in about an hour to hour and 15 minutes on a Jetta!

I always do everything from the bottom except removing the top Torex screw on the fan support (and removing the batt cable!). I use wire to tie things back out of the way.......AC compressor and Fan. I use card board to cover the Rad.

Good write-up by the OP!

 

[FlashT]

I found it much easier to remove the tensioner from the top. I couldn't reach the bolts any other way.

I'd also like to add that '98-'99 owners will have to take the extra step of replacing the alternator connector with the updated one:

http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=123_156&products_id=2340

 

[AndyBees]

Yep, I forgot the tensioner........... Has anyone ran into bad threads on one or more of the bolt holes for the tensioner?

 

[DrDon]

gshearer method worked fine for me (did not particularly want to essentially remove the whole front end as officially prescribed); too bad the bracket was not better designed for component removal/repair.

Used cardboard on top of thin bubble wrap sheeting to protect the radiator fins---easier to cut out than thin plywood (the one water-warped scrap piece I had saved for years went on the fire during garage compaction to free up space, the week before of course... thinking if haven't used by now...).

Regulator/Brush "A-circuit IB225" Bosch unit replaced with $20 "B-circuit" copy, after finding from Remy techline that Europeans evidently do not use the sensing capability of the V-Regulator.... Mainly just wanted for the brushes at 200Kmiles anyway if did not work.... but it worked fine; and of course brushes only 1/2 worn and armature/slip ring deeply grooved. Moreover tested Bosch Alternator 028 903 028E w "B-circuit copy" volt-reg/brushes, and then switched to the old Bosch FOOM 145 225 regulator/brushes at local parts store.... of course both worked just fine (after sanding slip rings, not having the lathe to turn down properly..never saw such deep grooves...looked like they were machined that way...evidently hard brushes).
Anyway was all a big waste as the non function was simply a 0.1 Ohm resistance difference from evidently inadequate ground strap(s) after Clutch, seals, and Timing Belt change (despite renewing the grounding sites under the battery previously); did not want to remove battery/ins box/etc to track down w spouse waiting to get to work after seeing the irregular voltage, so ran a couple of Romex strands from negative clamp bolt to a block bracket and the head bracket to engine cover (they had a slight resistance difference between them and the battery); will have to track it down later.
Works great now, and even oil is still clear after 2000mi, since drained oil cooler while everything was apart essentially down to block and head (had engine on crane to allow swing for both transmission removal and timing belt component access).

so thanks again, gshearer; esp after seeing the problem after all pristinely (nearly) back together (and polished)...and with hassle of installing inaccurately machined Atlas skidplate...... did not have the fortitude to take off the front end!!!

 

[jeremy1701]

Thanks for the detailed instructions! Worked great to replace my alternator.

 

[TDI_Bug_52mpg]

Brutal, period. $17 regulator and 9 hours later... *** VW.

Doing it again would still be 5 hours.

 

[oilhammer]

Brutal, period. $17 regulator and 9 hours later... *** VW.

Doing it again would still be 5 hours.

You shouldn't attempt this if it took you that long. Even taking the front clip off and pulling the lock carrier into service position doesn't take that long. Taking the engine OUT and putting it back in shouldn't take that long. These are EASY cars to work on.

Put a front evap core in a W140 S-class and let me know how long it takes you, LOL.

 

[TDI_Bug_52mpg]

Whatever ace... Be not so quick to judge on what to and not to attempt- LOL. These cars are beetch-nut. Only a handful of "home garage folks" people have attempted this task I'm sure.

Next time I'll cut-out and remove the bottom portion of the fan shroud so the alternator "falls out".

>> ALL: Keep the original Bosch alternator- it's a solid generating unit with HQ components. Commutating brushes wear - period.

Installed a new Gator belt too

Photo of existing and new voltage regulator:

http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=103568&title=voltage-regulatorexisting-and-new&cat=504

 

[cvairwerks]

Changed alternators 3 times on my bug. Worst was the one that I had to cut apart to remove due to a broken bolt on an inner ear. Even the first one was under 4 hours, including driving over to get the new unit.

Just to let you know, Oilhammer probably has more time turning wrenches on TDI's than I have driving cars, and I've put more than 250K on 10 of my last 14 vehicles.

There are a number of How To's up in TDI 101 that will greatly reduce the time you need to do a job and will show you the better methods to complete those jobs with the least amount of self inflicted pain.

 

[boertje]

My first bug alternator replacement was 3 hours which included trying to figure out how to get it out of there. Once I figured it out, it was actually quite simple.

 

[WardB]

Brutal, period. $17 regulator and 9 hours later... *** VW.

Doing it again would still be 5 hours.

LOL, well I hear you talking. Wouldn't you like to see the work spaces of the 'fast' guys. I've been wrenching on cars a long time and I'm not fast. Talked to a buddy the other day who helped change a water pump on a Mazda Miyata. Said he spent about a week doing that and a few other things.

He used to be LEGEND in Utah for building fast cars. He's previously owned two speed shops and was an engineer for White trucks, then Volvo White, then Volvo. Like me he really doesn't get excited about working on cars any more.

Egos flare up on every forum on occasion. Don't let it chase you away.

 

[CoJoNEs]

I'd also like to add that '98-'99 owners will have to take the extra step of replacing the alternator connector with the updated one:

http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=123_156&products_id=2340

FlashT, I have a 98NB with a D style connector, my connector broke (the inside plastic that holds the wires in). Would this updated connector from idparts be a replacement? Just slide my existing wires in and plug into my alternator? The alternator has been replaced previously.

 

[one particular harbour]

Thanks for the ost, it was very helpful on my 2002 Beetle TDI. I would add 3 minor things that might help: 1. to see those pesky belt tensioner bolts, I removed the right headlight and bracket. It also makes it much easier to torque those bolts through the headlight "hole". I discovered this on a post several years ago replacing the alternator pulley 2. I had to wrangle the alternator in and out 4 times due to the tightness of the alternator brackets. I ground them down (inside of the bracket) to make the installation easier. There is nothing to leverage to force the bracket in! 3. Lastly, I used a good thick magazine to protect the radiator fins. Fits great and it did the job. Again thank you for the how to guide!

 

[corpsman5]

thanks for posting! this was essentially, the exact way I did mine the other day. your info was very helpful, and thanks for adding the torque specs. I disagree with oilhammer, though. these cars are not easy to work on. a Honda or a Toyota is easy to work on. I always work on my own vehicles, and this TDI Beetle has been the worst one I've ever owned to work on. this job, in theory, was simple. although, several hard to get to bolts, and a few other things, make it a difficult job. but, if you follow the steps listed above, it should go rather smoothly, although slow. total time (looking for tools, thinking, not rushing) was 6 hours. if I did it again tomorrow, I could probably cut the time in half, if everything went smoothly.

 

[renns]

Thanks for the guide OP! I followed it to the letter, and had no trouble R&R'ing the alternator. The wife's Beetle had a nasty intermittent growl at idle that ended up being a bad bearing in the alternator at the regulator end, not the one-way clutch/pulley bearing that I was expecting from other reports.

I agree with corpsman5, in that this Beetle is the most miserable car I've ever owned from a repair standpoint. Every fix requires research in advance to figure out all the little tricks and short cuts, and even then it's still a PITA. What's more frustrating, is that I had this whole area of the engine compartment apart about 3 months ago doing timing belt/water pump job. I was hoping not to have to wrench in that same area again so soon!

 

[tvandermeuse]

I found it much easier to remove the tensioner from the top. I couldn't reach the bolts any other way.

I'd also like to add that '98-'99 owners will have to take the extra step of replacing the alternator connector with the updated one:

http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=123_156&products_id=2340

Okay, I got the updated connector. But no where on this site can I find which wire goes to which terminal on the alternator. I know one is for the ECU and the other for the warning light, but which one goes towards the "D" side of the new connector and which one goes towards the "round" side of the connector?????????????????????????????????????????????????
A little more info please, Please, PLEASE!

 

[CoJoNEs]

Okay, I got the updated connector. But no where on this site can I find which wire goes to which terminal on the alternator. I know one is for the ECU and the other for the warning light, but which one goes towards the "D" side of the new connector and which one goes towards the "round" side of the connector?????????????????????????????????????????????????
A little more info please, Please, PLEASE!

[FONT=arial,sans-serif]the clip should say 1 & 2 on it.
Blue is 1. The brown wire should have a red tracer line is 2.[/FONT][FONT=arial,sans-serif][/FONT]

 

[tvandermeuse]

[FONT=arial,sans-serif]the clip should say 1 & 2 on it.
Blue is 1. The brown wire should have a red tracer line is 2.[/FONT][FONT=arial,sans-serif][/FONT]

The new alternator has no indicators or markings at all, absolutely NONE! (What should we expect from something made in Malaysia) This is why I asked which wire goes towards the "flat side" of the D connector, and which one goes towards the "round side" of the D connector.
I took a chance and just hooked them up. The alternator works, as after starting the car I disconnected the battery and everything still worked. ie fans, radio, etc., However, when I start the car the battery light does NOT come on. So, when I am going down a long hill I turn off the car to coast, and again the battery light doesn't come on.
So, now my question is should I just flip those two wires? The worst that should happen is the alternator won't charge, correct?

 

[CoJoNEs]

1 being closest to the round part of the D and 2 being closest to the square side. Assuming your clip looks like this http://www.idparts.com/alternator-connector-a4-p-2340.html

 

[oilhammer]

Putting an alternator made in Malaysia on a Volkswagen is probably not a good idea, especially on an ALH Beetle.

 

[tvandermeuse]

1 being closest to the round part of the D and 2 being closest to the square side. Assuming your clip looks like this http://www.idparts.com/alternator-connector-a4-p-2340.html

Yes that is exactly it.

 

[tvandermeuse]

Putting an alternator made in Malaysia on a Volkswagen is probably not a good idea, especially on an ALH Beetle.

All I did was update the 98 alternator to the same alternator they put in the 99 through 2006 diesels.