Project Kill Da Auto Wabbit!, Or how I learned to love the Manual Swap

[toadz1]

Once the auto trans is gone, does the new hose formed by joining the trans cooler hose ends with a coupler serve any purpose or can it be eliminated all together and the connectors at the end just plugged?

Just go to Home Depot, to the plumbing department, and find a 1/2" copper sweat fitting for copper pipe, it's about 2" long and $.59 It fits perfectly. The water pump need that flow to activate the thermostat during warmup. Germans don't put things in unnecessarily, for no good reason.

If the part is listed in the Bill Of Materials for the swap, then you need the part.

 

[alkmisc]

Just go to Home Depot, to the plumbing department, and find a 1/2" copper sweat fitting for copper pipe, it's about 2" long and $.59 It fits perfectly. The water pump need that flow to activate the thermostat during warmup. Germans don't put things in unnecessarily, for no good reason.

And I was hoping it was just for the tranny cooler. Do the manual cars having something equivalent in the same place?

 

[alphaseinor]

I reuse the automatic wiring harness bracket to mount the power steering line

 

[jasonsp6]

Once the auto trans is gone, does the new hose formed by joining the trans cooler hose ends with a coupler serve any purpose or can it be eliminated all together and the connectors at the end just plugged?

And I was hoping it was just for the tranny cooler. Do the manual cars having something equivalent in the same place?

You are fine capping off the lines that (used) to go to the automatic trans cooler. No flow is required between those two points in the cooling system for proper operation. In fact, if you replace the metal coolant line on the front of the motor and the upper coolant hose with the manual-specific part numbers it prevents you from either cap or join lines.

 

[TDICADDGUY]

You are fine capping off the lines that (used) to go to the automatic trans cooler. No flow is required between those two points in the cooling system for proper operation. In fact, if you replace the metal coolant line on the front of the motor and the upper coolant hose with the manual-specific part numbers it prevents you from either cap or join lines.

Personally I'll just buy a union for 50 cents and call it good. Easier and cheaper. That metal coolant line is a bear to deal with.

 

[SLVVR6]

So is this image accurate to the TDI cooling system and where exactly does this union go?

 

[GdB]

Not copper, Brass is better.

I think the brass coupler from Home Depot is stronger. But maybe corrosion is more important. Not sure if brass is better for that.

 

[alphaseinor]

I just use a 3/4 coupler... It can be capped without any adverse effect.

 

[Riley]

On my 02 Beetle swap, I capped my trans hoses for a cleaner look. Now I'm trying get cruise wired up and am confused about where the pin #66 wire goes to. Right now it's pin 66 to the lower blue clutch switch (cvvv?) and the other wire from the switch goes _____? I think I read that it splices into the blue/yel wire on the brake switch. Does that mean they share the terminal at the brake switch?

 

[Riley]

I forgot the power steering hose. Autozone and O'Rielly sell a pressure hose but for cars without A/C. I ordered one for $42 to see what the difference is. I know the trans end goes under the trans to the steering rack but what is the difference at the pump end and can it be massaged or modified to work? I'm thinking the automatic-over-the-trans hose will eventually chaff through and cause a leak...probably when I'm 600 miles from home.

 

[alkmisc]

I just use a 3/4 coupler... It can be capped without any adverse effect.

What's a good way to go about capping off the two ends?

 

[Riley]

Let me just say this up front: I am not recommending this! On my car, I shortened the hoses just long enough to fit over the nipple plus about an inch for my plug. The plug was a 3/4" bolt (shank portion) with the head cut off. Cover the shiney part with black sharpie for aesthetics and presto, a plug. I even used the original spring hose clamps. I got the idea from a Passat 1.8T that had a coolant hose with a factory plug in it, honest.

 

[Lucas]

Funny how you americans are all converting to manual, and i'm doing the opposite... Love not having to change gears myself

 

[Bio Jetta]

Switching to an Auto from a manual? Do you notice how the car just doesn't feel as sporty with a slush box - like it lacks power? I'd never want to go back to that, unless I had to sit in stop and go traffic for about 2 hours a day.

 

[Riley]

I thought my Beetle would be my first automatic until I found out it was crapped out. I really like the performance and reliability of a manual. I also do a lot of stop and go traffic and still don't mind a manual.

 

[Lucas]

Switching to an Auto from a manual? Do you notice how the car just doesn't feel as sporty with a slush box - like it lacks power? I'd never want to go back to that, unless I had to sit in stop and go traffic for about 2 hours a day.

With a 6-speed DSG, there is plenty of `sport` left

 

[rkrueger]

2001 jetta mex production wiring is not the same do i use the pin# or color
thanks

 

[alphaseinor]

You use the pin number, the colors are a little different year to year... if you check the threads wiring is the most discussed here, so don't be afraid to read a lot...

 

[rkrueger]

the car runs and drives i just need to know about the Cruise

 

[rkrueger]

i cant seem to find anything o this year everything seems to b dif

 

[alphaseinor]

it's still pin 66 at the ecu, you just need to put +12v there, check my wiring instructions here

 

[Riley]

I see the light!! Now I understand what it means in a Bentley wire diagram when the wire terminates to a box with a number in it. They really were thinking!!!

 

[Riley]

Now I have cruise control. I can't believe how much I was overthinking that circuit.

 

[m2pilot]

Half-way into the swap on our 2002 New Beetle.

The auto tranny is out & sitting on a cart. (What do I do with it, anyway? How would I find someone that wants a 1/2-dead auto tranny...)

Today while getting ready to install the clutch pedal assembly, I managed to break it! Arghhh!

At the back of the clutch pedal assembly is a small white piece of plastic that twists into the metal frame. It receives the spring from the pedal & acts as a pivot point for the spring as the pedal moves through it's travel. What broke is the stupid plastic tab which holds the piece of plastic to the metal frame. It's a mystery how I managed to break it -- perhaps it was already cracked & ready to go as soon as I moved the clutch pedal by hand.

I didn't get to look at how it all went together before it burst apart. Parts went flying, so I'm not sure I have everything. For instance - the spring fits into a pivot point on the pedal side, but I can't see anything to keep it there. Pressure from the spring wants to keep it in the groove, but I have difficulty believing there isn't some other (missing) part to trap it in place.

Anyway...

Is it even possible to buy a replacement for this little piece?? Any clue what it is called / part number if I go to the VW dealer & pay some wildly overpriced amount? If someone had a picture / drawing of the clutch pedal assembly at least I could see if I have all the parts or not.

Thanks,

Mark

 

[GdB]

Half-way into the swap on our 2002 New Beetle.

The auto tranny is out & sitting on a cart. (What do I do with it, anyway? How would I find someone that wants a 1/2-dead auto tranny...)
...

Mark

What were the failure symptoms, and mileage of your auto tranny?

I may be interested in the valve body if it was not not kerma moded.

How much do you want for it? It's easy to get out, just a little messy...

GdB

 

[m2pilot]

It had 55k miles on it. Wouldn't go into reverse. A fluid change found metal pieces suggesting spalling on the gears. Other than the whole no reverse thing, it was fine.

 

[TDICADDGUY]

Spring pressure just holds it between the white piece that you broke and the pivot point that you mentioned. There really isn't anything else in there that would have gone flying. The one on my clutch pedal came broke, but I was able to get a new one at the dealer for cheap. I'll look around when I get home tonight and see if I can find the part number.

Mine lost reverse at around 155k, it still worked a little bit when cold and I nursed it along for almost 10k miles. But now it is sitting on a cart like yours, I'll probably just end up taking it to the scrapyard. Loads of clutch material floating around in the fluid, along with some gear chunks and "flakes" of brass.

 

[GdB]

I wonder if the reverse failure is just because of a worn harness. The stock harness layout has a few wear points.

Or it could be a worn Reverse Brake Clutch, or a bad solenoid.

Either way I would like to have at least one spare valve body one hand.

Can anyone send one?

I'll pay $45 shipped to 90630 for one not Ohm tested.

I'll pay $65 shipped to 90630 for one Ohm tested.

No Kerma mods please.

Ohm testing:
Solenoids 3,5,7 55-65 Ohms
Solenoids 4,6 4.5-6.5 Ohms

 

[alphaseinor]

I've got about 50 01m tranny's in my core pile... two more this week... summer time is wonderful for the 5 speed swap business.... gotta do it to my 03 jetta this upcoming week

as for the little white plastic thing... dealer only... they can print you out a diagram of the clutch pedal assembly. IIRC they are $10 each.

 

[Riley]

I've got about 50 01m tranny's in my core pile...

50?!!!! Wow!!! You must have a lot of storage space.