Leaking injection pump

[AndyBees]

The Kit in my photo is a Bosch. It has everything necessary to do a reseal except the shaft seal. Installing a shaft seal obviously requires removal of the IP.

Pulling the pump adds hours to the job, including re-tensioning the Timing Belt and setting the timing, etc. Many of the Gurus advise against re-using the tensioner once it has been tensioned. But, if something goes wrong while doing the reseal, which I doubt, you've got it right there on the bench to tackle.

 

[03wgn5spd]

The first re-seal I did of an Injection Pump was on the engine. The linked photos shows it all. I did not remove the IP from the engine. As I noted in that post with the link, some of those photos never pertained to the IP reseal where I had to remove the distributor head to get the big O-ring off. It's all in the link if you will just click and scroll through. I've included narrative with each photo.

The photo I posted above is with all the parts was a different IP. I just posted it for illustrative purposes.

As I stated, since that first reseal job, I've been inside numerous VE IPs. I know where the parts go. If I doubt anything, I refer to illustrative drawings, etc. It is quite basic inside. Several parts will only go in one location. As for losing parts, I put everything on a work bench in a working order. Generally, all an IP needs is cleaning and resealed.

The basic $15 reseal kit doesn't require full disassembly. To move the IP distributor head back from the pump housing, you need a special bolt that will only allow the head to move a certain distance from the housing. The reason is to maintain tension on the Cam Springs which in turn will not allow the little shim to fall out. That's where most people make a mistake.

The bolt can be seen near the center of the photo below.

What are the green o-rings for that are the same size as the black o-ring used for the head bolt? I have the same kit. I used the black o-ring on my son's sedan and would like to leverage one of those green o-rings that are the same size when the head bolt starts leaking.

 

[BobnOH]

either is fine- from https://www.qlrubber.com-
Black O-rings are typically made from Nitrile Butadiene Rubber (NBR), a synthetic rubber that has good resistance to oil, fuel, and chemicals. These O-rings are commonly used in automotive applications, as they can withstand the harsh environments of engines and fuel systems.
On the other hand, green O-rings are made from Fluorocarbon Rubber (FKM), which has excellent chemical and temperature resistance. These O-rings are commonly used in aerospace and chemical processing industries, where high temperatures and harsh chemicals are present

 

[AndyBees]

What BobmOH said up there ^^^

 

[GP_RZ]

Interesting video.
11-10mm injection pump reseal

 

[AndyBees]

Interesting video.
11-10mm injection pump reseal

Thanks for sharing the video. It is a good video for familiarizing yourself on what to expect when delving into an IP reseal job.
However, I highly advise pressure washing the IP (and engine) before removing it from the engine. That guy is carelessly nasty with his work. I would never use a Scotch Brite Pad ......... that stuff breaks off. All that is necessary is, wipe off the sealing area with a clean shop cloth. No scrubbing.

Also, he mentions that the internal pressure in the housing is 5 PSI ....... he is dead wrong. The internal pressure is far higher than 5 PSI. Also, on the Vane end of the pump where fuel is sucked in, there is virtually no pressure, thus, that's why the shaft seal very seldom leaks.

Lastly, when going back together he forgot to "torque" the three internal bolts on the quantity adjuster. He also doesn't mention "marking" the relationship of the quantity adjuster to the pump body. This is very important when finished and attempting to start the engine and then setting the Injection Quantity.

Somewhere, there is a good video showing the use of a Jig to hold the Injection Pump while performing work on it. Thus, no wrestling it on a work bench.

Again, it is a good video to help understand what's involved resealing the IP.

This is a good video on how the VE pump functions.

Here is a link to Runobeer's "How-to" on resealing the Injection Pump while on the engine. He's not much cleaner in his demo. But, his video talks you through the process on the engine.

How to video: On car VE injection pump seal replacement video

This is the one that we have been waiting for. It shows, in detail, how to replace the three most-likely-to-be-leaking seals on an ALH injection pump: the top cover, quantity adjuster & head seal. It is also applicable to the pumps on the A3/B4 cars. It is long, but some will appreciate this...

forums.tdiclub.com

 

[csstevej]

That’s a great video !

 

[454k30]

I put this one back together after cleaning out crud build-up over a number of years as well as lots of miles.
It worked just fine. (this photo is in the linked photos above)

Respect

 

[rustman1984]

AndyBees,
Do you know where these o-rings are supposed to go? I have looked at diagrams and videos but do not see where they go. The green 32 mm orings in the top center of you picture. I tired to highlight them and attach here. Not sure if it's working.

Loading…

forums.tdiclub.com

 

[AndyBees]

I have never installed every seal, copper washer, etc., that comes in the kit.

But, I have installed the big O-ring for the plug on the end of the pump head (I think it was the green one. The old one was red.).

In the pic below (not a TDI pump, but it is a manual VE pump), there is an O-ring behind the "cover for injection timing advance." However, unless that O-ring is leaking, I would not remove that cover. There is a strong spring behind the cover pushing out.

 

[KrashDH]

Somewhere, there is a good video showing the use of a Jig to hold the Injection Pump while performing work on it. Thus, no wrestling it on a work bench.

A standard vise mounted to a table with some jaw protectors is all you need for a complete teardown and rebuild. You can put it at all the angles you need to.

 

[AndyBees]

A standard vise mounted to a table with some jaw protectors is all you need for a complete teardown and rebuild. You can put it at all the angles you need to.

As I stated, anything is better than wrestling the IP on the work bench. I use a jaw protectors myself when disassembling/reassembling an IP. The guys in the YouTube clips are not as clean as I'd expect of someone posting something for the purpose of learning.

The Jig I referenced allows the user to rotate the IP in all the different positions necessary to do a full break down and re-assembly. If I run across the video I'll post it.

 

[KrashDH]

As I stated, anything is better than wrestling the IP on the work bench. I use a jaw protectors myself when disassembling/reassembling an IP. The guys in the YouTube clips are not as clean as I'd expect of someone posting something for the purpose of learning.

The Jig I referenced allows the user to rotate the IP in all the different positions necessary to do a full break down and re-assembly. If I run across the video I'll post it.

I saw the jig you are talking about. While nice to have and expensive, not necessary though for a rebuild. Just makes it convenient.

 

[AndyBees]

KrashDH, that's good to know. But, it is my intent to make one of those jigs in my shop before I disassemble another IP.

 

[KrashDH]

KrashDH, that's good to know. But, it is my intent to make one of those jigs in my shop before I disassemble another IP.

What part about it did you struggle with in a standard vise? Honestly curious

 

[AndyBees]

What part about it did you struggle with in a standard vise? Honestly curious

I never struggled with anything.. I just like making tools that can be helpful with a specific job.

 

[KrashDH]

I never struggled with anything.. I just like making tools that can be helpful with a specific job.

Absolutely. I'm all for making things easier for myself with tools and such.

I just can't envision I'll rebuild too many of these pumps myself as a DIY guy

 

[AndyBees]

Absolutely. I'm all for making things easier for myself with tools and such.

I just can't envision I rebuild too many of these pumps myself as a DIY guy

So, you rebuild these pumps on a regular basis? .. Hmm.

I looked back over this Thread, unless I missed it, I have not seen a post you've made to contribute to what the Original Poster has asked.
Since he has not provided a follow-up in over a week, maybe he has solved the problem.

 

[KrashDH]

So, you rebuild these pumps on a regular basis? .. Hmm.

I looked back over this Thread, unless I missed it, I have not seen a post you've made to contribute to what the Original Poster has asked.
Since he has not provided a follow-up in over a week, maybe he has solved the problem.

I did an entire tech writeup on how to rebuild these pumps.

I commented on your post because I've done it, from scratch, with a bench vise. With lots of photos and information.

Also, what part of "I can't imagine I'll rebuild too many of these pumps" was confusing? The majority of people on here, if they are going to tackle a full rebuild/reseal, may only do it once or twice.

I have no need to comment directly on every single leaky pump thread. If people feel that they want to tackle a DIY, I have provided already, the well documented tear down and re build off the car, that shows every part and seal. It's on this forum, no mystery.

Not sure what your angle is here with your comment, but show me your tech write ups if you want to call me out.

 

[jimmyfine]

Just adding a link to another thread with more info: https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/injection-pump-diagram-and-technical-info.532048/