I undid the head bolts instead of the camshaft bearing cap bolts

erykkuld

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The primary issue with GPs is being poorly seated which allows carbon to build up on the shank above the seating surface, When that happens, it is almost certain to be problematic removing the GP. The original Factory installed GPs generally come out fairly easy. Look at a GP and notice how it is made. Near the tip is the tapered sealing surface and then a slim shank with no threads and then there are the threads..... Always use the appropriate thread cleaner device before installing new GPs.......
well doesn't matter, getting a new head because it's going to cost more to get the old ones out than getting a new head.

Gp's have prob never been replaced, i have service history from the only one owner the car has had in 20 years, and they haven't changed a single one.

Worst part is that it was only serviced by VW even they can't do a proper job
 

STDOUBT

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Worst part is that it was only serviced by VW even they can't do a proper job
Volkswagen ~ turning owners into mechanics since 1938
You likely could get those plugs out w/o damaging the head by yourself if you put some elbow grease into it.
Nothing wrong with throwing Franz some business though!
 

erykkuld

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Volkswagen ~ turning owners into mechanics since 1938
You likely could get those plugs out w/o damaging the head by yourself if you put some elbow grease into it.
Nothing wrong with throwing Franz some business though!
I kinda feel like i already am learning alot, so i don't need the whole lotta cussing with me getting them old ones out.

But could anyone help me with injectors? is it hard? should i be afraid? found this thread here: https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/pd-injector-install.138041/page-3
 
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erykkuld

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Alright, i think i have gotten enough info on injectors to do them correctly, bought a new head from frans, because that was cheaper then getting those old ones out.

I won't try myself, maybe after i am done with all of this, but anyway, i got the intake manifold off today, but the heat shield on the exhaust manifold is held inn by 2 nuts, and i got one of them easily out, but second i managed to round nearly, i have been wd-40'ing all of the rear side of engine, all bolts/ nuts, so that isn't the problem.

How would i get this sucker out?
 

csstevej

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2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB

AndyBees

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Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Heat ........ in this case will be your friend. Of course, proceed with caution!
 

erykkuld

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Heat ........ in this case will be your friend. Of course, proceed with caution!
I became angry and blowtorched the **** out of it, then used a slam hammer on it, like this: https://no.milwaukeetool.eu/nn-no/5-kg-kombihammer/k-545-s/

And i used a pipe wrench to turn it, after that he finally decided to come off.

Also another question, do i need to remove the exhaust manifold/turbo out of the engine bay?

If not what is holding it back from coming out? i know there is a oil feed line on top, and return line at the bottom, anything else? oh yeah the hot side of turbo to exhaust, is that it?
 
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csstevej

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north nj
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2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
You also have the cold side to the turbo along with the hot side connections.
You can leave the turbo/exhaust on the head, it just makes it heavier.
 

Mongler98

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98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
A future tip.
1:1 acetone and atf mix. Put it on those types of issues. Let it soak all night.
 

erykkuld

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Alright, I haven't done a whole lot to the car since i undid the rounded nut. But when i did undo the rounded nut i undid all of the exhaust manifold nuts, so i think i will try to undo the turbo oil supply line from the oil filter housing side and get the turbo out/inn with the oil feed line still on the turbo, since that one seems to get stuck while the oil filter side doesn't seem too.

So i will get the exhaust out whole with turbo before i get the head, any cleaning tips?
 

erykkuld

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Alright so i have finally started on the job, i have a new head from frans and everything that i need like all new bolts/gaskets so on.
I have gotten the head off, with exhaust manifold/turbo still inn the engine bay, i might need to take that off or atleast loosen the turbo connections like mentioned above so i can get enough room to push it a bit back.

But anyway, are we still in the 'scotch prite pads' boat? I have done some reading and some people don't recommend them being used on the block because the particles get lost everywhere in the engine, i have put some kitchen towels inn all the holes/sylinders, and i am going to pull them out gently when i am done with a vacuum above em. I have slowly started to scrape the block surface with my blade, but i just don't know if i should use the scotch brite.

From what i have read people complain that the bearings don't like the residue they leave, and that you can never get all the particles out or whatnot, my uncle who has done a headgasket job before is doing the scraping, and a mechanic we know and trust dearly told us to simply only use the blade on it, making sure not to gouge the surface. But then again how clean can you get it only by using a blade.

Since i didn't have enough time to get the new headback on because the cleaning part, i have sprayed the area with wd-40and laid a plastic sandwhich bag on top then some old pants i don't like anymore so dust doesn't form, here is a pic of the surface before touching it:
 

Poor King

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Don't use the scotch brite because little particles do come off it. In my case, I am doing a complete rebuild and I can blow them off with air prior to dropping all the components into the empty block.
 

Poor King

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But if you are going to decarbon your pistons (which I suggest you should while you have the head removed) I don't think you have much of a choice.

 

erykkuld

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But if you are going to decarbon your pistons (which I suggest you should while you have the head removed) I don't think you have much of a choice.

Well you are kinda lucky then, I don't think I want to turn this into a complete engine rebuild. I will get the deck clean with only a razor then, I don't think anyone should recommend the use of scotch brite pads, of course as long as you are not doing a complete engine rebuild that is. If you have the block on it's own might as well do it with scotch brite pads or any kind of abrasive that is using aluminium oxide since you are going to thoroughly clean the whole block through.

I have learnt a lot from becoming a amateur mechanic because my mistakes and my brave choice to own a 20 yr VW.

thankfully I didn't lay a scotch brite pad on the deck.
 

Poor King

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Leave it to the internet to overblow the most mundane of hazards. A few cycles of coolant flush should be just fine and if you're worried about getting some of the remains out of your oil, you can use the following steps...

https://www.reddit.com/r/Cartalk/comments/b3l557
I could not have gotten these type of results with just a scrapper on all the parts I cleaned this week...

 

erykkuld

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Leave it to the internet to overblow the most mundane of hazards. A few cycles of coolant flush should be just fine and if you're worried about getting some of the remains out of your oil, you can use the following steps...

https://www.reddit.com/r/Cartalk/comments/b3l557
I could not have gotten these type of results with just a scrapper on all the parts I cleaned this week...

I see, thank you for reassuring me. Makes sense to simply flush everything, would you then recommend using a scotch brite pad afterall?
 

Poor King

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To clean the piston heads and chambers, yes. Only by hand and I don't know of any other method that would allow you to reach the deep bowls and contours of the pistons. On the head you can get by with a scraper (or flattened copper tube like mentioned on this thread) because it is supremely flat.

I did mine a few days ago. Kinda glad I got to take the rings out and get into the grooves which were filled with the worst of it.


In the end it all depends on your application. There are heads/blocks from other manufacturers that require a certain amount of grain which acts as an abrasive clamp for the gasket, and you cannot use a scraper. Zoom in on the oil pan pic I posted above: you cannot use a scraper on that for example.
 
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erykkuld

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To clean the piston heads and chambers, yes. Only by hand and I don't know of any other method that would allow you to reach the deep bowls and contours of the pistons. On the head you can get by with a scraper (or flattened copper tube like mentioned on this thread) because it is supremely flat.

I did mine a few days ago. Kinda glad I got to take the rings out and get into the grooves which were filled with the worst of it.


In the end it all depends on your application. There are heads/blocks from other manufacturers that require a certain amount of grain which acts as an abrasive clamp for the gasket, and you cannot use a scraper. Zoom in on the oil pan pic I posted above: you cannot use a scraper on that for example.
very informative i must say, but on the block deck i am good to just scrape off For best sealing property? I will try to wipe the top of the pistons a tiny bit atleast, but for the most part i might leave them alone
 

erykkuld

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very informative i must say, but on the block deck i am good to just scrape off For best sealing property? I will try to wipe the top of the pistons a tiny bit atleast, but for the most part i might leave them alone
of course not scrape them, but atleast wipe them off with a mikrofiber
 

Poor King

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Yeah you can use just a scraper on it but my thing with cleaning a head in that state... Whether you're using a scraper or green scotch brite pad, the residue and remains will fall and enter the galleys regardless of the tool you are using to clean it 😕

Once again, you'll have to flush the coolant and motor oil out which with ever method you choose to clean your head. I highly advise you decarbonize the pistons; that little bit of elbow grease will pay off in the long run.
 

erykkuld

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3M scotchbrite Roloc bristle discs.
I've use them daily, excellent for cleaning blocks and cylinder heads but don't go crazy on the head.
Yeah you can use just a scraper on it but my thing with cleaning a head in that state... Whether you're using a scraper or green scotch brite pad, the residue and remains will fall and enter the galleys regardless of the tool you are using to clean it 😕

Once again, you'll have to flush the coolant and motor oil out which with ever method you choose to clean your head. I highly advise you decarbonize the pistons; that little bit of elbow grease will pay off in the long run.
Again, don't need to clean the head, it is refurbished from dutch auto parts. I only need to clean the block deck surface, I will obviously give the head a wipedown with clean mikrofiber cloth and brake cleaner. But I simply want to clean my block deck without contaminating the oil too much.
 

erykkuld

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Again, don't need to clean the head, it is refurbished from dutch auto parts. I only need to clean the block deck surface, I will obviously give the head a wipedown with clean mikrofiber cloth and brake cleaner. But I simply want to clean my block deck without contaminating the oil too much.
Gonna do some cleaning today and tomorrow, i am guessing as long as i can feel smoothness with my nail/fingertip it should be clean enough?
 

erykkuld

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Alright well used blades for a good 3-4 hours alone on the deck, but it still wasn't clean enough through feeling with my fingertip, so i used some 1200 grit sandpaper with wd40 to get the patchy/rough spots, head is now installed on the car.
 

erykkuld

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Alright well used blades for a good 3-4 hours alone on the deck, but it still wasn't clean enough through feeling with my fingertip, so i used some 1200 grit sandpaper with wd40 to get the patchy/rough spots, head is now installed on the car.
I will say I think I am happy with the surface, could be better but then I would risk pitting, so I left it like this:
 

03TDICommuter

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Looks good. Surprised to see the cutting marks from the factory when they decked the block. Can you feel those ridges with your fingernail?
 

Poor King

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Odd those cut marks are not visible on my block.
 

erykkuld

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But now i have to do the rest, i have taped off each side the camshaft sticks out, and put on the valve cover so dust doesn't sit on it. do i need to put everything back together. Anything special i should do?
 
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