I undid the head bolts instead of the camshaft bearing cap bolts

erykkuld

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Golf mk4 1.9L 4motion 115hp AJM
Got the camshaft/injectors mounted on the car now. But I wonder since I don't have a big enough measuring caliper to measure up to 333mm in lenght for the number one injector, how straight do I need to get them? I have the Irwin manual for my car and have the measurements but I cant really get my hands on a big enough measuring tool
 

erykkuld

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Golf mk4 1.9L 4motion 115hp AJM
Got the camshaft/injectors mounted on the car now. But I wonder since I don't have a big enough measuring caliper to measure up to 333mm in lenght for the number one injector, how straight do I need to get them? I have the Irwin manual for my car and have the measurements but I cant really get my hands on a big enough measuring tool
or like they call it in the manual 'vernier gauge'
 

erykkuld

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No one knows how i could solve this? Is it alright if I go by eye on the solenoid valve nut and pray?
 

erykkuld

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also, i am thinking of starting the car tomorrow, unplugging the injector connector, cranking it for 30-45 seconds, so oil is everywhere and the fuel system is primed then starting it, i have some old (6 years old) semi synthetic 10w40 in my garage that is sealed. Can i use this oil for running the car until it is warm, draining that oil then filling it with proper oil for the first 1000km and then changing it again?
 

pedroYUL

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Sound is totally normal when everything is in place and you have compression. Now, you should've used assembly lube on the cam and lifters face, perhaps you can still do that while you rotate the engine.

Also, you do need break-in oil, and procedure: iirc something like 30 min at 2k rpm fixed, then change the break-in oil for your PD oil (5w40/505.1).
 

erykkuld

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Golf mk4 1.9L 4motion 115hp AJM
Sound is totally normal when everything is in place and you have compression. Now, you should've used assembly lube on the cam and lifters face, perhaps you can still do that while you rotate the engine.

Also, you do need break-in oil, and procedure: iirc something like 30 min at 2k rpm fixed, then change the break-in oil for your PD oil (5w40/505.1).
Thank you for a snappy response, alright 2k for 30 minutes it is then, and yeah I used assembly lube (mos2) on the lifters/bearing surfaces but most of it wiped away after doing a few turns with the crank, there is still tons of it on the lifters
 

pedroYUL

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Thank you for a snappy response, alright 2k for 30 minutes it is then, and yeah I used assembly lube (mos2) on the lifters/bearing surfaces but most of it wiped away after doing a few turns with the crank, there is still tons of it on the lifters
Break-in oil is special oil. Not exactly sure what's in it, but it helps with mating new surfaces.
Over here the easiest one to find is Gibbs, and you should try to find something equivalent over there. Check with your local modding crowd, that's how I found it locally over here, otherwise there should be internet suppliers.
 

erykkuld

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Golf mk4 1.9L 4motion 115hp AJM
Didn't get to complete the car, work next day. But since i am a newbie, i think i have set the timing right. Here are pics: Does this look correct? since i can see the flywheel mark that means pistons are tdc no 1 and since the hole for the cam lock pin has space to get inn there that means the first pair of cam lobes point up, as valves closed correct?
 

Dannyboy

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Mb
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Thank you for a snappy response, alright 2k for 30 minutes it is then, and yeah I used assembly lube (mos2) on the lifters/bearing surfaces but most of it wiped away after doing a few turns with the crank, there is still tons of it on the lifters
Your golden, don't overthink it. Using camshaft lube is more than enough. Lot of people don't even bother changing the oil.
but poor king am i thinking correctly?
Your not trying to do a cam swap without the locking tools, are you? When it comes to putting the belt back on you need them
 

erykkuld

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Golf mk4 1.9L 4motion 115hp AJM
poor king am i thinking correctly tho?
Your golden, don't overthink it. Using camshaft lube is more than enough. Lot of people don't even bother changing the oil.
Your not trying to do a cam swap without the locking tools, are you? When it comes to putting the belt back on you need them
the belt is already on, i have spun the crank loads of times, the pictures i added were after i mounted everything with the timing belt
 

Poor King

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Im not sure what you're asking me. If it is about the cam lobe position, iirc, cylinder one (cam lobe right next to timing belt) should be laying completely flat on its side, but tbh I cannot remember if that is the exhaust or intake cam lobe. Just line up the 2 points and you should be good to go.

The way I do timing belts, I draw lines on the belt with chalk or a marker and then transfer it to the new belt as a secondary measure of relieving myself of any doubt. But you're way past that.
 

pedroYUL

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neighbors never appreciate that part, specially if your car smokes a little
 

erykkuld

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Golf mk4 1.9L 4motion 115hp AJM
im currently in the car doing the break inn
break inn went alright, only slight hiccup was that the valve on the diesel filter started to leak for some reason, luckily i had another one laying around
 

erykkuld

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Golf mk4 1.9L 4motion 115hp AJM
neighbors never appreciate that part, specially if your car smokes a little
It didn't smoke at all, or it did from the engine bay? but i think that is all the leftover wd-40 i used i will go for a test drive after it has cooled down and ive replaced the oil
 
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erykkuld

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Golf mk4 1.9L 4motion 115hp AJM
It didn't smoke at all, or it did frim the engine bay? but i think that is all the leftovet wd-40 i used i will go for a test drive after it has cooled down and ive replaced the oil
Well can't really say much, i am suprised and happy it went well, car still has it's power, no smoke, no leaking anywhere from what i can see, but when i filled the oil after cam break inn there is mikshake/mayo on the cap, not on the dipstick. I am guessing sone residual coolant was still in there from when i took the original head off, when i drained the first oil or the oil that was in the car when i took the old head out there was a good 2 seconds of coolant draining instead of oil. So hopefully it's just that
 

erykkuld

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Golf mk4 1.9L 4motion 115hp AJM
I was correct, milkshake residue was gone after the 150 km mark, trying to trace a suspension issue now, getting somekind of clunking noise, unsure what it is, so subtle that i don't think i can get it on a recording. I have tried driving the car is circles to check for drive shaft/cv axle going bad, doesn't seem to be that, can hear the sound pretty well going 50 kmh and up. Any suggestions on what i can try out?
 

csstevej

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Sway bar bushings, aft lower control arm bushings , rear beam bushings , forward upper shock bushing.....:

Does this do it in a flat surface or bumpy surface?
Can you tell if front or back ?
 

erykkuld

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Jul 1, 2020
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Golf mk4 1.9L 4motion 115hp AJM
Sway bar bushings, aft lower control arm bushings , rear beam bushings , forward upper shock bushing.....:

Does this do it in a flat surface or bumpy surface?
Can you tell if front or back ?
sway bar bushings look good. All bushings on control arms were replaced last year, whole shock assembley has been replaced last year, can tie rods make these sounds? I will get the car on a hoist/lift and maybe 'drive' it on the lift to see if i can replicate and check everything again
 

erykkuld

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Joined
Jul 1, 2020
Location
Norway
TDI
Golf mk4 1.9L 4motion 115hp AJM
Sway bar bushings, aft lower control arm bushings , rear beam bushings , forward upper shock bushing.....:

Does this do it in a flat surface or bumpy surface?
Can you tell if front or back ?
i would say the sound is more noticeable on a flat surface going straight, because then there is less sound of the tires/everything else, i might just be over my head now, listening to every single thing i can hear, but this sound i am hearing is something for sure
 
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