How long to remove turbo from the engine block?

[Rapidrob]

My turbos vanes are not moving properly. The engine is in a constant overbooked condition
How long does it take to remove the tubo from the engine. My 1.9 is iintercooled.what gaskets and the like should I have on hand?
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I have seen liquid tubo cleanes for sale.
Are they worth a darn to use? or a total waste of money?
250K on the engine
1996 Passau TDI

 

[oilhammer]

Your turbo doesn't have "vanes". It has a wastegate.

Book time is 3.5hr to R&R the turbocharger on that car. But I would want to pin down your actual problem first. It is more likely to be something on the control side.

 

[Mongler98]

No vanes. You have a KKK03 TURBO.

You should have a code. What is the code!
You going into limp mode? Goes away when restarted?
9/10 it's a boost leak on the lines. Dont forget to check the one section in the ECU

N75 valve could also be suspect. There are various reasons why but you need to scan codes and trouble shoot the boost lines 1st.


Remove wastegat actuator from the turbo arm if you cant move the arm then you can try some acetone and ATF mix 1:1 or whatever pb blaster etc.... and spray it and use some pliers to work it to move.

Do you have vcds? Making some logs would help.

 

[Rapidrob]

I don't have a working VAG COM,it died. I have an aftermarket reader and will try to pull up a code.
My engine will go into the limp mode if I exceed 3,000 RPM up hill. Resets after cycling the ignition key.
How hard is it to get to the waste-gate control arm? From the top or bottom of the engine?
Thanks for ID'ing the turbo. Youtube set me on the wrong type.

 

[Mongler98]

I don't have a working VAG COM,it died. I have an aftermarket reader and will try to pull up a code.
My engine will go into the limp mode if I exceed 3,000 RPM up hill. Resets after cycling the ignition key.
How hard is it to get to the waste-gate control arm? From the top or bottom of the engine?
Thanks for ID'ing the turbo. Youtube set me on the wrong type.

do it from the bottom. not difficult to get to at all.
Start with checking the boost lines. they must hold 15 PSI, but to test them you can use a bike tire pump and pump it up to 30, it should hold, if you have a leak, you wont even make 10
If you do have a leak, i highly suggest you use the OEM stuff from ID part.com
IMO go buy a rosstech cable or have your cable repaired, Some decent scanners like Kobra are ok at pulling codes but IMO you can just go to autozone for that.

You can check the operation of the arm AND the actuator.
Pressurize it see if it moves! If no then detach the rod and see if the arm moves.
its very uncommmon for the arm to get coked up with soot unless you drive very easy on it, of you have a oil vapor issue or oil issue fromt he turbo that is clogging things up. a HOT turbo WILL burn all that off and it wont get clogged easily. but it does happen apparently!

 

[ToddA1]

If you bought your dongle directly from Ross Tech, they do have an exchange process for broken dongles. I’ve done it.

if that turbo is stock, I’d expect it to be a gt15, not k03.

Getting those dp nuts off is a pita. The top one, closest to the block, is always the one that’s rounded off. I’ve been successful with pounding on a smaller socket with an air hammer.

-Todd

 

[Abacus]

Thankfully he lives in NM, where there is little rust. I've had to do the same with a smaller socket, and use bolt-outs, and even snapped off studs. A small oxy-acetylene torch is your friend in that case, the small ones I always thought were cute, but it turns out they are invaluable. The 1 pound bottles don't last long but they're not used often.

 

[oilhammer]

Jumping straight to the most difficult to access part is not wise. The pressure hoses (the N75 on these wastegated turbochargers doesn't use vacuum) are easily checked at the N75 at the air cleaner. And with an airgun (even some hand vacuum pumps can also pump pressure) and a mirror you can work the wastgate and see it move when you apply pressure to the appropriate hose.

The OP really needs a decent scan tool. You at least need to figure out if you are dealing with too much or too little boost. The system is pretty simple, and usually a rotted out hose is the cause.