Help with Jetta Wagon Purchase

[tdihopeful]

Hello TDI Club I'd like to ask for help with a pending purchase of a 03 Jetta Wagon. Had a quick look at the car tonight and it looks pretty good. Was said to have newer paint and it looked good though I noticed dripping like paint icicles on the edge of the hood/grill essentially a non-issue. Was told that the last issue the car had was it was going into limp mode (presumed) or as the seller said bogging. He said he had eventually remedied this with replacement of vacuum pump/vacuum sensor. Said the turbo was replaced recently. Said he cleaned the EGR manifold recently as well. He mentioned that he knows Chris at Kerma and had gotten advice troubleshooting the problem with boggling from him. He seems like a pretty nice guy the seller, no reason to think he's dishonest or anything. I looked up the VIN on vincheck.info and there was no reported damage history or salvaged title appearing. He said there was rust in the typical place on the front side panel and that that was professionally repaired. He mentioned that the car is steering slightly to the left and this concerned me. He said it was a recent thing that Firestone didn't get the alignment quite right when he had an alignment check. Said he's gonna take it back tomorrow morning and get it straight and provide me a report. My concern with that sorta thing would be frame damage. He said he purchased the car on ebay in 2015 for 4,500 and he says he has almost that into it and says he wants 4,000 to basically break even. I'm fine with that as long as there is no frame damages. My question is where do I look and what tell tale signs are there that could indicate frame damage. Any other pre buy inspection points? If there is anyone TDI club in San Diego that wouldn't mind having a look or if anyone can send a phone or ask for mine to meet with someone tomorrow. Alternatively I could maybe have it inspected at a VW shop but would need to have them be able to do it quick so I can get on my way back north. Anyway thanks and please get back to me asap if you can help with this purchase. My # is 242-1293 with an area code of California Central Coast/San Luis Obispo area.

 

[ToxicDoc]

Id get it inspected on a lift at a shop - my $0.02

 

[tdihopeful]

Thanks taking it to Mission VW for an inspection.

 

[tdihopeful]

Mission didn't have an operational frame jig at the moment. Collision department had a quick look for evidence of damage with only suspect matter being an aftermarket paintjob. Otherwise he said if it had been repaired it wasn't noticeable. The interior is pretty rough with little things like console hatch being broken door handle broken. One of two keyfobs dosen't function to remote lock. There was broken glass pieces in the door bay of the passenger side I asked if the car had been broken into and he said not to his knowledge. Thats obviously at least a little off no? The interior had not been cleaned. I really want to be on my way with a decent car that's a fair deal like we all do right? What's you're opinions on these issues is 4,000 excessive with these matters coming to light?

 

[tdihopeful]

Precise alignment was as mentioned perhaps and as I had considered a product of my high standards for geometry and mechanical soundness.

 

[hskrdu]

What's you're opinions on these issues is 4,000 excessive with these matters coming to light?

I didn't chime in earlier because you gave very little information to go on. We know the year, model, and have a list of problems. I thought $4,000 was too much without receipts and a better maint history. Now I think I think you should walk away and look forward to finding a more trusted car, if not seller.
Paint: New paint is rarely a good thing, from covering up rust to replacing body panels. Bad paint is an overall bad sign.
Broken glass: The owner's answer is more of a concern than a break-in, but accident damage is just as much a problem.
VIN check is largely useless to determine history. Need actual receipts, workshops, and maint history from a trusty owner.
New Turbo? Receipt? Who installed it? Unless it was due for a new one, this isn't necessarily good.
Limp mode (bogging down) is common, as is cleaning the EGR and fixing vacuum leaks, but a Guru would have fixed far before it cost $4000.
IMO, someone selling an ALH TDI Wagon (sought after car) that doesn't clean the interior is telling buyers that they just don't care.
Add key fob (if the owner is too lazy to replace battery or fix, it;s not a good sign), and other discrepancies, and I would walk.

Next time, we need pictures, mileage, maint history, date of last TB change, list of actual receipts and caretakers if known, and of course, tell us if it's an 01M or 5 speed.

 

[CleverUserName]

A TDI wagon in rough shape is worth $2500 or less. Keep looking or pay more for one that has been well cared for.

 

[tdihopeful]

Thanks I'm not certain that the paint was to cover up anything suppose it's possible and not that additional info is necessary. I had the same concern with the Turbo. At approximately 230,000 it seems like it's perhaps a little premature for turbo though I'm certainly a newb and couldn't ascertain this. There was rust disclosure that was in the common place low on the front quarter panels where the dirt road debris collect. He said these areas were repaired. The trans is a 5 speed. I am pretty taken aback by the number of little things that are broken or not quite right one was foam in the air vents. Numerous clips and fender well plastic sagged and that sorta stuff. Seems to run well other than I noted that the turbo was spooling up occasionally a little while idling and an unknown little bit of noise when idling that wasnt the typical lifter/valve chatter but a deeper kinda clunky sound. It's been close to 10 years since I had my Golf that had 80,000 and was definitely tight and I really cant recall if it had a similar noise. Well while the seller may be lazy, not care or has a busy life or whatever he said he wanted me to be happy with the sale. My view of the world and my life is kinda like I don't even really know what that means to be honest. I understand money is money but also think that these machines are absolutely incredible and from a simple bicycle to a jet aircraft they are taken for granted and devalued arbitrarily to a large extent. I can't recall how values are appraised I vaguely remember a 1-5 system. This car I'd say is 2 out of 5 on interior 3-4 exterior. I figure these are my choices take the car for a comprehensive look over. Though where in San Diego is Mission VW adequate it should be. Not worry about any of it and just use it as an example and learning subject doing my own work on it replacing and repairing what is wrong. Tell the seller I want a partial refund to offset the matters that have been noticed/could have yet to discovered. Say I want him to accept the car back and a full refund or a combination of these. I don't know it may be hard to "sleep on it" maybe not.

 

[tdihopeful]

And of ****in course Facebook marketplace is now a broken link/saying that my browser is unsupported and craigslist is blocked by the network administrator at the Motel I'm at

 

[tdihopeful]

Can't easily look for another TDI to test tomorrow for comparison or as an possible alternative purchase

 

[tdihopeful]

I think I can honestly say and that's not even the half of it.

 

[tdihopeful]

Or maybe it is. ****ing relatively?

 

[tdihopeful]

Sorry just kinda frustrating... I've got a couple questions on photos I've taken. Here they are. The frame nor door panels have any noticeable creases or damages that indicate any collision from front, back or sides. There are indentions on the frame rails near the front roughly under where the front driver and passenger foot bays are. This is from the car being used as an off road vehicle perhaps... Probably from hitting a unusually high speed bump but not from jacks or lifts? Rust in the usual places but worse on the passenger side back of front wheel well and front lower wheel well/side skirt? . One of the front plastics has a wood screw in it. Enter (duling banjos) Timing belt was pretty recently at 211,000. Interior is rough and didn't like to see glass in the passenger door pocket, in the lower seatbelt retainment area and on the rear passenger carpet area. It's been such a time since my Golf that I don't know what engine sounds would be indicative. There was a disconnected sensor and I have yet to learn what sensor this is. Then a photo of the rear door and my examination of the plastic. I noted the quality of this light beige plastic seems to have a much better quality than the black plastic of much of the interior. I don't think it's aftermarket. I question why VW didn't use it more extensively. Perhaps it is structural to support of the rear trunk/hatch glass? Would like most of the interior plastic to be this plastic at least. But thats that I guess would be nice to have another ALH to compare and contrast to or an experienced member to test drive/hear engine and feel if it is running smooth enough or if anything seems off. I'm very likely leaving San Diego tomorrow and probably with the car weather it's wrong or right. I told the seller that I don't think 4 was a fair deal and proposed a partial refund of 1,000. I don't know how much more legitimate I can be in facilitating a adequate valued deal in Spirit.

 

[tdihopeful]

Oops forgot photos. Is it only possible to use a url photo host or what? I can't seem to find a way to upload from my phone. I looked at the

 

[CleverUserName]

I’ve bought 3 ALH cars, and looked at many others which I didn’t buy. 1 Golf and 2 Jetta Sedans all with manual transmissions. The golf was the “nicest”, it had the lowest mileage and had some upgrades but it was also $5000. It also had an undisclosed sunroof leak which I found out about the hard way during the first rainstorm after I got it. It was fixed and I replaced the monsoon receiver with a pioneer GPS unit. I sold this car to my dad for $6000 after I upgraded to my 2010 JSW.

The best car was actually the $1500 2003 Jetta GL (no sunroof) with 274K miles. It was from the original owner who had done most of the maintenance and repairs by himself. He disclosed it had a minor coolant leak which turned out to be a bad CTS ( a $20 part ) It was mostly stock with .194 nozzles and 17” Long Beach wheels. This car also gave me the best fuel economy of the 3 cars after replacing the battery and tires. I sold it to my mechanic for $3500 after getting my Cruze.

If you want one of these cars, it is best to be selective. It may take 6 months or more to find the right one. You will want to set up your Craigslist alerts within CA so you are notified when one is posted. Be prepared to travel because if the price is right and it’s nice it will be sold within 24-48 hours.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

I wouldn't consider buying this car, regardless of price. Is the car in CA? If so, why does it have rust? Where did it spend its life? Car pulling could be worn steering rack, shot control arm bushings, or other issues, not simply an alignment problem or accident damage. Broken glass after a break in or accident is hard to clean up, it tends to get everywhere, so I wouldn't rule out some vandalism or an accident before the current owner purchased the car. It's not clear if the issue with limp mode is fixed, but it also doesn't sound like you have a good maintenance history nor does the owner have a good relationship with a mechanic who's taken care of the car. The issue might be simple, might be difficult to sort out. And you've got lots of little stuff (broken trim, key fobs not working, etc) that can add up.

I'd just look for a better example. They're out there, you just have to be patient. And presistent.

 

[BobnOH]

Yea man, you're buying a used car, even with all the back story and anecdotal evedence there's not much we can help with. Price may be a bit high. Get the engine warm and drive the piss out of it. One thing about VWs, with stuff working, they drive real straight and true, very solid feel.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

I've bought a bunch of used TDIs (at least 8) and the best ones were one owner cars where the owner either knew how to care for them or had a guru take care of them. My B4 is a one owner car and even though it needed some catch up work, it's in fine shape. The best one was my son's '02 Golf that we bought with 265K on it, one owner, guru maintained since new. It now has 400K on it with only routine maintenance and replacement of wear items. It's been amazing. Some of the multi-owner ones with questionable maintenance history have been disasters.

 

[borninabus]

walk away from this car!!!
you've been warned.

you're not really providing enough information for us to be helpful. apparently, you are in a hotel in CA and looking for a Mk4 wagon. that's all we have. are you in CA to buy? does your car HAVE to be a wagon? 5spd? you've been told to be patient and selective but maybe that doesn't fit into your plan? provide better information and you will get better advice--that you might actually want to hear.

 

[tdihopeful]

Thanks everyone. I don't feel like explaining my life or life's story per-se here at the moment and either I would be perceived as a nut job or evidence dismissed or ignored. That's not to say I feel TDI Club isn't appreciated it is and will be. I've paid for the car at this time and if I paid more than I should have or trusted a little too much then it's what it is. I have a TDI again!

 

[Rapid Transit]

Welcome back to the club. Regardless of which 17-20 year old MK4 ALH TDI you purchase, it will be a labor of love. You will be wrenching on it or paying for the same for as long as you own it. It is satisfying doing what it takes to keep her on the road. Congrats!

 

[tdihopeful]

Rapid Transit thanks I have never thought that I had left though and the way you put that saying that I'd have to be wrenching or paying for wrenching all the time makes it seem like maintenance is overkill on TDI's are you saying that the Nano Car Maintenance Robots aren't gonna help me out now that I had one mis-shift?

 

[tdihopeful]

Really though really something happened today. I don't think it was that the seller had the car patched together with gum and tape and it broke on me because it had a neglected issue, no I think I mis-shifted and skipped the timing belt.

I think the timing is off now perhaps broken timing belt and ouch that's gonna be expensive isn't it if I don't do the work myself or find a local TDI aficionado to help me out.

Scenario was this; was coming to a quick stop was in a pretty high gear 3rd or 4th and was pretty close stopped before full disengagement of that gear. Engine shut down and I attempted to start twice and realize it's bad. Push car off road applied for AAA because I couldn't believe the previous owner having said he'd leave insurance on it for a week after sale, had it towed back to the Motel I've been the last few nights checked back in and dam I guess I suck! Pretty bad.

I never mis-shifted my Golf. I think I had an erroneous understanding of what the car could handle. I didn't realize the TDI needed to be shifted half as precisely as an F1 car... Of course I don't know what it is but that's what my gut mechanical instinct tells me though that's all I have to base on.

 

[CleverUserName]

There is so much fail in this thread. We told you not to buy it and you did anyway. It's gonna cost as much or more to fix it than it's worth. The seller knew it was a turd and needed a bunch of work which is why he sold it.

 

[tdihopeful]

Yes clever you did caution me. Though these cautions were after I had paid the guy. I was being a naive buyer I suppose especially willing to give benefit of the doubt and trusting. That dosen't make me a bad person if anything that way promotes a better world. Paying a higher price drives up the value of the entire fleet. If you read my post I didn't blame the seller though it could have been a neglected belt tensioner. I have been watching YouTube learning and now know the plug that was not attached is a vacuum sensor one of three that I know of. Please instead of ridicule of my purchase maybe help to diagnose the matter. Maybe provide tips on techniques for negotiating purchases and specifics on what to look for, feel, sounds to listen for etc. would be helpful rather than General "we told you not to and you didn't listen" I believe that I'm very teachable but also believe I'm misunderstood and the motivations and specific matters that have force in my life at least in spirit of experience are unknown to you. I don't have a regular lifestyle, a regular job, living situation and these factors do play a role in timing of decision making. The saying hind sight is 20/20 well that's kind of a thing. I at least somewhat pride myself in not letting things like this eat me up. I perhaps say how I feel blow it off and move on. Stress kills.

 

[borninabus]

my first was a B5.5 wagon and it cost me over 6 grand in less than a year. it still needed trans work too at the time it was totaled but i loved that car so much, that i took my settlement and promptly bought a JSW. so...congratulations on your purchase. i guess you viewed my previous post as debasing, but i'm just trying to be honest and i don't think your life story is what is needed here. sorry if i came off harshly.

but to reiterate: if you want good advice, we need good information. what--other than the shifting incident--makes you think that the car has a timing problem?

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Mis-shifting is unlikely to cause the timing belt to slip, unless you either seriously over-rev it or but a lot of stress on the engine by asking it to come up in revs very suddenly. Even then it would have probably had to have an improperly set tensioner or some other component failure in the timing belt system.

If you haven't attempted to run the car since the incident, you probably shouldn't try now. In that case you need someone with timing belt (and other) tools to check the mechanical timing. I don't know where you are in CA, but hopefully you can find someone who has that capability. Unfortunately, California seems somewhat lacking in TDI experts.

 

[tdihopeful]

Huh you say mis-shift is inlikely to cause timing belt issue. I'm watching a YouTube video and it's a tutorial on diagnosing and repairing timing belt with checking for valve damage. The discription of the car owner was along the lines of died suddenly while driving wont start. I have tried to start it right after it died twice. I then tried again a while later just for only a second. It is such that the car dosen't want to allow me to start it. It took turning the key all the way off to reset and to accept the attempt to start again. There was an accompanying lignt higher pitch kinda grinding sound. Afraid that I damaged lifters/valves trying to restart. Yeah as far as I know I don't have anything much to base my timing is off theory on. I'm going to ask to rent tools from a guy here at the motel and get into it a little today.

 

[hskrdu]

Tow to Brandon at SMS European in Huntington Beach.

 

[tdihopeful]

hskrdu what would a tow like that cost? I appreciate the recommendation but also need to be practical with time and Logistics. I'm needing to return north monday I have to do everything today and tomorrow by mid afternoon.