ALH TDI engine transplant into '84 Vanagon

[nicklockard]

Yep, I coated the inside of the tank with Red Kote. Red Kote is compatible with diesel fuel. Also, the tank was allowed far more than enough time to "cure" before being put in service........ including several hours over several days laying out in the sun. I turned the tank over numerous times to allow the heat to penetrate from various angles. The tank was always put back in the garage at night And, before I ever put it in the sun, a rather large fan from a computer was mounted at the fill hole and ran for 24 hours. I did remove "both" of the permenant in tank filters. I also shortened the return fuel line. I re-connected the up-take fuel line in it's original position in the center bottom section of the tank (snaps into it's hole). Earlier in this Thread, there are several photos showing what I did to prepare the tank as well as the coating process!

Interesting. Dumb question time: what for?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Left Coast Resident]

One thing that will cause hard starting when hot is the IQ being set too high. In VCDS raise the 'metric' (numerical value) to lower the IQ value. Default is 32768; the highest settable value is 32784. If that is not high enough, hammer the IP towards the flywheel end of the engine to lower the IQ value further. You've probably done this before, but for those who haven't, it's a very small movement of the pump.

If you have a long enough OBDII cable to get from your OBD link to the engine, you can set up your VCDS cable / computer in view of the engine, crack loose (very slightly) the 4 IP screws (one of them being the triangular shaped one that takes the special socket), and tap the IQ with a mallet with the engine running. Tightening the screws up will change the IQ on the screen while you watch.

Also, Channel 5 in VCDS (IIRC) controls the hot start metric. It defaults to 32768; you can play with it a bit if you want to.

 

[AndyBees]

Response to comments and Update

Coating the inside of the fuel tank:
1. There's not many 28 year old metal fuel tanks that aren't rusty inside, especially the bottom.
2. I had to get inside to remove the TWO fine mesh permenant filters. That required cutting a huge hole in the bottom of the tank (go back in this Thread and search for tons of photos in the write-up about this topics).
3. Installing the modified Jetta fuel level sensor is easier to access thru the hole!
4. The procedure to re-install the "hole" required some sort of coating to cover the bare metal along the cut............so, I did the entire tank! (You got to see the photos earlier in this Thread.)

Yes, I could have purchased a new tank ........probably cannot get a diesel tank. So, would a new tank have the two filters? Remember the black algae that grows in diesel fuel?........that stuff will clogged those filters.

Yep! Left Coast Resident, I've done a couple of IQ settngs and Hammer mods. Thanks for the tips!

Well, this afternoon, I finished the platform around the engine cover! I also made a small platform for the electronics to sit on under the seat. That allowed me to scoot it back farther which gave room for the lower seat cover (kick board that goes along the bottom of the rear seat)

Okay, we are about to hit the road this evening to calibrate the Dakato Digital for the Speedometer ......... I hope this goes well! I'll report back later tonight on the results!

 

[AndyBees]

Update

Alright, I have Speed-O-Meter which means I have Cruise!

Wow! I never thought this CONTRAPTION would putt along so nice on Cruise!

Now, the no so good.... In Calibrating the Dakata Digital Interface, we got it to work correctly above 40 mph... perfect with GPS. However, as the speed drops below 40 mph, the Speedometer stays faster than the GPS by about 7 mph.....then toward 20 mph the Speedometer is like 10 mph faster!

So, I suppose I need to do some more tweaking or maybe give them a call on their support line!

The platform around the engine cover with added foam, seemed to knock a little more of the engine roar! It's now at a very acceptable level..... I'm happy!

In the morning, I will address the hard start issue!

 

[rackaracka]

I've had to do the Hamman mod (not Hammer) adding a momentary push button and resister to the temp circuit - so the car thinks it's artic cold and starts when warm. It starts the car instantly on the flawed ECUs. I am sure a tuner can do something similar and work around the glitch - but it does work well.

 

[AndyBees]

Monday Morning Update

I've had to do the Hamman mod (not Hammer) adding a momentary push button and resister to the temp circuit - so the car thinks it's artic cold and starts when warm. It starts the car instantly on the flawed ECUs. I am sure a tuner can do something similar and work around the glitch - but it does work well.

Ironically, this engine came from MrGutWrench's wrecked '02 Jetta which supposedly got exceptionally good MPGs......like close to 60 MPG. In our discussions thru PMs here in the club, he never mentioned anything about hard starts. Also, I've noticed that the shudder has all but quit.....like on a scale of 1 to 10, it was at an 8 or 9 and is now below 2. As Dan alluded to, maybe something strange has gone on inside the IP due to not being started for over five years!

One thing I never mentioned in last night's update, as I drove on to the county road from my drive-way, the engine basically shut-down to an idle momentarily! Then all of a sudden it ran just fine for about 5 miles and did the same thing again. It did that several more times before we started tinkering with the Dakota Digital Interface to calibrate the speedometer. It finally quit doing those momentary shut-downs (never did totally go dead).

The Dakota Digital has nothing to do with engine function....so, that is not what's going on there! I'll check the circuits under the back seat at the ECU to see if something got knocked loose while vacuuming the carpet in that area.

Well, we are stirring late this morning. I plan to connect VCDS and check it out, run some errands today, wash off the garage dust, etc. Then late this evening, we will pack and head out on a road trip that will eventually lead us to Ypislanti on 8/31~!

 

[jackbombay]

One thing I never mentioned in last night's update, as I drove on to the county road from my drive-way, the engine basically shut-down to an idle momentarily! Then all of a sudden it ran just fine for about 5 miles and did the same thing again.

Were you driving on a rough section of road when it happened? If so I bet its your brake pedal bouncing a bit opening the brake pedal switch, with your foot on the brake the engine will drop to idle everytime.

 

[jimbote]

Were you driving on a rough section of road when it happened? If so I bet its your brake pedal bouncing a bit opening the brake pedal switch, with your foot on the brake the engine will drop to idle everytime.

clutch switch will do the same thing iirc.... Hey Andy I'm having intermittent problems on my swap with the engine going into a limp mode.... sets a code for implausible pedal sensor.... have you scanned after the incident?

 

[jackbombay]

clutch switch will do the same thing iirc....

The clutch shouldn't do the same thing as you need to be able to bring the RPMs up with the clutch depressed.

 

[DanG144]

The clutch shouldn't do the same thing as you need to be able to bring the RPMs up with the clutch depressed.

The clutch will while on cruise control.

 

[AndyBees]

Update and comments

Wow! Thanks for the input! I bet you guys are right about the Clutch and/or Brake switches! I've been getting an implausible signal code on the brake switch.... which sometimes causes the GP light to flash. I probably need to set-up a different light bulb for the ECU to monitor thru the brake system circuits. My set-up is "sloppy" at best! Also, there is a little slack/slop at the brake switch contact at the pedal. I'm pretty well convienced that the Clutch switch is okay. The circuits must be okay, as the cruise does deactivate when I press on either the brake or clutch pedals.

This morning when I hooked up VCDS, although the CEL was not on, there was a code for implausible accelerator signal. So, I'm thinking one of my connections under the back seat may have been comprimised when I made a 1.5 inch high wooden platform to sit the unit on. This issue had not been there until I did that! In fact, the first incident was after I left my drive-way onto the county road (nice and smooth).

Well, I tell you, I've ate more darn Crow lately! ........... David Marshall, you are so right about the exhaust system! Without all the details, I spent a good portion of the day modifying/improving it!

I'm a little concerned about the Turbo.... oil showing up at the discharge pipe at the Turbo! I used hydraulic hose clamps on the pipe that already fits tight. I noticed this issue last week when I was taking things off, re-installing, etc. There's no crankcase gases going thru the Air Intake system, thus no oil from them. The E-Vac Scavenger seems to be working. I only have a piece of paper towel in the metal stub Dip Stick tube on the side of the block... It is not oily nor has it ever blown out in over 300 miles! So, I do not think there is excess crankcase blow-by pressure, probably just the opposite! Maybe the amount of oil showing up on the discharge side of the Turbo is typical loss by the two sealing rings. Assuming my Turbo Boost Gauge is correct, I've seen 17 to 19 PSI spikes! But, it mostly tops out at about 15 PSI.

Gees! Sorting out all the bugs sure is a challenge!

 

[Kriesel]

I need to come up with some sort of sound deadening insulation for the engine cover........Ideas are welcome!

As far as sound deadening goes - I used to use Dynamat sound deadaning material when I worked at a car audio and alarm shop. They make a "pro" series of product that has a layer of foil covering the tar paper like self adhesive product. It comes in rolls. The last time I used it I bought a "door kit" from some online source like crutch field. It is heat proof (You use a heat gun and a small wooden roller or mallet to install it) and should stay put once its installed. I've used it on roofs, doors, floors, under hoods, trunklids. They also used to make a hood liner product that was about 3/4" thick foam with a foil finish on the surface - designed to deaden engine sounds. I am not a huge fan of that product, but it does look nice.

Ditto on the Dynamat... There are some other cheaper brands out there, but a little google searching shows that the others don't hold up to heat, and become un-sticky in time. I would stick to Dynamat, you get what you pay for...

In the pic below, you can see the "engine side" of the cover. Look close and you can see a divider/support located 12 inches from each side. The insulation consists of two layers of drop ceiling tile (reduces noise by 55%, so the ad claimed) and car dash reflective cover. The "saggy" looking area in the left part of the center section is actually cut-out in the tile underneath reflective cover to accomodate the Oil Filter Housing and Injection Pump......but, they do not touch it! It seems to work okay. The engine noise was tremendiously reduced as well as heat!..........we'll see how this works out!

I guess you really wanted to go cheap on the sound deadening...

I like that you ask for ideas a lot, but it seems you don't discuss others' ideas after they are given. I've noticed it more than once in this thread. Not saying you are wrong in anything you've done so far (because your project is turning out), but if you don't want ideas, don't ask... Or discuss your reasons for not using certain ideas maybe... Food for thought.

Keep up the work, post more videos.

 

[AndyBees]

Response

I guess you really wanted to go cheap on the sound deadening...

I like that you ask for ideas a lot, but it seems you don't discuss others' ideas after they are given. I've noticed it more than once in this thread. Not saying you are wrong in anything you've done so far (because your project is turning out), but if you don't want ideas, don't ask... Or discuss your reasons for not using certain ideas maybe... Food for thought.

Keep up the work, post more videos.

Thanks for the insight!

 

[Kriesel]

I know sound deadening is expensive, and is likely a bucket list item, and you can replace what you have installed later with better stuff...

Is this what you plan to do?

Sorry for sounding negative, just want to hear your expanded thoughts when you ask for input, when you have time to comment. (positive criticism)

 

[AndyBees]

I never priced it (Dynamat)! .............price was not considered when addressing the insulation! Desperation was at the top of the list (as you know) due to time constraints! Actually, price has never been an option when purchasing pieces parts, etc., for the project. And, as you are aware, I did shop locally for "anything" but came up empty handed!

The tile idea come from a guy that had used it in an off-road contraption that he made several years go that runs a Cummins engine! It was a fluke that I bumped into him or that the project became a topic of discussion.

As I stated, the tile seems to have worked! And, since this is a project in the making and will be on-going for quite some time, the deck lid insulation can be re-addressed later!

So, a belated thanks to all those who provided suggestions relating to sound deadened insulation (and to those locally) or anything else that I may have overlooked or ignored!

 

[AndyBees]

Setting IQ with VCDS

One thing that will cause hard starting when hot is the IQ being set too high. In VCDS raise the 'metric' (numerical value) to lower the IQ value. Default is 32768; the highest settable value is 32784. If that is not high enough, hammer the IP towards the flywheel end of the engine to lower the IQ value further. You've probably done this before, but for those who haven't, it's a very small movement of the pump.

If you have a long enough OBDII cable to get from your OBD link to the engine, you can set up your VCDS cable / computer in view of the engine, crack loose (very slightly) the 4 IP screws (one of them being the triangular shaped one that takes the special socket), and tap the IQ with a mallet with the engine running. Tightening the screws up will change the IQ on the screen while you watch.

Also, Channel 5 in VCDS (IIRC) controls the hot start metric. It defaults to 32768; you can play with it a bit if you want to.

Thanks for the info! I've done this adjustment both with VCDS and the Hammer Mod on other vehicles. Unfortunately, the other day, I went in the wrong direction with the VCDS. I'll be making the change in the next ten minutes.

The pics below and comments are on page 31 at Post 461.

Below are a couple of them. This is at the the engine in the rear... The OBD "pigtail" can be stored in the glove box until needed! I also have an OBD on the dash! Ironically, only one will function at a time. In other words, I cannot have the LapTop running Ross-Tech VCDS on one OBD while the ScanGauge is running on the other. One of them will quit (the Ross-Tech, apparently due to a weak signal)!

 

[AndyBees]

Update on engine and more

Engine
The shuddering that I mentioned several days ago, stopped completely (not long after I posted the info).

At idle, the engine stays right on 903 RPM.

Setting the Injection Quantity from one extreme to the other (3.2 to 5.2) with VCDS did not help with the hard start issue. And, today, I did purchase a brand new 780cc amp battery that spins the engine really fast! I'm going to do the hammer mod in the morning to see if that helps!

The issue I mentioned about the engine shuting-off (down to idle) then all of a sudden return to normal was the brake switch ..... thanks to whoever gave that tip.

One of my small oil leaks is from the AC compressor. Remember, I had to take the back off the compressor to remove a valve that's unique to later model compressors! It's not a really bad leak, but there! Another leak "was" coming from the drain plug...fixed that! Oh, and the AC system is working great!

I think the exhaust system is now strong enough to use for pulling...

Now the more
Well, tomorrow, we plan to commence a road trip to see how this thing is going to perform. If all goes well the first day, we will keep on a keeping-on until we end up at Ypsilanti on August 31st. If I do a Road Trip thread, I'll mention it here with the link. Or, you can look under the Road Trip category to see if I've started one ......... no iPod here, so it will be wherever we get WiFi!

 

[rackaracka]

Andy, the Hammer mod adjusts fuel quantity and can help with overfueling or underfueling conditions that cause things like slow down shudder. The Hamman mod is a momentary pushbutton resister tied into the coolant temp signal. The 99.5 ecu was plagued with a flaw that causes exactly what you are describing. I just want to make sure you were aware of this in case you cannot resolve this by IQ adaptation or mechanical adjustment of the IP.

 

[AndyBees]

Iq

Andy, the Hammer mod adjusts fuel quantity and can help with overfueling or underfueling conditions that cause things like slow down shudder. The Hamman mod is a momentary pushbutton resister tied into the coolant temp signal. The 99.5 ecu was plagued with a flaw that causes exactly what you are describing. I just want to make sure you were aware of this in case you cannot resolve this by IQ adaptation or mechanical adjustment of the IP.

One thing I forgot to mention in the last update/comments, I did change the engine new temp sensor back to the old one that was in it.

As you may recall, the temp gauge never goes above the 10:30 point (half way between cold and straight-up 190.). However, ScanGauge shows normal temp. With the new temp sensor, it was showing up to 188F. I noticed yesterday on a long hill that ScanGauge was showing 191F with the old sensor. But, the gauge still will not go past the 10:30 point!

Yes, this thing is puzzling to me! I suppose my old 2000 Jetta engine has just been exceptional. Right now, at 310k miles, with nothing done to the IP or Injectors (no fuel additives), it will start immediately!

Well, I'll post performance info here (and problems). I just hope I don't have to call on a guru along the way!

 

[jjordan11]

Andy, if you read the measured value blocks for address 17 (instrument cluster) with VCDS what does it say the temperature is? I'm sure you know the ECT sensor has two separate sending units built in, one for the engine control module and one for the instrument cluster. Anyways, it might be worth comparing the readings between the two addresses (01 & 17).

This would not be for the hard start issue, only for the deviation between the scan gauge and the cluster. Perhaps there is too much wire between the ECT and cluster? Causing a voltage drop and lower readings on the cluster.

Very good work on your project, I'm a bit jealous of your A/C. It's been on my list to do, but that list is getting too long.

Jon

 

[AndyBees]

Updat ...comments

Jon, thanks for the bits on the ECT sensor. I certainly wouldn't have thought about the voltage drop........makes sense! Yes, I am aware of the two circuits in the ECT sensor.....sort of hard to explain to someone whose Temp gauge is working properly but the engine runs like crap due to overfueling caused by the other side of the Temp sensor going kaput and defaulting at -40F!

Well, we made it to West Kentucky (Lake Barkley Lodge)...... There were a few problems along the way! The worst was my temporary plug in the OE dipstick tube came out.........Wow! Oil everywhere! Luckily, I caught the problem early and found a nice car wash! A little oil looks like a lot and can make a 'ell of a mess!

The cruise is awesome! However, I have got to do something with the brake switch. That thing is a PITA with bumps in the road causes the cruise to kick-out. And, sometimes the switch will not close, so as I begin to attempt to accelerate from being stopped, no power!

Yes, the AC has worked flawlessly! I'm very pleased with it....thanks big time to Mark for the tip on removing the variable valve from inside the compressor! Although my old '83 Van with the Air-cooled engine had AC, there is no comparison!

Well, as Mark said, small trips first to catch all those "gotchas!"

A little humor ........... the 215/75/15 tires rubbed in front. So, I just re-installed the 205/75/14 tires and wheels on the front. Now the vehicle is about an inch lower in front ........... but, it seems to work fine! I did have to re-calibrate the speedometer!

The tire/wheel issue will have to be addressed! I need longer studs/bolts, Mercedes or Audi wheels and maybe spacers too ...... lots of reading in the Samba on this topic!

 

[jackbombay]

I have got to do something with the brake switch. That thing is a PITA with bumps in the road causes the cruise to kick-out. And, sometimes the switch will not close, so as I begin to attempt to accelerate from being stopped, no power!

That is a pretty easy fix.

 

[AndyBees]

Comments

Actually, the brake switch problem is a pedal issue. Seems it has got stiff and returns to the UP position very slow and not always enough to shut-off the switch. The first 300 miles there was not a problem. Today, I've noticed closely as to how the pedal has rebounded.....not well at all! The pivot may need oiling. Re-setting the switch would be my last choice! It is an OE for the Jetta and requires expert attention for "setting!"

Well, the second full tank of diesel yielded a little over 31 mpg. 279.7 miles (GPS) on 8.812 gallons .......would not hold anymore.

We did have an issue with the gear shifter linkage last night/this morning. I lost reverse. Although the linkage is splined, apparently the clamp really needs to be knuckle skinning tight. Due to the height of the Vanagon, I was able to slide under and do the adjustments....works fine now (and I did not skin my knuckles, double wrenched for a cheater)....

 

[mlemorie]

Good to hear its not too much of a problem child. I know its not ideal, but what about running a staggered setup for the tires? I know it would prevent rotation, but you would have the larger diameter you want, and then the clearance in the front that you need.

 

[AndyBees]

Good to hear its not too much of a problem child. I know its not ideal, but what about running a staggered setup for the tires? I know it would prevent rotation, but you would have the larger diameter you want, and then the clearance in the front that you need.

The tire issue is temporary! I just need to obtain a set of rims, spacers (if necessary), and longer studs/bolts. The tires seemed okay when the vehicle was raised up at the tire shop. When the vehicle was let down, the top A-frame barely rubbed the tire on the inside. I found the issue the next when I noticed a non-damaging ring on the sidewall.....

 

[AndyBees]

Update/Comments

Well, we are back at the Ponderosa! I decided to swing back home to address some of the gremlins that keep nagging at us and the Vanagon!

Although we had plenty of fuel, it's hard to pass up a good buy. So, at the last fill-up, 212.1 GPS miles, it took 6.148 gallons to completely full.... 34.49 mpg. That involved about 90% on-the-road miles running at about 60 mph average with AC on. Most of the roads had 55 mph speed limits. I did do about 20% at 65 mph and a little faster but never over 70 mph. And, we are loaded pretty heavy (wife, brought everything but the kitchen sink).

It seems that the sweet spot is between 63 and 67 as far as road and engine noise. On the level and slight inclines the engine noise is barely noticeable! So, running 70 mph would be okay! The roar or resonance is most noticeable in the 35 to 45 mph range in 4th gear........as it moves up and away from 45 mph the engine really smooths out. At 65 mph, the RPMs hang around 2875, based on ScanGauge!

Tomorrow, I plan to address several problems.

1. Oil leak(s) ....... drain plug (Gees, give me a break), and what appears to be around the pan to block on the Turbo side near the TB end and in the center along the dip-stick side of the engine. Also, the rear oil filler tube leaks a little where the top plastic piece fits on to it (see previous photos several posts back). There may be a leak here or there in the weld seams.......not really sure! And, to settle my mind (and those thinking out-loud), I plan to test the E-Vac System at high RPMs. Previously, I only tested it with the engine at idle, which proved to be okay! I don't think it was the reason for the temporary "paper towel plug" to come out of the OE dip stick tube and cause the oil mess. That paper towel plug was in very loose and hand been there for weeks!

2. Brake pedal not popping back to the top position. It got worse all day long.....really irritating in stop and go situations! As you may know, if the brake switch is activated, the ECU cuts fueling to an idle, even if the accelerator is on the floor........and, no cruise!

3. Overhead AC duct to the front needs re-postioned. Apparently when I had it out thinking the Expansion Valve was plugged, I didn't get it pushed forward enough to install the screws in the correct holes (not a big deal, just needs addressed).

4. Install an in-line cut-off valve for the heater coolant........ the OE valve lets a small amout of coolant circulate .....warm feet! Otherwise, the AC handled the issue just fine. I did know this was a problem before hitting the road. I manually pushed the valve closed. But, apparently it still allows some flow due to age! The rear heater valve works like a champ!

5. Add a charge of oil to the AC ....... gut feeling that would be a good idea! The AC really is impressive...... the compressor kicks on and off quite nicely. As I previously noted, I did install a green LED on the dash to reflect when the compressor is in operation.

6. The InterCooler fan needs to be changed to Ignition Switched Power with a relay. That thing can run on for 10 minutes after the engine is cut-off!.....especially on these 90F + days!

I'm sure there is something I'm forgetting at the moment!

So far, the plexi-glas barrier at the InterCooler is holding up okay.....no cracks, yet!

 

[Ski in NC]

Good luck on the de-bugging!!! All sounds really positive so far. 30+mpg on a vanagon. Kudos.

 

[AndyBees]

Comments

Gees! I need a break!

Today, after a late start, I removed and thoroughly cleaned the oil pan ........ no time for the welder~! So, I dabbed JB Weld on any place I thought that it might be leaking. Re-installed with fresh oil pan glue and got an excellent bead all around. Then I dumped in fresh oil .......low and behold, there's a hair-line crack about the center of the pan. Apparently the crack is a result of welding-in the baffles which were basically tacked. With oil slightly ozzing out, regular JB Weld would not work. I cleaned and immediately smeared/dabbed JB Weld on to no avail!

So, I tried the JB Weld "stuff" that's in a roll which requires cutting-off what you need and knead it for a few minutes then stick it where you want it. It seems to be holding for now. Obviously, the oil pan needs to go to the welder! (maybe a new re-make later!)

Lastly, something zapped my new battery last night/today. The key(s) were off! I'm thinking probably the bulb for the brake switch that the ECU monitors..... or the door lights. The brake switch is most likely the culprit!

Grimlins all around me for the moment!

 

[whitedog]

Grimlins all around me for the moment!

I heard that the microwave takes care of them.

 

[Ski in NC]

Here's a trick for jb weld on oil pans: Put a shop vac on the oil fill cap hole and leave it running drawing a suction on the whole crankcase. Then sand and acetone clean around the leak. Hopefully, the vac will keep leak going in and keep oil from your cleaned area. If it stays clean, then the jb should get a good bond. Gotta leave the vac on a long time for that, but worth a try.