5-spd swapped wagon, I luv wagons, working through issues

[CantWrite]

Hello All,

I have been a long time lurker and gave up my ALH(s) after compromising with the wife and realized I have just dove into the shallow end of the kiddie pool. (I am 6'5" and the kids are getting taller. I literally removed the seat bottom out of my '03 Jetta Wagon to fit the kids.)

I currently have the following issues/faults and would appreciate some help, either pointing to threads I missed or "guiding" my learning. (I saved the scans) Vehicle: 2005 Passat TDI Wagon, 5-spd swapped (03T).

• Address-1: P0672 (GP#2) Electrical Fault. (my plan here is to continue searching and reading)
• Temp Gauge on instrument cluster not working. Off of memory, I went to OBD-II > Mode 1 "Read Data" > Block 3 I believe to see what the computer was seeing for engine temperature with the vehicle running. It was mostly 0*C and sometimes populating with actual current temp, or what I believed to be.
• Address-3: 01435 - Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201). I hear a faint hissing sound, almost like speaker static above the fuel pedal. Goes away when I step on the brake and then will return. Shutting the car down I can hear it for a few seconds and then the brake pedal is hard. After reading, this sounds like the bladder in the booster is going bad.
• Emissions Workshop pops up intermittently. I am not sure if this ties into the 2 above, but I do notice that my EGR components are oily compared to the videos/pictures I have seen of others. (I searched and read, much more needed, but I seem not to have any of the codes that others are having.) Does not seem down on power
• I noticed oil on the bottom of the oil cooler, upon further inspection and after driving it for the first time (15 miles), it appears the oil filter cap is cracked where the hex head meets the shoulder/flange that butts up against the aluminum housing. I see old oil stains running down the aluminum housing.

Rather than ordering unnecessary parts, I would appreciate some guidance on where to start from those in the know. I have VCDS, Digital Manual, Descent set of Tools, Mighty Vac, Fluke 117 & 362, Test Light.

What I know about the swap:

• 03T trans was used (good/bad/meh?), although i cannot find much info about this trans, I think its from B5 Passats in Europe, I could only come up with one descent result from google and it talked about right hand drive units with this trans in England.....
• Spoke with the guy who did the swap, he believes RC1 Tune, original cam, he did not do a BSM delete, rather he replaced the chain, tensioner, key, and sprockets. He mentioned he rode in a B5 that was deleted and he did not like the additional vibrations. Since I shorted myself, I guess I will just drive it until it starts making the tell-tale chain noise. Timing Belt, Manual swap done at 150k, now at 187k.

Please ask any additional questions, sorry for the long post, I am a shift worker and currently on nights. What I do know after spending some time with it is that I have found my "forever" wagon!

 

[CantWrite]

https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/coolant-temp-gauge-not-working-co.489882/page-2

Found this thread regarding temp gauge and it lays it out pretty clearly, grab the sensor, o-ring, and tandem pump gasket and get to work (I have G12 on hand). Anything else I should check while I am in there?

I was measuring 17-instrument in live data and it was intermittent 0's with erroneous data otherwise.

I will also follow Windex's advice as to plug in the sensor before removing it to makes sure good data is read and wires are not broken somewhere.

Also thanks for putting up with me, the closest guru is 6 hours drive.

 

[mozark]

Emissions Workshop can be due to the temp sensor. Can also be early sign of a boost leak. Among other things.

I'd suggest removing each boost hose. Inspect for splits. (IMHO replace if aftermarket) Replace o-rings if there is excessive oil at the fitting with adjacent component.

If you are digging in to the coolant flange you will have the throttle off and the egr half exposed. Inspect for bad seals, and proper function of throttle and egr valve.

 

[hskrdu]

I know you don't want to throw parts at it, but if it were my car, I'd make a list of age-related items that are need of replacement and spend a day (or three) knocking those out. Even with "low" mileage, many items that are original are now good candidates for refresh, and will save you the headache of trying to troubleshoot a myriad number of related problems. For example, I would get some OE vacuum line and methodically replace each section one at a time. As you go, you can check other vacuum fittings and connections. This alone will save you numerous headaches over the next 5 years. I'd replace the glow plugs, and check the harness/wiring as you go, etc. I know that's not super-specific to your car's issues, but a vac leak alone will have you chasing numerous codes.

In you first post, please add the year to the model, which may help others.

 

[CantWrite]

Mozark,

All the boost pipes are OEM, after reading some more, looks like the 2 to really pay attention too are the pipe from the turbo to the crossover and the "L" pipe at the firewall right before it goes into the intake. All the connections appear to be "seeping" a little, so O-rings all around will be ordered. I also have a make-shift smoke machine, will plug the exhaust, pull the boost hose of the turbo and see if I can get it to appear, that will be done tonight if I do not get too tired. I also read on another post that some people used a napa boost clamp because the factory hoses clamps cannot seal modified tunes very well. Thoughts?

Also read where you can do a VNT actuator test in basic settings, will look more into that. The car does not seem down on power, but did really smoke on the first couple hard pulls. Then when I tried to make it smoke, I could not.

Regarding throttle and EGR function, car drove perfectly, which tells me that the throttle should be working, I will look more into the EGR valve, operation, and how dirty it is.

Thank you very much!

 

[CantWrite]

hskrdu,

I added my vehicle to the post, I thought I posted in the B5 section, but forgot that you can see all new posts.

I am not wealthy, but have some cash to spare, so buying parts is not an issue. Thing is, this swap was done 37k ago and looks well done. This motor does not have near the leaks compared to my MK4's. The vacuum lines look new, and are the OEM braided type, pulling on them appears that each one is well seated. Although there doesn't seem to be many hoses at all, when I put my parts list together, I will include some hose.

Looking again I noticed the lower side of the valve cover gasket is weeping, which could be my cause for the oily EGR, Oil Pan NOT leaking or even seeping. Motor mounts look great, Trans mounts look brand new, no "purple fluid". The mount at the front bottom of the engine has some missing rubber towards the bottom, nothing drastic, would you replace that one? I was thinking all mounts should be replaced together.

I guess pictures are worth a thousand words and should get some uploaded.

Thanks for your time.

 

[hskrdu]

Ok- I was picturing a B5 in need of numerous refresh items, but it sounds like you received it in decent condition. I mention the vac lines and GPs only because those are items than can be replaced for cheap and may be connected to some of your codes, plus, after 15 years many OE items are tired out. I've only replaced motor mounts as a set, but that was because all were worn out (family MkIV gasser with no belly pan).

You posted in the right section, I just didn't see the model year to the left, under the member avatar. I might have just missed it at the end of the Jetta Wagon line. Although this a Canadian site, we have members from all over, so the model year helps when replying.

Wish I could add more but I don't know your platform as well as the ALH. Some of the B5 owners will chime in when they find this. Pictures (in general) will also generate views.

 

[CantWrite]

Via VCDS:
I verified (G62) is reading engine coolant temp properly. Previous owner stated the temp gauge was intermittent towards the end of his ownership.
I verified (N75) solenoid is working properly via output tests, it would moved from 96.4% down to around 4%, I could physically watch it move
I believe I found my boost leak, at the connection leaving the top of the SMIC. Although when running the the VNT test I could hear a slight hissing sound down near the solenoid, would that be vacuum or boost leak? It did not sound whooshing or vacuum related, it sounded more like a very high pitched hiss, I was thinking pressure equalization when the VNT was being forced through its range of motion.....

I observed:
Injection Quantity ranging from (-0.07 mg/str to 0.09 mg/str) with G62 reading 37.8C. (idle: 924 r/min)
During engine warm-up: MAF (specified): 505.0 mg/str vs (actual) 390.0 mg/str with 100.6 EGR duty cycle.
I ran the ABS pump through its output tests and everything appeared normal, not faults found.

I ordered:
Tandem Pump Gasket/bolts, 3mm/5mm ID vacuum hose, EGR Valve Seal, EGR Paper Gasket, EGR Metal Gasket, EGR Seal Small, Valve Cover Gasket, CTS Green 4-pin w/ Seal,Clip; Turbo Oil Return Line Gasket ,Turbo Oil Feed Banjo Washer, Oil Filter Spindle Cap, Intercooler Seal Kit, Map Sensor O-ring.

 

[zzdiesel]

If the car is high miles I would have a tendency to replace the tandem pump since you will have it off anyway and it is a PITA. I just did one, I think it was 130 ish from Rock auto.

 

[Mozambiquer]

Hello All,

I have been a long time lurker and gave up my ALH(s) after compromising with the wife and realized I have just dove into the shallow end of the kiddie pool. (I am 6'5" and the kids are getting taller. I literally removed the seat bottom out of my '03 Jetta Wagon to fit the kids.)

I currently have the following issues/faults and would appreciate some help, either pointing to threads I missed or "guiding" my learning. (I saved the scans) Vehicle: 2005 Passat TDI Wagon, 5-spd swapped (03T).

• Address-1: P0672 (GP#2) Electrical Fault. (my plan here is to continue searching and reading)
• Temp Gauge on instrument cluster not working. Off of memory, I went to OBD-II > Mode 1 "Read Data" > Block 3 I believe to see what the computer was seeing for engine temperature with the vehicle running. It was mostly 0*C and sometimes populating with actual current temp, or what I believed to be.
• Address-3: 01435 - Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201). I hear a faint hissing sound, almost like speaker static above the fuel pedal. Goes away when I step on the brake and then will return. Shutting the car down I can hear it for a few seconds and then the brake pedal is hard. After reading, this sounds like the bladder in the booster is going bad.
• Emissions Workshop pops up intermittently. I am not sure if this ties into the 2 above, but I do notice that my EGR components are oily compared to the videos/pictures I have seen of others. (I searched and read, much more needed, but I seem not to have any of the codes that others are having.) Does not seem down on power
• I noticed oil on the bottom of the oil cooler, upon further inspection and after driving it for the first time (15 miles), it appears the oil filter cap is cracked where the hex head meets the shoulder/flange that butts up against the aluminum housing. I see old oil stains running down the aluminum housing.

Rather than ordering unnecessary parts, I would appreciate some guidance on where to start from those in the know. I have VCDS, Digital Manual, Descent set of Tools, Mighty Vac, Fluke 117 & 362, Test Light.

What I know about the swap:

• 03T trans was used (good/bad/meh?), although i cannot find much info about this trans, I think its from B5 Passats in Europe, I could only come up with one descent result from google and it talked about right hand drive units with this trans in England.....
• Spoke with the guy who did the swap, he believes RC1 Tune, original cam, he did not do a BSM delete, rather he replaced the chain, tensioner, key, and sprockets. He mentioned he rode in a B5 that was deleted and he did not like the additional vibrations. Since I shorted myself, I guess I will just drive it until it starts making the tell-tale chain noise. Timing Belt, Manual swap done at 150k, now at 187k.

Please ask any additional questions, sorry for the long post, I am a shift worker and currently on nights. What I do know after spending some time with it is that I have found my "forever" wagon!

The emissions workshop can come on for low boost caused by low vacuum. Personally had that on one of my passats. It had a vacuum leak at the vacuum pump. Replaced that section and all was good. Welcome to the passats! There's a lot of us that really like them here! I've got three wagons, sadly all three still automatic, but they're still fun and great cars with a bad rap because of camshafts and balance shafts. Also, because a lot of people don't understand them.

 

[CantWrite]

Thanks everyone!

Looking at the Tandem Pump, the top looks great, the lower portion is covered in oil seepage, so I assume its original, and the owner who did the swap at 150K said he did not replace the pump. I have not searched their lifespan. I need to also order an oil fill cap as the O-ring is flattened enough that I think it seeps a little, that or someone pours from a 5-gallon bucket without a funnel.

ZZ, I looked on Rock Auto and it appears you got the last one cause my search resulted in zero supply. ID has one for around $300, is that just mark-up? Sometimes I have a hard time trusting Rock-Auto, and prefer to deal with someone I can actually speak to and has OEM supplier of parts. Might be my cynical viewpoint coming into play.

Mozam, was your vacuum leak a hose, or the actual tandem pump? I need to remove the wipers, and cowl to check for vacuum leaks and the age of the battery. Plus I found the hold down in the glove-box. How can one be so lazy as to not bolt the hold-down back in....? Is there an easy way to check for vacuum leaks? besides listening, like on a gas engine where you can spray a combustible and watch for RPM rise?

I just hooked up my LOW PSI repurposed "smoke" machine. Plugged exhaust, inserted it at the Turbo Inlet Tube where it disconnects from the airbox. This was prolly a mistake, as I could not see any visible smoke from the IC piping. I assume it was filling the exhaust and the top of the engine. When I pulled the plugs, plenty of smoke came out of the exhaust and inlet tube.

If I am going to order an oil fill cap, and potentially a Tandem Pump. Does the EGR tube going from the cooler to the valve require paper or metal gaskets? I assume metal, and I only ordered 1 of those, and it looks like it takes the same gasket on each end.

 

[CantWrite]

The little I have driven this wagon, I am going to LOVE it, the MK4 cars do not compare in my opinion. The 50+ mpg was awesome, but the added room and luxury in my mid-life will be a worthy trade-off.

I literally found this car's twin in Fruita CO, except it has leather interior (nothing torn) and wood grain handles and console trim. For $700 with a blown engine, but my lovely wife will NOT support me buying it and storing it. The engine locked up on him while driving, my guess is the chain broke, lost oil pressure and locked the engine, or maybe the cam broke, which seems unlikely to me. He cannot bar the engine over, and the TB looks perfect....? Car lived its whole life garaged in Vail CO.

 

[CantWrite]

https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.ph...gining-to-weep-how-much-time-do-i-got.302965/

Found this post, so I went and looked, touched every grease grimed fuel line I could, long skinny hands found none smelled like diesel and all smelled of faint old oil/dirt mix. Coolant lines appear to have been replaced, I assume when the swap was completed 37k ago. They are not spongy and do not look swollen. The pump, or something near it has been seeping oil for awhile though.

The post above talks about another layer added to the rabbit hole, an updated version of the EGR cooler, the MK-6 version..? I tried to find part numbers but had no luck, so I am not sure what version I have. On a different post, there was a lot of talk about warrantied tandem pumps, what happened, and I guess the only way to tell for sure is to call a VW dealer and ask about completed warranty items on my VIN.

2-things, how long do Tandem Pumps Last, how long do lift pumps last? Will a failed lift pump stress and cause premature failure of the tandem pump? I can hear mine prime prior to starting the vehicle.

Which begs another question, why did they stray away from the VE injection pump? More power coupled with less NVH?

I do not mind ordering a Tandem Pump, but would hate to replace it just for the sake of replacing it since I am in there when its $250+. Maybe the manual states something. I am verbal puking cause its late and I am delirious, I need to go re-install my airbox.

 

[mozark]

Small sample size answer to your tandem pump question. The TP in the Silver Wagon that I've owned since new is original and functions without issue at 230K. The TP on the otherwise beautiful engine that I swapped into the Blue Wagon last fall was seeping badly at 191K. The 169K TP from the Blue Wagon is now on the donor engine and functioning fine.

Ironically, I bought the Blue wagon last summer down in the Virginia Tidewater for $700 with a bad engine. GLS but not Leather with the Wood trim. My Silver wagon is leather/wood and I wish I could find another, like one like you describe, lol.

 

[Mozambiquer]

The little I have driven this wagon, I am going to LOVE it, the MK4 cars do not compare in my opinion. The 50+ mpg was awesome, but the added room and luxury in my mid-life will be a worthy trade-off.

I literally found this car's twin in Fruita CO, except it has leather interior (nothing torn) and wood grain handles and console trim. For $700 with a blown engine, but my lovely wife will NOT support me buying it and storing it. The engine locked up on him while driving, my guess is the chain broke, lost oil pressure and locked the engine, or maybe the cam broke, which seems unlikely to me. He cannot bar the engine over, and the TB looks perfect....? Car lived its whole life garaged in Vail CO.

Don't tell me about that... I've got too many cars as it is. All three of my passats are gls TDI wagons, but only the one is the leather with wood trim. Its also the lowest miles one. I'm the second owner of it, but it's on my list of vehicles to repair, as it needs a camshaft. The Colt cam that's in it had a case hardened lobe and wore out. I'll be getting one from franko6, but gotta get a few other cars done first.

 

[zzdiesel]

So I just checked Rock Auto. They have it, Pierberg, for 197.00 Either it has gone up or I have a failed memory of what I paid. On question of longevity,, the one my wife drives has 1/4 million miles on the original. The one I drive has 180000, and might be original. The one on the wagon that I just changed was at 130000. On the three I have not changed an in tank pump.

 

[CantWrite]

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...762,fuel+&+air,diesel+fuel+injector+pump,6013

Says its out of stock.....? What am I missing

Thanks for the info regarding the in-tank pump and the TP

 

[CantWrite]

Mozam,

So not even the colt cams are immune to premature failure. What is it about Frank06 cams that are better? Reason I ask is I am sure I will be replacing a cam at some point and need to remember this info.

Mozark,

thanks for the info, was it seeping diesel? Maybe I will just clean it up and replace the gasket, check it over and move forward. If it needs to stay down for longer waiting on parts, its not the end of the world. I always have my 12 mpg gutless 91 V2500 suburban to fall back on, which I have a turbo'd 6.2l/NV4500 swap planned. Parts collected, minus turbo. The TBI 350 is just so gutless at this elevation.

ONE OF YOU TWO NEED TO MAKE A ROAD TRIP, I have photos of it and looks clean, only needs a rear bumper cover.

 

[Mozambiquer]

Mozam,

So not even the colt cams are immune to premature failure. What is it about Frank06 cams that are better? Reason I ask is I am sure I will be replacing a cam at some point and need to remember this info.

Mozark,

thanks for the info, was it seeping diesel? Maybe I will just clean it up and replace the gasket, check it over and move forward. If it needs to stay down for longer waiting on parts, its not the end of the world. I always have my 12 mpg gutless 91 V2500 suburban to fall back on, which I have a turbo'd 6.2l/NV4500 swap planned. Parts collected, minus turbo. The TBI 350 is just so gutless at this elevation.

ONE OF YOU TWO NEED TO MAKE A ROAD TRIP, I have photos of it and looks clean, only needs a rear bumper cover.

Main things that are better about the @Franko6 cams, and he'll be able to tell you more, but they are chromium plated on the bearing journals, they come with the upgraded bearings, and a break in kit. They also have the reusable bolts that come with it. Another one is that you don't have to get them from Kermatdi. I know Frank told me several of the other things, but can't recall off the top of my head.
One of the reasons I'm going for his, is that he's only a couple of hours from me and I also like supporting local businesses.

 

[CantWrite]

That sounds great about his cams, do they come with lifters, or do you just replace the worn ones with OEM? Being in there I would be apt to replace the lifters as well. Course, I have only done cams on push-rod (OHV) engines

 

[Franko6]

Can'tWrite,

Seth must have ID'd me on this post. I am the guy who put his cam kit together. If you like, I'd be happy to send you the quote to your email.

We get asked often enough if we have a website. Word of mouth keeps us PLENTY busy. So if you would like to work with us, either call, PM or email. We request your contact information: Name, Address, Phone Number Yr/ Model of vehicle, VIN and mileage can be helpful... and we will respond with our quote.

And....Thank you, Seth.

 

[Franko6]

BTW: The tandem pumps, we have some in stock, both new and used. Most of the time we find people 'throwing money at a problem' and the tandem pump can be such an item. Very seldom to we replace. Most often we repair.

 

[CantWrite]

Frank,

I now understand what the @ symbol does. Car is at 187k, valve cover coming off for gasket replacement, tandem pump coming off for CTS replacement, will inspect/mic the cam and mic, inspect the T.P., sounds like there is a seal kit, but I could not smell diesel on anything. TB was done at 150K along with the manual swap, I know the wrong oil was used for the last 37K (M1 European Formula 0w-40). If I need a cam, or better when I do, we will be talking. I am trying to space out all my repairs at this point.

I am working through a suspected boost leak and a vacuum leak, as well as the instrument temp gauge. Oh and a GP-2 fault, but they look brand new on the outside, and the wire looks pristine. Battery was dead and the car sat for awhile, so it needs some miles put back on it.

Thank you for the information regarding your cams and the tandem pump.

Very Respectfully,
Kent

 

[CantWrite]

Per the PDF in the B5 section about replacing the CTS, the tandem pump does not need to come off, but I will likely be removing quite a bit of that stuff to inspect, become familiar with my new to me wagon, and make decisions from there.

 

[Windex]

You mention above that the Tandem pump gasket has been seeping/leaking . just order a TP or gasket, and the Coolant manifold underneath (with CTS) and do them all at the same time.

I replaced my Tandem pump proactively at 300k km as insurance against an internal leak putting diesel into the oil

 

[zzdiesel]

2005 VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT 2.0L L4 DIESEL Turbocharged Vacuum Pump | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

For your info. Under brakes at RA. When I replaced my one it was putting diesel in the oil and was short of vacuum for the brakes.

I replaced the cam in all 3 cars. One was truly bad, the other two at about 140K still had life but showed wear and I was doing major work on them anyway. I went with the BEW kit from Cascade. There is a thought of more longevity than the BHW cam. If there was a loss of power it was not noticeable to me. 1/2 the price of thespecialty guys and if it lasts 150K the cars will be over 300000.










b

 

[CantWrite]

@Windex did you mean tandem pump AND gasket? I will order a coolant manifold. I have a tandem pump gasket on the way but can return it if you mean order both. I am very good about checking fluids at every fill up. I have always driven chevy "junk"

@zzdiesel thank you for the link.

You both are convincing me to replace the tandem pump NOW, and also the cam since I will have the valve cover off. I will look into cascade. This thing has more power than my stock jetta ALH wagon, but seems not as strong as my NB ALH with S7 and PP520 injectors tuned down cause of LUK clutch that was my limiting factor.

I do not need all out power, but here in the mountains, the passing zones can be short and some oomph really helps.

Thank you!!

 

[Mozambiquer]

That sounds great about his cams, do they come with lifters, or do you just replace the worn ones with OEM? Being in there I would be apt to replace the lifters as well. Course, I have only done cams on push-rod (OHV) engines

Yes, they come with the upgraded lifters and everything, and Frank is on here with his support.

 

[Windex]

@Windex did you mean tandem pump AND gasket? I will order a coolant manifold. I have a tandem pump gasket on the way but can return it if you mean order both. I am very good about checking fluids at every fill up. I have always driven chevy "junk"

Meant replace the TP gasket, or the Pump (plus gasket). Personally at that mileage, I would replace the pump and the gasket, plus the coolant manifold underneath

 

[CantWrite]

@Windex thanks once again, my order of parts has arrived, but my time has not. I did order a coolant manifold and waiting on that to arrive.

I have completed some small tasks: 90% detailed the car including giving the weather seals (door, hood, hatch) a drink. Tightened the cable on the driver's door as you would have to pull the handle a bunch to open it. Its great now. Replaced the Oil filter Housing Cap as the old one was cracked and leaking. Removed entire airbox and cleaned under around and in it. I need a new snow screen.

I am holding off on ordering the cam and tandem pump until I start doing the work.

Tonight is my last night shift for 7 weeks so that will allow my body to return to normal. I am headed to South Dakota in the morning to paint my dad's house and fix my sister's car. Then I will return and have 7/8 - 7/14 off to spend some time on the car. I also need to build a wood shed during that time.