Well, my sisters car is running like a top and feels like a road sofa running 80 down I-90. It took longer than expected, and so painting dad's house has been postponed. Anything that actually needs attention right now can be reached from the ground. We did stain his deck though as it was in dire need.
When I got home, the kids were sick with summer head colds, always fun, which were passed onto momma and myself. So I had a 2-day fever and was pretty useless. My 3-sided wood shed has been shelved. I did get quite a bit of work done on the Passat, as well as playing dad and husband.
I removed the all the boost hoses, tandem pump, coolant flange, ASV module, EGR tube, EGR valve.
Boost Hoses: cleaned up well, no holes worn anywhere I could find. the lower hoses all had black o-rings which were not brittle, but were flat. The uppers were green just like the ones I ordered. I cleaned everything and covered the new o-rings in 100% silicone paste.
Tandem Pump: removal went well, I followed the procedure to suck fuel out of the return line with the supply disconnected to atmosphere. I need to post photos, but it is a LUK "BMF" with the numbers "43 ae 20004 M2" on the rear with the date code showing years 06/07. I do not know how to read the dots on the date coding though. I cleaned up and reinstalled using a new gasket. I sucked fuel through it and a new fuel filter (bosch) using the mity-vac.
Coolant Flange: Again, removal and installation went well. I drained the radiator, popped the heater core hose back to expose the vent hole, took the lid off the overflow, but when I removed one of the hoses, the one to the EGR cooler, man did coolant go everywhere. Maybe it was because the wagon was parked with its rear pretty low, but I thought after reading the procedure and a couple other posts, I would get most of the coolant out, NOPE.
Findings: The EGR valve was plum full of build-up. I removed the chunks, and set it in a high-ball of full strength simple green and it looked brand new and a little scrubbing the next morning. Very little oil in the boost tubes, maybe a tablespoon worth. Broken coolant sensor wire, I assume when they pulled the engine for the 5-speed swap they failed to unplug this, I added wire, crimped, heat-shrunk, taped, loomed, and taped again. Replaced the coolant vent line (recommended from OilHammer on a thread I read) from the back of the head around to the metal coolant pipe, its routing, was completely wrong compared to when I reinstalled the new one. Before it was routed up over top of the TP, but the new one sure wanted to go around the back of it. I re-routed the various wiring harnesses to maximize clearance to all things heat related, whatever VAG uses for sheathing is straight awesome compared to the big 3 here in the US, our plastic loom disintegrates rapidly with heat/age.
I have it all back together, cycled my lift pump through measuring blocks, group 35 a few times and the car fired. no leaks found. I still have a few things to sort out.
I am pretty sure my brake booster is leaking, when I started it I could hear the hissing hear the back of the booster. When the car was apart, I hooked up my mity-vac to the vacuum line I removed from the tandem pump and it would not hold vacuum whatsoever. I already need to remove the ECU box as I fought a pack rat and he decided to eat through my wires feeding the window washer squirter. I need to fix those. and I might as well take the battery out and check all those drains in the upper cowl area. As well as my sunroof drains.
I need to look into the #2 GP issue, still need to research the best way to go about diagnosing wire vs actual GP vs something else. I noticed the wire routing and had the car stripped to easily access it, but my time is not my own now that I have a young family.
I did not remove the valve cover, to check cam and replace gasket, my main oil leak up there sure appears to be someone who is blind and has never heard of a funnel. I still need to do this, but I am going to check "Torsion Value" on VAG and just drive it.
It needs CV axles, I have 1.8T manual ones given to me buy the previous owner, I need to install those and see how they last. I am sure they are knock-offs and won't be in there long.
lastly, the radio works for around 3 seconds and then shuts off....***. Except one day it worked perfectly fine. will need to investigate that but mechanicals first.
Its been POURING rain here every afternoon and I do not have a garage......yet......but I am having a structural engineer draw up a design based on my design drawings. It will be a slow process.
I replaced GP #2, cleared the DTC, checked to make sure the GP worked before hooking the wire back up. In 250 miles I have not received a check engine light or an "Emissions Workshop" Message. (So (7) Bosch 5v steel glow plugs remaining). It looks line a "ventecomy" has been performed. Filled with fuel, and looking forward to checking MPG's.
My brake booster is definitely leaking, not a ton as I still have brakes and have been using the engine to do most my braking. @PickleRick shipped me one. I will replace it once it arrives and I have a couple days off without plans.
Regarding the stereo, I have found that if I keep it to low volume, it will continue to work, as in, 4 notches from min when playing a CD. I have a Pioneer DEH - 80PRS sitting on the shelf, so going to work through getting a plug n play wiring harness and dash kit.
Other than that, I have painted all the black plastic and tires in simple green. Gave all the rubber seals, inside and out, and good drink and rubbing with 100% silicon paste (dielectric grease). Interior detail which needed a good drink, and just driving and enjoying, man does it drive well. SO flat in the corners.
So I successfully have around 700 miles on the wagon so far. Our roads are 45 - 65 MPH and often people drive 70 on the more substantial highways. The "Silver Bullet" as my family defines it, returned 42 MPG.
I think the 6 MPG trade off from my ALH wagon was worth it, the increased size, road manners, and reduced NVH makes me really like this wagon.
This thing rolls effortlessly down the highway! The 3-4 shift drops 1000 rpm and the 4-5 shift drops 5 - 600. Often I find myself liking 4th gear to keeps the revs at or just over 2k. I am not sure of my transmissions gearing as I have no clue to its numbers, even though I have a photo. Just could not turn up anything. I do like the gear spacing better than my stock ALH.
The low beams leave much to be desired. I need to properly aim them further, even then I can tell with our dark roads and oncoming traffic, an upgrade IS needed.
What PickleRick said. Gotta have clear lenses. Buffing them out will hold for awhile, but it's not all that costly to replace the headlight assembly and start fresh.
Would also suggest reading up on Daniel Stern Lighting website. Lots of good info there on automotive lighting there, and his "Products" page (assuming he is still in e-comm business) has a great replacement H7 bulb that is extra bright. But not with a shortened bulb life like the way in which other 55w high lumen bulbs get their extra brightness (e.g., SilverStars) at the expense of reduced life. Those bulbs helped a lot...noticeable improvement.
When I first got the car, I used my 3-step process to clearing the lenses up. Using Meguir's step process, I have #1 medium cut compound, then #7 showcar glaze, and finish with #17 clear plastic cleaner. All done by hand. This has worked well for me on my ALH's. And you are right, has to be done every couple years.
My wife bought herself a 2021 4-runner for her business (tax reasons) and they light up the night nicely. I am a reverse commuter, and the oncoming headlights I deal with are substantial. Not too mention the amount of pickups (commuters/tradesmen) but there is nothing I can do about the height difference. A lot of times I just run 5-10 mph under the speed limit, or try to follow someone.
I tried sanding my NB's headlights with 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, and then spray can clear coated them. I prefer the above though.
Thanks for the Daniel Stern Lighting Website. I will absolutely check in on those H7's and get to ordering if he is still in business. Thanks!