2015 CVCA timing belt instructions?

[powerram250]

On the cam sprocket I've loosened the little torx screw with the cam lock engaged but the sprocket will not "free spin" within range of torx screw groove. Is mine just stuck or is that it?

 

[adjat84th]

You have to loosen (not remove) the sprocket bolt using a counter hold tool, then rotate pulley all the way clockwise (max out the range of the torx screw window), and as you tension the belt the pulley will get close to centering that torx screw in its window.
You then tighten the torx, then the sprocket bolt to something like 10Nm, and remove pins. Then rotate crankshaft two full turns and check your alignment pins can go back in place before you torque it all down for good.

 

[powerram250]

Okay, that's what I was thinking. Thanks so much for the help!

 

[powerram250]

Does anyone know the HPFP sprocket single bolt torq along with the single bolt for the cam sprocket. 10 NM doesn't sound like enough for the cam. This is on a CVCA engine. Thanks.

 

[powerram250]

Just found this on another site:

Tighten camshaft sprocket centre bolt [14] . Tightening torque: 100 Nm.
Hold high-pressure fuel pump sprocket. Use tool No.T10051.
Tighten high-pressure fuel pump sprocket nut [16] . Tightening torque: 95 Nm.

 

[adjat84th]

Those are correct, and it was 10Nm for both of those for the purpose of rotating engine two full turns and re-pinning the cam/hpfp (the hpfp CAN be off just a little with no issue). Once confirmed timing is good torque them all the way down.

 

[MB2VW]

Dove into my TB change today. Found this gung ho VW at Krut Gremar Garage show how it's done! This video was very helpful:

 

[adjat84th]

Draining coolant from the Charge air circuit is completely unnecessary and not doing anything to limit what comes out when you pull the water pump. Also, don't need to undo the entire engine mount like that. Bracket can fit out the bottom
Belt interval is 130k, not 120k
They didn't loosen the cam sprocket either when tensioning. When spinning the crank two turns, you should be able to re-pin the sprocket. He uses a mirror and says, "you'll never get it to fit"....dude, wth! There's a lot wrong in this video.
Get the erWin manual and follow directions.
This is CJAA, so slightly different cam sprocket but same concept.

 

[MB2VW]

Draining coolant from the Charge air circuit is completely unnecessary and not doing anything to limit what comes out when you pull the water pump. Also, don't need to undo the entire engine mount like that. Bracket can fit out the bottom
Belt interval is 130k, not 120k
They didn't loosen the cam sprocket either when tensioning. When spinning the crank two turns, you should be able to re-pin the sprocket. He uses a mirror and says, "you'll never get it to fit"....dude, wth! There's a lot wrong in this video.
Get the erWin manual and follow directions.
This is CJAA, so slightly different cam sprocket but same concept.

They did seem to be in a hurry. Gonna watch your posted video now.


Just my luck:

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[740GLE]

seems super sketchy.

Is ODIS needed for anything? or you just snagging it cause, "why not"

 

[jerryfreak]

i wish this belt was as easily inspected as my ALH

 

[oilhammer]

"Inspecting" the belt is a lot like inspecting a light bulb. Can you tell anything about its remaining service life? Nope. That is why there is an interval.

The CVCA/CRUA belts are different than the CBEA/CJAA, not drastically, but enough that different tools are required.

I'm replacing an engine on a 2015 Passat currently, because the owner tried a M&P, and now it has bent valves. And Jesus H-effing Christ this engine is, BY FAR, the most overly complicated mess of cooling hoses, tubes, pipes, and nonsense I have ever worked on... and I've done turbochargers on biturbo Audis and crazy stuff like that. The only saving grace is that the engine/transmission are fairly straightforward and easy to remove. But I've been working on this since 5am this morning AFTER it was out, just stripping the bits down to transfer over to the replacement engine. I bet there is close to 100 constant tension clamps on this engine. And the poor porter, every time he turns around, I made another coolant puddle because between the two EGR systems, the two electric water pumps, the two thermostats, the two radiators, the coolant going through the intake manifold, and all the little vent tubes and hoses, there is a LOT of hidden places for the stuff to hang out.

My next engine replacement is an ALH.... that will seem like a vacation after this mess. Sheesh....

 

[calimustang]

LOL yep I completely concur with you on this. I could NOT make head and tail on the CVCA engine with literally 100's of hoses all over. looking at my CJAA, I always work on my CJAA far more often than the CVCA. CJAA are almost as simple as the ALH's as long as the CJAA are deleted and CP3 swapped.

"Inspecting" the belt is a lot like inspecting a light bulb. Can you tell anything about its remaining service life? Nope. That is why there is an interval.

The CVCA/CRUA belts are different than the CBEA/CJAA, not drastically, but enough that different tools are required.

I'm replacing an engine on a 2015 Passat currently, because the owner tried a M&P, and now it has bent valves. And Jesus H-effing Christ this engine is, BY FAR, the most overly complicated mess of cooling hoses, tubes, pipes, and nonsense I have ever worked on... and I've done turbochargers on biturbo Audis and crazy stuff like that. The only saving grace is that the engine/transmission are fairly straightforward and easy to remove. But I've been working on this since 5am this morning AFTER it was out, just stripping the bits down to transfer over to the replacement engine. I bet there is close to 100 constant tension clamps on this engine. And the poor porter, every time he turns around, I made another coolant puddle because between the two EGR systems, the two electric water pumps, the two thermostats, the two radiators, the coolant going through the intake manifold, and all the little vent tubes and hoses, there is a LOT of hidden places for the stuff to hang out.

My next engine replacement is an ALH.... that will seem like a vacation after this mess. Sheesh....

 

[dylenconley]

i have the repair manual, give me an email and i will send it over if the size permits


Do you still have the repair manual?

 

[nedyalkov]

yes

 

[tdiDerry]

You can always go to the erWin page online and pay the $35 one day fee and download everything you want.

https://erwin.vw.com/erwin/showOrderFlatrate.do

--Unfamiliar with erWin - what exactly would I need to download that would cover the Timing Belt replacement?
Thanks, Derry

 

[Lightflyer1]

Posts here about what to do when there. Basically you can pay for a 24 hour license and download everything you want or can. TB should be in there as well as everything else if you get it all downloaded.

 

[PLC Geek]

This ^^^^^

I spent a couple of hours downloading everything they had for my car. It's the complete troubleshooting and service manual. Mechanical and electrical, including schematics.

 

[tdiDerry]

This ^^^^^

I spent a couple of hours downloading everything they had for my car. It's the complete troubleshooting and service manual. Mechanical and electrical, including schematics.

Thanks PLC.

 

[tdiDerry]

Does anyone know if you have to replace the Coolant pump with the variable pump?

What happen if you use the non-variable?

Thanks, Derry

 

[oilhammer]

What happen if you use the non-variable?

You take away a point of potential failure. I've never put a single replacement variable pump back on any of the ones I've done.

 

[Mrrogers1]

Does anyone know if you have to replace the Coolant pump with the variable pump?

What happen if you use the non-variable?

Thanks, Derry

Most go with the non-variable cause cheaper and advantage OilHammer mentioned above.

 

[knutlovhoiden]

I just did the TB on my girlfriend's 2015 SE CVCA. ~10hrs from start to finish. Getting the belt on was a breeze compared to my 2000 Jetta 2.0. Everything else was fairly straight forward.
Unclamped and pulled off all required hoses. No need to relieve any fuel pressure (only lost a small amount pulling hoses, no spraying). The coolant hoses were the biggest mess. Didn't have to unbolt the EGR/exhaust pipe (didn't see it?). Old belt looked ridiculously good for 177k. Replaced serp tensioner and belt because I was there. Coolant took awhile to burp, but after a couple 20min drives wasn't dropping anymore and the return was flowing.
Purchased the ID parts kit w/ rollers and hardware. Chose the non-variable water pump. Also got everything from ERwin, but didn't use it. There's a gremcogarage video on YouTube for a 2015 Golf that I used to get most of the way through.
Spent way too much time fiddling with hose clamps because I have garbage pliers. The engine mount bracket + the upper two fasteners on the lower timing cover were a pain to get to.
Overall good experience.

I was on cruise control and didn't take any pics. Now time to chase why my nox sensor fuse keeps blowing & eventually on to an EGR+DPF delete.