01M Transmission shifting hard from 2nd to 3rd after full throttle on highway.

2002_auto_tdi

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I was doing a highway cleanup on the car since it is driven mostly in town. All I did was drive it about 80 for a few miles and floored it a few times. I got off the highway and it is now shifting hard on the 2nd to 3rd gear shift. I did a fluid drain and fill a few months ago and it was driving perfect. I also swapped out the trans filter. The fluid that came out of it was very clear as well. I just pulled the plug to do a drain and fill again and no metal or anything came out. Fluid looked great.

Any ideas what this could be?

Thanks.
 

Nero Morg

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It's common for the valve bodies on the transmission to wear out, then have weird shifting issues. There's a good chance you could replace the valve body and it'd be just fine after. Worth a shot.
 

2002_auto_tdi

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Interesting. Are the valve bodies and solenoids one of the same? That search showed issues with solenoids too.
 

Nero Morg

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Usually the solenoids come on a valve body when you replace them, at least every valve body I've ever done has been a $200 ebay special and came with the solenoids. Sure, it's not a super longevity way of fixing it like CoolAirVW's way, but if it gets another 80-100k miles, so far the people with the auto trans cars have been happy.
 

2002_auto_tdi

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Usually the solenoids come on a valve body when you replace them, at least every valve body I've ever done has been a $200 ebay special and came with the solenoids. Sure, it's not a super longevity way of fixing it like CoolAirVW's way, but if it gets another 80-100k miles, so far the people with the auto trans cars have been happy.
Thanks for this. Do you have a favorite writeup or youtube on doing the job? Can I drive the car the way it is until the parts come? Also, do I have to have VCDS handy? I saw an overwhelming amount of valve body setups on ebay. Any that you have had luck with or prefer to shy away from?

Finally, can a valve body unstick itself with time after a fluid change or a certain driving style?



Thanks!!
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
I have a good working 01M from an ALH sitting in the bed of my truck right now. You can have it for $100 if you can come get it.
 

Nero Morg

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Thanks for this. Do you have a favorite writeup or youtube on doing the job? Can I drive the car the way it is until the parts come? Also, do I have to have VCDS handy? I saw an overwhelming amount of valve body setups on ebay. Any that you have had luck with or prefer to shy away from?

Finally, can a valve body unstick itself with time after a fluid change or a certain driving style?



Thanks!!
I've always just used Kansascitytdi.com writeup on how to service it, he's member CoolAirVW here. http://kansascitytdi.com/01m-valve-body-removal-and-reinstalation/

Yes, you could keep driving it like that for a short period, just take it easy on it.

Secondly, no the valves don't stick, what happens is the bores oval out as they get older, then the spools don't fully move under fluid pressure, as the fluid is bypassing the spools. That's ey you'll either get soft/no engagement, or a sudden hard bang because it finally shifted. CoolAirVW's fix is to drill the valve body and put steel inserts in so they never wear out again, but if you only want it to last as a budget vehicle, a cheapo valve body is usually the go to.

You don't have to have VCDS, but it helps because you're supposed to get the trans to a certain temperature to fill it correctly, but if you just warm it up for 15-20 mins, I've found that's about as long as it takes to get to the specified temperature.

Or you could buy Oilhammers trans. I'm always a supporter of buying/selling on the forums ;)
 

2002_auto_tdi

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Thanks for the help Nero Morg. I use an infrared thermo to do the fills. The thing that worries me is that there are no codes with a standard code reader. Would VCDS spit out codes if there are no codes seen? Could this be a bad torque converter? It is also banging the gears when downshifting too coming to a stoplight.

The binary nature of this is a bit suspicious. Not a hint of any issues until I got on it hard on the highway and then it acts up. Strange that it can bang during any shift. **EDIT...notice that it can bang in any gear and failed to mention that previously.**

This car is a beater.....scared to throw money into Valve bodies or purchase VCDS without knowing a bit more. It's a shame that you are the only one posting ongoing ideas. To me that usually means that a platform is at it's end and it's time to move on.

Oilhammer, thanks but too far and not enough time to get it or install it.
 
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Nero Morg

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If a code is logged in the ECM, all it says is there's codes in the TCM, there you'll see mechanical lockup faults, gear ratios implausible, ect. Normal scan tool won't show TCM faults, but might show the fault to check the trans in the ECM.
 

2002_auto_tdi

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Just so I am tracking.....it is possible to have TCM codes and not see any of them during my use of a normal scan tool?

Thanks.
 

Rob Mayercik

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Yes. A "normal" scan tool can only talk to the ECU, and only speaks "OBD2". VCDS's first language is VW/Audi, and will be able to interact with every computer in the car.
 

Nero Morg

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Unless you come across someone that has VCDS or one of those expensive snap on scanners that let's you select what module to connect to, otherwise all generic scanners typically only scan the engine.
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
Often times the generics will just show something like a P0700 in the engine, which is the "check the transmission controller for faults" code, essentially. Generic scan tools really are hit and miss, on all kinds of cars, and just generally suck because you never really know if you are getting the whole story. I just fixed a 2003 AWM (1.8t) Passat today that had a blown suction pump (gizmo for the breather system that works with turbocharged gas engines). It came in late last night after I left, and they quick scanned it for the lady with our hand held we keep in the drive through lane (usually just for checking readiness), and it gave misfire DTCs for all 4 cyl, as well as a P0300 random misfire. That's it. But VCDS gave me the P0171 system lean, P0111 oxygen regulation too lean, and a couple other air fuel ratio and idle speed related DTCs.... all of which pointed to the REAL problem of the massive intake leak. The misfires were just secondary, as they were caused by running with too much air (lean misfires). Had I just had the generic, I'd have been in the dark as to the real problem, since the suction pump blows apart internally, so the intake leak is actually due to too much air being drawn in through the crankcase ventilation system.
 

2002_auto_tdi

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Thanks for the great responses. Maybe I should change the valve body after all to see what happens before junking it. :oops:
 

Rob Mayercik

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Seems like in your case it's worth a shot. Since the problem just appeared, it's probably early enough that it's not "overstressed" anything else in the trans yet, but I'd suggest driving it a little easier until you can get the valve body swapped out if you do go that route, so as to not aggravate the issue and potentially cause other problems.
 

2002_auto_tdi

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Yeah, thanks for the encouragement. I am a bit scared of doing the job but hopefully things work out!
 

Nero Morg

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Well as long as you don't work hungry, mechanical linkage is set right, and you torque the valve body correctly, it'll most likely work no problem. The one I did have some shift flaring from 2-3, but after going around the block a few times it started to smooth out. Probably a burr in the bore or something.
 

flee

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2002_auto_tdi, read up on the procedure at kansascitytdi.com.
The electrical connections are fragile and easily damaged during disconnection.
KCtdi even has a special tool to keep from breaking them. Good luck!
 

2002_auto_tdi

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Thanks everyone. I just want to say that I checked for trans codes using a cheap VAG401 and there were none. I can't get my head around the fact that it was working so smoothly and just one trip down the highway it bangs in every gear. I'd think that it would be a gradual change. No this is like night and day.

How do I know that this isn't a bad torque converter?

Yep, read through the procedure, thank you. Dreading this job....I really am. Old worn out body and hate working on cars....burnt out with it.

Nero Morg, what did you use to torque the bolts? Was reading that you have to get it just right and that my click type and bar type torque wrenches are insufficient. I have an inch/lbs torque wrench but it is a bar type. Scary!

Also, which valve body did you purchase? I think you mentioned Amazon most recently? Mind posting a link?

Thanks.
 

Nero Morg

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This is the one I purchased. It's been in the car since Saturday, and the lady who owns it says she's had zero issues. Amazon link.

To torque it, I used this inch pound torque wrench from O'Reillys. Link.
I had also purchased the service kit for fluid/filter from IDparts.
 

flee

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I don't see how a bad TC would give you hard shifts. That sounds more like the VB or something internal in the trans.
 

Nero Morg

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From what I've gathered over the years, the torque converter almost never goes out. It's the valve body that doesn't work properly causes the torque converter to chatter. Along with hard shifts, missed shifts, shifting flares, ect.
 

2002_auto_tdi

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Thanks, sorry to be slow. I purchased a similar one on Amazon. So I reset as much as I could with the VAG401. Within about 10 miles or so, the shifts in the lower gear drastically improved. All are so smooth now except 3rd to 4th. Going from 3rd to 4th is not horrible but not as smooth as the other gears. If the transmission is forced to downgear and then go back into 4th then there is a bang. I guess the TCU is adapting. Should I give it more time or change the valve body. I am inclined to give it more time but not sure if that is the right path. What do you say?

Thanks.
 

Nero Morg

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I still think valve body. The only reason it'll bang gears is if the spool or solenoid is sticking, or the clutch pack is delaying engagement. Hard to tell.
 

2002_auto_tdi

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I have been reading up on the KCtdi FAQ's and watching his videos. I am concerned enough about this job that I made sure all of my other cars are up to snuff before attempting it.

I purchased his tool to avoid breaking the connectors.

Seems to me that even with the tool, it is relatively easy to break a connector. If I break even one connector is it an accurate statement to say that the job goes pear shaped really fast?

Am I supposed to be replacing the old harness? If so, isn't that pretty hard to do due to starter and oil cooler etc? The remanned valve body comes with a harness.

Will I be removing the harness from the solenoid upside down in poor lighting with fluid dripping everywhere or is it possible to do so on a bench?

His guide while is exceptionally valuable doesn't seem to focus on a step by step tutorial of doing things only not breaking the connectors. I am at the point where I have dropped the pan and the filter and I am looking at the valve body. Do I remove the bolts before I remove the harness?

Thanks
 
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