Lets talk impact guns

[Genesis]

I have a Ryobi battery 1/2" -- the HP one. They make two; the lesser one sucks. THAT ONE does not suck and successfully and immediately breaks things free like a pinion nut on a differential -- or lugs on a truck, or a nice big fat axle nut.

They claim "1,100 ft/lbs" which is BS, but 600-700 is not BS. Its the real deal and I like it a lot.

I bought the Ryobi because I have other Ryobi stuff including a "blue" sazall that is 20 years old and refuses to die, despite cutting all manner of things including debris after hurricanes when I lived in FL. My experience with the batteries is quite good in the lithium series -- the NiCDs are all long gone, but of the lithiums only one has failed, and it was one of the little 2AH ones. All the rest just keep working and some are close to 10 years old now, which is more of a testament to their charger not cooking them than anything else.

Are air-powered ones better? Sure, like the old IR 1/2" and especially 3/4" drive units, but you need a nice beefy compressor to drive them. But I can grab the Ryobi and get off whatever I need off before the compressor can charge, so there you go.

 

[shoebear]

I cannot imagine having access to shop air and still using cordless electric for anything beyond a 3/8" drive.

If I had a shop with a lift, plus shop air dangling from overhead every 6 feet, I would agree 100%. However, most of us don't have that, and using an air tool under a car on jack stands has a couple of problems:

• The hose is always in the way, and the swivel joints don't work well without gravity pulling the hose down.
• The exhaust air hits the ground and blows dust up into your work.

Also, I do 95% of my work outside, so to use air, I need to drag my compressor outside, run an extension cord, etc. Then at the end of the job, put it all away again. Not the end of the world, but a task I'd rather skip if possible. Maybe I'll have a proper shop in heaven, but not anytime soon in this world.

To answer the original question:

• I use an old Craftsman C3 1/2" impact gun. Since it's obsolete, I get knock-off batteries online to keep it going. I wish it were more powerful, but it does the job 98% of the time, and I have a long breaker bar for the remaining 2%.
• I also have a DeWalt cordless ratchet with interchangeable 1/4 & 3/8" anvils. I like it OK, but it will not work in cold temperatures. I had to change my clutch (working outside) over Christmas, and a couple of days the temps were between 5 and 20*F, and the DeWalt just grunted when I tried to use it. I will probably like it better as outside temps come up.

 

[KrashDH]

If I had a shop with a lift, plus shop air dangling from overhead every 6 feet, I would agree 100%. However, most of us don't have that, and using an air tool under a car on jack stands has a couple of problems:

• The hose is always in the way, and the swivel joints don't work well without gravity pulling the hose down.
• The exhaust air hits the ground and blows dust up into your work.

Also, I do 95% of my work outside, so to use air, I need to drag my compressor outside, run an extension cord, etc. Then at the end of the job, put it all away again. Not the end of the world, but a task I'd rather skip if possible. Maybe I'll have a proper shop in heaven, but not anytime soon in this world.

To answer the original question:

• I use an old Craftsman C3 1/2" impact gun. Since it's obsolete, I get knock-off batteries online to keep it going. I wish it were more powerful, but it does the job 98% of the time, and I have a long breaker bar for the remaining 2%.
• I also have a DeWalt cordless ratchet with interchangeable 1/4 & 3/8" anvils. I like it OK, but it will not work in cold temperatures. I had to change my clutch (working outside) over Christmas, and a couple of days the temps were between 5 and 20*F, and the DeWalt just grunted when I tried to use it. I will probably like it better as outside temps come up.

Yup, with today's battery tech, air is really unnecessary 90% of the time, and is much less convenient.

My Milwaukee stuff will actually run circles around my pneumatics, but I only have a 30 gal compressor

 

[jimmyfine]

This kit here, this impact will do everything besides the high torque axle bolts on my 2010 JSW or 2001 jetta, and the size is outstanding, I can get to most fasteners with little fiddling.

RIDGID 18V SubCompact Brushless Cordless 1/2 in. Impact Wrench with (2) 4.0 Ah Batteries, Charger, and Bag R872081B-AC93044SBN - The Home Depot

RIDGID introduces the 18V SubCompact Brushless 4-Mode 1/2 in. Impact Wrench. The RIDGID SubCompact Brushless lineup pairs powerful brushless motor technology in a compact tool design. This 1/2 in. Impact

www.homedepot.com

 

[Pedalsteel]

That's a pretty good deal... today I bought an air compressor so I think for the 1/2 I'm going pneumatic... right now my mind is thinking stubby 3/8 or air ratchet for basic stuff and I'm thinking long term as the air tools usually last forever... having that 1l/2 for the car might be a good idea though I've got enough extras that I can put together separate tool kits for the different cars... my 240d trunk looks like a mobile mechanic uses it lol... I will be looking for a budget spray setup if anyone here has one they want to part with... oddly enough my mom before she passed told me she bought my dad a devilbiss sprayer back in the day...

 

[KrashDH]

That's a pretty good deal... today I bought an air compressor so I think for the 1/2 I'm going pneumatic... right now my mind is thinking stubby 3/8 or air ratchet for basic stuff and I'm thinking long term as the air tools usually last forever... having that 1l/2 for the car might be a good idea though I've got enough extras that I can put together separate tool kits for the different cars... my 240d trunk looks like a mobile mechanic uses it lol... I will be looking for a budget spray setup if anyone here has one they want to part with... oddly enough my mom before she passed told me she bought my dad a devilbiss sprayer back in the day...

Nothing on the car really needs 1/2 except for maybe the axle nuts. 3/8 will be more compact and get you into more places.

I find i use my 3/8 Milwaukee ratchet more than anything. Break screws free by hand with it, then activate and spin em off. There's really only a few bolts that would be worthy of a 3/8 impact even.

My 1/2“ really only comes out for the Cummins, and I'm talking about things with years of potential rust and 300+ ft-lb of FSM required tightening torque ( of course for something like that installed dry and exposed to a high moisture environment would take much more than the install torque to break free)

 

[ghohouston]

I've been pretty impressed with the Milwaukee electric impacts when I've used my co workers, but the electrics kill my joints. However, I'm still partial to my pneumatic stuff. Going on 10 years beating the hell out of an Ingersoll titanium 1/2" gun. And I do mean beating (heavy equipment mechanic). Not a single issue out of it, not even been rebuilt yet. I also have an old I.R. 261 3/4" drive pneumatic, and a 1" I.R. 2940B2 I bought used. They kick ass. Just have to have proper pressure and proper sized supply lines.

 

[jimbote]

If I had a shop with a lift, plus shop air dangling from overhead every 6 feet, I would agree 100%. However, most of us don't have that, and using an air tool under a car on jack stands has a couple of problems:

• The hose is always in the way, and the swivel joints don't work well without gravity pulling the hose down.
• The exhaust air hits the ground and blows dust up into your work.

Also, I do 95% of my work outside, so to use air, I need to drag my compressor outside, run an extension cord, etc. Then at the end of the job, put it all away again. Not the end of the world, but a task I'd rather skip if possible. Maybe I'll have a proper shop in heaven, but not anytime soon in this world.

To answer the original question:

• I use an old Craftsman C3 1/2" impact gun. Since it's obsolete, I get knock-off batteries online to keep it going. I wish it were more powerful, but it does the job 98% of the time, and I have a long breaker bar for the remaining 2%.
• I also have a DeWalt cordless ratchet with interchangeable 1/4 & 3/8" anvils. I like it OK, but it will not work in cold temperatures. I had to change my clutch (working outside) over Christmas, and a couple of days the temps were between 5 and 20*F, and the DeWalt just grunted when I tried to use it. I will probably like it better as outside temps come up.

Exactly. As soon as i started using electric i never looked back for all those reasons listed. They're also waaay more efficient than a compressor based tool.

 

[Zak99b5]

This thread made me pull the trigger on a compact 3/8" drive impact, to sit bewteen the 1/2" and harbor freight electric ratchet.

Went with another Ryobi, for battery/charger compatibility. It's a brushless 3/8 rated at 160 ft lbs. And the head (?) is only like 5.4" long from rear to tip of the drive.

I'll get to test it out this saturday when my son & I replace the control arms & ball joints on our neighbor's Sienna minivan--need to lift the motor/tranny and remove the mounts to access bolts for the LCAs. Manual says to remove engine/tranny, and I think the estimate from the dealer gave him heart palpitations.

 

[oilhammer]

Yeah, you never need to do that... I just lift/suspend the eng/trans from above, lower the subframe from below, and you can get them out.

 

[jimmyfine]

Nothing on the car really needs 1/2 except for maybe the axle nuts. 3/8 will be more compact and get you into more places.

I find i use my 3/8 Milwaukee ratchet more than anything. Break screws free by hand with it, then activate and spin em off. There's really only a few bolts that would be worthy of a 3/8 impact even.

My 1/2“ really only comes out for the Cummins, and I'm talking about things with years of potential rust and 300+ ft-lb of FSM required tightening torque ( of course for something like that installed dry and exposed to a high moisture environment would take much more than the install torque to break free)

The new rigid 1/2 is actually the same size as the 3/8, is only around 5" long without a socket, and can do a little over 300 ft-lbs loosening. I use it to remove anything I can nowadays cause I got tired of doing it all by hand, installing I dont really use it except to run the bolt/nut most of the way on, the thing has a very nice trigger too, I can make it do only 1 impact when installing just by finger control very easily.

 

[Zak99b5]

Yeah, you never need to do that... I just lift/suspend the eng/trans from above, lower the subframe from below, and you can get them out.

Plan is to unbolt all mounts and alternately raise engine/tranny enough to remove the mount and r&r the LCAs one side at a time. Car is pretty rusty underneath, so I'd rather not get into the subframe bolts.

 

[Fahrvegnugen]

In garage IR airgun and little makita compressor. It is so useful to blow out mice nests and dirt, break loose any bolt, etc. If I went all in on battery equipment it would be whatever store I preferred going to, since you'd be locked into a brand. I have a light 50 ft air hose that I unravel as I need it. It leaks air at the fitting no matter what I do, but isn't a problem like having a battery that needs replacement. I tried that game with old makita drill and ended up with a CRAP replacement batteries and was disappointed enough, decided to throw it out with the money. The batteries feel like a car payment.

 

[Pedalsteel]

Yeah for like $245 I will have an older craftsman 30 gallon 5.5 horse that allows me to do a bunch of things with one power source, an IR 1/2" impact and IR air ratchet and they will last hopefully for a long time...I guess everything has its drawbacks and sacrifices but I'm used to air also... eventually I will probably have both battery and air but this seems like the thing to do right now...

 

[Pedalsteel]

Been thinking of building some kind of housing that still allows heat dissipation but makes it less noisy

 

[J_dude]

Been thinking of building some kind of housing that still allows heat dissipation but makes it less noisy

For the compressor? You need to get a real one with a proper crankcase, those oil-less things are so annoying.

 

[oilhammer]

We have twin 80 gal two-stage monsters here. It's nice. But we also have a bunch of guys and tire machines and air powered rack locks and such. Waste oil furnace also uses compressed air. My single 60 gal unit at home can keep up with most things but my DA sander will tax it after only a few minutes. Those things need a LOT of air.

 

[gforce1108]

My Ingersoll Rand 1/2 in Titanium Max (1350 lb ft torque) air impact wouldn't budge a Honda crank bolt. I bought a set of the heavyweight crank bolt sockets despite being very skeptical, but damn if the bolt didn't come off like buttah with the special socket.

Brett

I bought an "earthquake" 3/4" air impact for those with 1/2' hose. I've used it 3 times in the last 10 years. 3 different Honda Ridgelines.... I did recently buy a high mass socket and can use the Milwaukee 1/2" impact if needed.

 

[oilhammer]

I've got the counterhold tool for those Honda crankshafts, too. But I think I used it once. Those suckers are certainly tight. The Toyota 1JZ has a pretty tight one, too. And there's usually not enough clearance for an impact so you end up having to use the counterhold tool.

 

[gforce1108]

I've got the counterhold tool for those Honda crankshafts, too. But I think I used it once. Those suckers are certainly tight. The Toyota 1JZ has a pretty tight one, too. And there's usually not enough clearance for an impact so you end up having to use the counterhold tool.

I bought that counterhold as well - maybe it'll work with 2 people (I didn't have a lift back then either for better access)! I saw in the forums that people put a breaker on the crank bolt and crank the engine with the starter and that'll break the bolt loose. Not my cars and an excuse to buy more tools! I honestly don't use air (80 gallon IR compressor) very much anymore now that I have a full spread of Milwaukee Fuel tools. Only for my small cutoff wheel, tires and tire machine. Everything else is Fuel powered. 1/4" driver, 1/2" drill, 3/8 ratchet, 3/8 impact, light duty 1/2" impact, heavy 1/2" impact, 7.25" circular saw, saws-all, pipe cutter, 5" cutoff, metal cutting circular saw and flashlight. The 1100ft-lb rated (for what that's worth) impact is my favorite and what started it all.

 

[Zak99b5]

Tried out the new bitty 3/8 drive impact. Very compact and light. Found that on setting 2, it will tighten lug bolts perfectly, where you need about 1/8 to 1/4 additional turn with the torque wrench to hit 100 ft lbs. I know the spec is 90, but I go to 100.

 

[Pedalsteel]

What brand?

 

[Zak99b5]

Ryobi. Only went with that since my high torque impact is also Ryobi, so they use the same battery and charger.

 

[Genesis]

The "beastly" one I have is this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-O...ue-Impact-Wrench-Tool-Only-PBLIW01B/317438520

I like it plenty, and might buy its little brother if I can find it at a nice price since I already own batteries for my other stuff.

 

[jayb79]

Great deal on the Ryobi mid torque here:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08WJYHN36/?coliid=I1M0PD8DSN0A1V&colid=Q7KUDT1MSN4P&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

[Zak99b5]

The "beastly" one I have is this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-O...ue-Impact-Wrench-Tool-Only-PBLIW01B/317438520

I like it plenty, and might buy its little brother if I can find it at a nice price since I already own batteries for my other stuff.

That’s the same one I have. Found the 3/8 drive for $80 on the jungle site. A second 4 aH battery was $50.

 

[Zak99b5]

oops wrong pic. Deleted.

 

[Zak99b5]

IMG_1078.jpeg

• Zak99b5
• Mar 12, 2024

Ryobi impacts

 

[Vince Waldon]

The 4 actual Houses at Hogwarts:

 

[Rrusse11]

I went with the Baueer for battery compatability, just picked up a spare charger on Ebay for $20.
I do have a battery that needs a rebuild, but I'm close enough to Red Lion, PA to drop in to these people:

Professional Battery Assembly, Rebuilding, and Repair - MTO Battery

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www.mtobattery.com

Used them before on my old Porter Cable drill, first battery drill I ever bought. Still runs.