eugene89us
Veteran Member
Good morning, everyone,
Finally tackled the valve cover job on 2014 Passat TDI with CKRA engine - one of two (second will be timing belt and cam seal). Car is at 117,000 miles as of yesterday. Valve cover gasket was leaking, so I decided to replace the entire cover. I followed ErWIN manual fairly religiously, including recommendation to keep the area clean. I used Saran Wrap to close off any openings for fuel rail, HPFP, and individual injectors. For this project, I purchased the valve cover itself (which comes with a gasket), 4 copper washers for injector sealing, 4 rubber o-rings for injector body, and 4 tiny rubber o-rings for the return lines. And 2 bolts for the fuel injectors. Will be happy to provide part numbers if needed. Here are the tools I used:
Before starting to disassemble, clean the area so that contamination will be less likely. I wiped everywhere I could reach and used my air compressor to blow off anything else before disassembly started. Even then, I did not reach all contamination. I numbered EVERYTHING! Literally! I numbered lines (1-4 for injectors and A-D for fuel line), I marked the injector brackets (1-4) to denote location as to match everything back (ErWin recommends putting brackets back on same injectors), I even marked the position of injector in relation to bracket, so I can cross compare to when everything is reconnected so that I kept everything to factory. Also mark the injectors, since you have to place them back into original spots.
The most tedious task involves disassembling everything on top: vacuum line, 4 electrical lines from the injectors, 2 connectors from the fuel rail, glow plug connectors, return fuel line from the rail, disconnect 4 plastic connectors for fuel return from injectors (be gentle, don't break them), and then proceed to unscrew high pressure lines (4 lines from rail to injectors and 1 line from HPFP to the rail). And finally loosen the 2 bolts holding the fuel rail (triple square bit). Also unscrew 2 bolts holding the coolant line, 2 bolts holding the fuel line, and bolt with plastic bracket holding the electrical wiring. You also unscrew the exhaust pressure sensor bracket. ErWIN suggests removing the exhaust pressure sensor, but all you need is remove the screw and you're able to remove the valve cover with sensor in place. You may have to choose a different order for things, depending if anything is in the way. I did not keep track what was unscrewed first. Your goal is to be able to move all the electrical and plumbing lines out of the way. Once all is unscrewed, you can easily move all these things out of the way. I think the fuel rail was removed last before I proceeded to work on injector bracket:
Take your time disconnecting everything. I disconnected the electrical and return fuel lines first, and removed everything out of the way before working on high pressure lines:
Don't you dare laugh at my Saran Wrap, I took all the needed precautions. LOL. And here is fuel rail removed:
And another one up close:
Now, as I started to remove the injectors, I unscrewed the 2 bolts holding the injector bracket (different size triple square from the fuel rail - you have to have a set to work on German cars, same as you have to have a torx set too). I replaced these 2 bolts, as they are tightened to stretch: 8 Nm plus 180 degrees (half turn). I may have been able to get away without using injector puller, but that made the job super easy:
And once all is removed, unclip 3 clips from the timing cover, since timing belt cover goes over the valve cover and move it off slightly to the left. Unscrew 6 screws from the valve cover going from outside in, if you plan to reuse the cover. I did not, but I still followed the unscrewing sequence. The gasket was baked on, I used pliers to grasp the cover in many places and wiggle it up and down, until it loosened, in sections. Once removed, here is what I see:
Clean off the mating surfaces. Clean around the engine (especially if the cover leaked) as this is the most accessible time to do it. Then clean the bores for the injectors. I just used a lint free blue paper towel rolled. I did not use anything abrasive. Once cleaned, I sprayed a bit of brake cleaner on end of towel to get any hard oil residue from there. I decided against blowing air into holes for fear of introducing stuff into cylinders. Paper towel cleaning was pretty adequate, see for yourselves:
Take your time to clean your oily fuel injectors. Used brake cleaner to spray the and wiped then with a paper towel. Let some brake cleaner sit on the tips to clean off some of the caked on soot. Replace copper and rubber O-rings. I used vice grips to clamp on old copper ring and removed it. I used a pick set to remove the rubber o-ring. Easy.
Here is a photo with new copper washers and new OEM rubber o-rings:
Reassemble everything. The tightening sequence for the valve cover goes from inside out like this:
5 --- 2 --- 4
3 --- 1 --- 6
Tighten valve cover bolts to 8 Nm. It was so weird to keep turning and the Nm staying the same - I guess part of it was gasket compressing. Finally it reached 8 Nm, torque wrench beeped and flashed red, and you move on to the next bolt.
It goes without saying, but make sure you are not leaving any contamination on connectors before you connect them in. If you use Saran Wrap, make sure all comes off before you connect. Only finger tighten fuel rail and injector brackets and finger tighten all the high pressure lines. This is done to give slack to make sure all lines are placed without undue stress - that way the injectors can turn if needed for proper alignment and the fuel rail can move side to side a bit. Once everything is finger tight, I compared to my factory markings, and everything was perfectly lines up. I tightened the rail (22 Nm) and the fuel injector brackets (8 Nm plus 180 deg), then tightened all high pressure lines to 28 Nm. Be careful not to nick your lines with your socket, else you will have to replace the lines if you damage them. I used VCDC to activate Lift Pump for a few minutes to get the air out from the lines. However, it still took 2 tries to crank the engine. First cranking for 5 seconds did not start engine. Second cranking was immediate. ErWin recommends a 20km (12.4 mi) test drive with at least 1 full throttle. Then check all your lines to leaks. And voila! All done. Now take a long bath and enjoy knowing that you did an awesome job. Feel free to ask any questions!
Finally tackled the valve cover job on 2014 Passat TDI with CKRA engine - one of two (second will be timing belt and cam seal). Car is at 117,000 miles as of yesterday. Valve cover gasket was leaking, so I decided to replace the entire cover. I followed ErWIN manual fairly religiously, including recommendation to keep the area clean. I used Saran Wrap to close off any openings for fuel rail, HPFP, and individual injectors. For this project, I purchased the valve cover itself (which comes with a gasket), 4 copper washers for injector sealing, 4 rubber o-rings for injector body, and 4 tiny rubber o-rings for the return lines. And 2 bolts for the fuel injectors. Will be happy to provide part numbers if needed. Here are the tools I used:
Before starting to disassemble, clean the area so that contamination will be less likely. I wiped everywhere I could reach and used my air compressor to blow off anything else before disassembly started. Even then, I did not reach all contamination. I numbered EVERYTHING! Literally! I numbered lines (1-4 for injectors and A-D for fuel line), I marked the injector brackets (1-4) to denote location as to match everything back (ErWin recommends putting brackets back on same injectors), I even marked the position of injector in relation to bracket, so I can cross compare to when everything is reconnected so that I kept everything to factory. Also mark the injectors, since you have to place them back into original spots.
The most tedious task involves disassembling everything on top: vacuum line, 4 electrical lines from the injectors, 2 connectors from the fuel rail, glow plug connectors, return fuel line from the rail, disconnect 4 plastic connectors for fuel return from injectors (be gentle, don't break them), and then proceed to unscrew high pressure lines (4 lines from rail to injectors and 1 line from HPFP to the rail). And finally loosen the 2 bolts holding the fuel rail (triple square bit). Also unscrew 2 bolts holding the coolant line, 2 bolts holding the fuel line, and bolt with plastic bracket holding the electrical wiring. You also unscrew the exhaust pressure sensor bracket. ErWIN suggests removing the exhaust pressure sensor, but all you need is remove the screw and you're able to remove the valve cover with sensor in place. You may have to choose a different order for things, depending if anything is in the way. I did not keep track what was unscrewed first. Your goal is to be able to move all the electrical and plumbing lines out of the way. Once all is unscrewed, you can easily move all these things out of the way. I think the fuel rail was removed last before I proceeded to work on injector bracket:
Take your time disconnecting everything. I disconnected the electrical and return fuel lines first, and removed everything out of the way before working on high pressure lines:
Don't you dare laugh at my Saran Wrap, I took all the needed precautions. LOL. And here is fuel rail removed:
And another one up close:
Now, as I started to remove the injectors, I unscrewed the 2 bolts holding the injector bracket (different size triple square from the fuel rail - you have to have a set to work on German cars, same as you have to have a torx set too). I replaced these 2 bolts, as they are tightened to stretch: 8 Nm plus 180 degrees (half turn). I may have been able to get away without using injector puller, but that made the job super easy:
And once all is removed, unclip 3 clips from the timing cover, since timing belt cover goes over the valve cover and move it off slightly to the left. Unscrew 6 screws from the valve cover going from outside in, if you plan to reuse the cover. I did not, but I still followed the unscrewing sequence. The gasket was baked on, I used pliers to grasp the cover in many places and wiggle it up and down, until it loosened, in sections. Once removed, here is what I see:
Clean off the mating surfaces. Clean around the engine (especially if the cover leaked) as this is the most accessible time to do it. Then clean the bores for the injectors. I just used a lint free blue paper towel rolled. I did not use anything abrasive. Once cleaned, I sprayed a bit of brake cleaner on end of towel to get any hard oil residue from there. I decided against blowing air into holes for fear of introducing stuff into cylinders. Paper towel cleaning was pretty adequate, see for yourselves:
Take your time to clean your oily fuel injectors. Used brake cleaner to spray the and wiped then with a paper towel. Let some brake cleaner sit on the tips to clean off some of the caked on soot. Replace copper and rubber O-rings. I used vice grips to clamp on old copper ring and removed it. I used a pick set to remove the rubber o-ring. Easy.
Here is a photo with new copper washers and new OEM rubber o-rings:
Reassemble everything. The tightening sequence for the valve cover goes from inside out like this:
5 --- 2 --- 4
3 --- 1 --- 6
Tighten valve cover bolts to 8 Nm. It was so weird to keep turning and the Nm staying the same - I guess part of it was gasket compressing. Finally it reached 8 Nm, torque wrench beeped and flashed red, and you move on to the next bolt.
It goes without saying, but make sure you are not leaving any contamination on connectors before you connect them in. If you use Saran Wrap, make sure all comes off before you connect. Only finger tighten fuel rail and injector brackets and finger tighten all the high pressure lines. This is done to give slack to make sure all lines are placed without undue stress - that way the injectors can turn if needed for proper alignment and the fuel rail can move side to side a bit. Once everything is finger tight, I compared to my factory markings, and everything was perfectly lines up. I tightened the rail (22 Nm) and the fuel injector brackets (8 Nm plus 180 deg), then tightened all high pressure lines to 28 Nm. Be careful not to nick your lines with your socket, else you will have to replace the lines if you damage them. I used VCDC to activate Lift Pump for a few minutes to get the air out from the lines. However, it still took 2 tries to crank the engine. First cranking for 5 seconds did not start engine. Second cranking was immediate. ErWin recommends a 20km (12.4 mi) test drive with at least 1 full throttle. Then check all your lines to leaks. And voila! All done. Now take a long bath and enjoy knowing that you did an awesome job. Feel free to ask any questions!
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