Vlad123
Member
So I need separate USB for each engine type? Or does it work on all cars between certain years?With VCDS for the old ALH, I didn't have to buy the software.
Just bought a KEY-USB or KII-USB.
So I need separate USB for each engine type? Or does it work on all cars between certain years?With VCDS for the old ALH, I didn't have to buy the software.
Just bought a KEY-USB or KII-USB.
Wow thx.Fuel makes boost. If your fuel flow is restricted you can get an underboost code.
The fuel hose is 3mm ID. We (IDParts) have it but you can probably find it locally.
Use Diesel Purge to clean the pump and injectors. You should run the car on it directly for best results. Search here for instructions.
Also was looking at fuel pump part prices... more or less $200. Injector pump is like $1600. Is there anything to keep the injector pump lasting longer? That repair would be a biggie. Fuel filter change regularly? Will Diesel Purge keep it from having problems? Anything else?Fuel makes boost. If your fuel flow is restricted you can get an underboost code.
The fuel hose is 3mm ID. We (IDParts) have it but you can probably find it locally.
Use Diesel Purge to clean the pump and injectors. You should run the car on it directly for best results. Search here for instructions.
Fuel makes boost. If your fuel flow is restricted you can get an underboost code.
The fuel hose is 3mm ID. We (IDParts) have it but you can probably find it locally.
Use Diesel Purge to clean the pump and injectors. You should run the car on it directly for best results. Search here for instructions.
I just changed the fuel filter and added the diesel purge directly to the filter. Took me longer to wait for the old filter to drain than it took me to change the filter itself. I think the mechanic is a little passive-aggressive angry w/ me. I dunno. He doesn't speak English and I bought my own parts. And I can't communicate with him easily. He told me to come back for the fuel filter after changing the turbo but after the third time I just did the fuel filter change myself.odd the mechanic didn't have time to do the fuel filter, only takes an easy 20 minutes for that. but your problems could be caused by all sorts of things. if you took a couple quick vcds logs the problem would likely be apparent or at least give you a better idea of what to check rather than blind guessing. symptoms you describe could easily be boost problems. was your old turbo having any problems? it could easily have been perfectly fine, despite being pretty old
I get so lost in the endless maze of this and similar forums on TDIs. The search returned 25 pages. I stop after 3 pagesTrack down the 'limp-mode' thread for its instructions on diagnosing vacuum turbo-control issues.
Douglas
Older diesels required starting ether to get going. Tractors, etc had ether canisters or ether "eggs" that were dropped in and were punctured with closing a cap. I've used propane or acetylene, and used a gasoline soaked rag over the intake on industrial and marine engines.You should NEVER use starting fluid in a diesel. That can destroy things.
Yea, that thread is a monster, need summarizing. But most of the good stuff should be near the top.I get so lost in the endless maze of this and similar forums on TDIs. The search returned 25 pages. I stop after 3 pages
As the dead ALH I just bought has a brand new Stiggan turbo -- can you expand on your warning? Is there a common failure mode on this brand? Is it going to grenade a turbine, or leak oil? And is the failure more prevalent on modded engines or on stock?Stay away from Stiggan!
Nothing like running a 1710 cummins out of fuel in a 100 tone haul truck and the on site fuel guy shows up with a case of either and the fuel truck.... the older diesels could take a lot more abuse then these newer ones, even industrial/agg no one reccomends either anymore.Older diesels required starting ether to get going. Tractors, etc had ether canisters or ether "eggs" that were dropped in and were punctured with closing a cap. I've used propane or acetylene, and used a gasoline soaked rag over the intake on industrial and marine engines.
But, right.....on modern diesels...NO ETHER
All I can say is that I had a nightmare scenario with the Stiggan turbo along with the previous owner. I usually discount "use only OEM equipment" stories in enthusiast communities as a way of helping vendors profit. Well that was not the case here. Even though I am a risk taker, I try to mitigate the risk by asking the manufacturer questions about their warranty and product. I asked Stiggan a few questions about the product country of origin and their warranty process. They were completely non responsive even after I called them and emailed them a few times. The turbo was then installed and although it built boost it smoked from the tailpipe something awful. I ended up lawyering up and getting a remanned id parts turbo. Doing the job twice was not fun but confirming the turbo was at fault even less so. No warning signs besides the plumes of smoke. No unusual amount of oil accumulated in the lower intercooler pipe either. The not knowing the root cause took even more time and energy than replacing the turbo.1
As the dead ALH I just bought has a brand new Stigan turbo -- can you expand on your warning? Is there a common failure mode on this brand? Is it going to grenade a turbine, or leak oil? And is the failure more prevalent on modded engines or on stock?
There are many good reasons to use OEM parts, but in this particular enthusiast community, I would offer that almost no one suggests to do so in order to "help vendors profit."I usually discount "use only OEM equipment" stories in enthusiast communities as a way of helping vendors profit.
Good info for the back pocket. Since the OEM turbo failed, I'll roll the dice on the Stigan. It's so new the exhaust manifold has barely rusted.All I can say is that I had a nightmare scenario with the Stiggan turbo along with the previous owner. I usually discount "use only OEM equipment" stories in enthusiast communities as a way of helping vendors profit. Well that was not the case here. Even though I am a risk taker, I try to mitigate the risk by asking the manufacturer questions about their warranty and product. I asked Stiggan a few questions about the product country of origin and their warranty process. They were completely non responsive even after I called them and emailed them a few times. The turbo was then installed and although it built boost it smoked from the tailpipe something awful. I ended up lawyering up and getting a remanned id parts turbo. Doing the job twice was not fun but confirming the turbo was at fault even less so. No warning signs besides the plumes of smoke. No unusual amount of oil accumulated in the lower intercooler pipe either. The not knowing the root cause took even more time and energy than replacing the turbo.
You can get the cartridges from a few different vendors at a reasonable cost.