Sticky vanes or sticky actuator

[lunchboxed]

I went on my car to check my actuator and noticed the arm would not move till 15 lbs vacuum and then suddenly the actuator arm would snap open and when I released the pressure the actuator arm would move back normally. Is this likely a bad actuator or sticky vanes.

I just replaced the Actuator just under 2 years ago with a Garrett from ID parts, could it have failed this quickly?

 

[hgsmith]

If its moving and holds a vacuum then the actuator is fine. Sounds like sticky vanes since it moves.

 

[lunchboxed]

I have heard actuators can stick too, definitely don't want to rip the turbo apart if I don't have to.

 

[AndyBees]

How does it drive? ..........throttle response, etc.

 

[lunchboxed]

If I floor it after I just shifted there is a serious delay in the oomph. It'll accelerate at first and then all of a sudden have a surge of power a second or 2 later. If I already have the throttle down and the rpms around 24-2500 it'll accelerate almost immediately but there is still a lag.

 

[Gothmolly]

Sticky vanes. When warm, jack up the car, creep under and remove the actuator from the rod going into the turbo. You'll need a 10mm and a set of needlenose. Watch that the snapring doesn't fly off when you do this. Wrap a wet rag on the rod going into the turbo (you will hear and feel the water boil in the rag in your hand!) and work the rod back and forth. It will likely feel like it's going to break something, then suddenly get smooth. Work back and forth until you start to burn your hand. Then crawl back under and reconnect the actuator. Repeat yearly or however often it ganks up.

 

[lunchboxed]

Will that eliminate the problem or will it be a much better to just pull the turbo and clean it out?

 

[papa_smurf49319]

My car will get a overboost code, and go in to limp mode once in awhile when accelerating up a hill, or flooring it for extended period. What i find solves this for me for a while is to spray the actuator arm at the pivot on the turbo with pblaster ever other oil change, if i do this i rarely ever if at all have any problems, now if i go 3 or 4 oil changes without doing this it will act up. I know its not the longterm fix, but it may help you from pulling that turbo for awhile.

 

[splendid]

Have you thought about trying chemical cleaning?

 

[lunchboxed]

I would love to attempt that but I have no means of getting at the bolts to remove the down pipe. That is damn near impossible to get at without a lift.

I might send a message to a couple garages that are TDI friendly near boston to get access to a lift to attempt the chemical clean.

 

[Turbospool]

I would love to attempt that but I have no means of getting at the bolts to remove the down pipe. That is damn near impossible to get at without a lift.
I might send a message to a couple garages that are TDI friendly near boston to get access to a lift to attempt the chemical clean.

Just want to encourage you to try this... did mine aprox 40 K ago and it still works like a dream. Once you get it cleaned you gotta drive it occasionally ... like I mean redline it up a steep grade in third gear every tank of fuel. No kidding.

 

[splendid]

I would love to attempt that but I have no means of getting at the bolts to remove the down pipe. That is damn near impossible to get at without a lift.

I used a set of car ramps at home and had enough access.
One of the nuts is hidden from view, so a small mirror is helpful. Also make sure to soak the nuts with a penetrating spray before hand. Other than containing the easy off it's pretty straight forward. I'm not very mechanically inclined, but had an easy time with this job.

 

[lunchboxed]

Just want to encourage you to try this... did mine aprox 40 K ago and it still works like a dream. Once you get it cleaned you gotta drive it occasionally ... like I mean redline it up a steep grade in third gear every tank of fuel. No kidding.

I only have a jack that doesn't give me enough clearance to really work under the car with any kind of headroom, just enough to do oil changes and whatnot. I'm also concerned that if I snap a bolt I'm going to be out of luck. I've got a new-england car, and if my tie rod ends (had to be cut off to be removed) are any indication, the down-pipe bolts probably won't be much better. I'd rather have someone who could fix that kind of problem on the spot be present. I've had many things go wrong unexpectedly in wrenching so I'm just trying to play it safe to not put my daily driver into a bad spot.

 

[AndyBees]

VNT 15......back in service, after on the bench cleaning

You tell me what's sticking.......Vanes or the internal mechanism that operates the vanes.

What you see in the following photos cannot be reached using the Chemical Clean. If you say yes, then, tell me how the Chemical and Crud gets out.

Note the Vanes are there in the middle (all 9 of them). The levers that move them are on the outer circumference!

Below, nice and clean

Below is the Turbo "cartridge." You are looking at the Turbine side of the Turbo. It goes inside the housing........Vanes direct exhaust gas onto the Turbine blades....angle of the Vanes determines boost! Notice the shield immediately behind the blades of the Turbine.....that shield goes into the center hole of the housing virtually sealing off the area behind it. How does the chemical get in and out?

Below, nice and clean Turbine.........tooth brush and Dawn!

Below, nice and clean Impeller (Compressor) .......tooth brush and Dawn!

Taking the RPMs up to about 3200 to 3500 gradually at first then really press down until your Boost spikes at max will exercise the Vane operating mechanism sufficient to keep it working for many miles! Do that at least two or three times per tank of fuel. 4500 RPMs is not necessary!........

My Turbo works fine and has never been taken off nor chemical cleaned, almost 309k miles on it!

Hope this is helpful to those who want to tackle Turbo removal and bench cleaning!

 

[lunchboxed]

Update on this bad boy. Took it up to Tremblay's last chance. Found a mix of problems, I fixed the sticky actuator by starting the car and working the lever hard and got the motion of the actuator back.

After that Rich adjusted the actuator to the proper length (was too long). Finally we found out the check valve got plugged not allowing for solid vacuum and found out the N75 wasn't shot, but it was leaking. So, the lag is about 75% better now because he had another check valve but not another good condition N75 on hand. We used a known working but slightly old one on hand and tried that and viola, no more lag. We put my old one back on though as I'd rather have a new one on there to eliminate the chance of it being bad.

Long story short, not enough vacuum=turbo vanes not moving properly causing them to stick. Fixed sticky vanes and corrected some vacuum issues (all lines had previously been replaced so this was not the issue). Now just need another N75 and all should be well with the car :-D.