SOS! Does anyone know what this part is called?

[AndyBees]

Yeah, sounds like you are trying to remove the two bolts/nuts on the Exhaust Port on the Exhaust Manifold for the EGR system. Yes, it can be a bugger. And, I do believe you are correct, 12 mm. Likely it is rusted down to about an 11 mm. Good to let the PB soak in overnight.

 

[Metal Man]

Valve grinding compound for helping your tool grip bolts and nuts is one of the best mechanic tips I have. Depending on where it is heat may do the job.

valve grinding compound - Google Search

 

[Tdijarhead]

A sharp rap with a hammer and a piece of steel rod. (Use the rod so you can reach it) Some heat with a propane torch, be careful after all the PB spray.

 

[Zak99b5]

PB Blaster isn't flammable. At least, not when I've torched it.

 

[jdwiley]

Had a few more questions for y'all before I continue with this process. I saw a youtube video on how to remove the injectors and it seems pretty straight forward, but didn't explain a few details that pertain to my specific issue, the video was on how to replace the injectors with new ones rather than just taking them off and re using the same ones.
1. When trying to get all the carbon out of the cylinders, should I crank the engine with the intake manifold off or on? or does it not really matter?
2. I'm assuming I'm going to have to shut the fuel pump off when doing this process so fuel doesn't squirt all over my engine, what fuse should I pull or connector do I disconnect in order to make sure fuel doesn't come out of the injector pipes?

3. Can I use the same copper crush rings when putting the injectors back on or should I buy new ones?
4. A little bit of fuel dripped out the bottom of the injector pipes where they meet the pump (only loosened the fitting just enough to pull back the pair of injector pipes enough to where they had enough clearance for the slide hammer), will this be an issue later since I might've introduced air into the pipes?
5. I've seen some differing opinions online about the answer to 4, the dude in the video I saw online left the fittings at the top loose (after re installing injectors) and cranked the engine. Fuel of course spurted out the top of each injector, then he tightened injector #1 and #4 first once he saw fuel was coming out in more of a solid stream, thus telling him that all the air has been purged out of the pipes. Then he went to #2 and #3 and did the same thing. Should I follow this same technique or just tighten them all before cranking, and let the pump purge all the air out on its own?
6. I took a few of the intake manifold bolts off yesterday (on cylinder #1 and #2) but once I got to the right side, there was something in the way of me accessing the bolts on cylinder #4, which I believe people earlier were saying was the heat shield but I could be wrong. Do I have to be worried about coolant or oil leaking when taking this part off?

p.s. this is the video I watched for the injector removal:

 

[AndyBees]

1. You can crank it with the Intake off (heck, you can start it with the Intake off)
2. Remove the single wire on top of the IP (seems it is held in place with an 8 mm nut)
3. You really need new copper crush washers ............. I suppose you can heat them with a propane torch (others may chime in here)
4. No problem with the dripping fuel. You will need to "bleed" the hard pipes anyway when all is buttoned up.
5. Procedure is fine as you saw and described .............. order of bleeding doesn't matter!
6. Yes, there is a heat shield bolted to the Exhaust Manifold (two 12 mm nuts). Yep! That was me that identified this access problem.

The two nuts holding the heat shield will be problematic. You probably should tray some penetrating chemical ............. maybe even some very hot heat would be good at getting their attention. Just make sure you do not break them. If they screw out of the head, that will be okay.

 

[jmodge]

Way to study! I hope you get it running, It will be interesting to see how far you slide down the rabbit hole.
#3 I have dressed mine with a fine file on both sides and reused them
If the nuts were tightened more than the studs you might have a tough time. FYI, threads on the injectors are the same as the wheel bolts, so you can use one as a gauge to find or make something to fit your slide hammer.

 

[jdwiley]

Update: finally managed to take the intake manifold as well as all the injectors off yesterday which I was pleased with. Then I began the flushing process recommended by AndyBees, minus the water part because I wanted a bit of clarification, so here are my questions for y'all:

1. Do I literally squirt water directly into the engine through the head ports (as shown in picture 3 below) in order to flush engine? (only asking that because it makes me nervous doing that because I'd rather not hydro-lock the engine)
2. Fuel in still coming out of the IP pipes, even though I removed the 8mm nut that holds down a wire at the top of the IP, as well as removing the connector that comes out of the bottom of the IP, both shown in the blue circles in pictures 1 & 2 below. I ended up just putting a towel under the pipes so fuel doesn't get all over the engine, but does anyone know why it's still coming out? What else should I do in order to make sure fuel doesn't come out of those pipes?
3. I ended up just spraying WD-40 into the cylinders through the injector holes in hopes that that would be enough to get all of the carbon crud out of the cylinders, but when I cranked it over a few times, nothing came out of the injector holes or GP holes. Why isn't crud being blown out of these holes?
4. @AndyBees mentioned in post #29 to clean each head port with a vacuum cleaner and scraper, then rotate the engine until the intake valves are open. My question is how do I know when exactly the intake valves are fully open?

Thanks for all the help so far, no way I'd know what to do without y'all and I'll definitely post a video of it firing up once I've finally fixed it lol

pics:

http://imgur.com/a/DkhNelO

 

[AndyBees]

My recommendation for using water was with the Intake still on.

Yes, as I previously stated, now, that you have Intake off, there is a procedure to clean the "intake ports" in the head. The Intake Valve needs to be closed while cleaning each individual Port. I scrape, vacuum ........... scrape more and vacuum more! You can use about any means necessary to clean out the crud. Numerous TDI owners have cleaned the Intake Ports. It is a challenge considering they face toward the firewall.

You have two options to determine when an Intake Valve is closed, 1. Observe while someone rotates the engine at the crankshaft with a 19mm 12 point socket and big ratchet. 2. ( See what Joklia said below) Or, you can remove the valve cover and observe the lobe pertaining to the Intake Port you plan to clean. I'd go with the second option.

The wire removed from the Solenoid on top of the IP only keeps the engine from starting. If you have pipes loosened, yes, fuel will flow out one or more of them.

At some point, before putting the Intake back on, you will need to do a compression check on each cylinder. Keep in mind, the crud that broke off and/or loosened and drained into the cylinders most likely compromised both Intake and Exhaust Valves. It is caught/trapped under the edge of the valve(s) around the lip of the valve seat(s) where they seal when closed. So, the procedure to "flush" that stuff loose and out will take more than a few squirts of WD-40 or anything else. Anyway, at this point, water is not necessary. It will not come flying out of the Injector or Glow Plug holes in big chunks ........... it would be a dirty mist!

 

[jokila]

Since he has the injectors off he could use a rod of some sort that sits on the piston and when it goes past TDC it will start to drop. Juist rewind smidge and now it's at TDC.

 

[jdwiley]

I finished up cleaning out the intake ports by vacuuming and scraping (made sure the pistons were at TDC when doing so for their respective intake port). I also sprayed WD-40 in all of the injector holes and cranked the engine over and repeated that process four or five times over, with a small white mist blowing out of each cylinder every time. Then I put the new crush rings along with the injectors back in and torqued the holders down to 20 ft-lbs each. I got the compression tester and torqued the tool down to 11 ft-lbs (not sure if that matters or not but did it anyways for consistency) in the glow plug holes. After cranking it multiple times until the needle stopped moving, my results were;
#1: 320psi, #2: 310psi, #3: 200psi, #4: 410psi
Obviously, these numbers are below spec so I'll be flushing out each cylinder tomorrow with copious amounts of WD-40, then testing the compression once again. I also noticed some air bubbles in the clear tube leading up to the IP, am I going to have to purge the IP with a vacuum once I am ready to start the engine? When I go to re-test, can I reuse the same new crush rings I just bought or do I need new ones again?
Thanks

 

[AndyBees]

I'm worried about your compression numbers. There is a good possibility that the valves made contact with their respective pistons while crud was holding them open.

The WD-40 and any other flushing liquid needs to go down the Intake Ports of the Head. If there is crud under the Exhaust Valves, hopefully, all the flushing will dissolve it.

Yeah, I'd re-use the crush washers!

 

[jdwiley]

Gentlemen, excellent news. I continued to flush the engine today and sprayed WD-40 directly through the intakes as well as the injector holes and repeated that process 3 or 4 times. I then did a compression test on each cylinder and here are my results:
#1: 510psi, #2: 500psi, #3: 440psi, #4: 470psi
Needless to say, I'm very pleased with how far those numbers have jumped since last test, especially cylinder #3 which was the one I was worried about (thought I bent the valve on that one since it was only 200psi on the first reading) . I think these pressures should be high enough to start but I'm going to err on the side of caution and flush #3 and #4 tomorrow again in hopes those numbers will get a bit closer to 500psi so it'll be more uniform pressures across. Before I try to crank it with the injectors back on, should I give it an oil change to make sure none of the WD-40 is in the cylinders? or does it not matter? Is there anything else that needs to be done/reattached before starting the engine (I have the manifold off as well as EGR vacuum lines and whatever mess I undid on the side facing the firewall)?
I've also noticed a few air bubbles in the clear tube that leads up to the IP, will I need to purge the air out with a vacuum before starting?

 

[AndyBees]

Clean the Intake Manifold.......... lots of debating on the best method.
-Burn it out
-Chemicals
-Chemicals, brushing, etc
-Boil it

I made a cover to bolt onto the EGR end. Then, lay it down so it can be filled with Awesome.......... let it soak and soak. I also put gravels inside and shook the hell out of it.........more Awesome and brushing. I'll never burn-out another one ........ too smoky and still ended up with carbon chunks I had to remove by various means.

Squirting in some "motor oil" will raise the compression numbers! Right now the cylinder walls are "washed" down with WD-40.

I believe you've dodged the bullet!

 

[jokila]

Having cleaned one intake manifold in the past using solutions and brushes, followed by high pressure water. Never again. Too messy, too time consuming.

If I had to do it again I would do the "redneck intake manifold cleaning"

 

[jmodge]

The compression numbers may possibly be skewed by fluid around the rings. Signed; Killjoy

 

[jokila]

The compression numbers may possibly be skewed by fluid around the rings. Signed; Killjoy

I don't recall how fluid would cause the numbers to be that much different. Better compression? yes. Double? no.

 

[jdwiley]

I cannot thank everyone who helped in this thread enough, especially @AndyBees Without y'all, there's no way in hell I'd be able to figure it out myself, I'm only 21 years old and most I've done mechanically speaking is an oil change. I flushed cylinder #3 and #4 again and got the pressures up to 500psi and 490psi, respectively. I re-attached the glow plugs and injectors as well as the injector pipes to the injectors and purged the air out by tightening two at a time until the squirted solid fuel out of each, then tightened other two down. I took a video of it starting for the first time after tightening everything down because I figured y'all might wanna watch it as well lol Now just to finish cleaning the EGR and intake manifold and re-attach everything, then I'll hit the highway and give it an old fashioned Italian tune up to make sure everything is cleared, and I cannot wait to floor it on the on-ramp.

http://imgur.com/a/H2vcpcj

 

[AndyBees]

That's awesome ..........

I assume the smoke blew out the Intake Ports due to the Valves not fully seating at first. Or, did you remove the Exhaust Manifold/Turbo assembly?

It doesn't do any harm to run the engine with the Intake off or the Exhaust Manifold off.

I remember 50 years ago when I was 21 .......... just like it was yesterday!

 

[AndyBees]

After watching the video over and over, I believe the smoke come out of Intake Ports #2 or #3 (or both) which likely is due to the valve(s) not seating properly as I previously stated!

The ALH engine rocks!