Should I fix my 2005 Passat Wagon with 220k miles?

[Thingsfallapart]

Hi,
I have a few issues that need to be addressed on my 2005 Passat Wagon It's well used at 220k miles. I've done the BSM delete with all recommended add-ons e.g. timing belt water pump etc., recently replaced struts, shocks and springs, recently replaced cv joints with high quality parts, new tires last year, brakes and rotors on the front and rear. It doesn't go through much oil. Seems to be a leak high in the engine. Possibly an intake flap weep hole.

I've put 10k on it this summer visiting family in Maine and Wisconsin. Averages 39ish mpg on the highway.

Only problem was a blown egr cooler. This was painful as it happened on my last trip to Wisconsin. I live in Maryland and was 8 hours away from home and 8 hours away from family. This post saved my bacon: Replacing EGR cooler for leak. I couldn't believe I fixed it with hardware parts AND the hardware store was only 3 miles away from me at the time.

This is the list of known issues:

• Replace EGR cooler - previously replaced 5 years ago. Darn cooler.
• Replace heater core - broken when trying to burp the heater.
• Replace intake flap
• Replace brake fluid reservoir - noticed corner of reservoir had crumbled while I was breaking the heater core

With my misadventures regarding the heater core and brake fluid reservoir it seems like plastic parts might be starting to fail. I'm not sure what else is about to fail. What should I check when thinking about this? The parts are not too expensive, it's the 12 hours labor to replace the heater core I'm not excited about. I'm also not excited about future repair time if it's likely to keep breaking.

I think I should:

• Check compression
• Check cam shaft

What else should I consider?
Thanks,
Rick

 

[oilhammer]

I have two 2004s, one just passed 230k miles, one is closing in on 250k miles (but the latter is not driven daily or even semi-daily). I'm not about to part ways with either one. I take good care of them, they are both in good shape. I don't think there is any other car that checks the boxes they do.

Everything you mention is not out of bounds for normal wear, although the heater cores are not all that common from my experience. But they can fail. If the end gets cracked in the cowl chamber, you can often cut it off and slide the hose further up (and make sure to use the OEM spring clamps) and it may work just fine.

 

[Thingsfallapart]

If the end gets cracked in the cowl chamber, you can often cut it off and slide the hose further up (and make sure to use the OEM spring clamps) and it may work just fine.

Thanks for that idea. I can try cutting it off. What's to lose. The boot can be pushed up a bit. Maybe enough to provide adequate pipe. Maybe I can cut the boot off?

 

[DeliveryValve]

The parts are not too expensive, it's the 12 hours labor to replace the heater core I'm not excited about. I'm also not excited about future repair time if it's likely to keep breaking.

The manual on removing the heater core is definitely labor intensive. Here is a video on how to do with significant time reduced by removing the whole dash. They also replaced the core with an all metal version.

Link to a Discussion on the procedure with some added insights.

B5.5 Passat Heater Core Replacement Made Easy Vid

www.passatworld.com

.

 

[Thingsfallapart]

Here is a video on how to do with significant time reduced by removing the whole dash. They also replaced the core with an all metal version.

Thanks for this reference! I'll have to watch this one a few times.

 

[DeliveryValve]

• Replace EGR cooler - previously replaced 5 years ago. Darn cooler.
  

Curious… what is the mileage on the cooler, how often did you change the coolant and what brand/type coolant have you been using? Just wondering what’s the cause for two failures.

 

[oilhammer]

BHW EGR coolers randomly, and suddenly, fail. They are the only Valeo "log style" TDI EGR coolers to do this, no idea why. Mine is still going fine at 230k, on a 2004. I just did a 2005s at 320k miles recently. Some have failed at 150k (10 years ago).

 

[Thingsfallapart]

I bought the car at 160k. The cooler failed 3 days later. This cooler failed after about 60K miles. As I had just changed the cooler, I assumed all the white smoke was from a blown head gasket. After reading all the posts on crazy EGR cooler failure rates and the rarity of head gasket problems I optimistically gambled on the EGR cooler. I drove 8 hours on the fix and it worked. Once at my destination, I tested the cooler by filling it with water using two clear hoses. I started the engine and massive amounts of exhaust bubbled out. 60K seems kind of light for another failure but I torqued all the fasteners correctly. I would delete the EGR system but we are serious about emission control in our house.

My first EGR cooler resulted in hydrolock. Luckily it did not damage the engine.

I use VW g12 coolant but expect to change to the new VW g13 coolant.

 

[Mozambiquer]

I'd fix it. I've got three 2005 Passats, one with 250k miles that I drive, one with 220k miles my wife drives and one with 200k miles that needs a cam and is in the list of vehicles to repair.
My first one, I got with a blown EGR cooler. Got it for cheap as the owner thought it was a blown head gasket, I thought it was also, so I was getting ready to tear it down and pulled the cooler and found it was full of coolant. I blocked it off and tested and then there was no more bubbles in the coolant. I left it plated off and it's the one with 250k miles now, it had 200k miles at that point.

 

[Thingsfallapart]

I'd fix it. I've got three 2005 Passats, one with 250k miles that I drive, one with 220k miles my wife drives and one with 200k miles that needs a cam and is in the list of vehicles to repair.

Thanks. I'm leaning that way. It has good power/efficiency, runs smoothly. Should I bother with the compression check and looking at the cam?

 

[Mozambiquer]

Thanks. I'm leaning that way. It has good power/efficiency, runs smoothly. Should I bother with the compression check and looking at the cam?

Look at the cam, for sure, and if you have a compression gauge for a diesel, go ahead, though I don't generally do that unless there's problems.

 

[oilhammer]

Viewing the cylinder balance with a scan tool is much quicker, easier, and no mess.

 

[DeliveryValve]

BHW EGR coolers randomly, and suddenly, fail. They are the only Valeo "log style" TDI EGR coolers to do this, no idea why. Mine is still going fine at 230k, on a 2004. I just did a 2005s at 320k miles recently. Some have failed at 150k (10 years ago).

Did any of the failed coolers have some sort of sign of corrosion inside?

I am on my original cooler as well. But my coolant maintenance have not been according to the prescribed intervals. So I was wondering if that has helped it’s longevity.

I had my car go with the first 40k service and the factory coolant was flushed out at the dealership and replaced with VW G12.

80K, I had a shop replace the BSM and timing related parts. The coolant was replaced with Pentosin SF (G12).

125K, Coolant reservoir failure and I flushed and refilled the coolant with Pentosin ++ (G12++)

140K, Thermostat failure, replaced the coolant again with Pentosin ++.

162K, The water pump leaked. I flushed and replaced the coolant with Pentosin E (G13)

207K, oil leak destroyed some of the hoses in the back of the engine. Replaced the rear flange. Took a peak inside the cylinder head while the flange was out and looks brand new in there. Replaced coolant with Pentosin E

I now have 240K on the car. Hopefully my EGR cooler is still in great shape not have to think about it for a long time.

 

[DeliveryValve]

..It has good power/efficiency, runs smoothly. Should I bother with the compression check and looking at the cam?

If it were me and I think it runs smooth with good power and efficiency. I wouldn't bother with it.
Only time I'd do it, is when I got an itch to do something or just plain curious.

 

[oilhammer]

It isn't the coolant's fault. It just happens. Be thankful the EGR cooler on the BHW isn't in a bad spot. Replace one on a 3.2L Transit and you'll understand.

 

[Mozambiquer]

It isn't the coolant's fault. It just happens. Be thankful the EGR cooler on the BHW isn't in a bad spot. Replace one on a 3.2L Transit and you'll understand.

Or a maxxforce 10!!! I've done a few of them, they're a pain!

 

[Thingsfallapart]

Viewing the cylinder balance with a scan tool is much quicker, easier, and no mess.

This is encouraging. Is there a process outlined somewhere? I have the Ross-Tech HEX+CAN

 

[Kravt]

Injector balance is engine measuring block 13. Take a look at the values and search the forum for details if concerned. If you’re under +-1.00 on all 4 injectors, most would consider that to be vaguely indicative of ok engine health.

 

[Thingsfallapart]

Thank for the advice. I found this article on myturbodiesel.com : How to fine tune camshaft timing (torsion value) on PD TDI engines

I feel good about the injector balance. All very close in value. Interestingly, the values changed over time getting closer to zero. I started the procedure with the engine at operating temperature. I guess I'm going to fix everything. I also replace the vacuum tubes while I'm at it.

First reading:
14:07:21 Group 013: Idle Stabilization
-0.12 mg/str Injection Quantity Cylinder 1
-0.16 mg/str Injection Quantity Cylinder 2
0.19 mg/str Injection Quantity Cylinder 3
0.09 mg/str Injection Quantity Cylinder 4

13 minutes after first reading:
14:20:03 Group 013: Idle Stabilization
-0.02 mg/str Injection Quantity Cylinder 1
-0.09 mg/str Injection Quantity Cylinder 2
0.12 mg/str Injection Quantity Cylinder 3
0.02 mg/str Injection Quantity Cylinder 4

 

[Thingsfallapart]

and make sure to use the OEM spring clamps

Why the need for spring clamps? I’ve read about expansion of plastic coolant flange. It seems a stainless worm clamp might cut into the hose.
I was able to cut the flange back but it’s very sort but the heater works. I am thinking about adding an extension with 3/4” heating hose and a 3/4” hose nipple. I would use the spring clamp on the plastic flange and two worm clamps on the brass nipple. The extension would allow the air escape hole to function. The assembly: core flange 3/4” hose secured with spring clamp to core and worm clamp to brass nipple, coolant line with bleed hole secured to brass nipple with worm clamp.

 

[Brian's96TDIPASSAT]

I wish my daughters 05 was still around. Near 250K and it still looked like and rode/ran like a 50K car. Loosing it was not my choice, it protected our daughter when she ran off the road and 4 air bags blew and she walked away.