Noise from 06 Jetta TDI, DMF?

[TDICrazier]

Hi guys,
I searched this board on the DMF issue, seems like quite a common issue for 06 Jetta TDI. Mine has only 87000 miles. Before I go order the thing, I am attaching a recording asking you guys to tell me if it is the cause. There is no metal sound but like a plastic flapping sound. Much appreciated.

Here is the recording. Click and wait a little.
recorded at atop engine

 

[relumalutan]

That sounds to me like a failing DMF. At least my car was making that noise when the DMF went bad.

 

[TDICrazier]

thanks relumalutan! that was my suspicion too.
i forgot to mention - the noise comes only when idle. hopefully more people can chime in.

 

[kbaisley]

DMF Time... I have had to do two in the past year.

 

[TDICrazier]

DMF Time... I have had to do two in the past year.

thanks. looks like have to go through the same route...

two parts come to scope -
luk dmf092, about $350 delivered.
oem parts no. W0133-2187767. $370 delivered. is this better?

a local mechanic quoted to me labor $800, someone told me he got it done at $600. sounds about right?
also need new dsg oil although i replaced it about 7000 miles ago. do i need new bolts?

by the way, i might sell it after fix.

 

[Mad_Max]

thanks. looks like have to go through the same route...

two parts come to scope -
luk dmf092, about $350 delivered.
oem parts no. W0133-2187767. $370 delivered. is this better?

a local mechanic quoted to me labor $800. sounds about right?
also need new dsg oil although i replaced it about 7000 miles ago. do i need new bolts?

by the way, i might sell it after fix.

Not sure about Bay area labor prices.
You will need multiple new bolts because quite a few if them are single use stretch ones.

If you are debating on selling, why not try to sell before you invest ~$1200 + DSG oil in it. I do not know what the numbers would be, but you might be better off. Just a thought.

Max
Max

 

[relumalutan]

Luk DMF092, it's better than OEM. I have replaced the failing OEM with a 092 in my car and its been OK for the past 120k miles and counting.

 

[TDICrazier]

Not sure about Bay area labor prices.
You will need multiple new bolts because quite a few if them are single use stretch ones.

If you are debating on selling, why not try to sell before you invest ~$1200 + DSG oil in it. I do not know what the numbers would be, but you might be better off. Just a thought.

Max
Max

i know your point makes more sense... two months ago i bought a hybrid plug-in, so i posted this car for sale. the car is in like new condition, inside out, and i maintained it meticulously since day one, therefore two guys drove hours (one 7 hours another 3 hours) to come see it, and both came with their own mechanic. i knew for sure they really had planned to buy it. in both instances, the mechanic pointed out the noise of dmf and gave up. i hadn't had the knowledge about dmf until then. i felt terrible in both cases.

i assume many people don't want to deal with uncertainties or troubles; i guess i might have to go this step. no?

 

[kbaisley]

With your car only having 87K, it will go a for a premium. Personally, when ever I buy one of these cars(I have a few of them in the family) I buy them with the intention of replacing all of these common wear items (Cam - DMF - Harness Repairs) that being said, I go for the cheap ones at the auction.

There is absolutely ZERO reason to replace the fluid if it was done 7k ago. You MIGHT get some that leaks out when you pull the right flange to drop the trans, but that is a "might". From what I have gathered, from a retail perspective, I have seen 500 to 800.The DMF can be had on Ebay from forum supporting vendors like Cascade Bora ECS Metalman (I bought my last one from metalman). I would recommend replacing the three right trans mount bolts. (I do not drop the subframe - I pull the core support and it drops right out for me) If you are mechanically inclined, it can be a DIY, BUT it's not for the faint hearted if you are an amateur mechanic.

Either way, you are going to lose 1K approx. You can be upfront when you sell it and note it in the ad. You can then provide the estimate, but this gives the buyer leverage to work you down. Personally, I would fix the DMF and push it as a low mileage opportunity that it is. Especially if you have service records.

How much are you asking for the car?

 

[TDICrazier]

How much are you asking for the car?

$8800 for now, not factored DMF yet

 

[TDICrazier]

found a reputable shop (yelp has 10 comments all in 5, and google has 16 all in 5) at a small town about 70 miles from me, which quoted $200 less than the lowest in my area in 40 miles radius. i might go there when i have a day to kill .

thanks to all who shared your experience and info!!

 

[icecap]

Hi guys,
I searched this board on the DMF issue, seems like quite a common issue for 06 Jetta TDI. Mine has only 87000 miles. Before I go order the thing, I am attaching a recording asking you guys to tell me if it is the cause. There is no metal sound but like a plastic flapping sound. Much appreciated.

Here is the recording. Click and wait a little.
recorded at atop engine

At around 90K miles I started to get a pronounced engine vibration at idle but no unusual noises. I did the cam timing adjustment as per YouTube video to correct the vibration and it improved but didn't eliminate the vibration.

Several months later on a hard pull I noticed my clutch was slipping so took it in to an independent import garage and they replaced my clutch which shouldn't have been slipping because it looked good and had lots of lining left. They found the DMF was shot and had lots of free play due to weakened or broken springs.

I had them install a new Sachs "Quiet Clutch" SMF conversion kit and my idle vibration was gone. I had trouble getting used to that DMF and clutch setup since the car was new and hated the feel of it. I initially had a lot of trouble stalling the car and wondered whether I forgot how to drive a standard.

The Sachs Clutch and SMF feels just the way it should have felt all along I wish this clutch had been installed from the factory instead of the crap DMF it came with.

 

[TDICrazier]

thanks icecap! i noticed yours is a 5speed, looks like both dsg and stick shift have the same problem.
all seem pointing to the same place. i have ordered the parts, it's on the way now. hopefully all goes well after install.
best wishes!

 

[oilhammer]

Hmmm.... just to clarify, since there seems to be some misinformation here:

Luk is who made the original DMF, and there have been several supercessions which usually means some sort of improvement. The only difference between an OEM DMF and a Luk DMF is the box (OEM will be in a tan cardboard VAG box, Luk will be in their standard yellow and white box) and the Luk one will not have the VAG part number printed in ink on the part itself alongside the Luk number, it will JUST have the Luk number.

There is no reason to remove an axle flange to R&R this transmission. The 02E is easily one of the easiest FWD auto transmissions to R&R. No torque converter bolts to mess with, plenty of room, pull it loose, tilt it a bit and drop it straight down.

Book labor time is 6 hours. Hourly rate will of course vary, but time should be pretty uniform.

The main bolts that are best to replace are the three big vertical M12 bolts that hold the transmission mount to the bracket atop the transmission.

You do not need to mess with the ATF to do this job. You will need to remove the cooler hoses, so a wee bit of coolant gets lost, but not much if you clamp the hoses off like I do. Maybe a cup.. or so.

I do not remove the axles from the car, either. I drop the subframe assembly, with the steering rack still attached, and then I unbolt the axles from the transmission and swing them out of the way. Really, really easy job.

 

[TDICrazier]

Hmmm.... just to clarify, since there seems to be some misinformation here:
Luk is who made the original DMF, and there have been several supercessions which usually means some sort of improvement. The only difference between an OEM DMF and a Luk DMF is the box (OEM will be in a tan cardboard VAG box, Luk will be in their standard yellow and white box) and the Luk one will not have the VAG part number printed in ink on the part itself alongside the Luk number, it will JUST have the Luk number.
There is no reason to remove an axle flange to R&R this transmission. The 02E is easily one of the easiest FWD auto transmissions to R&R. No torque converter bolts to mess with, plenty of room, pull it loose, tilt it a bit and drop it straight down.
Book labor time is 6 hours. Hourly rate will of course vary, but time should be pretty uniform.
The main bolts that are best to replace are the three big vertical M12 bolts that hold the transmission mount to the bracket atop the transmission.
You do not need to mess with the ATF to do this job. You will need to remove the cooler hoses, so a wee bit of coolant gets lost, but not much if you clamp the hoses off like I do. Maybe a cup.. or so.
I do not remove the axles from the car, either. I drop the subframe assembly, with the steering rack still attached, and then I unbolt the axles from the transmission and swing them out of the way. Really, really easy job.

oilhammer, i wish you were a couple hours drive from me that i don't have to go find another shop to do the job for me.

your info is invaluable, i'd sure bring it with me to remind the mechanic who will perform on it.

the followings are the photos for the dmf092 i purchased. do those sound right?

thanks!

 

[TDICrazier]

a quick update -
my dmf springs weren't broken, but a big play made noise. here is a video:
https://youtu.be/_zEb0A0uQ5w
after change-over, it's quiet and smooth.