Need Hitch Advice! Frustrated!!!

[PerpetualTraveler]

Hitch Advice - Problem Solved!

Update 6-10-19...problem solved! Westfalia fixed hitch ordered through PF Jones, 2006 T@B camper - 1600lbs dry/180lbs tongue.

Edited post!
Sounds like my best choices are: 1) install a stock Draw Tite or Curt hitch and beef up the suspension or springs to reduce sag; 2) find a shop who can customize a rig for me.
Any recommendations on someone in the Southeast USA who can think outside the box and make a set up work for a 12 Golf. I dislike the idea of a Curt/Draw Tite because they sit below the bumper. An Auto Hak from etowbars.com will cost around $600 just for the hitch and I can't find a source for a Bosal hitch.
Thank you!!

 

[dandywriter]

I have had a Bosal 50mm hitch for about 10 years. It's 1.97". It works without a problem with 2" couplers. I keep the ball and coupler mechanism lubed.


I'm looking at buying a 2012-2014 Golf Sportwagen and moving the hitch to that. Bumper has to come down, and exhaust briefly, but I'm happy with the Bosal (was a coin toss when I bought with Westphalia, shipping decided it).



You might want to consider Eco Hitch https://torkliftcentral.com/trailer-hitches/rear-mounted-receiver-hitches/ecohitch/volkswagen . They have a 2" ball if you want it.

 

[PB_NB]

When looking at the hitch, consider the tongue weight as well.

The tongue weight should be about 10% or greater of the trailer weight to balance out stability and swaying. If you go too light on the tongue, you can experience swaying at highway speeds (over ~60 to 65 mph). I say this because some of the hitches have a very low tongue weight maximum.



European designs allow for higher trailer weight with a lower tongue weight because motorists are restricted to a maximum speed (I think it is 60 mph) that wont get them in trouble with out of control swaying.

For example: the gooseneck style hitches have a max tow weight of 3,500 lbs but a max tongue weight of 165 lbs which is about 5%. (These may not be exact numbers)

When we built (nothing was available on the market) our hitch, we made sure that we could support a higher tongue weight. Our trailer is just over 2,000 lbs and the tongue is over 200 lbs. I usually don't drive over 65 mph with it just because it is a huge wind restrictor and acts like a parachute on the car.

The weight distribution hitches are a good idea and offer a good level of stability and drivability. They do put different loads on the car's chassis that should be considered.

 

[PerpetualTraveler]

When looking at the hitch, consider the tongue weight as well.

The tongue weight should be about 10% or greater of the trailer weight to balance out stability and swaying. If you go too light on the tongue, you can experience swaying at highway speeds (over ~60 to 65 mph). I say this because some of the hitches have a very low tongue weight maximum.



European designs allow for higher trailer weight with a lower tongue weight because motorists are restricted to a maximum speed (I think it is 60 mph) that wont get them in trouble with out of control swaying.

For example: the gooseneck style hitches have a max tow weight of 3,500 lbs but a max tongue weight of 165 lbs which is about 5%. (These may not be exact numbers)

When we built (nothing was available on the market) our hitch, we made sure that we could support a higher tongue weight. Our trailer is just over 2,000 lbs and the tongue is over 200 lbs. I usually don't drive over 65 mph with it just because it is a huge wind restrictor and acts like a parachute on the car.

The weight distribution hitches are a good idea and offer a good level of stability and drivability. They do put different loads on the car's chassis that should be considered.

Nice setup! I'm towing an '06 T@B. Tongue weight is about 150-180lbs so it can be a little heavy on the front. Battery/propane and front galley all forward of the axel. I wish a place like CanAm were closer to they could customize the set up for my car. I'm trying to put all the components together myself and it's not working out well! Thanks for the advice!

 

[PerpetualTraveler]

Yeah, I really wanted an eco hitch first. Torklift doesn't make a hitch for a '12 Golf TDI but, if I want to drive to NW Washington, they'll make a custom one for me!

The Bosal hitch comes with a 2" ball? Can't seem to find where to order a Bosal either. ID Parts doesn't have one for the Golf VI

 

[PB_NB]

Our hitch was made for the car. The same guys that did the exhaust and big brakes also did the hitch while that car was apart.

Our replaces the bumper rebar and goes into the chassis about 12" where it is secured with rather large bolts. I set the hitch height based on the trailer hitch height. Then I had the receiver welded up out of a Reese adjustable receiver. That way I was able to get the rig to sit level. Then I beefed up the rear shocks with some KW V3 that have rebound and bounce adjustments. This made the ride much better and less bouncing deflection at the hitch.

I also put some 17" BFGoodrich Comp TA's on the trailer and sold the mushy 13" trailer tires. This stiffened up the trailer roll which helped to eliminate side to side oscillations which begin when swaying starts.

We looked at the T@B trailers and found that they were very well built and equipped. Then we found this Camplite unit which is all aluminum (light weight) and allows us to stand up with 6'-4" of ceiling clearance which we didn't find in the T@Bs. I played around with fore and aft weight. I added 2 more 6 volt batteries to the rear with 2 up front. I have 3 20 pound propane bottles so I can move the weight on or off the hitch. We also have solar panels that can be moved around. This way I can move the load accordingly to adjust the tongue weight.

Maybe this method can be used so you can move the weight back and forth over the axle to help control the tongue weight.

 

[mercdude]

I have had a Bosal 50mm hitch for about 10 years. It's 1.97". It works without a problem with 2" couplers. I keep the ball and coupler mechanism lubed.


I'm looking at buying a 2012-2014 Golf Sportwagen and moving the hitch to that. Bumper has to come down, and exhaust briefly, but I'm happy with the Bosal (was a coin toss when I bought with Westphalia, shipping decided it).



You might want to consider Eco Hitch https://torkliftcentral.com/trailer-hitches/rear-mounted-receiver-hitches/ecohitch/volkswagen . They have a 2" ball if you want it.

Been down this road with my jsw - if you install a curt/drawtite, you will scrape on almost every bump and it looks atrocious and it’s not an Easy install due to the blind nuts you have to slide down the frame rail.

I had that for about 1 week and hated it to death. Swapped out to an eco hitch and been good for the last few years. You will be required to take bumper off, notch it, and lower/unbolt muffler but overall not a hard install if you’re careful with the notching.


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[PerpetualTraveler]

Moving some weight off of the tongue is definitely a good idea.T@Bs don't have a back bumper so moving anything aft would mean putting it inside. I have a 12v battery and 1 20lb propane tank on the tongue.

 

[PerpetualTraveler]

mercdude...my experience as well with a Draw Tite. Back to the drawing board!

 

[JELLOWSUBMARINE]

Been down this road with my jsw - if you install a curt/drawtite, you will scrape on almost every bump and it looks atrocious and it’s not an Easy install due to the blind nuts you have to slide down the frame rail.

I had that for about 1 week and hated it to death. Swapped out to an eco hitch and been good for the last few years. You will be required to take bumper off, notch it, and lower/unbolt muffler but overall not a hard install if you’re careful with the notching.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My eco hitch is going on tomorrow. Looks well built, powder coated and $300ish shipped. I didnt want a pavement scrapper. Best thing is the 2" receiver with class III rating. You can always adapt to a 1.25 but to go to 2" is just hazardous

 

[Figit090]

Edited post!

Sounds like my best choices are: 1) install a stock Draw Tite or Curt hitch and beef up the suspension or springs to reduce sag; 2) find a shop who can customize a rig for me.

Any recommendations on someone in the Southeast USA who can think outside the box and make a set up work for a 12 Golf. I dislike the idea of a Curt/Draw Tite because they sit below the bumper. An Auto Hak from etowbars.com will cost around $600 just for the hitch and I can't find a source for a Bosal hitch.

Thank you!!

Whatever IDparts doesn't have remaining in stock you'll have to pay for shipping from Europe. On mkiv jettas the bar replaces the 5mph bumper and isn't DOT approved, so they aren't easy or cheap to get without a supplier like IDparts. Bosal also stopped making towbars, so good luck finding what you need.

PF Jones carries Witter towbars, some of which have a removable tongue like the Bosal setup. They look pretty good and they make bike racks too. There's a couple designs for the neck attachment, and some have a flange you can unbolt the ball as well as remove the neck from the bar (if memory serves). Try there, and see if you can find a part number you like.

PF Jones tended to have the best prices, other options are lesser known 3rd party sellers on amazon or ebay because Bosal is now obsolete and stocks are lower. I found some were willing to sell me a mkiv hitch, but at a huge cost. Figure $500 easy total after shipping for a $250-300 part.

 

[AllieJetta]

Just installed the ecohitch / torklift on my JSW a few weeks ago and was very impressed with the quality, construction and ease of installation (did it myself). Doesn't hang down and doesn't scrape even going in and out of my steep driveway.

 

[PerpetualTraveler]

Torklift doesn't make an eco hitch for a '12 Golf VI

 

[PerpetualTraveler]

Thanks for the input! etowbars.com has a good looking hitch made by Auto Hak (https://etowbars.com/Towbars/Volkswagen/Golf-V-VI). Problem is it will cost about $300 more to ship to the US. A removable hitch is over US$600, plus labor to install it.

My local hitch place will install and they said it looks like a better fit/design than Curt/Drawtite but the whole thing will run me over $800 for the hitch and install. Plus I probably still need to do something about sag in the rear end.

 

[PerpetualTraveler]

Thank you! I so appreciate this information!

 

[JELLOWSUBMARINE]

My eco hitch is going on tomorrow. Looks well built, powder coated and $300ish shipped. I didnt want a pavement scrapper. Best thing is the 2" receiver with class III rating. You can always adapt to a 1.25 but to go to 2" is just hazardous

Got the bumper installed, wife brought back. She says what do you want with the bumper brace? Bumper??? Sure enough a bumper was in the box.... Looked the directions over, a little vague on bumper reinforcement replacement. Went to ecohitch sportwagen on youtube, it showed clearly bumper install. Phone call to shop, excuse was abit confusing by the installer. He stated he didn't get the studded bolts allowing bracket install... errr. Called Matt @ manufacture, he was awesome, he'll be sending new bolt package.

note
Although I wont drive the car until the bumper bracket is on for safety reason, we did test drive home and across my dip in the driveway. It has great clearance. The 2" receiver does garner attention as your used to seeing a measly 1.25 receiver LOL

 

[AllieJetta]

Are you saying that your shop installed the hitch directly to the car but didn't reinstall the actual metal bumper bar over top of it like they were supposed to? Or just the little styrofoam 5mph reinforcement that sits between the bumper bar and the fascia?

 

[JELLOWSUBMARINE]

Are you saying that your shop installed the hitch directly to the car but didn't reinstall the actual metal bumper bar over top of it like they were supposed to? Or just the little styrofoam 5mph reinforcement that sits between the bumper bar and the fascia?

No metal bumper, no foam. Im still not certain if the foam is used. You tube shows the installl with out the foam. Even my call to the Matt @ the manufacture was not clear on reuse.
BTW I was furious over this by a very qualified and trusted shop. I had to write off a confused day as he is a very tired new dad.

I cant find a poll option but any Eco hitch owner can chime in:
1) Confusion on re-installing metal crash bar? Anyone did not install?
2) Did or did NOT install foam? fitting issues?

thanks all

 

[AllieJetta]

Metal crash bar ABSOLUTELY has to be reinstalled, no questions asked. The foam cannot be reinstalled as it pushes the bumper cover out too far to allow it properly click in and be remounted securely.

 

[JELLOWSUBMARINE]

Metal crash bar ABSOLUTELY has to be reinstalled, no questions asked. The foam cannot be reinstalled as it pushes the bumper cover out too far to allow it properly click in and be remounted securely.

That's what sent me over the edge yesterday. Being a retired tech I got some occasional brain dead jobs, but this? I'll chalk it up to the late nights with a newborn, the guy is really good, known for miles with Subaru's especially mod's/tuning stuff. Pretty unusual mess up.

Anyhow, the manufacture is sending a set of bolts that the shop lost(?). We'll be good to go then. It does however bug me that the foam is not inserted. Seems it could be trimmed to fit?

 

[PerpetualTraveler]

Have you seen this install video? Pretty clear about the bumper.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIw1a4K0sgQ