Mini Bixenons in my New Beetle!

[MrMark]

No, I put it off till today, but it was raining today... I should get to it sometime this weekend.

Yep, kinda proud of that little switch, aren't they?

Indeed.

Yeah, it's raining here too...seems like every day. We almost got water in the house a few weeks ago...an epic rain following an epic drought...it doesn't seem good. We sure need rain, but I don't know how much good it does when it all comes at once.

But in any case, the rain is putting a bit a damper on my enthusiasm for tinkering with the car. My current headlight housings are in pretty delicate condition. I kind of hate to pull them out until I have something to replace them with for fear that they'll just fall apart. Otherwise, I'd just go make some measurements of my own. But no worries...please don't knock yourself out just to measure that for me...I will take it apart after the replacement housings arrive if you don't tell me first. I'm just anxious to get the HID stuff ordered...

 

[boertje]

No, may have to get that through 1stVWparts.

No dice on that. Spent 30 minutes on the phone with them. The switch is euro and thus not available thru them and as such, they had no way of knowing what plug it uses. The closest they could come was 1J0941333B which is a different animal. I plan on calling ecs Monday since they sell the switch we need in which case they should also be able to source the plug as well. If that fails I know Ryanp can help me out with this as he has on other euro stuff.

 

[FlyTDI Guy]

The 'Euro' dimmer switch (w/leveler) uses the std. connector. You do need to add the contact via a wire repair kit. The spot for it is already there. These switches are available from ECS, parts4euro, and sometimes even ebay. I just got mine from ECS.

 

[boertje]

So are there then 2 plugs that go into the 333a switch? I found the switch on ecs tuning web site. I pulled mine out and there are no places to add a repair kit for wiring. It is a 3 wire plug only and the part number of my switch is 1J0941333B which will only accept a 3 wire plug.

 

[schwarze Käfer]

Output Stills

Video can't capture the true performance of the FX-Rs, however, still photography does a much better job....

That's what the FX-Rs really do, wish I could get it on video.

James

 

[IXLR8]

Are those low beam or high? Which version of the FX-R's do you have?

 

[schwarze Käfer]

Are those low beam or high? Which version of the FX-R's do you have?

The 2nd and last pics are with high beams. The original version, some, such as TRS now call it ver. 1.1. The main advantage is the ability to change the beam angle with the range motors.

James

 

[schwarze Käfer]

Example Videos of the Leveling/Range Motor speed and accuracy:

FX-R Retrofit Leveling Motor Example

New Beetle FX-R Leveling Motor Articulation

 

[MrMark]

Example Videos of the Leveling/Range Motor speed and accuracy:

Looks very responsive...hope I can make mine work so well. I got my headlight assemblies today, so now I will be less hesitant to pull out my existing ones to measure for ballast clearance...I'm anxious to order the HID stuff!

 

[schwarze Käfer]

Looks very responsive...hope I can make mine work so well. I got my headlight assemblies today, so now I will be less hesitant to pull out my existing ones to measure for ballast clearance...I'm anxious to order the HID stuff!

It's 75F here today, so I'll be pulling mine out in a few minutes... I'll be sure to measure!

James

 

[schwarze Käfer]

Looks very responsive...hope I can make mine work so well. I got my headlight assemblies today, so now I will be less hesitant to pull out my existing ones to measure for ballast clearance...I'm anxious to order the HID stuff!

By my measurements, neither the Three-5 or Five-5 ballast will fit inside the frame rail without modifying the rails. They show their ballasts to be 75mm x 90mm x 30mm (20mm for the 35watt).

My Raptor ballasts (70mm x 82mm x 30mm) are slightly smaller than the Morimoto and they won't fit inside, either.

My DDM slim ballasts do fit inside the rails. (60mm x 85mm x 15mm)

I guesstimate 62mm max vertical and 45mm horizontal for the rail. There's a couple of bolts inside the frame rail, so it's difficult to get an exact measurement.

I measured the passenger side frame rail, not the driver side. I don't know if they are both exactly the same size, but my Raptor ballasts won't fit inside either side's frame rail.

Anyways, doesn't look like either version of the TRS Morimoto ballast will fit inside the frame rail, Mark. However, with a clamp on style mount, they could be mounted on the outer sides of the rails.

James

 

[MrMark]

Anyways, doesn't look like either version of the TRS Morimoto ballast will fit inside the frame rail, Mark. However, with a clamp on style mount, they could be mountedt on the outer sides of the rails.

James

Man, you saved me the trouble - thanks for that. Maybe I should not be so worried about putting the ballasts inside. If true, I should probably ask you, what kind of clamp-on mount do you have in mind?

 

[hpc]

Man, you saved me the trouble - thanks for that. Maybe I should not be so worried about putting the ballasts inside. If true, I should probably ask you, what kind of clamp-on mount do you have in mind?

Second that question.

Is there a maximum to how long the ballast lead/extension can be?


Thanks James!

 

[schwarze Käfer]

Man, you saved me the trouble - thanks for that. Maybe I should not be so worried about putting the ballasts inside. If true, I should probably ask you, what kind of clamp-on mount do you have in mind?

I don't know, yet.... Something that could clamp onto the frame rail, as it'd be next to impossible to drill holes in the frame rail to install a standard mount - too tight in there. May have to fab something that can slip over the frame rail and clamp down with a bolt or two.
I've got a bunch of aluminum flat bar stock on it's way...

That's another one of those things I haven't gotten to, but it shouldn't take much to come up with a solution.

James

 

[schwarze Käfer]

Second that question.

Is there a maximum to how long the ballast lead/extension can be?


Thanks James!

I know that you can buy extensions in a variety of lengths. 1', 2', 3', 4', even up to 7' long. That would open up more mounting options.
It's AC voltage, so as long as the cable is good, there probably wouldn't be any issues. Of course, using the shortest possible would be best.

 

[MrMark]

I don't know, yet.... Something that could clamp onto the frame rail, as it'd be next to impossible to drill holes in the frame rail to install a standard mount - too tight in there. May have to fab something that can slip over the frame rail and clamp down with a bolt or two.
I've got a bunch of aluminum flat bar stock on it's way...

That's another one of those things I haven't gotten to, but it shouldn't take much to come up with a solution.

James

Hmmm...how about an aluminum plate to mount the ballast on with some reduced-width ears on each end, suitable for attachment to the frame rail with stainless steel hose clamps? Or is the rail too irregularly shaped for that to work?

 

[MrMark]

I know that you can buy extensions in a variety of lengths. 1', 2', 3', 4', even up to 7' long. That would open up more mounting options.
It's AC voltage, so as long as the cable is good, there probably wouldn't be any issues. Of course, using the shortest possible would be best.

Ahhh, see this is where Ohm's law actually works to our advantage - at high voltages, very little current is required, so you don't need big conductors to handle long cables. The only catch is that the insulation needs to be good enough to prevent arcing. I assume that if they sell extensions for the purpose, they would have to have appropriate insulation, or they just wouldn't work at all! Right?

 

[schwarze Käfer]

I'll look into a clamp that we can slip on the frame rail. I think that'll be the best way to mount the ballasts. It's a perfect place to mount them. (Probably the best we'll find on the bug.)
James

 

[schwarze Käfer]

Ahhh, see this is where Ohm's law actually works to our advantage - at high voltages, very little current is required, so you don't need big conductors to handle long cables. The only catch is that the insulation needs to be good enough to prevent arcing. I assume that if they sell extensions for the purpose, they would have to have appropriate insulation, or they just wouldn't work at all! Right?

Yep. They look like the same cable that most ballasts use. Silicon insulation on the wires themselves and heavy plastic outer casing. They're pretty tough.

 

[hpc]

Hey James,


Could one fabricate a plate that uses the screw holes that hold the (rear)
black cover onto the assembly. Sorry don't lights in front of me and it's
been a few weeks since I last looked at the back.

If I recall correctly, there are two, I think, screws that secure/hold the black cover
in place. I don't remember looking to see if the screw holes are up to holding
any additional weight.

Or could you attach the plate to the black cover by drilling holes for
bolts to secure it. There again, I don't know if the cover and its securing
screw holes can handle the additional weight, vibration, and inertial moment
caused by the plate and the ballast.

OOPS! Just thought of something - is there enough room behind the headlight
assembly once it's in position to accommodate a plate and ballast?

Could you attach the ballast to the black surround housing that holds
the headlight assembly? I know it's thin sheet metal. Hmmm...I
think space might be at a premium - the coolant tank and fuel filter
are in the way; and the battery and air box on the driver's side...hmmm.

Cheers!

 

[schwarze Käfer]

Hey James,

Could one fabricate a plate that uses the screw holes that hold the (rear)
black cover onto the assembly.

OOPS! Just thought of something - is there enough room behind the headlight assembly.... <snip> !

Nope, no room between the back cover and the back of the headlight bucket, but good idea!

Could you attach the ballast to the black surround housing that holds
the headlight assembly? I know it's thin sheet metal. Hmmm...I
think space might be at a premium - the coolant tank and fuel filter
are in the way; and the battery and air box on the driver's side...hmmm.
Cheers!

I haven't looked too closely at that, but there may be room underneath the headlight bucket, but it may be tough to get at.

There is plenty of room on the outer sides (fender sides) of the frame rails. I really think that it's the best location. Just need to come up with a way to mount the ballasts to the outer frame rails. Again, it shouldn't be hard, I just haven't tried it, yet.

When I get my aluminum flat bar stock, I'll try fabbing a clamping mount.
I think a couple of 4" or 5" strips of bar stock and a couple of bolts will do the job. The idea here is to make a sandwich style clamp mount that slips over the outer vertical wall of the frame rail.

The ballast bracket will mount to the outer strip of bar stock (the strip that is outside the frame rail). Bolt the outer and inner strip of bar stock together at the front. Have a threaded bolt hole & short bolt towards the back of the inner strip (that fits inside the frame rail). Slide it over the outer edge of the frame rail. Tighten the bolt on the inside strip (inside the frame rail), with a box or open end wrench.
Voila - simple clamp mount. Shouldn't even have to drill a hole in the car.

The bolt on the front of the two strips will serve as a stop against the frame rail to keep the assembly from rotating...

BTW, the frame rail is just sheetmetal with an open end...

James

 

[FlyTDI Guy]

So are there then 2 plugs that go into the 333a switch? I found the switch on ecs tuning web site. I pulled mine out and there are no places to add a repair kit for wiring. It is a 3 wire plug only and the part number of my switch is 1J0941333B which will only accept a 3 wire plug.

I'll have to double check mine. I remember the harness plug as having all the spots for the Euro switch only some of them weren't populated w/the connectors. There is a leveler kit at ECS also (again memory, needs verifying) that includes all the stuff. I also remember thinking it was expensive for what you got. I'll check my connector and see if this is CRS or what.

 

[boertje]

Received my OEM E-code bixenon kit made by automotive lighting today. It has the ballast and relay with harnesses and adapter to retro fit older bugs. Problem is that the adapter is 5 pin and my car has 3 pin. I mapped out the wiring and found the 5 pin to be 2 grounds, city lights, low and high beam. Looks straight forward. I will have to bring out 2 additional wires for the leveler, one for 12 volts, the other to a rheostat, if I want manual leveler capabilities. Not sure this is even necessary since the headlights have the same adjusters as does the halogens. However, I will create a pig tail for future wiring if I want it.
The headlights themselves fit the 01 bug perfectly.
So after I mapped out the harness, I decided to test the setup on my shop floor. They both worked with high and low beam, but, WOW, let there be light! For kicks I fired up my bug halogens and compared them on my white wall both low and high beam. What a difference! My halogens have new philips crystal vision bulbs and so they were nice and white and bright, however, they could not compare to the white and bright of the HID 35w whether on low or high.
Can't wait to get them installed.

 

[schwarze Käfer]

Received my OEM E-code bixenon kit <snip>

Great! I can't wait to see pictures! (take lots of 'em) Yeah, you don't have to have the leveling motors, but I promise you'll love them if you get them working. (you won't have to compromise on your vertical adjustment with them)

 

[MrMark]

Materials:
1. 8-32 threaded rod - cut it to 130mm (1 for each headlight)
2. 3/8 brass lamp balls with 8-32 threads (2 for each headlight)
3. 2" Stanley corner brackets (#75-6631 4 pack)
4. #10 screws (1/2" long), nuts, lockwasher (2 for each headlight)
5. 8-32 screw (3" long) (1 for each headlight)
6. 8-32 nuts (7 for each headlight)
7. 1" fender washer (2)
8. 1-1/4" fender washer (2)
9. Blue Locktite

So James, I'm having a little trouble finding items 2 and 3. Where did you buy those?

 

[schwarze Käfer]

So James, I'm having a little trouble finding items 2 and 3. Where did you buy those?

My local hardware store had them, but I can understand chain stores not carrying the threaded balls.

If you can handle waiting a few days, PM your mailing address and I'll send what you need.

And, if you don't mind waiting a few additional days, I'll fab up a set of aluminum hangers. I just bought some new toys so I can cut them directly from aluminum stock. I'm just waiting for the aluminum to arrive. (should be here in the next few days)

James

 

[MrMark]

My local hardware store had them, but I can understand chain stores not carrying the threaded balls.

If you can handle waiting a few days, PM your mailing address and I'll send what you need.

And, if you don't mind waiting a few additional days, I'll fab up a set of aluminum hangers. I just bought some new toys so I can cut them directly from aluminum stock. I'm just waiting for the aluminum to arrive. (should be here in the next few days)

James

We have a pretty good local hardware store, but they didn't have those particular items...lots of other lamp hardware though! In any case, yeah, absolutely, I'll take you up on all of the above!

I just sent you a PM, but how can I reimburse you?

 

[schwarze Käfer]

We have a pretty good local hardware store, but they didn't have those particular items...lots of other lamp hardware though! In any case, yeah, absolutely, I'll take you up on all of the above!

I just sent you a PM, but how can I reimburse you?

Ok, got your PM...
Tell you what, your input on improving them will be reimbursement enough. Deal?

You want to wait for the aluminum or you want the steel corner brackets. (aluminum is better)

 

[MrMark]

Ok, got your PM...
Tell you what, your input on improving them will be reimbursement enough. Deal?

You want to wait for the aluminum or you want the steel corner brackets. (aluminum is better)

That seems pretty generous man...and I'm happy to wait for the aluminum.

Me thinks I should go ahead and order some HID kits...I'm thinking about this kit:

Bi-xenon FX-R Stage III Kit

Ballasts: Morimoto 5Five (50w)
Bulbs: New Philips 85122+ D2S
CCFL Angel Eyes: No
Projectors: LHD (North American Standard)
Re-sealing Glue: No Thanks
Shrouds: MC-R
Wire Harness: Relay: 9006

Not sure about the wire harness...any thoughts on any of these components?

 

[schwarze Käfer]

That seems pretty generous man...and I'm happy to wait for the aluminum.

Me thinks I should go ahead and order some HID kits...I'm thinking about this kit:

Bi-xenon FX-R Stage III Kit

Ballasts: Morimoto 5Five (50w)
Bulbs: New Philips 85122+ D2S
CCFL Angel Eyes: No
Projectors: LHD (North American Standard)
Re-sealing Glue: No Thanks
Shrouds: MC-R
Wire Harness: Relay: 9006

Not sure about the wire harness...any thoughts on any of these components?

Looks good. Harness? You'll need a harness, but until I figure out a wiring route and mounting location, your kinda on your own with that...
(I don't know what the lengths of the leads will need to be)

I hobbled a temporary harness together from wire, a relay and inline fuse I had, but it's not really properly mounted and I didn't measure anything. I just cut the wire to fit as I routed it, slide plastic loom over it, zip-tied it in place, and then crimped connectors on the ends.