Yes, that's the stuff, but did you specify version 1 (or 1.1) FX-Rs?
Man, I must be behind the times. I thought TRS had gone back to version 1 and that was all that they were selling at this point, so I didn't even give it any further thought. Looking at the kit page, they don't call out the version of the projectors at all. Actually, I just looked again and it does say, "Built around our FX-R 3.0 bi-xenon projectors". So almost certainly, I will get 3.0.
I was afraid of that. TRS didn't list the dimensions of the 3.0's mounting lugs, but I was reasonably sure they moved them. I'm ordering the 3.0 today. Once they arrive, it should only take a day or two for me to get the dimensions figured out and fab up a set of hangers for the 3.0.
I should probably do some more testing...I don't know how sophisticated the ballasts are, but it is conceivable that they could pull more current at lower input voltages if they are regulating the high-voltage output. My bench power supply was set at 13.8 volts while I was testing...the ballasts might pull more current at, say, 12 volts. It would be nice if I didn't need the harness though...
Yeah, TRS's website claims them to be 8 amp draw (when cold starting). That's cutting it a little close... Still, theoretically, the fuse should protect you, if you choose to run without a harness.
I tried it at a lower voltage, and while I was using a different meter, it looked like it was pulling more current. The lowest I could go was about 11 volts and at that voltage the run current was about 6.5 amps. Interestingly, it would not start at that voltage. Apparently it very briefly pulls very high current at start-up, so when I introduced enough test leads to my setup to actually measure it, the lamp wouldn't start. The spike was too short to see with my multimeter. I have another meter that has some peak-reading capabilities...I'll try it with that one when I get a few minutes.
The ballast draws more current during the "startup" phase than during "run" mode, but I've read that most ballasts will draw even more current during a "hot re-strike". Hot re-strike occurs when when you cycle a hot bulb on - off and then back on. Many early HID ballasts and most metal halid lights couldn't restart a hot bulb, without allowing them too cool off.
I didn't notice this question before...the Bi-xenon FX-R Stage III Kit page just describes it as, "Wire Harness Relay: H1".
From the best I can tell, the only difference is the the "harness input" plug. This plugs into one of your lowbeam bulb connectors and acts as the trigger for the relays. The beetle uses an H1 bulb, which standard spade connectors will connect with. Worse case is that you'd clip the connector off and crimp on a couple of spade connectors.
Sure, I can wire just about anything, so it's not a big problem for me, but I can see where it might be for some folks. At some level, I just want to be able to plug it in and start enjoying it...I'd like it better if I didn't have to reverse-engineer or re-engineer the kit. Maybe I was expecting too much.
I just received the 3.0's for my wifes Solara, it is plug and play except for mounting the parts and running a lead to power and ground. There should have been two connectors with no leads/pins in them. The leads from the shutter solenoid should plug into that connector, after you have fed the wires out through the bulb cover at final assembly. That connector should plug into one of the 'extra' plugs in the harness to give you your hi beam. The other connector in the harness should plug into your original connector going to the original bulb. This is assuming you did get the correct harness.
From the pdf Mark linked, the relay harness shown has no provision for the high beam solenoids. No matter, because for the beetle, all you have to do is put spade connectors on the pigtails from the solenoid and plug them to the stock high beam bulb connectors.
Thanks for taking the time to reply Jim.
They include y-cables and adapters, presumably for that purpose...it would probably work fine on most cars, but seems like an awful lot of clutter for a Beetle.
I fired up one of my projectors, but I have to admit that I don't have enough experience with HID lights to know if what I saw would be considered to be "good" or not.
The cut-off is stepped, as you described, and I would say that it is sharp and in focus.
Yes, the color band and flicker effect is purely subjective, and will cause some notice, however, they look about the same as most newer OEM HIDs. If your lights are properly aimed, you shouldn't have any problems. The only advantage of the flicker is that it seems to cause oncoming traffic to be more consciencious in dimming their lights. Don't know, but maybe they've been flashed with bi-xenon HIDs before and it's a kinda of Pavlovian response?
I found the post of the 3.0 dimensions, they just list the differences between the 1.1's and the 3.0's, I suspect not helpful at all to MrMark. To be honest, they are a bit confusing as well, I had trouble making sense out of them. I have fired mine up in the yard, holding them in my hand, lots of light. Wife was impressed by how they lite up the driveway/road, haven't told her yet they are for her car. But I have not finished the install into the headlight so not sure yet how they are on the road. The only pics I have seen of the 3.0's are the low beam. They do look more uniform than the 1.1's, but lots more foreground lighting, some say too much, at some expense of width. I have not seen any high beam shots yet.
From the beamshots I've seen, the width looks ok, but I'd gladly trade a little width for that smooth output. I've seen a highbeam shot somewhere on HIDP, and it looked about the same as version 1.
'Sounds like fun...I look forward to your comments!