IDParts Complete Lower Control arms w/ TT bushings...question?

KrashDH

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
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2002 Golf
Has anyone purchased these?


https://www.idparts.com/complete-co...golf-newbeetle-1j0407151c-46927hd-p-6179.html


Comes with a "HD" ball joint made by Spidan that I've never heard of before. I know IDparts sells quality stuff, but I'm wondering if anyone has real life experience with these?


Seems to me I have a balljoint killing itself, again.


I "upgraded" my LCA bushings a few years back to poly but I think I'm over that. If I'm doing ball joints, I'm thinking of just replacing with this kit to have the TT bushings already pressed in.


When I replaced the bushings on my current CA's, I greased everything so the next time they were going to come out I know it would be easy.


I'm worried with this new kit from ID that everything was likely pressed in and installed dry which means it will be a bear to get them out when they need replacing.


Any insight from anyone who's purchased?


Just trying to decide what's worth it. Was going to replace sway bar bushings while I was in there but found a receipt from a few years ago that I already replaced those, so I'd likely just do the sway bar links.
 

flee

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Chatsworth, CA
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2002 Jetta GLS wagon
I got my similar LCA's from Cascade and no complaints.
Hopefully Peter will weigh in with more details about his.
 

KrashDH

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Dec 22, 2013
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Washington
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2002 Golf
I got my similar LCA's from Cascade and no complaints.
Hopefully Peter will weigh in with more details about his.

Yeah I saw those on Cascade (Bora) as I've done a good amount of business with them. I'm really technically only in need of ball joints, but it seems just as easy to replace the entire LCA unit that comes with ball joints and the TT bushings and revert away from the Poly. I can either keep them as a backup set or just sell them on CL, I'm sure someone would want a set with Poly.
 

KrashDH

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Dec 22, 2013
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Washington
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2002 Golf
I went ahead and just ordered it all, looks like I'll have a full weekend of wrenching ahead between the car and the truck.


Control arm kits (with ball joint), sway bar links, tie rod ends.


I've done ball joints 3x times and I don't recall having to disconnect anything special, just had to get the knuckle in a specific orientation (this is with the LCA installed). I'm thinking I will just be able to drop the LCA/ball joint assembly out as 1 unit (and install the same way) since the TRE's will be the last thing to go on.


Guess I'll find out. This car unfortunately has been giving me a bit of bad juju the last few months. As soon as I fix one thing, something else happens. These issues have arisen on NEW (within the last 6 months) replaced parts so I think I'm just going through a bit of bad luck.


As well, my backup ride is also down for the count right now until parts get here, so I'm trying to be gentle on the car until I can get everything in. Sometimes I wonder that there are no safety backups in place for something that seems to fail so often (ahem....balljoints...cough). Maybe it's just me.
 

Rrusse11

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PA Deutsch Country
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2002 Golf, 5spd; 05 Jeep CRD
"I "upgraded" my LCA bushings a few years back to poly but I think I'm over that." KrashDH

Care to elaborate on why you're "over" the poly?
 

KrashDH

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Location
Washington
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2002 Golf
"I "upgraded" my LCA bushings a few years back to poly but I think I'm over that." KrashDH

Care to elaborate on why you're "over" the poly?

Honestly, the ride is harsh, there's no keeping them quiet without dousing them weekly with lube and they're wearing almost faster than OEM bushings. Not because of they're intended purpose, but when you install poly, they are not as flexible.


With as much front end work as I've done in the last few years, I've had to "over stress" the poly and flex it to uncomfortable angles in order to remove front end parts for the sake of vehicle down time. They don't allow as much flex in the LCA so to get something like a balljoint off you are ratchet strapping the LCA downward and if you look at what you're doing to those poly bushings it's pretty heinous.


They get pretty stretched and then the interfaces between bushing and LCA become loose and interface between poly sleeve and bushing material becomes loose. Poly are meant to be completely greasable as well...there are machined/extruded channels between the poly material and the sleeve. In our application, you cannot get grease in there except during the original install. So you're left with a lot of squeak and premature wear once that original grease wears out.



Because realistically, no one with poly bushings is dropping their LCA's bi-yearly to remove those bushings and re-grease all interfaces.
 

Rrusse11

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PA Deutsch Country
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Thanks Krash! My guru doesn't like poly either, on his recommendation
I've stuck with OEM rubber for bushings and the like, stiffer springs and
shocks for the suspension work. Stiffen the chassis with a couple of bars
and I'm done. His contention, supported by your experience, is that poly
is too harsh on the components.
 

Dh4276

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Jul 22, 2019
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South Carolina
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2006 Golf GLS TDI, BEW
I went ahead and just ordered it all, looks like I'll have a full weekend of wrenching ahead between the car and the truck.


Control arm kits (with ball joint), sway bar links, tie rod ends.


I've done ball joints 3x times and I don't recall having to disconnect anything special, just had to get the knuckle in a specific orientation (this is with the LCA installed). I'm thinking I will just be able to drop the LCA/ball joint assembly out as 1 unit (and install the same way) since the TRE's will be the last thing to go on.


Guess I'll find out. This car unfortunately has been giving me a bit of bad juju the last few months. As soon as I fix one thing, something else happens. These issues have arisen on NEW (within the last 6 months) replaced parts so I think I'm just going through a bit of bad luck.


As well, my backup ride is also down for the count right now until parts get here, so I'm trying to be gentle on the car until I can get everything in. Sometimes I wonder that there are no safety backups in place for something that seems to fail so often (ahem....balljoints...cough). Maybe it's just me.


Doing the entire LCA as an assembly is not bad at all. I had an old mk4 Jetta gas car and was able to change out the entire LCA on the side of the road when I had a ball joint fail and cause the LCA to get damaged. Didn’t even have a jack stand to use when I did it.


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Dh4276

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Jul 22, 2019
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I’m in need of rebuilding entire suspension, I’ve had to put it off so long I can’t afford to get the kit. I’m doing full suspension rebuild next month. Front and rear. Hopefully I will have no more bumps and bangs when I hit little bumps. And a smoother ride with fresh shocks and springs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

sriracha

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2005 Jetta Wagon 5mt, 1982 Rabbit truck (gas)
I purchased complete LCA with TT bushings, also. Just installed the springs/struts today. Installing the LCA’s tomorrow.
 

KrashDH

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Dec 22, 2013
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Washington
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2002 Golf
I purchased complete LCA with TT bushings, also. Just installed the springs/struts today. Installing the LCA’s tomorrow.
Nice let us know how they go!

This will be the 2nd time I've "refreshed" things ha.
Rear shocks twice in the last 5 months, 3 sets of rear shock mounts, many ball joints, LCA bushings (couple years ago, but still...), Brakes and rotors (fronts have been off and on 3x due to issues). I'm on a losing streak with this car right now.
It's been hard to trust it the last few months. Never had this many issues with new parts.
 

Nero Morg

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OR
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I have them on my wagon when I did my suspension refresh. Super awesome.
 

gforce1108

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Newburgh, NY
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04 Jetta GLS BEW, 03 Jetta Wagon ALH
I always just replace the existing bushings with the Audi TT versions. I did pick up a spare set of used OEM LCAs in case I need to have a set ready to go but since it's so quick to install a set of bushings - I haven't needed them.
 

KrashDH

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Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
I always just replace the existing bushings with the Audi TT versions. I did pick up a spare set of used OEM LCAs in case I need to have a set ready to go but since it's so quick to install a set of bushings - I haven't needed them.

I'm wondering if I should keep my spare set of CA's for this reason or just sell them. Getting the TT bushing out from the kit might be hard the first time since I'm guessing they don't use assembly grease. After that it should be cake. Not sure if it's worth keeping an extra set around or not
 

PakProtector

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AnnArbor, MI
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Mk.4 and the Cummins-es
Thanks Krash! My guru doesn't like poly either, on his recommendation
I've stuck with OEM rubber for bushings and the like, stiffer springs and
shocks for the suspension work. Stiffen the chassis with a couple of bars
and I'm done. His contention, supported by your experience, is that poly
is too harsh on the components.
I got a pair of PowerFlex rear LCA installed. No mashing them out of shape; they have a ball riding in poly. I am going to get the black poly next time; the purple are hardly too stiff. IFF there is a next time that is. They are completely quiet.
cheers,
Douglas
 

KrashDH

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Joined
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Location
Washington
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2002 Golf
I got a pair of PowerFlex rear LCA installed. No mashing them out of shape; they have a ball riding in poly. I am going to get the black poly next time; the purple are hardly too stiff. IFF there is a next time that is. They are completely quiet.
cheers,
Douglas

Are you talking about these?


https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/p...-tt-a3-s3-front-control-arm-rear-bushing-2841


Race vs street version is the colors I'm assuming



Looks to be a better solution than the standard poly product that's for sure. Also, looks like they could have engineered a way to accept grease into the internals as well, but they didn't.
 

gforce1108

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Newburgh, NY
TDI
04 Jetta GLS BEW, 03 Jetta Wagon ALH
I'm wondering if I should keep my spare set of CA's for this reason or just sell them. Getting the TT bushing out from the kit might be hard the first time since I'm guessing they don't use assembly grease. After that it should be cake. Not sure if it's worth keeping an extra set around or not
It just seems that the aftermarket stuff just isn't built the same as OEM. I would never even consider autozone junk - I know idparts stuff is good but I'd rather use OEM rebuilt (same with starters/alternators/axles, etc.).

I didn't even use the spare set when I did my wagon - new balljoints and bushings from idparts - reused the old 304k mile arms.
 

KrashDH

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Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
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2002 Golf
It just seems that the aftermarket stuff just isn't built the same as OEM. I would never even consider autozone junk - I know idparts stuff is good but I'd rather use OEM rebuilt (same with starters/alternators/axles, etc.).

I didn't even use the spare set when I did my wagon - new balljoints and bushings from idparts - reused the old 304k mile arms.

I asked IDparts about the Spidan/GKN stuff that they are selling on their site. They were/are and OEM provider for VW, so I think they'll be ok. Seems that they've been fine thus far for members.
 

jackbombay

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Joined
Mar 12, 2002
Location
Diesel knows best
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A4 Jetta
I'm worried with this new kit from ID that everything was likely pressed in and installed dry which means it will be a bear to get them out when they need replacing.
I bought my 2003 new, and I replaced the LCAs not long ago at ~240,000 miles, nothing was failing, but I was doing new springs shock and struts anyway, so wanted all new suspension. I doubt you'll have the car long enough for it to matter that the bushings may have been pressed in dry.
 

IndigoBlueWagon

TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Joined
Aug 16, 2004
Location
South of Boston
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'97 Passat, '99.5 Golf, '02 Jetta Wagon, '15 GSW
We met the folks at Sidem (branded Spidan-GKN in the US) at Automechanika in Frankfurt in 2018. They're a Belgian company that focuses on the Euro aftermarket, been around a long time. All their manufacturing is in Belgium. But they didn't have a presence in the US. We saw them again at SEMA/AAPEX that year and placed our first order shortly after the show. We were among the first, if not their first distribution/retail account in the US. We've seen a lot of steering and suspension products for European cars, and Spidan-GKN is among the best. The combination of the TT bushings and HD ball joints is hard to beat.

These control arms are on several IDParts associates cars, and they've performed and held up well. They'll go on IBW next time the control arm bushings need replacement, which may be soon.

You can probably glean from this post that we're excited about this company and their products. They know the aftermarket and care about what they make and sell. We like that.
 

KrashDH

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Location
Washington
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2002 Golf
We met the folks at Sidem (branded Spidan-GKN in the US) at Automechanika in Frankfurt in 2018. They're a Belgian company that focuses on the Euro aftermarket, been around a long time. All their manufacturing is in Belgium. But they didn't have a presence in the US. We saw them again at SEMA/AAPEX that year and placed our first order shortly after the show. We were among the first, if not their first distribution/retail account in the US. We've seen a lot of steering and suspension products for European cars, and Spidan-GKN is among the best. The combination of the TT bushings and HD ball joints is hard to beat.

These control arms are on several IDParts associates cars, and they've performed and held up well. They'll go on IBW next time the control arm bushings need replacement, which may be soon.

You can probably glean from this post that we're excited about this company and their products. They know the aftermarket and care about what they make and sell. We like that.
Much appreciate for the response Indigo, figured you'd come in at some point! Looking forward to trying them out, I def need an HD ball joint!
 

sriracha

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805
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2005 Jetta Wagon 5mt, 1982 Rabbit truck (gas)
I installed the new LCA’s with TT bushings and HD Ball Joints, yesterday. It was a bit of a wrestling match and took some effort to remove one of the old ball joints, but I eventually got it done. I did a quick test drive around the block before returning to my garage. Can’t really comment on the handling yet, but I immediately noticed the clunking was gone.
 

KrashDH

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Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
I installed the new LCA’s with TT bushings and HD Ball Joints, yesterday. It was a bit of a wrestling match and took some effort to remove one of the old ball joints, but I eventually got it done. I did a quick test drive around the block before returning to my garage. Can’t really comment on the handling yet, but I immediately noticed the clunking was gone.
Hey sriracha, I'll be doing the install on Sat, I remember wrestling each time to get the balljoints out.


Did you take everything out as a unit? Disconnect anything other than the standard bj connection and sway link connection? I'm not worried about getting the actual bj to break free as this will be my third set and I always use marine grease when I install now.



I ordered TRE's as well, but I can't remember if I did those recently or not. They don't have any play I checked that, but I may just replace for good measure.


It's flooding and land slides are happening around these parts so no biking this weekend.
 

sriracha

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805
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2005 Jetta Wagon 5mt, 1982 Rabbit truck (gas)
Hey sriracha, I'll be doing the install on Sat, I remember wrestling each time to get the balljoints out.


Did you take everything out as a unit? Disconnect anything other than the standard bj connection and sway link connection? I'm not worried about getting the actual bj to break free as this will be my third set and I always use marine grease when I install now.



I ordered TRE's as well, but I can't remember if I did those recently or not. They don't have any play I checked that, but I may just replace for good measure.


It's flooding and land slides are happening around these parts so no biking this weekend.

I removed the lower control arm and ball joint as one unit on the driver's side. I used a large shop-worthy Pedro's metal (mountain bike) tire lever to pry the ball joint out. It popped out pretty easily. One the passenger side, the ball joint was more tenacious. I disconnected the LCA from the ball joint and removed the LCA, to make room for the ball joint tool. However, I left the drive shafts in the spindles so there wasn't room for the tool above. I took the tool apart and used the fork in combination with the Pedros tire lever, stood on the lever and gave it a good push. It eventually popped out.

...I was wondering if I should be greasing things upon reassembling, like I would with my mountain bike. I did not grease and now wish that I did.

It's perfect mountain biking weather in my area. I'm sacrificing good riding to get this done so that I can take more day trips to the Flow Trail in Santa Cruz.
 

KrashDH

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Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
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2002 Golf
I removed the lower control arm and ball joint as one unit on the driver's side. I used a large shop-worthy Pedro's metal (mountain bike) tire lever to pry the ball joint out. It popped out pretty easily. One the passenger side, the ball joint was more tenacious. I disconnected the LCA from the ball joint and removed the LCA, to make room for the ball joint tool. However, I left the drive shafts in the spindles so there wasn't room for the tool above. I took the tool apart and used the fork in combination with the Pedros tire lever, stood on the lever and gave it a good push. It eventually popped out.
...I was wondering if I should be greasing things upon reassembling, like I would with my mountain bike. I did not grease and now wish that I did.
It's perfect mountain biking weather in my area. I'm sacrificing good riding to get this done so that I can take more day trips to the Flow Trail in Santa Cruz.
Everything on my car and truck that comes off, gets grease when reinstalled. It used to be anti seize, but that stuff gets gunky and hard after a few years and you basically have to chip it off. So I quit using it. I'm it's place, I use Evinrude Triple Guard Marine grease on everything metal to metal contact. Lasts years in saltwater environments and bolts come out just as easy as they went in years prior. Love the stuff.

Although if you grease your bolts, you have to knock the torque value down. Good rule of thumb is about 20% (friction coefficient goes way down).

I shouldn't have too much issue with the BJ's, I have an air hammer we a fork if needed
 

sriracha

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Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Location
805
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2005 Jetta Wagon 5mt, 1982 Rabbit truck (gas)
So far, I installed front/rear springs/dampers in addition to the Lower Control Arms with pre-installed TT bushings. I took the wagon out for a brief test drive last night. Wow! Significant improvement. It should be noted that my old LCA’s both had clapped out, cracked and collapsed bushings. The old suspension was so loose, unresponsive and put the steering wheel at a crooked position when going straight. It was ridiculous. So, I’m comparing new and upgraded to clapped and stock.
The first thing I noticed was no more clunking over bumps. Even though everything is stiffer, the car is smoother. Cornering performance is so much better. The response is crisp and accurate.
One benefit that I did not anticipate was accelerating and braking response and performance. With the old bushings, they would flex when accelerating, making the car feel like it was struggling to go. Same with braking, the old bushings would flex and the car required attention to keep it straight. Now, with the TT bushings, the car has better throttle response and more punch when I hit the throttle. Not only does it handle better, but it’s punchy and responds better to accelerating and braking.
Another unanticipated improvement is shifting! With the old bushings, smooth shifting was difficult because the LCA bushings would flex when I pressed and released the clutch, creating a hurky-jerky shift. Now, shifting is much smoother.
I am super happy with the results.
This gave me extra motivation to tackle the rear beam/bushings. During the rear springs/dampers installation, I noticed the rear bushings are cracked and collapsed. Can’t wait for Cupra R rear bushings.
 

KrashDH

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
So far, I installed front/rear springs/dampers in addition to the Lower Control Arms with pre-installed TT bushings. I took the wagon out for a brief test drive last night. Wow! Significant improvement. It should be noted that my old LCA’s both had clapped out, cracked and collapsed bushings. The old suspension was so loose, unresponsive and put the steering wheel at a crooked position when going straight. It was ridiculous. So, I’m comparing new and upgraded to clapped and stock.
The first thing I noticed was no more clunking over bumps. Even though everything is stiffer, the car is smoother. Cornering performance is so much better. The response is crisp and accurate.
One benefit that I did not anticipate was accelerating and braking response and performance. With the old bushings, they would flex when accelerating, making the car feel like it was struggling to go. Same with braking, the old bushings would flex and the car required attention to keep it straight. Now, with the TT bushings, the car has better throttle response and more punch when I hit the throttle. Not only does it handle better, but it’s punchy and responds better to accelerating and braking.
Another unanticipated improvement is shifting! With the old bushings, smooth shifting was difficult because the LCA bushings would flex when I pressed and released the clutch, creating a hurky-jerky shift. Now, shifting is much smoother.
I am super happy with the results.
This gave me extra motivation to tackle the rear beam/bushings. During the rear springs/dampers installation, I noticed the rear bushings are cracked and collapsed. Can’t wait for Cupra R rear bushings.

I've got the Cupra's in my rear beam. That was quite the project.
 
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