Ok... I just replaced my wheel bearings, but the job isn't completed yet.
Here are some things I would suggest...
I used the method Shenandoah described for pressing out the hubs from the bearings. Use a three jaw puller and the old axle nut as the pressing disc. One issue I ran into with this was that I couldn't get all three legs to grip onto the spindle so I removed one of the puller jaws, placed a socket between the puller body and the bottom of the strut to center the puller with the axle nut and just cranked it. Worked like a charm.
Before pressing out the outer race from the spindle, I chose to remove all the "guts" from the rear of the bearing and used a pressing disc that fit in the bearing but was larger than the ridge which separates the ball bearing channels in the middle of the race. I can't remember the disc number right now, but I'll look at them shortly and update my post. This worked better than using disc #13 as I encountered the same issue as Rodrigues... #13 was simply too big for the rear bearing opening in the spindle.
If you use the Harbor Freight Kit 66829, I'd suggest replacing the threaded rod and corresponding coupler. I again had the same problem as Rodrigues... the 'welded' nut on the HF threaded rod just tore off.
I bought a 3/4" coarse thread frame bolt and a coarse thread heavy duty coupler. I cut about 2 inches off the end of it. If it's still too long, you can space the pressing disc with other pressing discs. For spacers, use discs with a smaller diameter than your main disc. The heavy duty bolt and coupler set me back about $12 at a local bolt store (Budget Bolt) and is infinitely better than the supplied garbage.
As far as the hubs go, the inner races were on there so bad, even with dremeling a cut through them and chiseling, only pieces of the inner race broke off and the majority is still there. So, instead of messing with it further, I just bought new hubs from IDparts and am now waiting for them the arrive so I can finish the job.
The easiest part was pressing the new bearing in. For this, I used disc #9. It's nearly the exact diameter as the bearing and doesn't have a raised center portion. I used this because I didn't want to damage the bearing by using the flat side of #13 as MOGolf suggests. Although the race (inner and outer) surfaces seem flush to each other, I didn't want to risk it.
Also, I'm not sure if it's related or not, but my driver side axle nut was alarmingly loose, such that I could remove it with a regular 1/2" drive ratchet. I wonder if it came loose because the vibration caused by the bad wheel bearing which WAS on that side.