If you turn the crank counter clockwise it puts tension on the back of the belt and slack on the front, which is the opposite of how it operates. If you need to turn the engine ccw for some reason, do it from the cam sprocket. This will keep the slack in the belt by the tensioner where it should beThen I realized when I would lock camshaft, loosened the 3 bolts and turned crankshaft backward then forward, the tensioner needle would still be in right place but slightly different compared to if I only moved the crank twice in a correct direction. It seemed like going opposite direction, then forward direction caused slightly different tension in belt compared to only clockwise direction
You don't need VCDS to do the timing belt, unless you want to run the fuel pump (assuming you unhooked any lines). Yes, the new belt is tighter than the old and will probably stretch a little, so I think most will set the tensioner to the right (tightest) side of the adjustment window.Hi everybody, after replacing timing on the TDI you take VCDS and check in the programme how right you adjust 1-st die point. The new belt tighter vs old . And yes I’m use VW tool for lock crankshaft and camshaft when replace timing
Will, you're absolutely right. But you have to turn the engine CCW when you are adjusting the timing if your crank hole is to the right when you cam is locked. Once you do your 2 clockwise turns, then you try to fit the pins and they do not fit after you locked the crank, the procedure has you remove crank lock, move the crankshaft until the camshaft pin fits, then you have to loosen camshaft sprocket and decide where you need to move crankshaft to re-pin it. In my case, crankshaft was always off the hole to the right. Which requires crankshaft to be moved clockwise up to max camshaft window allowance, then move back clockwise until pin would enter the hole. You cannot tighten from camshaft when you loosened your 3 bolts. But moving maximum CCW and then moving back CW still created different tensioner tightness that after 2 revolutions. Hence the reason for my modified re-pinning where I purposefully tightened the crank pulley where it would barely not fit into the pin hole. And after 2 revolutions it would be a perfect fit. The normal procedure always produced same effect. After 5 attempts, I had to adjust the technique as to how I pinned when tensioner is not properly slacked and once I started to move crank CW only, then the tensioner slack was correct and pins fit. That was my goal and that was repetitive x 3 where after 3 double crank rotations, both crank and cam pins would fit perfectly, and that was a perfect job. HPFP did not fit, but was very close.If you turn the crank counter clockwise it puts tension on the back of the belt and slack on the front, which is the opposite of how it operates. If you need to turn the engine ccw for some reason, do it from the cam sprocket. This will keep the slack in the belt by the tensioner where it should be
On UDS ECU, you can't get into measuring blocks.Yes you need VCDS. I’m not first who read information about position camshaft and after make adjusting. 1st connect VCDS, go to engine. Go to Block measuring . Activate group 004 and check parameters « torsion value « they can be from minus to positive numbers. We need to make them 0. After you loose 3 bolts on the sprocket and mouve left or right. And again check camshaft position . Internet full of vidéo how make camshaft adjusting using VCDS. Good luck
IMO would do this one of these ways (of course you got your engine in time, just for discussion)Will, you're absolutely right. But you have to turn the engine CCW when you are adjusting the timing if your crank hole is to the right when you cam is locked. Once you do your 2 clockwise turns, then you try to fit the pins and they do not fit after you locked the crank, the procedure has you remove crank lock, move the crankshaft until the camshaft pin fits, then you have to loosen camshaft sprocket and decide where you need to move crankshaft to re-pin it. In my case, crankshaft was always off the hole to the right. Which requires crankshaft to be moved clockwise up to max camshaft window allowance, then move back clockwise until pin would enter the hole. You cannot tighten from camshaft when you loosened your 3 bolts. But moving maximum CCW and then moving back CW still created different tensioner tightness that after 2 revolutions. Hence the reason for my modified re-pinning where I purposefully tightened the crank pulley where it would barely not fit into the pin hole. And after 2 revolutions it would be a perfect fit. The normal procedure always produced same effect. After 5 attempts, I had to adjust the technique as to how I pinned when tensioner is not properly slacked and once I started to move crank CW only, then the tensioner slack was correct and pins fit. That was my goal and that was repetitive x 3 where after 3 double crank rotations, both crank and cam pins would fit perfectly, and that was a perfect job. HPFP did not fit, but was very close.
I've have the timing adjusted atleast 4 times in past few days drives and starts fine a dozen times then its back to the same issue.Hi their guys I'm having this same issue everytime my timing is done the car starts fine drives for a while then when you turn off the engine and try starting it just cranks eventually starts on 4th 5th 6th attempt. Showing crankshaft and camshaft codes. Seems like timing keeps moving slightly causing it to not start first attempt. Can anyone help sort this issue.
Hey so I started this thread because I had this issue. Did this happen to you after doing a timing belt job? Also you shouldn't have to worry about air in the fuel system if you didn't take off any fuel lines. If I remember correctly when this happened to me it was because my hpfp sprocket wasn't lined up. After I got that it was fine. Theres a pin hole behind the sprocket you got to line up and hold it, it's a little tricky. I would make sure you have all the proper tools to do this and restart the whole process, watch a video a few times. I had to re do the process like 10 times and it became very overwhelming and stressful. Make sure to be careful with the Allen key on the tensioner, when you tension it multiple times it can strip out pretty easy. Also you really need to have the Crank tool for this and it helps to have the cam tool. When it runs good has hard starts like this you have the timing really close but not good enough. I recommend NOT driving the car until you get it running right. Fire it up repeatedly and make sure it's starting properly each time, if it's still hard starting then don't bother trying to run the car or drive it. It could only be bad for it. Many will say it doesn't matter if that hpfp sprocket is lined up but for me it fixed the issue, but at the same time make sure you just re do the whole process, using the came pins and Crank locks. Make sure you have a professional video to refer toI've have the timing adjusted atleast 4 times in past few days drives and starts fine a dozen times then its back to the same issue.
Mine did the same thing with the timing off, it'd start and run fine, but if I turned the engine off and immediately tried to restart it could take a bunch of attempts then suddenly it'd randomly start fineIf you were doing a timing beltjob then I'd suspect there is nothing at fault other than the timing of the engine since that was the only change taking place but you did you clarify if you were doing a timing belt change? Was it running fine before doing s timing belt? If there's random codes I'd disregard them if changing the timing belt caused this, it can cause many codes but none of them are going to help much in this situation. Make sure you have the cam pins Crank pins and proper tools to get everything lined up perfect or it's not going to run right
You may not agree but this is my opinion. It sounds like initially your tensioner went bad and possibly jumped timing, either way it caused it to go out of time which resulted in the misfiring and not running correctly. You did a timing belt kit and that did not fix the issue, I think that the car is just still out of time and needs tweaked because this was the initial issue caused when your tensioner was bad so I don't think it's anything but the timing because of your situation. I don't think that you would simultaneously have an electrical issue or some other issue coincidentally at the same time your tensioner went bad, that's just my opinion. When I had timing issues I swore I had it all timed perfectly but it was my first timing belt job and I didn't have it done perfect. I would make sure your cam sprocket still lines up with the hole (after) the tensioner is tightened. So all you got to check not is put the Crank at TDC and see if your cam pin will go in and if it doesn't then the timing is offThe vehicle suddenly started misfiring and all the light on the dash was on so I stopped and took the timing cover off and realised the belt was a little loose and I could swing the top small guider by hand. I got the vehicle recovered. Upon further diagnosis found the tensioner had collapsed. Replaced with new kit and studs (the tensioner stud was tight and the thread was good). Prior to all this happening the glow plug and eml was on anyway showing temp sensor. After fitting the belt with all relevant timing tools. Started vehicle drove fine for 4 to 5 day. On the 6th day it started with the issue of not starting when turned off. After a couple of attempts it does start. Checked timing cam an hpfp pins did not line up very slightly out so timed up again with relevant Vw tools. Cranked straight away on the first few cold starts. Then drove for a while once car warms up it starts giving the issue again.
I suspect its another issue maybe electrical.
Just wondered if anyone else had this issue.