Electrical issues after inspection

[Camel413]

I just got my car back from the mechanic for its inspection to get my license sticker. In Missouri our inspections are pretty basic, check that the lights and horn works, tires are decent, suspension is ok and the windshield isnt cracked. No emissions testing.

Car was fine when I dropped it off. After picking it up when I shut it off and remove the key the dash goes completely blank. Before the miles and clock was still visible with the key out. Also every time the car is started the clock and miles reset. Another thing is the light on the dash for the open hatch is on even though the hatch is for sure closed. I have a gps and dash cam plugged into the cig lighter, neither of these will work now. I tested the volts on the lighter it is now hovering around 3 volts. I checked voltage across the battery with the car running and was getting 13.9 volts. Any ideas as to what could have happened at the shop to cause any of these issues?

 

[Steve Addy]

You check all your fuses? Does it look like someone was up in there messing around? Check to be sure your relays are all seated properly.

I have seen this before but I can't recall the circumstances....is your ignition switch in good order? You don't have a ton of keys hanging heavy on it do you?

Steve

 

[Camel413]

Fuses are all good. I haven’t checked relays. The mechanic shouldn’t have been in that area. I just replaced the ignition switch about a month ago from a no start/ no electric issue, which fixed it. It’s just strange that all was good before I dropped it off. I’m guessing it’s something simple that the mechanic did. Loosened a wire or bumped something, I’m not sure.

 

[Steve Addy]

The cluster blacking out and the rear hatch signal are both associated with fuse 21. I would check and replace that fuse first.

Have you asked the mechanic exactly what he did while he was in your car? I would want to know exactly what he did.

This is why I don't like to take my vehicles to outside help if it can be avoided.

Steve

 

[Camel413]

Steve thank you for pointing me in the right direction. I did check the fuses and they "looked" good. I checked 21 again and there was the smallest gap in it. So I replaced the fuse and all those issues went away. Then the next day I noticed that my doors wouldnt unlock via the key in the door and the fuse was blown again. I put in a fresh fuse and tried the key in the door again. I can lock all the doors and hatch with the key in the door but when I go to unlock them the fuse blows.

Also on another note, I totally agree about avoiding taking these older cars to regular mechanics as they just dont know much about them. In my case those in Missouri we have to have them inspected every 2 years by a licensed shop to do inspections so no way around that. But for regular work I have done it all myself.

 

[Steve Addy]

Steve thank you for pointing me in the right direction. I did check the fuses and they "looked" good. I checked 21 again and there was the smallest gap in it. So I replaced the fuse and all those issues went away. Then the next day I noticed that my doors wouldnt unlock via the key in the door and the fuse was blown again. I put in a fresh fuse and tried the key in the door again. I can lock all the doors and hatch with the key in the door but when I go to unlock them the fuse blows.

Also on another note, I totally agree about avoiding taking these older cars to regular mechanics as they just dont know much about them. In my case those in Missouri we have to have them inspected every 2 years by a licensed shop to do inspections so no way around that. But for regular work I have done it all myself.

I'm glad that you found a burned fuse but it still apparently didn't fix the problem.

I may be way off base but the only thing I can think of is that the door locking mechanism was damaged by an overly aggressive mechanic that wasn't used to unlocking with a key. Most today have a remote to unlock, which is very easy, so cars that have manual lock / unlock are rare now and I'm sure the mechanic thought it tedious to have to put effort into unlocking the car.

If it's not that far I would still head back to the testing facility and find the person who performed your test and ask if there was anything unusual that happened during their inspection process. And ask whether they had any trouble unlocking the car.

You know how fragile these door handles / locks are. The B3 door handles seem to be a lot more reliable than the B4 handles, it's too bad the B3 can't be fitted as replacements.

I hope you an find a permanent resolution to this.

Steve

 

[ToddA1]

Since it’s associated with the door locks, I’d unplug the vacuum pump. See what happens…

-Todd

 

[Mongler98]

fwiw, usually when these cars clusters have ghost issues like this, it stems from a bad or not adequate grounding issue. i would inspect the wiring harness anywhere it bends or may rub on anything and the connections at the tack pickup.

 

[Abacus]

You have broken wires in a door bellows. I've had the same issue before and found it when tracing the issue.

 

[Camel413]

I actually just left for Florida for about 3 weeks so wont have a chance to look at anything on the car until late August. Abacus that is a really good thought. My passenger window quit working several months ago. It was sporadic at first where the window would work some times but eventually got to where it hasnt worked for a while now. I will have to check the bellows out when I get back home. I know that the window issue can also be broken wires in the bellows.

 

[Camel413]

I finally got around to inspecting the car again. I pulled both front door bellows and I didnt see anything that looked suspect. All wires looked normal. Is there a best practice of testing each individual wire besides looking at them? Or anywhere else I should be looking for issues with this fuse blowing when locking the doors and my passenger window not working?

 

[ToddA1]

The motor could have a short.

-Todd

 

[Camel413]

Wanted to give an update. I was finally able to track down the fuse blowing issue. On the drivers side door handle the insulation on the wires was cracked and missing. This was allowing them to short out when trying to unlock all the doors with the key in the door. I was able to get them all insulated and this seems to have fixed the current issue issue.

As for the front passenger window it is still not working. It will not roll up or down. Both drivers and passenger door switches do nothing and the key in the door will roll up/down all windows except for the front passenger window. What is the best way to test the motor or where is the best place for a replacement?

 

[Steve Addy]

Wanted to give an update. I was finally able to track down the fuse blowing issue. On the drivers side door handle the insulation on the wires was cracked and missing. This was allowing them to short out when trying to unlock all the doors with the key in the door. I was able to get them all insulated and this seems to have fixed the current issue issue.

As for the front passenger window it is still not working. It will not roll up or down. Both drivers and passenger door switches do nothing and the key in the door will roll up/down all windows except for the front passenger window. What is the best way to test the motor or where is the best place for a replacement?

If the windows are going up with the key in the door lock then the problem is not in the motors.

My first stop would be in the window switches....those can get gummed up over time. I have same problem on my junker 96 tdi...you have to fuss with switch to get it to work. I need to remove the switches and clean them inside.

ToddA1 has posted up a couple times about cleaning these switches.

Steve

 

[Camel413]

The front passenger window is the issue window. It doesnt move no matter what method you try, even the key in the door lock wont get it to move.

 

[Steve Addy]

The front passenger window is the issue window. It doesnt move no matter what method you try, even the key in the door lock wont get it to move.

Try substituting a switch from one of the rear doors and see if that makes it work.

Steve

 

[Camel413]

I tried different switches with no luck. What are the odds that the motor is shot? How can this be tested? Also are the motors like the door handles where they are very specific to location that they can be installed?