Crank no start, getting fuel

[Fraz7]

Started my car and went inside for a couple minutes. Came back out and the car was no longer running.

Quick rundown of the last year. Timing belt changed probably less than 5000 miles ago then turbo vanes stuck. Decided to do all my upgrades at that time. Been running car for 1000 miles until last week.

So after checking a few things, I got fuel to injectors but no fire. No codes. Checked timing and the pump was 180 out (cam and flywheel line up and pump was on the bottom).

What could cause this?

 

[csstevej]

Has the tensioner loosened up?
Belt tight ?
You did use the lock down tools and valve cover off to verify this…right?
You haven’t loosened up the BIG nut on the IP have you? It would allow the whole sprocket to rotate but not the shaft. That would completely throw the IP timing off from the sprocket….( remote but possible ).

 

[KLXD]

Weird. Hard to believe it could jump exactly 180 degrees. You sure you don't have the cam out too, in other the cam and pump are in time and you're looking at the cam upside down. Why Steve asked if you used the tools or looked at the cam.

 

[03TDICommuter]

Rotate the crank another 360 and I bet it all lines up.

 

[Prairieview]

Ditto.

 

[Fraz7]

Okay, so I checked with the valve over off today and got pump pin in, cam lock on, and crank just barely off(can see the mark right next to the point). I thought it was 180 out because the cam and crank were lined up, but after taking valve cover they all line up. Did not know the crank and cam could line up upside down, but on to any other suggestion of what could cause it not to start. Will be hooking a VagCom up on Monday.

 

[KLXD]

So it seems it's in time as far as the belt's concerned.

You say fuel's bled to the injectors so I won't ask if you're out of fuel or have an air leak. But maybe you need more bleeding? How long did it sit before you had the original problem?

Maybe pump pulley slipped on the flange?

 

[csstevej]

Are you getting the GP light on momentarily when key first turn to the on position ?
If not replace the 109 relay , old style were black.

 

[Fraz7]

Bleeding isn't the problem. It ran for 1000 miles since I put it back together. Pump pulley seems to be alright.

Tried an amazon 109 relay even though mine was a grey one. It did not work but my old one seemed to be because it turned on my external lift pump.

I tried a new crank sensor and nothing.

Any other ideas??????

 

[csstevej]

Have you checked to see if the ASV valve is open ?

 

[Fraz7]

Have you checked to see if the ASV valve is open ?

Does not have one anymore

 

[BobnOH]

Since the TB service is so recent I would take a close look to see it's all proper. Aligned and tensioned.
The other thing to consider is fuel, air+diesel. Clogged snow screen, dirty filter, loose big air pipes.

 

[markdave]

Started my car and went inside for a couple minutes. Came back out and the car was no longer running.

Quick rundown of the last year. Timing belt changed probably less than 5000 miles ago then turbo vanes stuck. Decided to do all my upgrades at that time. Been running car for 1000 miles until last week.Speed Test

So after checking a few things, I got fuel to injectors but no fire. No codes. Checked timing and the pump was 180 out (cam and flywheel line up and pump was on the bottom).

What could cause this?

You haven’t loosened up the BIG nut on the IP have you? It would allow the whole sprocket to rotate but not the shaft. That would completely throw the IP timing off from the sprocket….( remote but possible ).

 

[Fraz7]

You haven’t loosened up the BIG nut on the IP have you? It would allow the whole sprocket to rotate but not the shaft. That would completely throw the IP timing off from the sprocket….( remote but possible ).

No have not touched it. And if that was the problem wouldn't that been instant turning on the first time? I drove it for almost 1000 miles after doing all the work to it.

 

[AndyBees]

If there's fuel at the injectors, it should start ........ but, only if Injected at the proper "time." We're assuming good compression.

So, I'm thinking the IP Sprocket has slipped a bit (only a hair can change the IP injection timing big-time). So, I'd start by loosening those three bolts on the IP Belt Cog. Using a 22 mm wrench, move the IP shaft so that the three bolts are centered in the slots of the IP Sprocket. I've never had an ALH engine to fail to start after doing a TB Job by setting those bolts in the center of the slots.

So, it died while idling................ Something happened.

Questions & Comments

Did it run out of fuel?
Is there air in the fuel system?
Fuel at the Injectors doesn't mean the system is bled of air (filter to the Injectors).
Fuel at the Injectors does mean that the Fuel Shut Off/On solenoid is functioning (and Relay 109).
When was the fuel filter changed last? (feeling for a botched change, like sucking air at the Thermo T at the top of the filter)
The entire Intake and Exhaust system can be removed and if everything else is fine, the engine will start.
The drain hole in the bottom of the Air Filter Box will allow more than enough air flow for the engine to start.

Keep us posted...

 

[Fraz7]

So I found out the problem. Could not get my VCDS to connect to the engine but would other things like the airbag system. Thought that must be an ECU problem. Sent it back in to Malone Tuning/Tunezilla and they sent it back saying it connected to their VCDS just fine. Plugged it back in and fired right up and works just fine now. So they obviously fixed whatever was wrong and just said it was a ok. But she runs good now (except I broke a drive shaft).

 

[KLXD]

Don't you hate when a problem "resolves" itself?

Glad it's running.

 

[P2B]

So I found out the problem. Could not get my VCDS to connect to the engine but would other things like the airbag system. Thought that must be an ECU problem. Sent it back in to Malone Tuning/Tunezilla and they sent it back saying it connected to their VCDS just fine. Plugged it back in and fired right up and works just fine now. So they obviously fixed whatever was wrong and just said it was a ok. But she runs good now (except I broke a drive shaft).

I wonder if simply reseating the ECU electrical connectors would have had the same effect - they can be a bit tricky.

 

[Fraz7]

I wonder if simply reseating the ECU electrical connectors would have had the same effect - they can be a bit tricky.

Possibly, I did try unplugging the ECU once and it did not work.

 

[Fraz7]

Update on this thread. It happened again with the exact same problem. After trying to get Malone to understand it was not my car that was having issues they finally paid to have the ECU sent again and said they couldn't connect this time and cleaned some flux and reburnt chips. Now it works again and I hope for good this time.