Chirp Free and Happy

[cfunderburg]

I can't loosen the 4 dampner bolts because the dampner keeps spinning! I've tried with the belt back on and everything just spins. How do I lock the dampner in place so that I can get the bolts out?

 

[redmondjp]

I can't loosen the 4 dampner bolts because the dampner keeps spinning! I've tried with the belt back on and everything just spins. How do I lock the dampner in place so that I can get the bolts out?

Use a large socket, extension, and a breaker bar on the crank bolt to keep the crank from turning while you loosen the damper bolts. You will be applying torque to the crank in the clockwise direction while turning the damper bolt in the opposite direction. Also, if you don't already have the RH front wheel off, that helps get direct access to the damper.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

Use a large socket, extension, and a breaker bar on the crank bolt to keep the crank from turning while you loosen the damper bolts. You will be applying torque to the crank in the clockwise direction while turning the damper bolt in the opposite direction. Also, if you don't already have the RH front wheel off, that helps get direct access to the damper.

Here are my notes regarding this: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/a3b4/passatchrip.htm

I realize that the torque spec on the crankshaft bolt is very high but I prefer not to use it for counterholding. Try putting the car in gear and having a helper step on the brakes. Even still, I've managed to turn the crank quite a bit because the allen bolts were just too suck [intentional typo].

I've also stripped plenty of those bolts even when using a short allen bit, you may need an EZ-out from sears if they get stripped, works like a charm.

 

[mittzlepick]

gates belts suck

 

[MTDiezel]

I replacing the harmonic balancer last week, and so far so good (knock on wood), no more chirps even when it's cold outside.

I had trouble with the 4 bolts, I tried to remove them with a longer 6mm metric allen wrench but it kept bending, and the engine kept turning....after buying a nice 6mm hex head socket (for $5.49- worth the price) and soaking the bolts with PB blaster they eventutally came out. I didn't have to secure the crank bolt at all, the engine moved on me as well, but after turning a few times it was firm enough to be able to loosen the bolts.

The OEM bolts stripped on me (they are an 8.8 hardness I think), but i was able to find some at the local Fastenal store (12.9 hardness I believe) which worked out well- if I remember correctly they are M8-1.25x 45...They weren't threaded all the way to the head of the bolt like the originals, so I kept looking for the exact match-but wasn't able to find it. However, the pulley and the balancer don't need threads in the area where the bolt passes through them so they work great. In fact I think I could have found the same bolts at the local hardware store.

 

[validius]

Diesel engines are extremely pulsey motors, especially at idle, it is no surprise that an updated harmonic balancer would fix this problem.

 

[GeWilli]

luggy mentioned this was my chirping, now having read this - damn I'm gonna just have to go and order one...

they aren't $60 anymore...

 

[RIP TDI]

they aren't $60 anymore...

Yeah, they've gone through the roof...all the way up to $65.49!

 

[GeWilli]

well TDIparts doesn't have em that cheap ($78) and I'd rather not pay (and wait) to ship it all the way from AZ... impex has em at over $100 or something...

 

[Traildog]

I didn't see where anyone mentioned this, but if you strip the head on the allen bolts, just drill the head off the bolt. The remaining piece usually unthreads by hand. Ditto the intake manifold bolts, but you have to slide the IM back from the head and reach between with pliers to unscrew it. I have a 90* drill for just this purpose.