TDIdylan
Well-known member
Not the smoke test and I dont have a way to apply pressure to the n75Did you do these?
Not the smoke test and I dont have a way to apply pressure to the n75Did you do these?
If you hook directly from the vacuum pump to the turbo actuator, that would be similar. If it is reaching full boost sometimes, it probably doesn't have a leak, or much of one. Have you checked the turbo shaft for play? I understand it's not very old, but as we say here at the shop, new is an acronym forNot the smoke test and I dont have a way to apply pressure to the n75
The actuator moves freely. agree on the lag. It holds and builds pressure. I have done most of your check list no smoke test and no way to apply pressure to n75.Unless it's leaking, I don't think that would cause your problem. You'd maybe have a little bit more lag, but it wouldn't be randomly working and randomly not. It sounds more like sticking vanes or worn bearings. Have you checked the turbo for shaft play?
I didn't notice there was another page thought it didn't post. So all this known think a tune would cure this? Make more pressure negative deviation shouldn't be a problem.If you hook directly from the vacuum pump to the turbo actuator, that would be similar. If it is reaching full boost sometimes, it probably doesn't have a leak, or much of one. Have you checked the turbo shaft for play? I understand it's not very old, but as we say here at the shop, new is an acronym for
Never Ever Worked.
I've seen even new parts be failed from the box, and a co-worker had a turbo built for his Volvo 850 (custom built turbo) and the new turbo failed in only a couple of weeks. It had so much shaft play it ate into the turbine housing. Now, that car was far from stock, but hopefully you get the idea.
I don't think a tune is what you need. My thought is most likely it's an issue with your turbo. One other possibility though. Is your egr still intact? A stuck egr valve could cause issues, but that still would not explain that it sometimes works and other times doesn't.I didn't notice there was another page thought it didn't post. So all this known think a tune would cure this? Make more pressure negative deviation shouldn't be a problem.
Egr and asv delete. Had the intake off to install headers and turbo set up all clean and tight only vacuum line on now is brake of course and straight to the n75. Have the cold air intake cone filter new and line from the pipe to n75. the vacuum pump was leaking oil tightened it up stopped and built more vacuum. Might take it off clean it and or replace gaskets. Think the turbo turns off after x amount of time the ECU finds negative deviation?I don't think a tune is what you need. My thought is most likely it's an issue with your turbo. One other possibility though. Is your egr still intact? A stuck egr valve could cause issues, but that still would not explain that it sometimes works and other times doesn't.
As cable jockey said. I think your problem is with the turbo. There's another acronym for those types of parts Chinese Replacement Auto Parts. I know that the price seems a lot better, but all the evidence is pointing towards the turbo.Egr and asv delete. Had the intake off to install headers and turbo set up all clean and tight only vacuum line on now is brake of course and straight to the n75. Have the cold air intake cone filter new and line from the pipe to n75. the vacuum pump was leaking oil tightened it up stopped and built more vacuum. Might take it off clean it and or replace gaskets. Think the turbo turns off after x amount of time the ECU finds negative deviation?
And Cable jockey that be the worst.... I wanted to get the vnt17 when I first got the turbo that's what I thought it was... unfortunate situationAs cable jockey said. I think your problem is with the turbo. There's another acronym for those types of parts Chinese Replacement Auto Parts. I know that the price seems a lot better, but all the evidence is pointing towards the turbo.
I
I agree that it definitely is not a fun situation...And Cable jockey that be the worst....
So, asking the question if a cheap map would cause that probably indicates that you have a cheap map sensor?Okay so new turbo vnt15 Garrett 2.25in downpipe cat delete vacuum pump resealed new maf sensor new map sensor new vacuum lines new n75 pd150 intake manifold and turbo inlet race pipe egr delete oil catch can set up 3/4in lines. Problem is NOW lol P0106 map sensor. Shouldn't be any leaks didnt see a short in the wire as I just replaced map and windshield washer reservoir map wire runs near there all looked covered and ok. Any thoughts? Cheap map cuase this? @CableJockey @300D @TDIdylan @Mozambiquer thanks in advance
Its building boost normal yet it read stuck at 875hgs asking for 1000 at idle and actual never changes stays at 875hgs. It's not a Bosch was going to order oneSo, asking the question if a cheap map would cause that probably indicates that you have a cheap map sensor?
Here's the code information on Ross tech. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16490/P0106/000262 I'd start off with vag-com for performing testing though.
Possibly... Defective sensor, wrong sensor, broken wire, or poor connection are possible causes.Cheap map cuase this?
No. actually it doesn't snap in the connector it's just there. Ordering Bosch map and boost guage pod mondayPossibly... Defective sensor, wrong sensor, broken wire, or poor connection are possible causes.
Did your new MAP come from a reliable source?
Edit: Does the code still occur with the original MAP?
Ok 875 is default reading, which means that it's not reading at all. I had a car which I got for cheap because it had a broken wire in the map sensor circuit and didn't show boost. There's a specific wiring test for that, but I'd for sure make sure to have a Bosch sensor, not a knockoff.Its building boost normal yet it read stuck at 875hgs asking for 1000 at idle and actual never changes stays at 875hgs. It's not a Bosch was going to order one
Bought the car needing everything but an engine and transmission. Rereading I said I put in a new garret turbo and rebuilt the vacuum pump fmic pd150 intake system race pipe. people run alh with the cone and it's fine calm down eh engine works great and builds boost like a champ( choo) the map I bought to get by for a bit trashed way early is all. Be back a week or so with Bosch map and boost guage with results just like looking at possibilities. CheersAftermarket pos cheap turbo, cold air intake, cleaned head and not intake runners, egr delete, no tune, come filter
Dude. You get what you pay for. Pay up for some quality parts and go back to stock on the intake.
Your no where near its limits.
22inches of HG minimum. Looks like your car isnt in good health and I wonder why?
So far (unless i missed it) you need to just put a quality turbo in there and stop trying to make this ticking time bomb work.
Its possible you have a valve that is no longer seating all the way from the crud in the intake runners now free to total the engine.
I have yet to see anybody with a cone filter on an ALH that it didn't have problems, unless it is tuned with a maf delete.Bought the car needing everything but an engine and transmission. Rereading I said I put in a new garret turbo and rebuilt the vacuum pump fmic pd150 intake system race pipe. people run alh with the cone and it's fine calm down eh engine works great and builds boost like a champ( choo) the map I bought to get by for a bit trashed way early is all. Be back a week or so with Bosch map and boost guage with results just like looking at possibilities. Cheers
What of the AFE cold air intake sold by kerma tdi says to fit the alh and improve hp torque and air flowI have yet to see anybody with a cone filter on an ALH that it didn't have problems, unless it is tuned with a maf delete.
probably BS. its been dyno proven that air filters usually rob power and do jack diddly squat for turbo applications. i'm sure this is an upgrade for someone with a maf delete and a near or past 300hp build.What of the AFE cold air intake sold by kerma tdi says to fit the alh and improve hp torque and air flow
Kerma has also been known to say things that were not correct.What of the AFE cold air intake sold by kerma tdi says to fit the alh and improve hp torque and air flow
My asv connector was cut by the previous owner. And fuse 34 keeps blowing the wires are just twisted together and exposed. Trouble code p0245. Inspected maf map egr n75 wiring all seemed ok. Any thoughts on what to do? Might buy asv connector and rewire and leave the connector hanging with the egrKerma has also been known to say things that were not correct.
sounds like you need to fine tooth comb fix your bar before you start worrying about power issues.My asv connector was cut by the previous owner. And fuse 34 keeps blowing the wires are just twisted together and exposed. Trouble code p0245. Inspected maf map egr n75 wiring all seemed ok. Any thoughts on what to do? Might buy asv connector and rewire and leave the connector hanging with the egr
I put a new Bosch map sensor today and that code happened. Along with n75 and interchangeable flapper motor asv and glow plug[ been occurring new harness on the way] changed fuse 34 [blown] and all codes went away accept the map pressure out of range and the glow plug. Any thoughtssounds like you need to fine tooth comb fix your bar before you start worrying about power issues.