BEW valve cover gasket (Victor Reinz)

[black_slug]

I've read that these are reuseable, but my valve cover is leaking, albeit a tiny bit, and I'd like to address it while I address tandem pump and coolant leaks since it's such an easy job on this car.

Should I replace it?

Anyone have any longterm experience with a Victor Reinz VCG? I used their vcg once on an audi years ago but sold the car shortly thereafter.

Thanks y'all

 

[oilhammer]

I'd replace the whole valve cover.

 

[black_slug]

Oh boy its over $200. Not worth it considering other stuff the car needs.

Why the whole cover?

 

[Nero Morg]

Because the gasket is actually integrated into the valve cover. You can't buy just the gasket. Only sure fire way to fix it is to replace. ALH is the same way.

 

[black_slug]

Because the gasket is actually integrated into the valve cover. You can't buy just the gasket. Only sure fire way to fix it is to replace. ALH is the same way.

From what I've read and seen in various diy videos, it is replaceable and the part is easily acquired.

Strange...all I was looking for is whether or not i should go oem or victor reinz or some other brand.

I find this odd as I've read Oilhammer testify to successfully replacing the gaskets in other threads.

What am I missing?

 

[Nero Morg]

Well, nows the time to backpeddle a little. I've only pulled 2 BEW valve covers before, and both of them they didn't look replaceable, and I've always been under the impression they're integrated.

Im sure someone will chime in if I'm wrong.

 

[KrashDH]

Aftermarket valve covers have a replaceable gasket, as I have an aftermarket cover on my car. OEM are integrated into the valve cover.
The cover is nice, but the replaceable gaskets are hit and miss. Mine developed a leak after 3 months. A little bit of RTV (and I mean a LIGHT bead) on the bottom of the gasket, let it skin up, finger tight the cover bolts, let it sit again, then torque it down, and it has solved the leaks. The only issue is the next TB job or when the cover needs to come off, I'll be scraping the head surface...BUT it's my hope that because of my process (applying it to the gasket and letting it skin up on there) that the majority comes off with the gasket. Then I'll just toss it and get a new gasket.

Or buy a new OEM that lasts another 15 years.

 

[black_slug]

Aftermarket valve covers have a replaceable gasket, as I have an aftermarket cover on my car. OEM are integrated into the valve cover.
The cover is nice, but the replaceable gaskets are hit and miss. Mine developed a leak after 3 months. A little bit of RTV (and I mean a LIGHT bead) on the bottom of the gasket, let it skin up, finger tight the cover bolts, let it sit again, then torque it down, and it has solved the leaks. The only issue is the next TB job or when the cover needs to come off, I'll be scraping the head surface...BUT it's my hope that because of my process (applying it to the gasket and letting it skin up on there) that the majority comes off with the gasket. Then I'll just toss it and get a new gasket.

Or buy a new OEM that lasts another 15 years.

Hmmm. How does that explain me being able to by on OEM vcg? That sounds like a painful process, and something I'll likely mess up. If I truly have to dump 200+ I'll just leave it. It barely leaks. I never have to add oil between changes nor notice any drop in fluid level. This was just something I thought I'd do while I'm doing other stuff under the hood.

Unless anyone else has something to add, I'm just gonna leave it for now I guess...thanks for all the input!

 

[KrashDH]

Hmmm. How does that explain me being able to by on OEM vcg? That sounds like a painful process, and something I'll likely mess up. If I truly have to dump 200+ I'll just leave it. It barely leaks. I never have to add oil between changes nor notice any drop in fluid level. This was just something I thought I'd do while I'm doing other stuff under the hood.

Unless anyone else has something to add, I'm just gonna leave it for now I guess...thanks for all the input!

I guess I was mentioning for an ALH not a BEW I should have clarified.
Why don't you pull the valve cover and use a pick, see if you can remove it? Won't hurt anything. There have been some people on here that have magically "restored" the rubber gasket by soaking it in something. I recall reading the threads but if you're already leaking a bit, it might be worth a shot to try and get your rubber to "bounce" back if you can do a search and find the method on here.

 

[black_slug]

I guess I was mentioning for an ALH not a BEW I should have clarified.
Why don't you pull the valve cover and use a pick, see if you can remove it? Won't hurt anything. There have been some people on here that have magically "restored" the rubber gasket by soaking it in something. I recall reading the threads but if you're already leaking a bit, it might be worth a shot to try and get your rubber to "bounce" back if you can do a search and find the method on here.

The leak is so minimal. Like I said, I don't see any appreciable drop in oil level between changes. I don't HAVE to do it, I just figured I'd do it for piece of mind sake.

 

[black_slug]

I'd rather dump 200 on new motor mounts than the vcg right now. Those are more questionable than the vcg atm.

 

[black_slug]

I'd rather dump 200 on new motor mounts than the vcg right now. Those are more questionable than the vcg atm.

Lol really thought this thread would be about whether or not it's worth saving a few on aftermarket. I generally err on OEM when we're in this dollar range but it's a good thing I asked...

 

[BobnOH]

You might get home by simply re-installing. Clean surfaces, a drop of silicone at the 90 degree corners, careful torque on good fasteners.
Aftermarket could work, but you would need to get a good clean, flat surface on the cover as well.
When you service this, it may be worth it to check the top of the head for dead level.

 

[black_slug]

I think I might give this a go here. Can you tell me where exactly you're dropping the silicone? Between the metal surfaces outside the gasket at the corners or on the gasket itself? I've read some people suggest just cleaning it thoroughly then retorquing it down properly. Concerned I'll cause a worse leak than I have now.

Checking the head for dead level, do you mean making sure there isn't any warping of the head surface?

You might get home by simply re-installing. Clean surfaces, a drop of silicone at the 90 degree corners, careful torque on good fasteners.
Aftermarket could work, but you would need to get a good clean, flat surface on the cover as well.
When you service this, it may be worth it to check the top of the head for dead level.

 

[BobnOH]

Believe there are 2 90 degree corners on the head surface, just a small amount is peachy. And yes, the head surface should be dead level.