FordGuy100
Veteran Member
Brilliant idea. I have a spare ISSPRO volt gauge laying around, will hook it up temporarily to see volt readings, especially when cranking, and glowing. Sound like a decent idea?
BEW starting
- Thread starter FordGuy100
- Start date
I would like to add a note:
I have been working on my wife's 05 NB 1.9L BEW. Two codes have come up:
19463 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
P3007 - 000 - No Signal - Intermittent
16502 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62)
P0118 - 000 - Signal too High - Intermittent
The car would start hard with temps around freezing and below. The lower the temps, the harder the starting, followed by a big cloud of white/grey smoke. I replaced the temp sensor, and that did not change anything in the starting behavior. The wire mod & reflash was performed a few years back. I am currently waiting to get the camshaft position sensor. I will report back if the replacement of the CPS does fix the hard starting issue (I think it will). The CEL was not on, and a regular code reader (AutoXray5000) did not find the CPS code, I had to use VCDS.
Hope this helps.
I have been working on my wife's 05 NB 1.9L BEW. Two codes have come up:
19463 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
P3007 - 000 - No Signal - Intermittent
16502 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62)
P0118 - 000 - Signal too High - Intermittent
The car would start hard with temps around freezing and below. The lower the temps, the harder the starting, followed by a big cloud of white/grey smoke. I replaced the temp sensor, and that did not change anything in the starting behavior. The wire mod & reflash was performed a few years back. I am currently waiting to get the camshaft position sensor. I will report back if the replacement of the CPS does fix the hard starting issue (I think it will). The CEL was not on, and a regular code reader (AutoXray5000) did not find the CPS code, I had to use VCDS.
Hope this helps.
PounDDer
Veteran Member
The solder never seems to hold either. I have a wire off the turbo sensor I have fixed every summer as it corrodes in the winter.
PDJetta
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2003
- Location
- Northern Virginia
- TDI
- '04 Jetta GLS TDI Pumpe Duce Platinum Grey w/ Leather
I still used solder and heat shrink tubing. In 35 years of working on my cars, I have never had an issue with this. I have never had a solder wiring connection fail, and I keep cars for years.
The TSB hard start wiring connections are inside a multi-wire harness and secured in the bundle and taped up so the individual connection will not flex and thus can't break at the solder/wire interface. If anything moves, the whole harness could vibrate.
I can see an issue if one were to solder a loose wire onto a female spade terminal and then plug the wire into a temperature sensor, say on a coolant flange. If the wire is not secure, it will vibrate at some resonate frequency of the engine RPM and the wire will bend back and forth right where the solder that has wicked up the wire has stopped. The soldered part is solid and the unsoldered part of the wire can flex and it could break at this interface.
To combat the above, the wire must be secured so it will not flex and the heat shrink tube can help prevent flexing.
What I do is strip a little more than a quarter inch off of each wire, slip an inch or so long appropriately sized heat shrink tube on one of the wires, hold the wires together and twist the bare ends together and lay the twist parallel and up against the wire. I then heat the bare twist to the proper temperature with a soldering iron and apply just enough 50/50 rosin core solder to fill the twist. Then I let cool and slide the heat shrink up over the joint and shrink it down. Sometimes I'll then add a layer of electrical tape as an additional barrier.
When I first started working on cars, I used the common crimp connecters we see all over the place and I have had poor connections at the crimp and sometimes even wires pulling out of the crimp. I'll still use crimp connectors, but I will apply solder to the crimp to prevent poor connections.
--Nate
The TSB hard start wiring connections are inside a multi-wire harness and secured in the bundle and taped up so the individual connection will not flex and thus can't break at the solder/wire interface. If anything moves, the whole harness could vibrate.
I can see an issue if one were to solder a loose wire onto a female spade terminal and then plug the wire into a temperature sensor, say on a coolant flange. If the wire is not secure, it will vibrate at some resonate frequency of the engine RPM and the wire will bend back and forth right where the solder that has wicked up the wire has stopped. The soldered part is solid and the unsoldered part of the wire can flex and it could break at this interface.
To combat the above, the wire must be secured so it will not flex and the heat shrink tube can help prevent flexing.
What I do is strip a little more than a quarter inch off of each wire, slip an inch or so long appropriately sized heat shrink tube on one of the wires, hold the wires together and twist the bare ends together and lay the twist parallel and up against the wire. I then heat the bare twist to the proper temperature with a soldering iron and apply just enough 50/50 rosin core solder to fill the twist. Then I let cool and slide the heat shrink up over the joint and shrink it down. Sometimes I'll then add a layer of electrical tape as an additional barrier.
When I first started working on cars, I used the common crimp connecters we see all over the place and I have had poor connections at the crimp and sometimes even wires pulling out of the crimp. I'll still use crimp connectors, but I will apply solder to the crimp to prevent poor connections.
--Nate
Last edited:
turbocharged798
Veteran Member
If you have poor connections with crimp connectors, you are not crimping them correctly. ALL factory VW connectors are crimp connectors. You will not find soldered wires anywhere in the harness.
oilhammer
Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Ditto. Same for most manufacturers. Solder is limited to use INSIDE components, not in any connectors.
The heat shrink crimp connectors, when used with the proper crimping tool, make a far better connection... seems many people cannot grasp what the proper crimping tool actually is, though.
Import Service magazine had a nice write up on this subject years ago.