Another TDI ALH no start

[welder01]

Hey guys, new to the TDI Club and new to working on diesel engines. I bought a 2002 Jetta TDI ALH that had a broken timing belt. Cylinder head surprisingly was still good, so I had the head rebuilt, new valves due to finding a few bent ones, guides, seals, lifters, camshaft. Pistons and cylinder walls looked good. Put it back together with a new timing kit (all timing marks were in line and checked 3 times to make sure) and water pump. Bled the fuel system and everything looked good. Checked the anti-shutter valve, fuel shut off solenoid, replaced all the ground cables, new starter (Bosch), new battery, crank sensor, Motor is turning over at about 250 rpms, and it will not start. Glow plug light is working as it should be so relay 109 isn't the problem. I see a small amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust pipe when it is turning over. I scanned the codes, and it is bringing up the coolant temp sensor which is not causing the no start issue. I pulled out the interior when I bought it because it had a water leak, so I thought maybe it was not starting because the seats were not hooked up and got to thinking the airbags was not detected and could possibly prevent the car from starting so I hooked them back up but still no start. I checked all the wires I could think of but did not find any problems. Only thing I have not checked is the compression but have a kit ordered since its metric. I cannot imagine that the problem is anything major and very well could be something simple that I am overlooking. Spoke to the previous owner who said it was running great with no problems until the timing belt broke. At this point I am kind lost of what it could possibly be and thought I would reach out for some ideas.

 

[ghohouston]

If you're certain the fuel system is primed and bled, I'd check timing. Pump timing being off can easily cause a no start, and explain the white smoke while cranking.

 

[csstevej]

What exactly do you mean “ all timing marks are inline “?
Did you pin the IP?
Did you pull the vacuum pump off and use the cam lock tool?
Did you set the crank shaft to top dead center via the hole on the gear box?
Did you loosen the cam sprocket along with the IP sprocket?

If you did anything but the above your timing is off. If above done correctly then you have air in the system and need to bleed further.

 

[welder01]

Fuel system is primed and no air in the system with the exception of about a one inch bubble in the clear fuel line which I understand is normal. The crank was set at TDC, cam lock tool in place and pinned the IP. I haven't had much time to work on it for the past few weeks but I'm going to do the timing again. I reset the crank and the cam was in line and the cam lock was reinstalled with no issue. One thing I noticed is the IP was close to being lined up and was just out enough where the pin would not go in even though the hole was visible. So leaning towards the timing being out. Another questing I have, is it possible to have the IP out 180 or is it timed right as long as the pin fits in?

 

[csstevej]

It’s timed right, cannot be 180 out.
Plus the 1” bubble is a little too much air.

 

[jakej78b]

I've seen them with 1" air I'm the clear line and the majority of them run just fine. Did you vacuum out the injection pump? Make sure your cam isn't 180 out... first 2 lobes should be pointing upward in a v shape at TDC.

 

[AndyBees]

I see a small amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust pipe when it is turning over. I scanned the codes, and it is bringing up the coolant temp sensor which is not causing the no start issue.

I was about to comment on this Thread a few days ago but chose to just observe...

Your IP is not in Time .... White Smoke means it is getting fuel. You say the ASV is working properly, thus getting air is not an issue which if not can cause an unbelievable amount of white smoke.

By now, the fuel system is likely purged of air.

So, I suggest that you set the engine at TDC per the flywheel mark at the Bell Housing. Then, loosen the three bolts on the IP Cog. Then, using a 22mm wrench, move the IP shaft so that the three bolts are at dead center in the slots on the IP Cog, tighten the bolts down hand tight or just a smidge more. Then, check to make sure the engine stayed on TDC at the flywheel. Then, your Engine will start. Once it is up to temp, you can tweak the timing where you want it using VCDS for observation. Then, tighten the three bolts per specs.

Keep in mind, there is a slight possibility that the Cam shaft is not "timed" for TDC. However, re-setting the IP will not affect the Cam timing. If it was out of time initially and you did the two turns to confirm all is well, it should be fine. There is leeway for a little retard or advance in the Cam without piston contact..... either way is fine as it will not affect starting of the engine.

Generally, a bad Coolant Temp Sensor will default to something like minus 400 F. Thus, it will cause the ECU to instruct the IP to over-fuel. So, you will need to replace that bad Coolant Temp Sensor.

 

[welder01]

I was about to comment on this Thread a few days ago but chose to just observe...

Your IP is not in Time .... White Smoke means it is getting fuel. You say the ASV is working properly, thus getting air is not an issue which if not can cause an unbelievable amount of white smoke.

By now, the fuel system is likely purged of air.

So, I suggest that you set the engine at TDC per the flywheel mark at the Bell Housing. Then, loosen the three bolts on the IP Cog. Then, using a 22mm wrench, move the IP shaft so that the three bolts are at dead center in the slots on the IP Cog, tighten the bolts down hand tight or just a smidge more. Then, check to make sure the engine stayed on TDC at the flywheel. Then, your Engine will start. Once it is up to temp, you can tweak the timing where you want it using VCDS for observation. Then, tighten the three bolts per specs.

Keep in mind, there is a slight possibility that the Cam shaft is not "timed" for TDC. However, re-setting the IP will not affect the Cam timing. If it was out of time initially and you did the two turns to confirm all is well, it should be fine. There is leeway for a little retard or advance in the Cam without piston contact..... either way is fine as it will not affect starting of the engine.

Generally, a bad Coolant Temp Sensor will default to something like minus 400 F. Thus, it will cause the ECU to instruct the IP to over-fuel. So, you will need to replace that bad Coolant Temp Sensor.

Well I finally had time to work on it. I ordered a compression gauge and determined that I had low compression in all cylinders. Removed the head and took it back to the shop. They confirmed that the guy who worked on it never seated the valves right. They fixed the issue and I got it back together and it started right up . What really sucked is all the time I put into it figuring the shop did the job right just to find out they didn't. Lesson learned

 

[jokila]

What a waste of time. I hope they didn't screw anything else up through neglect. eg: valves. They don't necessarily bend when smacked by the piston. They can take the hit and be weakened. I hope all of the ones that made any contact were completely replaced and not the obvious damaged ones.

It's not unheard of to have a valve weakened yet look fine and then break at the neck, and drop oh somewhere, in the near future rendering all of your work into a pile of rubbish.

 

[jakej78b]

Makes you seriously wonder whether the rest of the work they did on the head was quality work... I'd be weary running that head.

 

[AndyBees]

I had similar results from a very reputable machine shop in 2001 on a pair of heads for my ol' 83 Vanagon. When I got home, upon inspection, I could actually see light under several valves, both intake and exhaust. Yes, I should have done the inspection at the shop. Anyway, I took them to a friend with a small shop and all the necessary tools and knowledge to do a good job ..... problem was solved!