ALH Lift Pump

[delvey]

Hi, having some issues with my car starting. My 1.9TDI turns over but won't start. I had a load of fault codes (intermittent) and it feels like it is trying to start. I have noticed on my other Mk4 golf (130bhp) you can hear the pump kick in when the ignition is first turned on. Should I experience the same with the ALH? If not, how do I test? Voltmeter across the connector?
Also, when using VCDS and trying to run 035 under the engine, I get an error. Does this indicate it's buggered?

 

[jettawreck]

An unmodified ALH engined TDI has no electric lift pump, so no, you won't hear the pressure build up humm unless someone added one.

 

[delvey]

An unmodified ALH engined TDI has no electric lift pump, so no, you won't hear the pressure build up humm unless someone added one.

Thanks. At least it rules that out. Is this correct as well? I've seen elsewhere within VCDS it should be 10° or there abouts

 

[jettawreck]

Click on the "graph" button. It will show a range you should be in and the current operating value.

 

[delvey]

Click on the "graph" button. It will show a range you should be in and the current operating value.

Even without the engine starting?

 

[ghohouston]

Good lord, you need to fix those codes you have showing up there on vcds. What led up to all of them? Odds are those codes are the reason your engine won't start.

 

[Vince Waldon]

Engine needs to be running for those numbers to have any useful meaning.

 

[delvey]

Good lord, you need to fix those codes you have showing up there on vcds. What led up to all of them? Odds are those codes are the reason your engine won't start.

Not sure. The car had an auxiliary belt snap and then the starter jammed. Both fixed but it never fired up again. I have cleared the fault codes and none have them are coming back and all were intermittent.

 

[mittzlepick]

Imobilizer in your code list

 

[Vince Waldon]

Also, worth seeing if you get an engine speed (G28) reading *while* cranking, since there's a speed sensor code at the tranny.

 

[jettawreck]

Even without the engine starting?

If the engine isn't running there is no injection timing happening at all hence the "0" timing value.

 

[delvey]

Also, worth seeing if you get an engine speed (G28) reading *while* cranking, since there's a speed sensor code at the tranny.

Thanks, getting a reading of 200+ which seems to be normal.
Going to strip all the diesel out and refill with fresh stuff as well

 

[BobnOH]

Lets begin again.
Your serpentine belt broke, then the starter jammed. Both repaired.
Sometimes when those belts go, they break the lower portion of the timing belt cover. Also, inspect the cam belt, pulleys etc. Check that nothing else got disconnected during that service.
Car turns over (engine rotates, but won't start.
Trying cracking all 4 injector nuts, like a qurter turn. Put come rags down, crank. You should get heavy spray. If not crank a few more times, it may bleed itself. If not bleed pump by connecting a tube to the outlet tube, suck or pump on it until you get steady fuel. Repeat cracked nut bleed.
If the pump won't purge, you may have a restriction in the filer, air leak or even some debris in the tank (easy to get to)
Immobilizer code
May be left over from a previous event. Normally the immo allows the car to start, then shuts it off accompanied by a light on the cluster.

 

[delvey]

Lets begin again.
Your serpentine belt broke, then the starter jammed. Both repaired.
Sometimes when those belts go, they break the lower portion of the timing belt cover. Also, inspect the cam belt, pulleys etc. Check that nothing else got disconnected during that service.
Car turns over (engine rotates, but won't start.
Trying cracking all 4 injector nuts, like a qurter turn. Put come rags down, crank. You should get heavy spray. If not crank a few more times, it may bleed itself. If not bleed pump by connecting a tube to the outlet tube, suck or pump on it until you get steady fuel. Repeat cracked nut bleed.
If the pump won't purge, you may have a restriction in the filer, air leak or even some debris in the tank (easy to get to)
Immobilizer code
May be left over from a previous event. Normally the immo allows the car to start, then shuts it off accompanied by a light on the cluster.

Thanks. Will check the lower pulleys.
I've tried opening the injectors and got a nice spray in the face. Will give bleeding the pump a try anyway. I thought the same with the immobilizer but thanks.

 

[BobnOH]

If injectors are spraying, move on, your pump is pumping. It don't take much to start a diesel, compression, fuel (diesel+air).
Likely something silly like a wire off the N75, rag left in the intake pipe (wild guesses), but do be sure the cam belt is good, no missing teeth or the like.

 

[delvey]

If injectors are spraying, move on, your pump is pumping. It don't take much to start a diesel, compression, fuel (diesel+air).
Likely something silly like a wire off the N75, rag left in the intake pipe (wild guesses), but do be sure the cam belt is good, no missing teeth or the like.

Not heard of the N75 so will take a look. Cambelt looks look as far as I can see

 

[shoebear]

If I recall correctly and if the ALH engine is similar to the AHU, the accessory belt drive pulley is bolted to the timing belt sprocket, which is bolted to the crankshaft with a single 19mm torque to yield bolt. The timing belt sprocket has a "D" shaped recess into which the crankshaft fits - the crankshaft has a flat on one side so it fits. The crank bolt has been known to loosen and the timing belt sprocket can get damaged, leading to altered physical timing.

So I'm guessing that the shock on the timing belt spun the timing belt sprocket. The reason your car won't start is that physical timing is off.

Sprocket part is 038105263E. Search for images and look at the back side to see what I mean.

 

[delvey]

If I recall correctly and if the ALH engine is similar to the AHU, the accessory belt drive pulley is bolted to the timing belt sprocket, which is bolted to the crankshaft with a single 19mm torque to yield bolt. The timing belt sprocket has a "D" shaped recess into which the crankshaft fits - the crankshaft has a flat on one side so it fits. The crank bolt has been known to loosen and the timing belt sprocket can get damaged, leading to altered physical timing.

So I'm guessing that the shock on the timing belt spun the timing belt sprocket. The reason your car won't start is that physical timing is off.

Sprocket part is 038105263E. Search for images and look at the back side to see what I mean.

https://www.hansautoparts.com/westportparts/VolksDiesel/images/038105263E.jpg

Thanks, is there a way of checking with VCDS if the timing is out without the engine running? Or is it a case of re-timing?

 

[BobnOH]

No.
Check #1 cam lobes up (or lock inserted, better), crank at TDC and IP pin hole close.

 

[shoebear]

No.
Check #1 cam lobes up (or lock inserted, better), crank at TDC and IP pin hole close.

This article shows how to do all of that, with photos.

VW Jetta TDI timing belt replacement for ALH engine, 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003, also for Golf TDI and New Beetle TDI

VW Jetta TDI timing belt replacement cost and DIY - ALH engine removal procedure

www.myturbodiesel.com

Here's the the accessory belt pulley mounted with 4 bolts to the timing belt sprocket, and the 19mm torque-to-yield crank bolt in the middle. Those 4 bolts are allen (hex) key cap heads, which are a booger to get off because the allen head strips out. So if you do remove them, be sure to use a top quality allen socket that fits snugly in the bolt head.

 

[jokila]

Thanks, is there a way of checking with VCDS if the timing is out without the engine running? Or is it a case of re-timing?

No.

 

[gforce1108]

If it ran before - the timing isn't a problem unless it has jumped. You need to physically inspect it

 

[shoebear]

One more tip: Get a helper. One of you spin the crankshaft clockwise using the 19mm crank bolt. The other should watch the timing belt go by and inspect for missing/damaged teeth. Mark the belt so you know when you've gone all the way around. If this doesn't reveal anything, you can use this basic procedure to set the crank at top dead center in preparation for BobInOH's checks above.

 

[delvey]

This article shows how to do all of that, with photos.

VW Jetta TDI timing belt replacement for ALH engine, 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003, also for Golf TDI and New Beetle TDI

VW Jetta TDI timing belt replacement cost and DIY - ALH engine removal procedure

www.myturbodiesel.com

Here's the the accessory belt pulley mounted with 4 bolts to the timing belt sprocket, and the 19mm torque-to-yield crank bolt in the middle. Those 4 bolts are allen (hex) key cap heads, which are a booger to get off because the allen head strips out. So if you do remove them, be sure to use a top quality allen socket that fits snugly in the bolt head.

Thanks, I think I can see the fly wheel (as it is an auto) so will see if the mark is visible