2002 Golf - I'm back in a TDI!

[spifflifkin]

I used to have a 2003 Jetta sedan TDI I bought a new. It had a ton of problems. Dealer sucked (Carter in Ballard, WA). I loved the car, but it was unreliable. Kept it for 5 years then traded it in on a 2008 Toyota Tacoma. Drive that for 8 years then got a Chevy Duramax. I don't tow as much as I used to so a commuter car makes more sense. I bought this 2002 Golf off Craigslist for $1500. Let the fun begin!

It's in decent shape for its age. It's got some dents, scratches and other wear that you'd expect. The only significant problem is the engine is seized. There's a hole in the side of the block by the oil filter housing. Today I'm going to drain the fluids to prepare to pull the engine. I'll post more pics later.

 

[KrashDH]

I was just gonna ask how you scored a TDI for that price in WA, but makes sense now. Good luck with the swap!
From another WA resident with an 02 Golf

 

[spifflifkin]

Here's the hole in the block. Looks like a connecting rod broke.



What's left of the oil filter housing.

 

[STDOUBT]

2003 Jetta sedan TDI I bought a new. It had a ton of problems. Dealer sucked

ProTip: The Dealership is why it had a ton of problems. Bank on it.

 

[pkhoury]

Yikes to the engine viewing window. Are TDIs normally expensive in the PNW? My last two Golfs cost me $1500 each, also silver. One wasn't running, the other needed a new transmission, but still required significant work.

I suppose to your benefit, should you want upgraded injectors, which I'd do anyways, since nozzles don't last forever, you at least have cores you can send in now, plus that injection pump, which is worth about $200-ish used.

Looking forward to hearing about your progress getting it back up and running. I'm very partial to 2002 Silver Golfs, as my signature should show.

 

[KrashDH]

Yikes to the engine viewing window. Are TDIs normally expensive in the PNW? My last two Golfs cost me $1500 each, also silver. One wasn't running, the other needed a new transmission, but still required significant work.

I suppose to your benefit, should you want upgraded injectors, which I'd do anyways, since nozzles don't last forever, you at least have cores you can send in now, plus that injection pump, which is worth about $200-ish used.

Looking forward to hearing about your progress getting it back up and running. I'm very partial to 2002 Silver Golfs, as my signature should show.

Everything out here is way more expensive than it needs to be, and more expensive than most of the country

 

[wonneber]

I keep saying the only cheap anymore is pay checks.

 

[spifflifkin]

ProTip: The Dealership is why it had a ton of problems. Bank on it.

You got that right! I stopped taking my Chevy and the wife's BMW to the dealers years ago.

 

[spifflifkin]

Looking forward to hearing about your progress getting it back up and running. I'm very partial to 2002 Silver Golfs, as my signature should show.

I'll post the progress! That's a great point about the injectors. I've been reading this forum to get suggestions on what to change. I'll definitely put on a new timing belt and associated components. I'll look in to injectors too. Probably hoses and vacuum tubes, belt, fuel, air and cabin air filters.

 

[spifflifkin]

Everything out here is way more expensive than it needs to be, and more expensive than most of the country

Yes it is! Among all the other ridiculous costs, property taxes went up 18% this year!
Last June I towed the University of WA's FSAE race car to Michigan International Raceway for the annual competition. It was nice to get mid-$3/gal diesel once we got further east. I saw diesel in Renton for $6.00/gal today!
I'm looking forward to the TDI's fuel mileage!

 

[spifflifkin]

I keep saying the only cheap anymore is pay checks.

Mine too my friend!

 

[P2B]

Probably hoses and vacuum tubes, belt, fuel, air and cabin air filters.

Make sure to buy vintage vacuum tubes, modern ones just don't last

 

[J_dude]

Make sure to buy vintage vacuum tubes, modern ones just don't last

And the vintage ones sound better too!

 

[pkhoury]

I'll post the progress! That's a great point about the injectors. I've been reading this forum to get suggestions on what to change. I'll definitely put on a new timing belt and associated components. I'll look in to injectors too. Probably hoses and vacuum tubes, belt, fuel, air and cabin air filters.

It'll be A LOT easier doing the timing belt, because the engine will already be out of the car when you do it. I suppose you could hand tighten flywheel bolts or use the old flywheel/bolts, just so you have that timing mark for peace of mind if you wanted.

But yeah, given how many miles are on old injectors, I don't see any point reusing them as-is, even if they "work." I've sold some ALH injectors here and there on ebay but always put in the description that they should be cores or rebuilt, for this reason. You don't know if they're properly atomizing and nozzles don't last forever.

Hoses seem to be hit or miss, but I've replaced mine. Definitely replace the connections that go to your heater core. Ask me how I know - I had it fail on two Golfs.

Vacuum lines are a good idea, especially if you're deleting EGR. I don't know how emissions are in WA, but I think they follow CARB, right? If so, clean out your intake manifold while you're at it. Let's see, what is... filters are just a given. Definitely a rear main seal when the donor engine is out. I need to do one this week on my own Golf, now that the transmission, clutch and flywheel are off.

Oh, I've seen these strip threads a lot - be careful putting on your accessory belt tensioner. I don't remember the torque spec, but it's something stupid low like 11 or 17 or something (whatever's in the Bentley).

 

[pkhoury]

Yes it is! Among all the other ridiculous costs, property taxes went up 18% this year!
Last June I towed the University of WA's FSAE race car to Michigan International Raceway for the annual competition. It was nice to get mid-$3/gal diesel once we got further east. I saw diesel in Renton for $6.00/gal today!
I'm looking forward to the TDI's fuel mileage!

Holy $hit. I thought it was bad here, around $4.19 locally. I hear it's not going down, now that some OPEC countries are cutting output.

 

[KrashDH]

Make sure to buy vintage vacuum tubes, modern ones just don't last

Skip all that and get silicone vac lines and never have to worry about them again. The OEM ones with the sleeves hide the splits and cracks that happen around the nipples of the valves and can cause headaches for people tying to track down leaks

Holy $hit. I thought it was bad here, around $4.19 locally. I hear it's not going down, now that some OPEC countries are cutting output.

I wish diesel was that price, it's about $5.40 where I am south of Tacoma. It's unreal out here, but we also flip flop with California on the highest gas tax in the nation...

 

[spifflifkin]

But yeah, given how many miles are on old injectors, I don't see any point reusing them as-is, even if they "work." I've sold some ALH injectors here and there on ebay but always put in the description that they should be cores or rebuilt, for this reason. You don't know if they're properly atomizing and nozzles don't last forever.

Thanks for the tips! Where would you get injectors from? There are a lot out there! Some people recommend changing to .205mm for a little more power. I'm not concerned with more power, I just want the best mileage. Do you think it's worth it?

 

[spifflifkin]

Skip all that and get silicone vac lines and never have to worry about them again. The OEM ones with the sleeves hide the splits and cracks that happen around the nipples of the valves and can cause headaches for people tying to track down leaks

Will do! Thanks for the tip!

 

[pkhoury]

Thanks for the tips! Where would you get injectors from? There are a lot out there! Some people recommend changing to .205mm for a little more power. I'm not concerned with more power, I just want the best mileage. Do you think it's worth it?

@burpod actually told me today in a phone convo about tdipower.pl. Apparently, you can get prebuilt injectors ready to go with nozzles installed. I emailed them to see if they have the 2003 plug style, as I converted all my cars to use the 2003 plug for injector #3. Sure beats sending my injector cores in and having nozzles fitted. I've been thinking of upgrading on DSOL from .240 to .260.

 

[Zak99b5]

@burpod actually told me today in a phone convo about tdipower.pl. Apparently, you can get prebuilt injectors ready to go with nozzles installed. I emailed them to see if they have the 2003 plug style, as I converted all my cars to use the 2003 plug for injector #3. Sure beats sending my injector cores in and having nozzles fitted. I've been thinking of upgrading on DSOL from .240 to .260.

I was about to order injectors from them, and I also have 2003 with the different plug. I didn't feel confident in ordering, but the guy who runs the site is on here (not sure of his username). I got busy with back to school, so I haven't had a chance yet, but I was going to PM him here and see if he had better info.

 

[csstevej]

Pkhoury …you have web address for them , tried putting the name in but kept getting error messages.

 

[P2B]

Pkhoury …you have web address for them , tried putting the name in but kept getting error messages.

That's because the domain @pkhoury posted doesn't exist.

Maybe he means https://en.powertdi.pl/

 

[csstevej]

Thank you.

 

[spifflifkin]

Maybe he means https://en.powertdi.pl/

Awesome. Thanks!

 

[burpod]

you can get 55+ mpg with .260s without issue. it doesn't hurt anything to shorten injection times (when all is right in the tune etc)

 

[spifflifkin]

I found an engine! It's from a 2000 Beetle. Next Friday the junk yard will test the compression and let me know the miles. I'll decide if I want it then.

Tonight I pulled the intake and exhaust manifolds off. I found another hole in the block!

Here's the intake manifold and the chunk of the block.


I pulled off the turbo and exhaust manifold too.


Between the turbo bracket and the exhaust flange you can see the hole in the back of the block.


Do you guys think I should clean this stuff up and swap it on the engine I'm getting? Seems like that might be a good idea.

 

[burpod]

it would be a better idea to upgrade to something bigger than what grandma would drive if you're putting all this effort into this a vnt15 isn't bad, but it's just very small and restrictive. and the stock alh manifold cold have been designed by 5th graders 30 yrs ago

 

[pkhoury]

Pkhoury …you have web address for them , tried putting the name in but kept getting error messages.

My bad. I was close, anyways.

 

[pkhoury]

it would be a better idea to upgrade to something bigger than what grandma would drive if you're putting all this effort into this a vnt15 isn't bad, but it's just very small and restrictive. and the stock alh manifold cold have been designed by 5th graders 30 yrs ago

LMAO. Especially with the way that air is somewhat restricted going into cylinder 1. It's honestly a stupid design. Who knows - maybe it was designed by German 5th graders 30 years ago, or someone with an associates degree in mechanical engineering.

you can get 55+ mpg with .260s without issue. it doesn't hurt anything to shorten injection times (when all is right in the tune etc)

I'm still trying to tweak the ColorMFA consumption feature on DSOL, but I do seem to get about the same or marginally better FE on DSEL, which has @burpod 's tune and .260's. I'm still on the fence about getting some for DSOL, since I have yet to hear back from powertdi.pl. One thing's for sure - he is NOT good at replying to emails (it's been 4 days now).

 

[pkhoury]

I found an engine! It's from a 2000 Beetle. Next Friday the junk yard will test the compression and let me know the miles. I'll decide if I want it then.

Tonight I pulled the intake and exhaust manifolds off. I found another hole in the block!

Here's the intake manifold and the chunk of the block.


I pulled off the turbo and exhaust manifold too.


Between the turbo bracket and the exhaust flange you can see the hole in the back of the block.


Do you guys think I should clean this stuff up and swap it on the engine I'm getting? Seems like that might be a good idea.

The turbo? My first intuition would be f**k no. If that car has that much catastrophic damage, it makes me wonder if the turbo could've been starved for oil at some point while running. And like Guthrie said, it's a VNT15. I'd start off fresh with something bigger. VNT17 is honestly a good bet all around. Unless you're looking for big power, it's still a pretty decent turbo, and I'm happy with them on my cars.

I just googled emissions laws on WA, and it looks like you don't need a BS emissions test. Me personally I'd use darkside's custom intake manifold (zero restrictions), delete EGR, and you'd technically want a SMIC upgrade at that point, since you'd probably want to do a VNT17 and aluminum/silicon piping to the intake manifold. If you go that route, TIGHTEN those T-bolts until they won't tighten anymore (but don't strip them out). One trick (that I admittedly only did once) - cheap hair spray on the inside of the silicon. It allows you to slip it on the intake or aluminum tubing better, and then it'll hold it in place for you (but you still need clamps - blowing a pipe from too much boost SUCKS - ask me how I know).

As for EGR, if you do delete it, you don't need block off plates or a racepipe if you go the darkside (or comparable direct intake manifold) route. I don't remember the size, but it's either 3/4" or 1" pex nipple for your EGR cooler to join the lines together, and a smaller nipple for the hose that goes from the top of the EGR cooler to your return line on your coolant expansion chamber. While you're in there, and I'm pretty sure I said it before, replace your heater core connectors. Don't cheap out and get Uro or Dorman Chinesium parts.