98 TDI Build

[PradoTDI]

Ok, so I am looking at this gauge here: https://www.partsplaceinc.com/vw-di...974.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=FreePLA

I'd rather not buy a whole kit with 20 adapters I'll never use. So is the correct adapter to fit the glow plug threads?

VW TDI Compression Tester Adapter - Free Tech Help

The VW TDI Compression Tester Adapter you need plus free tech help from true VW experts. Same day shipping. Order on-line or call today!

www.partsplaceinc.com

Only reason I ask is that they say stuff about injectors but the adapter looks like a glow plug... sooo

Pretty sure that's the right compression adapter. The TDI's get compression tested in the glow plug holes, not injector ports. Not sure why they would say anything about removing injectors to do a compression test...

 

[Lug_Nut]

I must have a brain tumor.

Or a Honda, some of those have their transverse engine on the left, transmission to the right, and those do have cranks that run CCW if viewed from the pulley end.

 

[Lug_Nut]

This was a joke.... bit since you got serious... it actually would not decrease power.
Motor trend did this test and no matter how much you pinch a pipe or how many times you do it , it wont rob any HP..... even if it's close to being pinched shut

So I didn't believe it and I did Google it, and found this Engine Masters show (more like Road Kill, but...)

There is a comment around 11:40 into the show that a larger diameter has advantages to smaller diameter headers,
The lack of cross section AREA comparison in the video ignores that the bashing in one axis also INREASES the width in the other by ovalizing the tube. The increase in an axis won't fully compensate for a reduction in another. A 2 inch diameter pipe will flow more, meaning with less restriction, than a 1x3 oval but a 1x3 oval isn't that much less.
The dents shown in the show don't approach "being pinched shut".

The TDI pipe does not show any increase in an axial dimension to even partially offset the reduction in the opposing axis, so I'm staying with my opinion on the TDI pipe in this thread.

 

[turbodieseldyke]

Or a Honda, some of those have their transverse engine on the left, transmission to the right, and those do have cranks that run CCW if viewed from the pulley end.

Guilty as charged. First TB jobs i did were on my Hondas. I've changed way more belts on my TDIs, but for some reason I've always thought they ran CCW. Every time I've turned the engine 2 revs after installing a new belt, I always turned it CCW, thinking that was "forwards". When I saw my BRM running CW last month, i wondered why they decided to change direction.

Even now, thinking about the location of the tensioner, and how you push the IP towards the engine to advance the timing -- without seeing it run, those facts mean it runs CW. I can't explain the mixup.

I'm probably lucky I was hand-turning them CCW. Twice -- years apart -- I've left the 19mm ratchet on the crank pulley after the 2-rev hand check, and then hit the starter to check timing. Both times, the ratchet handle hit the control arm and cracked the pulley bolt loose. If I was turning CW, I might have broken either the ratchet or the pulley bolt. Instead, all I lost was a stretched bolt that I had to replace.

 

[Mongler98]

So I didn't believe it and I did Google it, and found this Engine Masters show (more like Road Kill, but...)

There is a comment around 11:40 into the show that a larger diameter has advantages to smaller diameter headers,
The lack of cross section AREA comparison in the video ignores that the bashing in one axis also INREASES the width in the other by ovalizing the tube. The increase in an axis won't fully compensate for a reduction in another. A 2 inch diameter pipe will flow more, meaning with less restriction, than a 1x3 oval but a 1x3 oval isn't that much less.
The dents shown in the show don't approach "being pinched shut".

The TDI pipe does not show any increase in an axial dimension to even partially offset the reduction in the opposing axis, so I'm staying with my opinion on the TDI pipe in this thread.

commetns aside.. that is nearly pinched shut but yest still can flow.. hig pressure hir high velocity air flows like a glas and not a liquid... even though gas is a liquid in modeling terms and how it behaves hence why people get confused becuase air is COMPRESSABLE

 

[Abacus]

Exhaust is about FLOW. All too often I see people putting big exhausts on their cars but this actually reduces efficiencies since they don’t flow as well. I’d rather have one that moves more air more efficiently than a large one that does not. The turbocharger helps push things along, but if it’s building pressure in the exhaust, it’s working against itself.

Part of the flow equation is this thing called a c-factor, which is the resistance to flow. Reducing this means a more efficient exhaust. Bends, surface qualities, irregularities, and fixtures all interrupt flow since the air (fluid) must change direction. Something like a 180° bend will have a higher c-factor than a 90° bend, but in the grand scheme of things it may not account for a huge loss. Still not something I would do because I think it looks stupid.

 

[vwishndaetr]

Figured I'd come around and do a quick update since I did get a tester, and I *did* do a compression test... kind of.

Had I come back to the thread sooner maybe I would've gotten that one since I'll pretty much end up in the same place... anyways.

I ended up getting this tester: Amazon Link

It's actually built pretty well and comes with a plethora of fittings. It has quite a few adapters tapped for M10x1.0 which is what the glow plugs are tapped for on the head, and it was how I was going to go about doing my compression test. With that being said, out of the box I was only able to check compression on cylinder 1 - the quick connect fittings would not clear the cylinder head (the provided adapters were an inch or two too short). I ended up buying another adapter separately which will do the trick.

I'll post pics and videos with details later tonight. I don't have access to them right now.

 

[vwishndaetr]

To circle around and wrap up my last post this is the compression tester from the link in the previous post:

It comes pretty complete. I think it's probably better suited for larger diesels that have a bit more clearance around the head - it is advertised for trucks and what not too.

But they did have an adapter that was almost identical to the glow plugs in terms of threading/clearance etc.

Actually has a few others with the M10x1.0 threading too, just different configs.

The gage is really nice too. All the fittings and the gage are solid and the gage itself feels good as well. It has a nice casing over it - almost rubberized - so it can take a beating without damaging the gage itself.

With all that being said, when it finally came down to doing the compression test on the TDI, I was only able to get the quick connect fitting to clear the head on cylinder 1. One the other heads it was about a 1/4" short or so from snapping onto the adapter.

So long story short, I ended up just buying another quick connect fitting, a 6" brass pipe, and a M10x1.0 die so I can re-thread one end of the pipe to fit into the head.

Brass Pipe - I managed to find a pipe rated to 1000psi to match the compression tester.
Quick connect fitting - The fitting unfortunately is only rated to 300psi, so it should do. I searched all day long and could not find one rated to 1000psi. But I'm not too worried about it.

 

[vwishndaetr]

When I was ready to do the compression test, I pretty much had the engine on the stand and was trying to figure out how to crank it over. I tried using an impact, a high powered drill, plus some other ideas. Nothing worked and wasn't even close to working. Each of them were a bust pretty much right out the gate, didn't take more than a second of each to realize that nothing was gonna work.

So I circled back around and installed the trans and starter back to the block.

I was ready to go here.

Before the compression test I did clear more things off the block to thoroughly inspect everything.

Naked.

Nice and thickkk.

All the intake ports were gunked up equally except for cylinder 1 which was a bit "cleaner" than the others.

Put it back on the crane so I can mount the trans.

After testing the first cylinder before I ran into the clearance issues, I did get 300psi on the first test. Once the rest of my parts come in (should be here tomorrow) I can finish the compression test and see how that compares to cylinders 2-4.

I didn't take pics of the complete "setup" but I did shoot a short video of the rig. Sorry in advance for the vertical oriented video (which I hate), but I initially was just intending on posting it to Instagram which works better when in portrait mode.

FYI - plug the oil feed line when doing this , I had the turbo feed line removed when I first cranked it and I forgot to cap the feed on the oil filter housing so it pissed all over the place... I didn't even see it until after I stopped the video... made a mess... ehhh.

 

[vwishndaetr]

TL;DR

Cyl 1: 420 psi
Cyl 2: 390 psi
Cyl 3: 390 psi
Cyl 4: 380 psi

FINALLY.... came around to doing the compression test and getting decent numbers across the board.

First, I need to recant my last post and say that the compression tester I bought off amazon is ****. At least out of the box. The gage is solid as I mentioned, but I don't think quick connect fittings belong on compression testers - especially diesel ones that are rated to 1000psi.

Out of the box the compression tester got me 300 psi on cylinder 1. I couldn't check the others due to clearance. So I ended up getting a 1/8 npt pipe with a new quick connect fitting for the 1/8 npt end to extend it beyond the head and the fuel lines. The OD of the pipe was only .5mm over what was needed to rethread to m10x1.0 so I only needed to remove a little bit of material.

Sitting better when installed.

With this "new" setup I went through and rechecked cylinder 1 and looked at the others, I got:

Cyl 1: 260 psi
Cyl 2: 240 psi
Cyl 3: 250 psi
Cyl 4: 240 psi

Considering the drop on cyl 1 from my first test, I knew something was up, and the only thing that made sense was that the new quick connect fitting was not holding pressure. Good thing is the numbers are close between cylinders so once I get a solid reading everything else should be good.

I ended up taking apart the tester I bought, rethreaded both ends of the brass pipe to m10x1.0 (fittings on compression tester were all metric - I needed m10x1.0 for the head, and now m10x1.0 for the adapter on the tester), and pretty much made a "hard wired" connection from the gage to the head.

And the numbers are wayyy better.

Cyl 1: 420 psi
Cyl 2: 390 psi
Cyl 3: 390 psi
Cyl 4: 380 psi

 

[vwishndaetr]

One note, the compression test was done dry. I did not bother putting a little bit of oil down into the head to seal the rings.

Now that I can stop talking about the compression tester ... I like the numbers, and will carry on with my build without pulling the head off the block.

Next steps for me will be to degrease the block and check out what seals need to be replaced. From there I'll be able to start ordering parts to put this pig back together.

My plan is to replace all the vacuum lines with new hoses. Can anyone recommend a good quality hose they've used in the past? Also, I would like to avoid the typical aftermarket screw clamps that are used, and would rather use OEM style crimp type hose clamp - does anyone have a recommendation for those? Otherwise I'll start digging and find something on my own.

 

[Abacus]

There are threads on here about which silicone hoses to use, how much is needed, and where to buy them.

 

[Mongler98]

those are nice numbers for a cold engine!

 

[vwishndaetr]

those are nice numbers for a cold engine!

Ya I was excited to see it. I don't know the history and what else was done, but over 250k on this one as well.

 

[Rig]

This is all good info. Glad I bought the tester I did. Still haven't got around to trying it out though.

Congrats on a well functioning engine!

 

[vwishndaetr]

Got around to cleaning the block up last night. I got so sick of all the grease - every time I touched the thing whether it was to move it or remove another part my hands/arms/gloves got covered in grease... The axle grease on the back of the block from a torn boot didn't help the case either.

Pre:

Mid:

After: And I must say, I am a bit blown away at how well the block cleaned up. 24years old with 250k+ miles was well preserved by all that oil.

There are a few more spots I can and will get into - when I get to the front of the block I'll spend a little more time in the nooks and crannies - but for now at least I can handle it without looking like I work on an oil rig.

 

[Rig]

Wow, nice work!

 

[vwishndaetr]

I am looking for a plug-and-play aluminum valve cover for the AHU. Are there any other TDI engines that have a compatible valve cover that isn't steel?

 

[garciapiano]

I am looking for a plug-and-play aluminum valve cover for the AHU. Are there any other TDI engines that have a compatible valve cover that isn't steel?

As far as I’m aware, that does not exist.

What is the need for an aluminum valve cover?

 

[vwishndaetr]

As far as I’m aware, that does not exist.

What is the need for an aluminum valve cover?

To be frank, no need at all. Was going for a specific look. So I'll carry on considering they're all steel.

 

[garciapiano]

If it’s just an aesthetic thing you can get it powdercoated.

 

[ToddA1]

Powdercoating valve covers can be hit or miss. I just had 2 come back from powder and they’re not what I call great. Even with out gassing, the contamination kept sweating out. Doing some research, they needed to be hot tanked, for the best finish.

The shop stripped and coated them 3 times. They offered to strip and coat again, but I had 2 cars off the road for almost 3 weeks, because of the valve covers…

One was steel and the other was AL.

-Todd

 

[vwishndaetr]

I was going for a polished finish - Aluminum lends itself to doing that well.

But it'd no big deal. Like I said, I'll keep the OE black - will just get some nice paint to give it a fresh coat.

 

[volksguy]

Moroso made some years ago for like 1.6 diesel or 1.7 gas stile.
With Bolts around it.
And Sold it as a Clock full Valve Cover.
Yes i Have one clock one Hanging on the wall.

 

[ToddA1]

Using the Moroso as an example, is comparing apples to oranges. FWIW, the Moroso fit all A1/A2 engines, other than 16v.

-Todd

 

[volksguy]

Untell some one Decides with a CNC Machine to make There own.
And Why
Because They Can

 

[ninedee_golf_tdi]

I didn't read every post, I suspect by now you figured that went into a ditch and the bent tie rod and control arm was from the j hook on the wrecker pulling it out.

 

[vwishndaetr]

I didn't read every post, I suspect by now you figured that went into a ditch and the bent tie rod and control arm was from the j hook on the wrecker pulling it out.

Likely. Probably caught some air over the curb before landing in the ditch.

 

[vwishndaetr]

Nvm...

 

[vwishndaetr]

2) I broke this when I was removing one of the clamps to remove the hose from it... Barely put any pressure on it and it gave out. Looks like it just collects vapors from the PCV? If my memory serves me right brake booster and other vac lines came to a junction before the spot where it broke.

Can someone tell me what I'm looking at here?

Question from earlier... I'm buying some parts for reassembly and I'm trying to address this.